Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[terrytek]

29 minutes ago, vetali said:

Oh I'm not, an OEM MAF is probably 300 bucks. I haven't looked it up. Just gonna clean it and try it. Might try a new battery as well.

i don't think its your battery. if it was your battery, it wouldn't stay at like 500 rpm for a lil bit before rising to normal idle. it's either gonna struggle to start or it's not gonna start and you just hear clicking.

[vetali]

1 minute ago, bcredeur97 said:

also read it could be EGR related? lol

 

lots of things can affect idle... it's a shame, really

No I don't think so. EGR isn't going to open in cold start, and if it was stuck open I'd have a lot more issues.

 

1 minute ago, terrytek said:

i don't think its your battery. if it was your battery, it wouldn't stay at like 500 rpm for a lil bit before rising to normal idle. it's either gonna struggle to start or it's not gonna start and you just hear clicking.

I have a feeling the PCM is telling the alternator to output a lot before turning up the idle, creating a big load on the engine and causing it to idle low until it brings up the RPM. Also putting a big load on the system at idle really bogs it down for a second until the idle adjusts. 

[mbryant]

Not sure if this is the right place, but here it goes.

I drive a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe and I never listen to radio, the car has no auxiliary input and no bluetooth. I'm current;y using an FM tuner to play my phone through the car but due to the position of the antenna the signal is either garbage or great. I want to upgrade the stereo system (not the speakers) to something with USB and bluetooth but don't really know how to go about it as I don't know about the brands except JVC and Kenmore. Suggestions?

Pic of the interior, in case it matters a great deal. 

[chaozbandit]

Of happenings!

 

[OleST]

Some guy is selling a 1998 corolla hatchback and a massive car stereo system for 1800$ (usd)  the car has a dent on one side at the front but everything else looks like new. Is this a good first car?

 

 

Seller says he needs cash quickly and is selling the car at a low price to get it sold quickly. (The car has just passed an EU inspection as well)

[iDeFecZx]

20 minutes ago, OleST said:

Some guy is selling a 1998 corolla hatchback and a massive car stereo system for 1800$ (usd)  the car has a dent on one side at the front but everything else looks like new. Is this a good first car?

 

 

Seller says he needs cash quickly and is selling the car at a low price to get it sold quickly. (The car has just passed an EU inspection as well)

Any car is a good first car, so long as it isnt stupidly unreliable or powerful.

Cant imagine it would be either of those being a corolla, what engine does it have?

[chaozbandit]

The video Ive waited all season for !!

 

@MEC-777

 

 

[OleST]

37 minutes ago, iDeFecZx said:

Any car is a good first car, so long as it isnt stupidly unreliable or powerful.

Cant imagine it would be either of those being a corolla, what engine does it have?

Its a 1.3 4efe with a manual

[iDeFecZx]

26 minutes ago, OleST said:

Its a 1.3 4efe with a manual

Should be fine I would imagine

[FuzzyYellow]

12 hours ago, byalexandr said:

No I think that comes on the '85s, because when I was on the MR2 forums I noticed that the wiring for the MK1a (mine) and the later MK1bs (your dad's) are very different. So I think the MK1b has a 2 DIN stock.

 

Btw, did your dad have the A/C working? Did he have the original R12 system or did he retrofit the newer R134a?

i believe so. the last time he drive it was in the 1990s, so it definitely was still R12.

[FuzzyYellow]

I started replacing the rear struts in the Tundra, and boy were the shot! I only got one out, and the casing around the actual shock was so rusted that it broke off as i was trying to get the shock off. When i got it out I could compress it by hand, and it would stay compressed. I'm putting the second one in today.

[terrytek]

7 hours ago, vinyldash303 said:

Id look for something around the $200 price point from JVC or Pioneer thats single din, or if you want double din, around $300 from pioneer. Or if your car is 1.5 din like my s10 is, you can adapt it to 1 din and get a flip out unit like i want. 

i doubt it's 1.5 din. it looks closer to double din on there.

 

8 hours ago, mbryant said:

Not sure if this is the right place, but here it goes.

