Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[RevoltTrain]

Working on getting the lift on. Fought the front driver corner for ~5.5 hours yesterday on disassembly alone. Needed a lil motivation to start the day today. Still on the jackstands but at about the final height I believe, test fit the wheels today, couldn't be happier with the look. Front inner fender may need the slightest of slight trims at the very bottom but that should hopefully be it. This'll be worth it in the end

PXL_20231120_192140250.RAW-01.COVER.jpg

[Bitter]

3 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

Nothing removing a couple of vertebrae in your spine wont fix!

 

On 11/19/2023 at 10:11 AM, RevoltTrain said:

My issue is that I'm all torso height 

 

Like, 30" inseam pants

 

On 11/19/2023 at 1:20 PM, AlwaysFSX said:

Like how we can fix Panda. We can fix you.

Nah, take the shins.

[bcredeur97]

I changed the brakes on my touareg the other day. Holy crap 4 piston fixed brembos are so easy 

 

2 pins, a clip, a bit of work getting the pistons to retract using the old pads, which basically just fall out when your done, then typical 2 bolts for the caliper, rotors came right off. All done in reverse with new hardware

 

Every car should have those if for nothing else, just because it makes servicing so easy 

 

I didn’t take pictures, sorry. Was in a hurry. Can’t have the daily driver down for more than a couple hours I guess, but on the bright side it’s still going. Getting close to 150k miles

[vetali]

4 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

I changed the brakes on my touareg the other day. Holy crap 4 piston fixed brembos are so easy 

 

2 pins, a clip, a bit of work getting the pistons to retract using the old pads, which basically just fall out when your done, then typical 2 bolts for the caliper, rotors came right off. All done in reverse with new hardware

 

Every car should have those if for nothing else, just because it makes servicing so easy 

 

I didn’t take pictures, sorry. Was in a hurry. Can’t have the daily driver down for more than a couple hours I guess, but on the bright side it’s still going. Getting close to 150k miles

Until its rusty. Then you spend 10 minutes pounding out each pin, 25 minutes working the pad back and forth before its out, use 2 pry bars to force the pistons back, file the caliper down so the new pads fit, hone out the pin holes in the caliper, figure out the pads still bind up, file the caliper more, install pads and pins. Then you test drive and the caliper is sticking.

 

4 piston calipers can DIAF. Absolute garbage.

[Bitter]

8 hours ago, vetali said:

Until its rusty. Then you spend 10 minutes pounding out each pin, 25 minutes working the pad back and forth before its out, use 2 pry bars to force the pistons back, file the caliper down so the new pads fit, hone out the pin holes in the caliper, figure out the pads still bind up, file the caliper more, install pads and pins. Then you test drive and the caliper is sticking.

 

4 piston calipers can DIAF. Absolute garbage.

Then you get 3 shitty remans in a row that weep fluid between the halves

 

I got a honda question for you. 07 Accord, intermittent dash warning lights for vsa, had a wheel speed difference code for left side, found nothing, cleared, test drove, engine and vsa warning lights came on a few times but set no codes. Checked history codes through the rest of the car and every module except engine, abs, and I think airbag set B1060, 1061, and 1177. I did some light reading and I'm wondering if this car has a faulty gauge cluster or a can bus problem. Customer says the lights started coming on after they hit a pothole so big they felt their soul leave their body. Car has no physical damage. I spun all 4 wheels with a drill at speeds between 3mph (min for ABS to read) and 14 (fast as my drill goes) and wheel speeds are all smooth with no drop outs in scan data. Watched wheel speeds while driving at low speeds and all 4 match up. All tires are the same size and similar enough wear. You run into these symptoms/codes before? I don't think it's an ABS problem at all but boss is CONVINCED it is. I think it had an ABS problem in the past at some point, he said he had a flat earlier this year and drove with the spare on so I think the mismatch code is history from that. I think his current warning lights are 1060/1061 and 1177 adjacent and a cluster or canbus or maybe relay control module issue?

[bcredeur97]

8 hours ago, vetali said:

Until its rusty. Then you spend 10 minutes pounding out each pin, 25 minutes working the pad back and forth before its out, use 2 pry bars to force the pistons back, file the caliper down so the new pads fit, hone out the pin holes in the caliper, figure out the pads still bind up, file the caliper more, install pads and pins. Then you test drive and the caliper is sticking.

 

4 piston calipers can DIAF. Absolute garbage.

