PSU Tier List [OLD]

[Mr.Meerkat]

1 minute ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

We leave it when editing other peoples'  

I know  

I also remember you saying how it's funny to sometimes read the edits people make so that's how I know you guys can see edits...

[comicsansms]

9 minutes ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

Hm, well they're supposed to always check the "Show that this message has been edited" box

Sometimes people forget.

I cannot remember which mod it was and where they did that, I have ideas but I am not going to check,  so I am not going to say. 

And honest it was something small, not worth getting upset about. 

[Megah3rtz]

46 minutes ago, wrathoftheturkey said:

Isn't a G2 only like ten bucks more?

when comparing 750w g1 to a 650w g2 yes

[Megah3rtz]

41 minutes ago, Comic_Sans_MS said:

@Megah3rtz, what are you actually using it for? 

gaming, overclocking, 24-48hr ontime. I'm going to replace my TX650 80+ bronze, with the TX650 going into a project build since it works fine. 

[STRMfrmXMN]

1 hour ago, Megah3rtz said:

when comparing 750w g1 to a 650w g2 yes

Honestly the G1 has mediocre vreg and should be overlooked. The GS/G3/G2/GQ are all better options.

[comicsansms]

2 hours ago, Megah3rtz said:

gaming, overclocking, 24-48hr ontime. I'm going to replace my TX650 80+ bronze, with the TX650 going into a project build since it works fine. 

I would probably get something like a GQ since is is about the same price as a NEX-G. I wouldn't worry about the warranty, it isn't likely to break.

[Energycore]

6 hours ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

That sounds like a good idea to me.  I'm not sure of any PSUs that are covered for longer than that.

 

8 hours ago, Megah3rtz said:

Worth buying a G1 if it has a 10yr warranty? 

The problems with the EVGA G1 have nothing to do with warranty and everything to do with voltage regulation. If you're gonna pay $75 for a PSU, you kind of expect it to not contribute to wear on hard drives and other components because of its lousy voltage control.

[Dabombinable]

1 hour ago, Energycore said:

 

The problems with the EVGA G1 have nothing to do with warranty and everything to do with voltage regulation. If you're gonna pay $75 for a PSU, you kind of expect it to not contribute to wear on hard drives and other components because of its lousy voltage control.

Which is why I say "RIP Corsair VS650". And my (third gen) CX850M will have that said about it when I replace it-despite the reviews and the way its supposed to behave, its voltage regulation is worse than my old cheap 250W PSU from 2004 (thin wires, light case, 1x SATA cable etc). And the less said about its coil whine the better.....

[Aereldor]

@STRMfrmXMN @Energycore The VS series also received a 'Grey' refresh, much like the CX series. What are your thoughts? Are they the new go-to budget power supplies?

 

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139198&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker, LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

[Stefan Payne]

PSU Tier Lists are just bogus!

What you Need is a System/Wattage List!

 

 

Withz graphics cards or CPUs nobody would do a Tier List because they know the differences between ie a Pentium and a core i7 CPU. Or whatever. Why do that for PSUs?!

With PSUs the difference between a Bronze unit and a Titanium one might be way harder to grasp, it's just a black box that does some power stuffy. How that's happening and what's the advantage of the more expansive PSU isn't easily seen - as is the case with CPUs or GPUs. Hell, even Mainboards...


And those Tier Lists are just Bogus. You don't need a Tiered list, you need something sorted by Price and what System it should power...

For a Single GPU/CPU System with something like a Core i5 or similar AMD processor or an RX480 or similar, you don't need a 1200W PSU, you need something around 300-550W. And than there is the pricerange.
You can get a Xilence Performance A+ with 430W for about 40 Bucks.
You can get a Bitfenix Whisper M 450/550 for about double that.
Or you can get a Dark Power Pro P11 for about 3,35 times the price of the Xilence (around 135€).
Or a 650W Seasonic Prime Titanium for just about 190€...

And How does a Tier List help me find "my power Supply"?! It just doesn't!

[comicsansms]

1 hour ago, Aereldor said:

@STRMfrmXMN @Energycore The VS series also received a 'Grey' refresh, much like the CX series. What are your thoughts? Are they the new go-to budget power supplies?

 

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139198&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker, LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

This is the 3rd time this has been talked about on this thread, (Summary, Jonny Gerow said the old products manager lined up the VS refresh, he doesn't like it and doesn't like that Corsair helped HEC since now HEC can actually start making good PSUs for other brands ) that said the 80Plus certificates of the VS400/500/600 have been finalised. 

 

Inside the VS400: (if the picture embeds) 

genknews.genkcdn.vn/thumb_w/600/2016/photo1480325158978-1480325158995.png

 

Source :

thoibao.today/paper/danh-gia-nguon-may-tinh-corsair-vs400-chi-400w-nhung-can-2-chiec-rx480-1415519

 

80PLUS certification :

http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CORSAIR_RPS0021 (CP-9020117) (VS400)_400W_ECOS 4743_Report.pdf

http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CORSAIR_RPS0022 (CP-9020118) (VS500)_500W_ECOS 4744_Report.pdf

http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/psu_reports/CORSAIR_RPS0023 (CP-9020119) (VS600)_600W_ECOS 4745_Report.pdf

[comicsansms]

21 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

PSU Tier Lists are just bogus!

