Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[vetali]

3 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

lol *sad face*

 

I like VW... but I sort of agree somewhat... their newer cars are so overly-complex. Module for this, module for that. and everything is crazy expensive. Like why can't they just have one main ecu like everyone else? lol

Well I don't find an issue with modules. The problem is their release tangs for their connectors and lack of bulkheads. The release tangs are impossible to unlatch without a screwdriver and without any bulkheads you have to unhook everything to do a motor. Which a lot of manufacturers do this, but with the crappy tangs it makes it to where I gotta remove a lot of unnecessary things just to get to one connector with a screwdriver. I mean, I worked 8 hours today and I'm just about to get the motor+trans out... pretty pathetic. 

[AlwaysFSX]

1 minute ago, terrytek said:

i would definitely put some meatier and bigger tires if i build a truck for offroad, and definitely tougher shocks, because i doubt the stock ones can take a serious beating offroad.

I would avoid massive tires and just go for enough ground clearance and good tread on them. And it depends what you're doing, I can go off roading just fine with my stock shocks. I'm not doing any pre-running but that doesn't come up very often either. Usually if you're getting to the limit of your shocks you're past the limit of your tires on whatever terrain you're driving on.

[terrytek]

3 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

I would avoid massive tires and just go for enough ground clearance and good tread on them. And it depends what you're doing, I can go off roading just fine with my stock shocks. I'm not doing any pre-running but that doesn't come up very often either. Usually if you're getting to the limit of your shocks you're past the limit of your tires on whatever terrain you're driving on.

i mean i'm not talking huge tires, maybe just tires with rims one size larger than stock, with some deep tread, like toyo open country tires, and maybe i'd carve up some local offroad trails, but there could be some low speed crawling, and i might need some shocks that allow a very wide range of flex.

[Midnitewarrior4]

18 minutes ago, terrytek said:

boring? trucks can be fun, give them good suspension with a couple inches lift, some good rims and tires, and you can have something that can offroad and still be able to tow a decent amount.

 

16 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Perfect!

M8ie I can drift every corner if I wanted to, I wouldn't say trucks are boring.

Ok I shouldn't have said trucks are boring rather, the trucks in my price range would be boring lol, just a run of the mill mid size like a ranger, to coma,  dakota, or something of that nature  that would be the most practical  anyways, would lover a first or second gen cummins with a nice set of tires and leave it alone besides that  or an old style nissan or toyota Har body style, with flat bed, roll cage and a decent tire setup with a moderate lift for going out in the bush.....  and I know trucks can drift still remember driving down a twisty gravel road in the snow with my dad's boat of a dodge diesel 4 door long box manual drifting around every corner... even on yhe streets once the tires were a little more worn.... wish he still had that thing... peice of shit body but I'd still rip it.... rip crank bearings

[AlwaysFSX]

4 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

All you need to do is rip the lower air dam on the bumper off and you're good. Then go up one size with Toyo open country AT/2 s if you're just hitting some dirt, or MT/2 if your hitting some light mud. They're spendy but damn are they good tires for just about anything a daily will see.

I've heard some Pirelli Scorpions are pretty amazing as being both on road and off road tires. I've still got tread left so I've got time to pick.

 

And yeah, that air dam is annoying.

4 minutes ago, terrytek said:

i mean i'm not talking huge tires, maybe just tires with rims one size larger than stock, with some deep tread, like toyo open country tires, and maybe i'd carve up some local offroad trails, but there could be some low speed crawling, and i might need some shocks that allow a very wide range of flex.

You're better off keeping the stock wheel or same size + beadlock and getting a meatier tire so you can air down properly.  

[AlwaysFSX]

Just now, vinyldash303 said:

I almost want to get a toyo banner for my windshield

I can't stand windshield banners.

[terrytek]

2 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

I've heard some Pirelli Scorpions are pretty amazing as being both on road and off road tires. I've still got tread left so I've got time to pick.