I drive a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe and I never listen to radio, the car has no auxiliary input and no bluetooth. I'm current;y using an FM tuner to play my phone through the car but due to the position of the antenna the signal is either garbage or great. I want to upgrade the stereo system (not the speakers) to something with USB and bluetooth but don't really know how to go about it as I don't know about the brands except JVC and Kenmore. Suggestions?

Pic of the interior, in case it matters a great deal. 

i say buy one from kenwood or pioneer that's cheap enough for your needs and would fit well. and keep in mind you'll probably need something to house the stereo, since it looks like you might have extra space around the aftermarket stereo since the stock stereo looks larger than average. also you need to find the right harness to hook up an aftermarket stereo to your sound system.

[KeltonDSMer]

10 hours ago, vetali said:

No I don't think so. EGR isn't going to open in cold start, and if it was stuck open I'd have a lot more issues.

 

I have a feeling the PCM is telling the alternator to output a lot before turning up the idle, creating a big load on the engine and causing it to idle low until it brings up the RPM. Also putting a big load on the system at idle really bogs it down for a second until the idle adjusts. 

 

I doubt it is the alternator load pulling your idle down. Most voltage regulators I've run into have been integrated into to alternator itself and run independently from any outside control. Also, even at max output at idle, it takes only ~1hp to drive say a 90A alternator (~50% max output at idle speeds/~70% efficiency= 64.3A*~13.5V is only like 865W to drive a maxed out 90A rated alternator at idle speed). An AC compressor takes way more power to drive than that, same with a power steering pump moving cold oil.

 

You can already rule out the alternator being the problem if you put a big load on the electrical system while it is running at low idle, maybe by firing up the window defroster or something. If the engine bogs even more (would indicate alternator is not at max output before hand), it's not the alternator and points towards the idle speed control system itself. If there is no noticeable change, it's possible I guess. From your description of it bogging more when you load the electrical, I seriously doubt the alternator is the culprit since that shows it's output wasn't maxing out before the load.

 

What engine is this? Do you have a manual air bypass screw on the throttle body? Lots of motors have both an automated cold idle bypass and a manual one. I know my 4g63's like a little extra air at idle when starting in the winter so I back off (open up) the manual screw a bit in the cold months. The automated bypasses are absolute shit on these things so dealing with strange idle behavior is something I've dealt with a lot!

[terrytek]

looks like forza motorsport 7 is confirmed, though not from the source you think. 

the article if you wanna see it. https://www.gtplanet.net/forza-motorsport-7-confirmed-by-fanatec-with-promising-news-for-wheel-users/

[chaozbandit]

16 minutes ago, terrytek said:

looks like forza motorsport 7 is confirmed, though not from the source you think. 

the article if you wanna see it. https://www.gtplanet.net/forza-motorsport-7-confirmed-by-fanatec-with-promising-news-for-wheel-users/

Don't know why people are surprised honestly, it's a biennial title. I still have 0 faith that turn 10 will be able to program an engine properly for PC without a major overhaul in the same way SMS is doing for Project CARS. 

 

On the new hardware, people buying in now are spoiled by choice but the premiums keep  going up. If you're on PC there's an abundance if choice and driver support but expecting the same kind of market to thrive on console without first party support is having an unreal expectation.  

 

On Peter specifically, a lot of the points he goes over is specific to his own setup and a lot of the  ideas already exist in a way on PC. 

 

In short, you still gotta pay to play and invest in good hardware to get the most out of the experience. 

[RevoltTrain]

The struggle. 

[techswede]

4 minutes ago, RevoltTrain said:

The struggle. 

 

I always see it as more of a 370z that crashed into a dorito truck

[vkm]

On 2016-08-18 at 11:12 AM, vkm said:

What's up guys. New gear head here, just found this thread. Finishing up a project that's been going on for a while now. 87 Supra turbo that I've had for 5 years.  I just rebuilt the engine and going big with it. Built to take about 900hp. Eagle rods, wiseco pistons, HKS metal headgasket, BC 272 cams in a fully built head with port and polish, 3 angle valve job and combustion chamber reshaping.