What does "rusty" mean? LOL

[vetali]

3 hours ago, Bitter said:

Then you get 3 shitty remans in a row that weep fluid between the halves

 

I got a honda question for you. 07 Accord, intermittent dash warning lights for vsa, had a wheel speed difference code for left side, found nothing, cleared, test drove, engine and vsa warning lights came on a few times but set no codes. Checked history codes through the rest of the car and every module except engine, abs, and I think airbag set B1060, 1061, and 1177. I did some light reading and I'm wondering if this car has a faulty gauge cluster or a can bus problem. Customer says the lights started coming on after they hit a pothole so big they felt their soul leave their body. Car has no physical damage. I spun all 4 wheels with a drill at speeds between 3mph (min for ABS to read) and 14 (fast as my drill goes) and wheel speeds are all smooth with no drop outs in scan data. Watched wheel speeds while driving at low speeds and all 4 match up. All tires are the same size and similar enough wear. You run into these symptoms/codes before? I don't think it's an ABS problem at all but boss is CONVINCED it is. I think it had an ABS problem in the past at some point, he said he had a flat earlier this year and drove with the spare on so I think the mismatch code is history from that. I think his current warning lights are 1060/1061 and 1177 adjacent and a cluster or canbus or maybe relay control module issue?

Do those codes come back when cleared? Those sound like typical low voltage faults when a battery gets low. First thing I check with those ABS codes is wheels and tires. If they got a bent wheel from hitting the pothole or damaged tire it could throw off ABS. Not a big deal on older cars, but mixed tires on newer rigs will also throw codes. Hondas also common for rusted magnetic strips on the wheel bearing.

 

Was it a front or rear code in the ABS? Rear sensors go through the MICU. Those years do not use B-CAN on the ABS. The warning indicators are directly controlled by the VSA modulator.

[Bitter]

34 minutes ago, vetali said:

Do those codes come back when cleared? Those sound like typical low voltage faults when a battery gets low. First thing I check with those ABS codes is wheels and tires. If they got a bent wheel from hitting the pothole or damaged tire it could throw off ABS. Not a big deal on older cars, but mixed tires on newer rigs will also throw codes. Hondas also common for rusted magnetic strips on the wheel bearing.

 

Was it a front or rear code in the ABS? Rear sensors go through the MICU. Those years do not use B-CAN on the ABS. The warning indicators are directly controlled by the VSA modulator.

They do not come back but the intermittent warning lights for engine and vsa do come on with no codes set but only when driving but not when hitting bumps. I had CELA and VSA on twice just driving around and both times no engine or ABS codes were set. ABS codes when it came in were 71-27, 65-21, 35-23,61-01. I chalked some of those up to a low battery at some point and he confirmed he did have to jump it a few months ago but it's been fine since he thinks he left his lights on.

It's haunted lol. It actually needs a bunch of other shit to keep it driving and I think once he sees the list he might reevaluate wanting to hang onto it long term, gonna be like $5k in stuff but we can break it up into manageable repairs. It runs good drives good tho so probably worth keeping even if it's a lot to get it caught up. That's what happens when we ONLY see you once every 3 or 4 years, quick lube ain't gonna say shit about your leaking V-TEC gasket lol.

[TVwazhere]

22 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

What does "rusty" mean? LOL

The northeast hates you

[Vonrottes]

On 11/21/2023 at 12:46 AM, vetali said:

Until its rusty. Then you spend 10 minutes pounding out each pin, 25 minutes working the pad back and forth before its out, use 2 pry bars to force the pistons back, file the caliper down so the new pads fit, hone out the pin holes in the caliper, figure out the pads still bind up, file the caliper more, install pads and pins. Then you test drive and the caliper is sticking.

 

4 piston calipers can DIAF. Absolute garbage.

Brembo and rust
If your pads are rusting THAT much between normal service intervals you need to buy better pads, or do a better job of washing your car in the winter.
If you are still using semi-metallic pads....stop.

I haven't dailied the bremos on my truck in the salt yet, but they were used calipers that looked like they hadn't been cleaned since 2010 and only had the cheapest pads available installed. some Iron remover and purple power took care of all the baked on semi-metallic brake dust, lubed the pads and everything went together fine with no binding or sticking.

I don't even run that good of pads, Power stop Z17 or Z23 on all my cars and have never had a rust issue in central ohio.