You're better off keeping the stock wheel or same size + beadlock and getting a meatier tire so you can air down properly.  

i mean i'd like to look for some new rims if i get a truck, and i'd get something at least one size larger to give it a bigger appearance. i mean i feel like it might give the same effect larger rims on a car would give compared to stock sized.

 

3 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

I almost want to get a toyo banner for my windshield

i wanna get a speedhunters banner on my car (wish i'd do it for my e39 m5, but there's a sensor at the top of the windshield preventing it.

[FuzzyYellow]

okay, another question. the accord recommends 5w-20 oil. I'm looking at getting either 0w-20 or 5w-30 synthetic for my next change (pennzoil platinum pure plus). given that temps are dropping now, do I go with the 0w-20, or the thicker 5w-30?

[AlwaysFSX]

Just now, vinyldash303 said:

I for sure want to get the biggest tint visor thing 

 

Whatever these are called:

 

Done on the s10 just because I drive west and east around the times the sun is rising and setting.

 

And I think they look neat. 

 

Okay thats the main reason but still.

I'm sticking with my sunglasses. Though I really need to replace the lenses. Left one is scratched pretty well and they aren't quite tinted enough for when I'm driving during sunset.

 

Though that's mainly a problem because nobody turns their fucking lights on.

[bcredeur97]

2 minutes ago, FuzzyYellow said:

okay, another question. the accord recommends 5w-20 oil. I'm looking at getting either 0w-20 or 5w-30 synthetic for my next change (pennzoil platinum pure plus). given that temps are dropping now, do I go with the 0w-20, or the thicker 5w-30?

5w-30 is fine, but heck, I like to run a 0w-xx in our cars in the winter. Makes a noticeable difference even though it only gets down to the 30's here.

 

0w-30 would probably work too

[bcredeur97]

1 minute ago, vinyldash303 said:

-snip-

5w-20 because that's what the people smarter than (almost) all of us here decided would be best. The last thing you want is Vtec to not kick in when you need to spin the tires to get unstuck. 

 

Vtec can not work because you used the improper oil weight. 

pffffft

[bcredeur97]

1 minute ago, vinyldash303 said:

Remember though he has Vtec, and as ETCG has said, when the Vtec light comes on usually its an oil issue, and usually its because they used something other than what the filler cap says.

all im gonna say is if the UOA's come out fine from other people using it in the same motor, the oil is fine.

[FuzzyYellow]

4 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

5w-20 because that's what the people smarter than (almost) all of us here decided would be best. The last thing you want is Vtec to not kick in when you need to spin the tires to get unstuck. 

 

Vtec can not work because you used the improper oil weight. 

yeah. the thing is, we do get down to 0 and below frequently here, and the car is going to be outside 24/7, so the 0w-20 might be kinda nice on the engine, and it's still a 20 weight, so it still should be in spec.

 

2 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

Remember though he has Vtec, and as ETCG has said, when the Vtec light comes on usually its an oil issue, and usually its because they used something other than what the filler cap says.

i've been using 5w-30 for 7k miles now with no issues. 

[FuzzyYellow]

Just now, vinyldash303 said:

Just let it warm up a bit then. If you really feel you need to get the 0 weight but if it were me, I'd just run the 5w-20 year round. But its your car so it comes down to what you want to do.

the other thing is, cold startups account for a good chunk of engine wear. i'm just trying to minimize that, especially because they're the same price.

[FuzzyYellow]

1 minute ago, vinyldash303 said:

That's why I try to idle mine in the morning as long as I can. In the winter its usually 10 or 15 min. and I know idling it isn't hurting it at all in the morning because the oil pressure is just under 50 pounds. That way the oil is just reaching OT when I roll into the parking lot at school. 

 

But try it. Why not? have you got an oil pressure gauge in your cluster?

no oil pressure or temp gauge unfortunately.

[terrytek]

16 minutes ago, FuzzyYellow said:

okay, another question. the accord recommends 5w-20 oil. I'm looking at getting either 0w-20 or 5w-30 synthetic for my next change (pennzoil platinum pure plus). given that temps are dropping now, do I go with the 0w-20, or the thicker 5w-30?

i've used 5w30 on the van even though it calls for 5w20, and it still runs fine. might take a little longer to warm up, but it does seal up much better. plus i think it can keep heat in better, iirc.