What you Need is a System/Wattage List!

 

 

Withz graphics cards or CPUs nobody would do a Tier List because they know the differences between ie a Pentium and a core i7 CPU. Or whatever. Why do that for PSUs?!

With PSUs the difference between a Bronze unit and a Titanium one might be way harder to grasp, it's just a black box that does some power stuffy. How that's happening and what's the advantage of the more expansive PSU isn't easily seen - as is the case with CPUs or GPUs. Hell, even Mainboards...


And those Tier Lists are just Bogus. You don't need a Tiered list, you need something sorted by Price and what System it should power...

For a Single GPU/CPU System with something like a Core i5 or similar AMD processor or an RX480 or similar, you don't need a 1200W PSU, you need something around 300-550W. And than there is the pricerange.
You can get a Xilence Performance A+ with 430W for about 40 Bucks.
You can get a Bitfenix Whisper M 450/550 for about double that.
Or you can get a Dark Power Pro P11 for about 3,35 times the price of the Xilence (around 135€).
Or a 650W Seasonic Prime Titanium for just about 190€...

And How does a Tier List help me find "my power Supply"?! It just doesn't!

Wattage is not taken into account in this list, quality, build construction, component choice, fan and lots of metrics of preformance.

 

You don't need a Bitfenix Whisper, but a Bitfenix Whisper is objectively very good.

 

If your computer has a GPU in it tier 5 (tier 5 for something low end and low power like a RX 460) or above is recommended.

 

Wattage be ignored, 400W for really any single GPU and CPU computer, 650W for Dual GPU and single CPU. 

[79wjd]

2 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

PSU Tier Lists are just bogus!

What you Need is a System/Wattage List!

Except a tier list is very useful in determining whether the PSU you have chosen is shit or not. You certainly need to know how much wattage your system needs (or might need in the future), but it's also important to buy a PSU that isn't a literal fire hazard. It's also good to know how a PSU compares to other PSUs so you don't spend more money on a worse PSU or forgo a better PSU for $1 more. 

 

So, how to buy a PSU in five easy steps.

1. Determine the wattage you need/want.
2. Go to https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/ and sort by price
3. Look at the PSU tier list and find the first PSU from pcppartpicker that's in the appropriate tier for the system you are building and that is the required wattage.
4. See if there is a better PSU for a tiny bit more money / that is still in your budget. 
5. Buy. 

[Stefan Payne]

9 minutes ago, djdwosk97 said:

Except a tier list is very useful in determining whether the PSU you have chosen is shit or not. You certainly need to know how much wattage your system needs (or might need in the future), but it's also important to buy a PSU that isn't a literal fire hazard. It's also good to know how a PSU compares to other PSUs so you don't spend more money on a worse PSU or forgo a better PSU for $1 more. 

 

So, how to buy a PSU in five easy steps.

1. Determine the wattage you need/want.
2. Go to https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/ and sort by price
3. Look at the PSU tier list and find the first PSU from pcppartpicker that's in the appropriate tier for the system you are building and that is the required wattage.
4. See if there is a better PSU for a tiny bit more money / that is still in your budget. 
5. Buy. 

No, it's bullshit. 

Because you have to differentiate between certain usage cases. What is the PSU used for, how much money does one have, what enviroment is it used in and so on. You just can't put it in some useless 'Tier Lists'.

 

How it's really done is something you can see when you click on this link:

http://extreme.pcgameshardware.de/netzteile-und-gehaeuse/390781-empfehlenswerte-netzteile-2016-liste-mit-daten-und-preisen-stand-dezember-2016-a.html

 

 

 The factors you absolutely have to take into account are:
[*]price

[*]Efficiency

[*]hardware it has to power

 

It just makes NO sense to put a Bronze unit in the same category with a high end Titanium Power Supply!
The differences are so enormous when it comes to the units...

For example: A certain Bronze unit has a rather small capacity on +12V and also uses Nippon KY caps for +12V filtering.

The Titanium one has a couple of Polymer capacitors for +12V filtering and than 3 humongous wet electrolytics: two 3300µF and one 3900µF.

And 6 Polymer Capacitors (330µF), totally: 12,5mF
While the Bronze one has rather small 1500µF capacitors and they are Nippon KY.

 

 

And you really want to put both these units in the same pot?! SRYSLY?!

I've shown you an example on how one really coud do it and how it would make sense!
Because there is no 'best PSU', there are only decent choices for YOUR computer. 

 

And sometimes that can be a rather cheapish Xilence Performance A+, sometimes it makes more sense to buy the way more expansive one (like Dark Power Pro P11).

[79wjd]

22 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

No, it's bullshit. 

Because you have to differentiate between certain usage cases. What is the PSU used for, how much money does one have, what enviroment is it used in and so on. You just can't put it in some useless 'Tier Lists'.