[vetali]

2 minutes ago, Vonrottes said:

Brembo and rust
If your pads are rusting THAT much between normal service intervals you need to buy better pads, or do a better job of washing your car in the winter.
If you are still using semi-metallic pads....stop.

I haven't dailied the bremos on my truck in the salt yet, but they were used calipers that looked like they hadn't been cleaned since 2010 and only had the cheapest pads available installed. some Iron remover and purple power took care of all the baked on semi-metallic brake dust, lubed the pads and everything went together fine with no binding or sticking.

I don't even run that good of pads, Power stop Z17 or Z23 on all my cars and have never had a rust issue in central ohio.

... or just stock tacoma/tundra brakes...

[Bitter]

More than Brembo are 4 pot. Toyota has been using iron 4 pot fixed calipers for like 30yrs on their trucks and SUV's and let me tell you, them get ruuuuusty. Hell my 00 Celica lost a rear caliper because the piston rusted through a hole in the middle and that's an otherwise clean rust free car.

[vetali]

On 11/22/2023 at 12:17 PM, Bitter said:

More than Brembo are 4 pot. Toyota has been using iron 4 pot fixed calipers for like 30yrs on their trucks and SUV's and let me tell you, them get ruuuuusty. Hell my 00 Celica lost a rear caliper because the piston rusted through a hole in the middle and that's an otherwise clean rust free car.

They are miserable in a non salt belt area. And you don't want to replace them for the issue you mentioned.

[Bitter]

5 hours ago, vetali said:

They are miserable in a non salt belt area. And you don't want to replace them for the issue you mentioned.

No less than 4 in a row on a 4Runner, all with the same leak between the halves. I didn't take them apart because not my problem but I'm sure I know why. They split em, sand blast em, slap em together with new seals on destroyed surfaces, a quick pressure test maybe maybe not,and into the box and out the door.

[vetali]

15 minutes ago, Bitter said:

No less than 4 in a row on a 4Runner, all with the same leak between the halves. I didn't take them apart because not my problem but I'm sure I know why. They split em, sand blast em, slap em together with new seals on destroyed surfaces, a quick pressure test maybe maybe not,and into the box and out the door.

Its worse than that, from what I see on reddit they pinch the seals from misalignment. So a simple pressure test would show that it would leak.

[Bitter]

1 hour ago, vetali said:

Its worse than that, from what I see on reddit they pinch the seals from misalignment. So a simple pressure test would show that it would leak.

We're assuming any testing takes place, and it does...when we install them!

[Bitter]

 

Car adjacent, fixed my noisy garage door. New rollers and repaired a few binding hinges. Also pushed the top tighter so it stays sealed and warm better.

[Beerzerker]

Quick question:
I recently replaced the belt on my pickup because the old one was "Old" and was showing signs it needed replacing. Got a new one and it's squeaking like mad at times, belt dressing made no difference in what it's doing at all but do know the old belt didn't squeak in the least. It also has more tension on it because it's new, not stretched out from use like the old one but does the squeaking as described.

One thing I did not long after was to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around the alternator pulley and I used a small sliver of gorilla tape to wrap it around the pulley with the abrasive side outward towards the belt and let it run for a few minutes to scuff the new belt, in case it was slick like a new rear tire for a bike would be. 
They do tell you don't ride aggresively for a few days of riding or the bike may come out from under you in a curve because the rubber needs time to scuff so it's has grip. 

I did discover with this the squeaking stopped completely but after removing the sandpaper it was right back to doing it so.....

I'm thinking the alt pulley may have a glaze/slickness to it prompting the squeaking to happen, it has gotten a little better over the last few times it's been driven but so far the squeaking persists and it's not exactly a small chirp - More like an incessant squeaking/chirping that's loud.

I'm thinking if I were to repeat this with a piece of sandpaper attached to the belt with the abrasive side towards the pulleys that may finally put a stop to it once I remove it from the belt.
Attach the sandpaper piece with the same tape and drive it for a few days OR just double down and do both, just not at the same time of course since you can't scuff the pully if there is something already wrapped around it.

Thoughts?

[Vonrottes]

On 12/1/2023 at 5:03 PM, Beerzerker said:

Quick question:
I recently replaced the belt on my pickup because the old one was "Old" and was showing signs it needed replacing. Got a new one and it's squeaking like mad at times, belt dressing made no difference in what it's doing at all but do know the old belt didn't squeak in the least. It also has more tension on it because it's new, not stretched out from use like the old one but does the squeaking as described.