[FuzzyYellow]

1 minute ago, vinyldash303 said:

@fuzzyyellow  If you really wanted to you could add a prelube system like they do on gensets and then crank it over. All it does is turn over the oil pump for like 15 seconds before the starter engages. You'd have no wear  

i'll look into it, thanks.

[terrytek]

this is such a cute car aw http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/5801852162.html

[bcredeur97]

2 minutes ago, terrytek said:

this is such a cute car aw http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/5801852162.html

im sorry, but as much as I like it, it's not worth $40,000

 

cool car though. I want to put a big engine in one

[chaozbandit]

1 hour ago, Midnitewarrior4 said:

is it on pc ? if so where the hell do i buy ?

 

Windows store, you need the W10 anniversary update to be eligible to play. $80/100/120 for the different editions which give you access to VIP (2x credits on in-game events) and DLC content. I've heard mixed reviews of playing on a 970 but for now I'd wait it out a couple more weeks until Turn 10 sorts out the accidental bans from online play. The engine could use a bit more optimization if you're really looking to push your system graphically, otherwise I'd say the gameplay experience is 70% there. I've had a lot of crashing on my copy and I've logged a week of in-game time to date, many of those hours enjoyable but the bugs stand out more than they should.

 

1 hour ago, Mister2010 said:

why would you need the aniversary edition? .... just windows 10 should do ... in theory ....

a ton of people are saying that its not worth it ... but then again ... it seems to be quite good even with its faults (i dont have it since my pc would just melt it self when i would start the game up ) 

idk .. never bought anything from the MS store maybe @chaozbandit knows more about it 

 

 

You need the anniversary update to play FH3. At least, that was the condition that needed to be met when I preloaded the game.

 

It's not worth it if you're paying the full $100 and you're not going to be playing every week. The main reason why the digital copy from the Windows store is so expensive is because it's part of the Play Anywhere program, meaning you are buying access to play on PC and XB1. So your best bet is to either wait a bit to see if there are any decent discounts for PC, see if there are cheaper console versions if you have the XB1 because chances are your FH3 experience will genuinely be better there (plus its all the same co-op / online gameplay anyways).

 

Just whatever you do, don't buy from grey-market websites that sell keys.

 

That being said, there is technically a 30-day trial period whereby you can apply for a refund if you don't like the game, if you really want to see how it handles (but be weary because Microsoft support are known to have turned some people down). There are plenty of videos on YouTube and with the latest patch 1070 users are reporting decent FPS.

 

These are from two patches ago, if you wanted an idea of what the gameplay is like.

 

 

[FuzzyYellow]

i think i've chosen what oil i wanna use.

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-0W-20-Synthetic-with-MaxLife-Technology-5-qt/49660458

[FuzzyYellow]

Just now, vinyldash303 said:

What filter?

i've been using Fram Tough Guard. (so not the blow-up cheap ones)

 

maybe i'll switch to  Fram ultra synthetic.

[v-raze]

Just throwing this out there in case anyone's familiar with DSMs...

 

I'm president of the autos club at my school. Mainly we just work on the club car, a '98 Eagle Talon Tsi. Right now we have the engine (the one and only Mitsubishi 4G63T, ours is a seven-bolt if I remember right) out of the car to rebuild, and I need to find a good kit with all the gaskets/seals/rings/bearings to rebuild it with. I've done some research but I'm not really sure where to start and I haven't found much. Anyone know a good place to shop and what I should be looking for?

[vetali]

39 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

Remember though he has Vtec, and as ETCG has said, when the Vtec light comes on usually its an oil issue, and usually its because they used something other than what the filler cap says.

Not just vtec... any variable valve timing you should use the rated oil. 

[FuzzyYellow]

1 minute ago, vinyldash303 said:

Why not something like an STP Extended life?

cuz they aren't at walmart?