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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
Go to solution Solved by techswede,
26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

5 hours ago, AlwaysFSX said:

I actually had to learn about all of the states when I was in elementary school, lol

I only know about North Dakota because of the oil boom and South Dakota because of Mt. Rushmore.

 

I don't know anything else about them lol. 

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2 hours ago, arnavvr said:

I only know about North Dakota because of the oil boom and South Dakota because of Mt. Rushmore.

 

I don't know anything else about them lol. 

That's it. That's all there is to know.

.

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8 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

Long shot, anyone ever owned an Isuzu Rodeo? I got one for misc tasks and have a few minor issues I"d like to solve.

Just look up Honda Passport, they're the same thing (for some years at least)

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13 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Just look up Honda Passport, they're the same thing (for some years at least)

I knew that, what I need to know is where the HVAC blower motor is. Mine seems to have a mind of its own, which is irritating in cold weather.

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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2 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

I knew that, what I need to know is where the HVAC blower motor is. Mine seems to have a mind of its own, which is irritating in cold weather.

Should be right under the glove box, where they normally are.

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6 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

I knew that, what I need to know is where the HVAC blower motor is. Mine seems to have a mind of its own, which is irritating in cold weather.

Describe the problem you're having with it. Sometimes blower motors can seem broken or have what seem like dead spots in the fan speed or inconsistent speeds, but it's actually a broken or failing resistor pack.  It's a board with a plug and a big heatsink on it somewhere in the air ducting. They're usually not much easier to change out, but it sucks replacing a blower motor assembly only to find you have the same issue. Diagnosis can be difficult without a shop manual and is impossible without a multimeter, but it'd be worth getting both for a car you plan on spinning wrenches on.

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5 hours ago, atxcyclist said:

Describe the problem you're having with it. Sometimes blower motors can seem broken or have what seem like dead spots in the fan speed or inconsistent speeds, but it's actually a broken or failing resistor pack.  It's a board with a plug and a big heatsink on it somewhere in the air ducting. They're usually not much easier to change out, but it sucks replacing a blower motor assembly only to find you have the same issue. Diagnosis can be difficult without a shop manual and is impossible without a multimeter, but it'd be worth getting both for a car you plan on spinning wrenches on.

I see.

Sometimes the HVAC controls don't turn on the blower. The buttons work (heat to cold, which vent to push air through, A/C button engages compressor) but no fan. If I get the Rodeo up to highway speeds (around here that's 70s) then try, the fan motor will then work normally, until I turn the car off. 

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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If the resistor is burnt it's probably because the blower motor is failing and drawing too much current, replace both parts to make sure it's fixed once. Your problem could be a blower but also check the connector to the motor, might just be that hitting bumps is making a weak connection to it or the connection is bad and it's barely getting enough power to spin.

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Massive pogs

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3 hours ago, Bitter said:

If the resistor is burnt it's probably because the blower motor is failing and drawing too much current, replace both parts to make sure it's fixed once. Your problem could be a blower but also check the connector to the motor, might just be that hitting bumps is making a weak connection to it or the connection is bad and it's barely getting enough power to spin.

Why do they use resistors for them things? PWM wasn’t a thing back then? Just seems wasteful 

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2 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Why do they use resistors for them things? PWM wasn’t a thing back then? Just seems wasteful 

Pretty much, some cars do use PWM but those fail too. Takes a bigass transistor to handle a constant 30 amp motor and potentially peaks of 40 amps. Has to be well heat sinked and cooled. Resistor boards are a lot cheaper, simpler, don't need software or microcontroller to run them. Way less expensive. Also needs less cooling and when it fails is cheaper to replace and simpler to make replacement parts of good quality.

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7 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Why do they use resistors for them things? PWM wasn’t a thing back then? Just seems wasteful 

Thing is way too old for a PWM transistor. Those started becoming normal in the late 2000s.

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On 2/2/2021 at 9:59 AM, chaozbandit said:

Massive pogs

Huh, I didn't think vettes were popular in Japan...

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2 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

Huh, I didn't think vettes were popular in Japan...

me too

maybe modern day japan is open to American cars (japan sees cars as inefficient on space and gas guzzlers)

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On 2/2/2021 at 8:24 PM, Bitter said:

Also needs less cooling

I think its the other way around, resistors generate a crap-ton of waste heat compared to a switching transistor*......

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8 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

Huh, I didn't think vettes were popular in Japan...

They're not, but Daigo wanted to drift something unique. D1GP still isn't super popular for it though.

 

Anyways it's an ex-GT300 racecar vette with a near 1:1 PWR.

