Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[FuzzyYellow]

11 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

@FuzzyYellow

 

oh my goodness... what did i just watch?!?! 

[FuzzyYellow]

Just now, vinyldash303 said:

A Walmart song with shaking booty. Filmed with a toaster. 

i think i need therapy.

[terrytek]

1 minute ago, vinyldash303 said:

That's adorable

it really is. it's got that cute adorable front end, and it's just so cute and small overall

 

21 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

im sorry, but as much as I like it, it's not worth $40,000

 

cool car though. I want to put a big engine in one

40 grand? i must have missed that completely. yeah, i wouldn't pay 40 grand for it, but still a cute car nonetheless.

 

16 minutes ago, FuzzyYellow said:

i've been using Fram Tough Guard. (so not the blow-up cheap ones)

 

maybe i'll switch to  Fram ultra synthetic.

why not use a k&n filter? you can buy those either online or at autozone.

 

14 minutes ago, v-raze said:

Just throwing this out there in case anyone's familiar with DSMs...

 

I'm president of the autos club at my school. Mainly we just work on the club car, a '98 Eagle Talon Tsi. Right now we have the engine (the one and only Mitsubishi 4G63T, ours is a seven-bolt if I remember right) out of the car to rebuild, and I need to find a good kit with all the gaskets/seals/rings/bearings to rebuild it with. I've done some research but I'm not really sure where to start and I haven't found much. Anyone know a good place to shop and what I should be looking for?

have you actually tried your local autozone? if not, places like rockauto and autoanything should have them.

[v-raze]

3 minutes ago, terrytek said:

have you actually tried your local autozone? if not, places like rockauto and autoanything should have them.

I'm mainly looking online at the moment. The local store I tried didn't have anything for it, but I'll be looking at a few others nearby. Was mainly just checking if there was anything in particular I should look for. Thanks for the suggestions/

 

While I'm rebuilding the engine, what else should I replace? It's an interference engine so definitely getting timing belts, but what other stuff would you normally change out? Water pump, pulleys, maybe the starter? This is my first full automotive engine rebuild and we're not trying to upgrade too much, just get it reliable and working well.

[FuzzyYellow]

5 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

holy crap! O_O

[MEC-777]

I know a couple of you posted this video earlier but I only just got the chance to watch it now. 

 

Called it!  All things kept relatively equal, same boost, same engine etc.  turbo > SC all day long.  More usable power across the rpm range and more peak power.

 

Turbos 4 life!

 

 

 

[bcredeur97]

50 minutes ago, terrytek said:

it really is. it's got that cute adorable front end, and it's just so cute and small overall

 

40 grand? i must have missed that completely. yeah, i wouldn't pay 40 grand for it, but still a cute car nonetheless.

 

why not use a k&n filter? you can buy those either online or at autozone.

 

have you actually tried your local autozone? if not, places like rockauto and autoanything should have them.

Wait don't K&N filters have that welded nut on the end? I might get one for that reason alone lol...

 

i wish oil (filter) changes weren't such a pain in the behind on the Miata. Having to reach your hand around the intake manifold hurts.. And it makes a mess  

[vetali]

38 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

 

RIP brand new king ranch.  

[terrytek]

2 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Wait don't K&N filters have that welded nut on the end? I might get one for that reason alone lol...

 

i wish oil (filter) changes weren't such a pain in the behind on the Miata. Having to reach your hand around the intake manifold hurts.. And it makes a mess  

yup. i love those, i don't need some fancy oil filter wrench to get it out. i just wished it was the same size nut as the the drain plug, so i can just use one wrench for two things. but i don't need to worry about the plug, since i got an oil drain valve. it does choke flow a bit when draining, but it's seriously less messy (like seriously better, almost no spills at all and hot oil all over my hands, the plug, etc.

 

and on the protege it sucks, because you have to get behind the engine (gotta remember it's a transverse fwd config) and reach up. it's such an inconvenient spot.

46 minutes ago, v-raze said:

I'm mainly looking online at the moment. The local store I tried didn't have anything for it, but I'll be looking at a few others nearby. Was mainly just checking if there was anything in particular I should look for. Thanks for the suggestions/

 

While I'm rebuilding the engine, what else should I replace? It's an interference engine so definitely getting timing belts, but what other stuff would you normally change out? Water pump, pulleys, maybe the starter? This is my first full automotive engine rebuild and we're not trying to upgrade too much, just get it reliable and working well.

pulleys and starter should still be ok, if they are still in good condition. otherwise, replace them. and water pump i'd replace when you have the timing belt out. also i'd recommend a thermostat change too.

[vetali]

1 minute ago, vinyldash303 said:

Should only need new pistons, exhaust manifold, turbo, and exhaust. So half the cost of the truck.  

Half of 60+k

 

I really wonder what they would do in that case. Part of me thinks they would just fix the DEF problem and just ship it to avoid putting a longblock in there. 

[vetali]

1 minute ago, vinyldash303 said:

Trailer to wherever it came from and warranty it.

Yeaah I dunno. I feel like if it ran fine after fixing the issue they would ship it hoping it would last long enough to get past warranty. 

[terrytek]

ever seen a truck rally? now you have.

[bcredeur97]

15 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

Relocation kit?