 

Turbo is a pte 6152 bolt on from SP that I just got polished and ceramic coated. Injector dynamics 850cc injectors. Custom intake manifold(covered in painters tape to protect it, it's polished). 3" divorced downpipe to a straight pipe exhaust. Big fuel pump. Ect.

 

Goal is 550-600whp.

 

Currently making a custom engine harness for my Megasquirt 3x standalone ecu and upgrading fuel lines to -6an braided from the tank.

 

Had to finish my computer build first (see below) paired along side a busy life, she's taken some time to complete but it's almost there.

 

Just a video of it idling with newly built engine. Haven't driven it since, needs the standalone and a tune.

 

8

What's up guys.

Finally finished my car. Dyno'd at 513whp/485ft lbs tq. But that's only revving to 6k rpm. It can rev to 7500, but I'm having some issues with excessive crankcase pressure. Working on it and hopefully this year will run about 550+ at 20psi. Note: harness still needs to be wrapped, I was still troubleshooting wiring.

 

How beautiful is that dyno chart?!

 

Dyno Video:

And just because who doesn't love a good straight piped inline 6 2 step? (First time testing, needs some tweaks, also I'm new to using it lol)

 

[terrytek]

2 minutes ago, vkm said:

What's up guys.

Finally finished my car. Dyno'd at 513whp/485ft lbs tq. But that's only revving to 6k rpm. It can rev to 7500, but I'm having some issues with excessive crankcase pressure. Working on it and hopefully this year will run about 550+ at 20psi. Note: harness still needs to be wrapped, I was still troubleshooting wiring.

 

How beautiful is that dyno chart?!

 

 

 

Dyno Video:

And just because who doesn't love a good straight piped inline 6 2 step? (First time testing, needs some tweaks, also I'm new to using it lol)

 

holy shit does that sound good, with that lumpy sound, plus that 2 step, but i've always thought the 7mge and boost don't mix. i've always heard they blew head gaskets like crazy on boost.

[vkm]

1 minute ago, terrytek said:

holy shit does that sound good, with that lumpy sound, plus that 2 step, but i've always thought the 7mge and boost don't mix. i've always heard they blew head gaskets like crazy on boost.

 

Thanks! Love the idle, can't get enough of it lol. One of those things that always puts a smile on your face when you walk away with the turbo timer going.

7mge doesn't like boost but 7mgte can handle a certain amount fine with the right work. I have wiseco pistons and eagle rods with all arp hardware in the bottom as well as ARP head studs with a HKS 1.4mm metal headgasket to keep it all in check.

[terrytek]

18 minutes ago, vkm said:

Thanks! Love the idle, can't get enough of it lol. One of those things that always puts a smile on your face when you walk away with the turbo timer going.

7mge doesn't like boost but 7mgte can handle a certain amount fine with the right work. I have wiseco pistons and eagle rods with all arp hardware in the bottom as well as ARP head studs with a HKS 1.4mm metal headgasket to keep it all in check.

ah, it's good someone actually invested in a stronger bottom end instead of trying to force boost into a stock bottom end. but 20psi? isn't that  bit much, even for a reinforced 7mge?

[vkm]

2 minutes ago, terrytek said:

ah, it's good someone actually invested in a stronger bottom end instead of trying to force boost into a stock bottom end. but 20psi? isn't that  bit much, even for a reinforced 7mge?

 

Well it's only actually 20psi on a 6152 turbo so the volumetric efficiency isn't the same as say a 6766 so 20psi on my turbo is a lot less flow than 20psi on a 6766. PSI is only relevent to the turbo. It's really not a good measurement. Every turbo flows differently.

[FuzzyYellow]

here's a picture of one of the old struts that I compressed by hand.

 

 

[iHardware Shelden]

18 minutes ago, FuzzyYellow said:

here's a picture of one of the old struts that I compressed by hand.

 

 

 

My god... what is that from?

[FuzzyYellow]

2 minutes ago, iHardware Shelden said:

My god... what is that from?

2002 Tundra with 192k on it.