 

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Hello Guys,

 

 

I have a quick troubleshooting question for you, My car is a 15 years old Daihatsu,

 

Its been almost a year that my car steers a tiny bit to the left when stopping and this happens even if I let the car stop on its own without applying the brakes. When coming to stop after the car steered to the left on its own and I start moving forward it steers a tiny bit to the right like there is torque twist but my car is far from powerful lol . This happens very rarely that I even forget when has the last time it happened, so I lived with it. Apart from this the car drives straight when you take your hand off the steering wheel.

 

Now its been like a month that the car vibrates when I apply the brakes ( You can feel it in the brake pedal and on the steering wheel ) and it seems like it brakes in steps of on-off-on-off and not smoothly. Again this issue is not that evident but it happens consistently every time. Also it doesn't seem to effect the braking distance but it does trigger my OCD.

 

Now I assume that the problem with the car steering left and right has to do with the ball joints in the steering arms and the issue with the vibration when braking is maybe wrapped brake disc rotors ( but the discs are 3 years old )

 

Could the 2 problems be linked and traced to just one cause ? what do you think ? Also can you please give me a very rough estimate of the repair cost so I know what to expect ?

 

 

Thank you for your time

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3 hours ago, ED 209 said:

Hello Guys,

 

 

I have a quick troubleshooting question for you, My car is a 15 years old Daihatsu,

 

Its been almost a year that my car steers a tiny bit to the left when stopping and this happens even if I let the car stop on its own without applying the brakes. When coming to stop after the car steered to the left on its own and I start moving forward it steers a tiny bit to the right like there is torque twist but my car is far from powerful lol . This happens very rarely that I even forget when has the last time it happened, so I lived with it. Apart from this the car drives straight when you take your hand off the steering wheel.

 

Now its been like a month that the car vibrates when I apply the brakes ( You can feel it in the brake pedal and on the steering wheel ) and it seems like it brakes in steps of on-off-on-off and not smoothly. Again this issue is not that evident but it happens consistently every time. Also it doesn't seem to effect the braking distance but it does trigger my OCD.

 

Now I assume that the problem with the car steering left and right has to do with the ball joints in the steering arms and the issue with the vibration when braking is maybe wrapped brake disc rotors ( but the discs are 3 years old )

 

Could the 2 problems be linked and traced to just one cause ? what do you think ? Also can you please give me a very rough estimate of the repair cost so I know what to expect ?

 

 

Thank you for your time

It could be several things. Possibly one of the front brakes is sticking on slightly causing the car to pull to the side, and has also caused the disc to heat up and warp. Or the issues could be unrelated. Possibly a wheel bearing, but that would likely be quite noisy. Might be as simple as the wheel alignment being out and your brakes being worn. Sorry I can't take a guess at the cost though.  

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i just found this forum, but to evreyone here, should i just blab about cars?

if yes boom

i have this question, what honda engine should i shove in a 1998 civic ex, it already has a d16y8, but im looking for mega revs and manual transmission?

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9 hours ago, jagdtigger said:

I think its the other way around, resistors generate a crap-ton of waste heat compared to a switching transistor*......

Maybe but they're easier to cool, just stick the wires in the air stream. The transistors need a big extruded aluminum heat sink that costs a lot of money to make vs a PCB with some little coiled wires on it. And the rest of the system overall is more expensive. The very super small gain in efficiency isn't worth the cost for fossil fuel vehicles, PWM blowers are usually only for cars with auto climate control where they need more than a few blower speeds and want to be able to softly fade blower speeds up and down to make it nicer.

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

transistors need a big extruded aluminum heat sink

Depends on the setup, as a liniear regulator yes. When used to drive the motor in PWM no.

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5 hours ago, jagdtigger said:

Depends on the setup, as a liniear regulator yes. When used to drive the motor in PWM no.

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Well go let Ford and Toyota know that I guess. This one heat sink is cast but whatever, still a much larger and more expensive part (times millions of vehicles) than something like this would be. Sure, you only get 4 or 5 blower speeds but that's not really that big of a deal.

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Most the ones I have replaced do have aluminum heatsinks. They get very hot. If you have it out of the heater box running and you touch it, you'll get burned.

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prob because it's only 12V(well really 14-15V I guess) and to move that much air at 12V you need a crap load of amps.

Electricity is weird. more voltage makes it easier to move energy around

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1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

prob because it's only 12V(well really 14-15V I guess) and to move that much air at 12V you need a crap load of amps.

Electricity is weird. more voltage makes it easier to move energy around

Yeah most blower motors run at like 20-25 amps, 30 amp fused. Thats 325 watts being controlled at 13 volts. A lot of power to PWM.

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