That'll be $250 please

13 minutes ago, terrytek said:

yup. i love those, i don't need some fancy oil filter wrench to get it out. i just wished it was the same size nut as the the drain plug, so i can just use one wrench for two things. but i don't need to worry about the plug, since i got an oil drain valve. it does choke flow a bit when draining, but it's seriously less messy (like seriously better, almost no spills at all and hot oil all over my hands, the plug, etc.

 

and on the protege it sucks, because you have to get behind the engine (gotta remember it's a transverse fwd config) and reach up. it's such an inconvenient spot.

pulleys and starter should still be ok, if they are still in good condition. otherwise, replace them. and water pump i'd replace when you have the timing belt out. also i'd recommend a thermostat change too.

Eh I don't mind the plug on mine, Miata has a lot of room around it to get your hands away without getting oil on them. 

 

Yeah i was thinking about that.... I figured yours must be on the back since mine is on the left side. Though I still have my doubts that's it's harder to get to than mine. Like you literally can't get to mine at all if you have big arms... It's terrible 

[terrytek]

2 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

That'll be $250 please

Eh I don't mind the plug on mine, Miata has a lot of room around it to get your hands away without getting oil on them. 

 

Yeah i was thinking about that.... I figured yours must be on the back since mine is on the left side. Though I still have my doubts that's it's harder to get to than mine. Like you literally can't get to mine at all if you have big arms... It's terrible 

i mean my dad was always getting oil on the plug and his hands, so he was like nope i'm not dealing with this anymore and got these oil drain valves  http://www.ezoildrainvalve.com/ for example and they actually work very well at preventing a mess. plus, you only need to actuate a little switch to get it flowing. only downside is that it's got reduced flow rate compared to just a plug. but it's worth it to prevent spills all over the concrete and on hands.

 

and really it's nearly impossible to get to the filter, even from below. it's literally squeezed between the engine and the firewall, and there is like 3 inches of room between the engine and the firewall. it's bad. mazda really didn't think things through when it came to oil maintenance.

[terrytek]

ooooo kinda tempted. http://modesto.craigslist.org/cto/5829359035.html

[vetali]

2 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

@bcredeur97 This is what you need. 

https://www.amazon.com/Trans-Dapt-1158-Oil-Filter-Relocation/dp/B000CQ20IW

M20x1.5 threads, just need to get different lines. Or put hose clamps around the barb fittings. 

 

There's also a kit I can link you for two filters  

My dad has an amsoil dual filter relocation kit he had on his old Toyota 22RE. Those filters were like, dodge cummins size filters. 

[bcredeur97]

4 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

@bcredeur97 This is what you need. 

https://www.amazon.com/Trans-Dapt-1158-Oil-Filter-Relocation/dp/B000CQ20IW

-snip-

M20x1.5 threads, just need to get different lines. Or put hose clamps around the barb fittings. 

 

There's also a kit I can link you for two filters  

That's cool but why is flyin miatas kit so expensive? I'm almost skeptical to buy something that cheap 

 

also I would definetly put good quality lines. Using barb fittings with rubber hose is sooo sketchy lol

[terrytek]

1 minute ago, vetali said:

My dad has an amsoil dual filter relocation kit he had on his old Toyota 22RE. Those filters were like, dodge cummins size filters. 

why does a 22re need filters that huge? it's only a 4 cylinder, it doesn't need that much, does it?

[bcredeur97]

1 minute ago, terrytek said:

why does a 22re need filters that huge? it's only a 4 cylinder, it doesn't need that much, does it?

Change filters every 30k miles maybe?

[vetali]

1 minute ago, vinyldash303 said:

Good thing about these trans dapt kits is you keep using the filter that you would normally, OR you can order whatever kit you want based on the filters you want to use. I'd love to use cummins filters actually  

I was doing an oil change on a newish dodge cummins. Literally nobody had oil filters. Ordered a Napa Gold cause I was running the shop that day and figured I would get this lady an actual good filter... they delivered it and I open it.. and no o ring. I was about to slap it in and start it.

[vetali]

Just now, vinyldash303 said:

The one gallon Cat filters then?

Nah they had a few more on shelf. It was weird that every place didn't have their bulk crappy filters in stock. 

[terrytek]

5 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Change filters every 30k miles maybe?

i'd love that service interval. if only oil itself can last that long.

[bcredeur97]

13 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

@bcredeur97 This is what you need. 

https://www.amazon.com/Trans-Dapt-1158-Oil-Filter-Relocation/dp/B000CQ20IW

M20x1.5 threads, just need to get different lines. Or put hose clamps around the barb fittings. 

 

There's also a kit I can link you for two filters  

Reviews of the metal casting on this kit is very poor  

[warmmilk]

10 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

That's cool but why is flyin miatas kit so expensive? I'm almost skeptical to buy something that cheap 

 

also I would definetly put good quality lines. Using barb fittings with rubber hose is sooo sketchy lol

just looking at the pics of the FM kit you can see where the difference in cost went.

 

In my opinion, if you're gonna go through the trouble of relocating the filter, might as well do an oil cooler at the same time as well

[warmmilk]

2 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

Lemme find the one from their nicer line. HP ones are supposed to be nicer. Still Universal though to the FM one will be nicer.  

not just the line, look at the adapters

 

https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-na-nb-oil-filter-relocation-kit.html