One thing I did not long after was to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around the alternator pulley and I used a small sliver of gorilla tape to wrap it around the pulley with the abrasive side outward towards the belt and let it run for a few minutes to scuff the new belt, in case it was slick like a new rear tire for a bike would be. 
They do tell you don't ride aggresively for a few days of riding or the bike may come out from under you in a curve because the rubber needs time to scuff so it's has grip. 

I did discover with this the squeaking stopped completely but after removing the sandpaper it was right back to doing it so.....

I'm thinking the alt pulley may have a glaze/slickness to it prompting the squeaking to happen, it has gotten a little better over the last few times it's been driven but so far the squeaking persists and it's not exactly a small chirp - More like an incessant squeaking/chirping that's loud.

I'm thinking if I were to repeat this with a piece of sandpaper attached to the belt with the abrasive side towards the pulleys that may finally put a stop to it once I remove it from the belt.
Attach the sandpaper piece with the same tape and drive it for a few days OR just double down and do both, just not at the same time of course since you can't scuff the pully if there is something already wrapped around it.

Thoughts?

Get a metal wire brush and just hold it against the pulley while the engine is running that's what I do when a pulley is looking sus with rust or other crap on it.

[vetali]

TIL that a J35 will be survive at least 80k miles if you install a fractured rod cap backwards. Former guy we used to employ did piston rings at 80k. Its back at 160k for consumption and misfire issues. Re-doing the ring job because we figured out that he was only doing the cylinder with the code rather than the whole bank... pull the cap and one side of the bearing is worn to the copper. I didn't notice orientation because usually I just line up the dot matrix side when assembling. Look at the cap and it looks really... strange. Like it was forced the wrong way. Excessive wear marks on one side of the cap. Ultrasonic it and try to fit the two back the way they are supposed to go and they wont fit.

 

I forgot to take pictures though. Crank has a very slight scuff mark but I think its alright. Still looks polished otherwise. I will try to get pics tomorrow. Had to order a new rod and bearing set. Can't see the crank code without removing the first main bearing cap. So just yolo'd the chart to determine what code it is and will plastigauge it to confirm.

[bcredeur97]

2 hours ago, vetali said:

TIL that a J35 will be survive at least 80k miles if you install a fractured rod cap backwards. Former guy we used to employ did piston rings at 80k. Its back at 160k for consumption and misfire issues. Re-doing the ring job because we figured out that he was only doing the cylinder with the code rather than the whole bank... pull the cap and one side of the bearing is worn to the copper. I didn't notice orientation because usually I just line up the dot matrix side when assembling. Look at the cap and it looks really... strange. Like it was forced the wrong way. Excessive wear marks on one side of the cap. Ultrasonic it and try to fit the two back the way they are supposed to go and they wont fit.

 

I forgot to take pictures though. Crank has a very slight scuff mark but I think its alright. Still looks polished otherwise. I will try to get pics tomorrow. Had to order a new rod and bearing set. Can't see the crank code without removing the first main bearing cap. So just yolo'd the chart to determine what code it is and will plastigauge it to confirm.

Interesting lol. That’s pretty impressive considering how far the tolerances will be out of whack from doing that. 
 

for some people 80k is the entire life of their car ownership

[vetali]

58 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Interesting lol. That’s pretty impressive considering how far the tolerances will be out of whack from doing that. 
 

for some people 80k is the entire life of their car ownership

I was impressed. The wear isn't bad for that big of a screw up and that much mileage. They burned through that 80k in 3 years.

[Bitter]

@vetali

Everything goes in the ultrasonic now, doesn't it? And if it's too big to fit you start thinking about bigger one.

[vetali]

6 hours ago, Bitter said:

@vetali

Everything goes in the ultrasonic now, doesn't it? And if it's too big to fit you start thinking about bigger one.

Yeah, I already want one big enough to fit oil pans now. I guess I could do half and half lol.

 

[bcredeur97]

7 hours ago, Bitter said:

@vetali

Everything goes in the ultrasonic now, doesn't it? And if it's too big to fit you start thinking about bigger one.

Lol ultrasonic cleaners got so popular all of a sudden. People didn’t know they existed I guess.

 

My dad is a jeweler so he always had several. They basically run 24/7 in his shop. Heated too. But they are pretty small