Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[bcredeur97]

I have till march to get these tires and stuff guys so I'm not in a rush, so if you guys could keep your eyes peeled for free or ludicrously cheap 15 or 16" rims around 6" wide or so for me that would be great. Need 4 though. Not going to run two different sets of two unless they are all black steelies or something. Having two different rims would erk me lol

[FuzzyYellow]

well, looks like tomorrow is going to be a day of working on the Tundra! i'm going to clean the air filter, as well has replace some bulbs that have been burnt out for a while, and look at attaching the swaybar back up. going to be a fun day, I just hope it isn't too cold outside.

[bcredeur97]

What's stock size? How much rub do you want? Also be ready to pay $25 a wheel. That's what my local yard charges and they're pretty good.

Stock size is 185/65R14. I want no rub. Biggest size I have confirmed so far is 195 wide... But if I could fit a 205 (doubtful) or even a 215 (highly doubtful) in there that would be amazing..

[FuzzyYellow]

WOOOOOOO. You might also look into the TRD rear sway bar. 

maybe. we'll see how the stock one does. It's my parent's vehicle, so I don't wanna put money into it, and they don't really want to put money into anything that doesn't affect MPGs.

[FuzzyYellow]

It'll help with MPGs. Yeah that's what sway bars do. Keep the gas tank level so your molecules don't get shifted as much making the octanes more reactive.

lol. my parents are a little too smart for that.

[FuzzyYellow]

If I ever get high and decide to buy a tundra, its getting the TRD super charger and rear sway bar. Be awesome. 

the supercharger is pretty dope. too bad they dicontinued the one for the V8...

[vetali]

Looks like I won't be getting a tundra. Among other reasons. (namly no grease fittings on anything, although that seems to be the case for most newer things unfortunatly) I wish I had some on the U joints, but I've got some on everything else. Don't know what half the shit is but I do know I climb under the bastard and there's millions of them. Just pump a few squirts in them every time I change the oil.

No grease fittings, but they last forever.

[FuzzyYellow]

Looks like I won't be getting a tundra. Among other reasons. (namly no grease fittings on anything, although that seems to be the case for most newer things unfortunatly) I wish I had some on the U joints, but I've got some on everything else. Don't know what half the shit is but I do know I climb under the bastard and there's millions of them. Just pump a few squirts in them every time I change the oil.

yeah, the suspension on the tundra has been squeaking again. not noticeable when driving, but when it's parked you can. they only place the Tundra has grease certs is on the U-joints.

[bcredeur97]

You might be able to swing 205/50? Stock s10 size is 205/50/15 but you can go up to 235/75/15 with just a haaaiiiiiiirrr of rub. (you litterally take a dremal with a sanding wheel and trim 2mm off the bottom of the inner fender and its gone from what I read. I'll be going to 225/75/15 so I don't have to do that.

Idk... Should i just go for it lol?. I also don't want to invoke sidewall flex from too wide of a tire on too small of a rim.

Better yet, I'll ask toyotanation.

Also still need that better sway bar really bad... Body roll is killer on my car. I'm scared with grippier tires I might two wheel and/or roll it. Nah probably won't happen... But what if it does?

[FuzzyYellow]

No grease fittings, but they last forever.

yup. pretty common to see 250-300k or more on these first gen ones.

[FuzzyYellow]

Know if the tundra drive shaft is GM compatible

 

doubt it, but ya never know.

[FuzzyYellow]

Worth a shot. Have you got those funky sealed hub/bearing assembly things in the back too? Or just the front and use axel bearings in the rear? I found out not too long ago that the ZR2 s10s use those sealed hub/bearing assemblies in the front because of the driven front independent suspension which actually almost makes me glad I've got the standard 2wd. In the rear I've got axel bearings which are lubed by the diff fluid so if they go out somethings gone horribly wrong.

 

I have no idea. this is really the first few months I've given a crap about cars, so I'm still learning.

 

ours is a 4WD model, so it definitely has a diff in the front also, but i' not sure about how the bearings are set up. I really need to get the wheels balanced.

[vetali]

I've been engraved with old school methods. I blame my grandad. New grease never hurt anything and I'm still on all factory wheel bearings, and probably always will be.

Eh. Most american trucks' suspension goes to hell after 160k, 130k if a dodge lol.

Best example is toyota wheel bearings are pressed in and a huge pita to change, however they last 200k+. A ford exploder rear wheel wheel bearing on the IRS versions last 150k. Did one on a mountaineer with 130k. And had to warranty it already because Chinese bearings.

[FuzzyYellow]

I'm on all new shocks with coils in the front and leafs in the rear, tapered rollers in the front that were just packed. Won't ever have to do the rears because they don't exist. What's that leave? Ball joints? Mine seem pretty easy to change if rust isn't an issue. (which it isn't)

just had ball joints done a few months ago because of a recall. thanks toyota!

[FuzzyYellow]

what do you guys think of this? http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/cto/5360401791.html

[vetali]

I'm on all new shocks with coils in the front and leafs in the rear, tapered rollers in the front that were just packed. Won't ever have to do the rears because they don't exist. What's that leave? Ball joints? Mine seem pretty easy to change if rust isn't an issue. (which it isn't)

not sure on 2wd s10s. On 4wd: ball joints sometimes, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm sometimes. Bearing hubs always go out, and once you replace the original you'll be in a never ending replacement train because they're all bad.

I hear lots of bad things about chevy diffs, but only had one bad one before (not including the one that exploded because they messed with the angle of the diff). Never done chevy rear wheel bearings.

[FuzzyYellow]

not sure on 2wd s10s. On 4wd: ball joints sometimes, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm sometimes. Bearing hubs always go out, and once you replace the original you'll be in a never ending replacement train because they're all bad.

I hear lots of bad things about chevy diffs, but only had one bad one before (not including the one that exploded because they messed with the angle of the diff). Never done chevy rear wheel bearings.

anything I should look at doing at 183k? not a whole lot has been done other than oil. I've got time tomorrow, and would like to take care of everything.

[bob345]

@bob345 why not a 2jz swap for your e46? they're pretty common for e46s so you could get some parts for it at relatively low prices, and also, to me, it would sound better.

meh, too many people with jz swaps around me already. Plus, v8. And remember, to keep the swap legal it needs to be stock. The stock 2jz tt is really kinda boring power wise.

[vetali]

anything I should look at doing at 183k? not a whole lot has been done other than oil. I've got time tomorrow, and would like to take care of everything.

Have you done a timing belt and water pump yet? Should be done after the first 90k and after that every 60k unless you get Toyota parts. Check plugs and wires. Check your belts for cracking. Check diff fluids and transfer case fluids, brakes, brake fluid. Check over your lights, windshield wipers, tire pressure... yeah

just basic check overs.

[FuzzyYellow]

Have you done a timing belt and water pump yet? Should be done after the first 90k and after that every 60k unless you get Toyota parts. Check plugs and wires. Check your belts for cracking. Check diff fluids and transfer case fluids, brakes, brake fluid. Check over your lights, windshield wipers, tire pressure... yeah

just basic check overs.

timing belt has been done. not sure about water pump. plugs I have to order, but am doing soon, serpentine belt is fairly new. I'll have to check diff fluids. another things that should be done is the brakes should be bled. we put new rotors on last time the pads were changed and there's quite a bit of play before the pedal hits the braking point. it hasn't been an issue, just something to get used to. light are another thing I'm covering tomorrow. I know there's a running light up front out, and also a reverse light. I'll also be getting new headlights tomorrow because the existing ones are pretty dim.

 

 

another thing, do you know how hot transmission fluid is supposed to be to be considered "hot" by the lines on the dipstick? because after driving for about an hour, it barely gets lukewarm, and doesn't come close to getting to the  "hot" lines on the dipstick, but if the fluid isn't hot, then it won't, and I don't want to overfill it. it's also been about a thousand miles since the whole radiator fiasco.

[vetali]

timing belt has been done. not sure about water pump. plugs I have to order, but am doing soon, serpentine belt is fairly new. I'll have to check diff fluids. another things that should be done is the brakes should be bled. we put new rotors on last time the pads were changed and there's quite a bit of play before the pedal hits the braking point. it hasn't been an issue, just something to get used to. light are another thing I'm covering tomorrow. I know there's a running light up front out, and also a reverse light. I'll also be getting new headlights tomorrow because the existing ones are pretty dim.

 

 

another thing, do you know how hot transmission fluid is supposed to be to be considered "hot" by the lines on the dipstick? because after driving for about an hour, it barely gets lukewarm, and doesn't come close to getting to the  "hot" lines on the dipstick, but if the fluid isn't hot, then it won't, and I don't want to overfill it. it's also been about a thousand miles since the whole radiator fiasco.

Usually the "hot" mark is just when its warmed up engine temp wise. If you wana get transmission fluid hot make it shift a lot. Force it to down shift by stabbing the throttle. Power brake it even. However it shouldn't be necessary. Honestly as long as its between the cold and hot area it should function fine.

[Derranged]

Hi guys and gals, small update from something we did with the Corvette a few weeks ago. I have a few things I could update but have no pictures to show of those yet (Mainly just a tidy up of the interior, Stereo and Speaker/Sub system). For now here's a picture of the new 6-Link, probably more interesting for some of you.

 

 

The normal rear-end has had some issues in the past with the C-Clip holding the half shaft breaks, causing one of the half-shafts to come out of the diff and pretty much rip through the rear and into your spine (Sounds like fun). Mainly happened with the 427/454 models on the drag strip from what I've heard.

 

[terrytek]

you

 

meh, too many people with jz swaps around me already. Plus, v8. And remember, to keep the swap legal it needs to be stock. The stock 2jz tt is really kinda boring power wis

you sure you can't fit bigger turbos to a 2jz?

[FuzzyYellow]

Usually the "hot" mark is just when its warmed up engine temp wise. If you wana get transmission fluid hot make it shift a lot. Force it to down shift by stabbing the throttle. Power brake it even. However it shouldn't be necessary. Honestly as long as its between the cold and hot area it should function fine.

 

thanks! that's good to know. it's also 10-30F here right now, and the Tundra has both a standalone, and an integrated transmission fluid cooler. 

[FuzzyYellow]

you

 

you sure you can't fit bigger turbos to a 2jz?

well, considering Jay can't put a turbo on his 370z at all, I would guess not.