 

How it's really done is something you can see when you click on this link:

http://extreme.pcgameshardware.de/netzteile-und-gehaeuse/390781-empfehlenswerte-netzteile-2016-liste-mit-daten-und-preisen-stand-dezember-2016-a.html

 

 

 The factors you absolutely have to take into account are:
[*]price

[*]Efficiency

[*]hardware it has to power

 

It just makes NO sense to put a Bronze unit in the same category with a high end Titanium Power Supply!
The differences are so enormous when it comes to the units...

For example: A certain Bronze unit has a rather small capacity on +12V and also uses Nippon KY caps for +12V filtering.

The Titanium one has a couple of Polymer capacitors for +12V filtering and than 3 humongous wet electrolytics: two 3300µF and one 3900µF.

And 6 Polymer Capacitors (330µF), totally: 12,5mF
While the Bronze one has rather small 1500µF capacitors and they are Nippon KY.

 

 

And you really want to put both these units in the same pot?! SRYSLY?!

I've shown you an example on how one really coud do it and how it would make sense!
Because there is no 'best PSU', there are only decent choices for YOUR computer. 

 

And sometimes that can be a rather cheapish Xilence Performance A+, sometimes it makes more sense to buy the way more expansive one (like Dark Power Pro P11).

You're right, you do. That's step one of the five steps to buying a PSU. A PSU tier list isn't telling people what they need to buy for their specific needs. All it's saying is how various PSUs compare. Is PSU X crap and likely to damage components and cause a fire? Is PSU Y a high quality PSU? Determining wattage you need is an entirely different step from determining the quality you need. 

 

Tier 6 and below is generally crap quality and can damage components and thus should basically be avoided for the most part -- the exception being basic office computers, in which case a T6 unit is good enough. Tier 5 is decent -- so it's adequate for a low end gaming build (RX 460/GTX1050). Tier 4 is good enough that it can be used in any mid-tier build (RX 480/GTX1060). And lastly, tier 3 and above is good enough for anything high quality (R9 290/GTX1070 and above).  

 

Actually no, efficiency is a largely irrelevant metric. Whether a PSU is 85% efficient or 92% efficient isn't that big of a deal. If you run a high powered gaming computer for 4 hours/day 365 days a year, it would generally take years to pay off the difference between an 80+ bronze and an 80+ gold PSU. If you're running a server 24/7 365, it will generally also take years to account for the total difference in electric costs. 

A typical home server will draw <100w the vast majority of the time. So, a home server that runs 24/7 365 days a year will require 100w*24hr*365days*$0.13kw/h/1000 = $114. If your PSU is 85% efficient (bronze) -- then it will cost you about $134/year. If your PSU is 92% efficient (gold) -- then it will cost you $124. Now, an 80+ gold PSU will typically cost $30~ more than an 80+ bronze PSU, so it will take three years just to break even.

A typical gaming build with a GTX1070 + 6700k will draw around 300w. 300w*4*365*.13/1000 = $57. A Bronze PSU will result in $67/year while a Gold PSU will result in $62/year. Now it will take about six years just to break even. 

 

Quality =/= efficiency and that is exactly why the Tier List doesn't take efficiency into account. Just because a PSU is 80+ Gold doesn't mean that it's built using higher quality components than an 80+ bronze PSU. For example, the 80+ Gold EVGA G1 is a piece of shit while the 80+ Bronze EVGA B2 is an excellent PSU. The G1 is built with low quality components and is far more likely to damage other hardware. 

 

[Stefan Payne]

2 hours ago, Comic_Sans_MS said:

Wattage is not taken into account in this list, quality, build construction, component choice, fan and lots of metrics of preformance.

 

You don't need a Bitfenix Whisper, but a Bitfenix Whisper is objectively very good.

 

If your computer has a GPU in it tier 5 (tier 5 for something low end and low power like a RX 460) or above is recommended.

 

Wattage be ignored, 400W for really any single GPU and CPU computer, 650W for Dual GPU and single CPU. 

1. WHY would you NOT take Wattage/Usage Case into account?! That's one of the most important values of a PSU!

this PSU just makes NO sense on a lower end PC with no dedicated graphics card.

On the other hand it can make sense to choose a PSU on the cheaper side (like this one), because the PC isn't used that much, on the other hand it can make sense to buy a more expansive unit, depending on the usage case and the computer it is used with!

Just putting them in Tiers makes NO sense and is just bullshit, that only does harm and no good. Especially since there is no 'the best PSU', only decent and bogus choices for YOUR computer. One of those is the ones I've mentioned here.

Another one would be one of these} in an X99 system...

The same goes for most 1x00W things, they are useless for most common usage cases, only in some really special cases those units make sense...

 

2. With what you are doing, you are putting some (still cheapish) 80plus Bronze units in a pot with 80plus Platinum and even Titanium units. While efficiency is the other rather important value of the PSU; besides the wattage. And _EVERY_ High End PSU these days is at least an 80plus gold unit! 

You have some values you just put under the carpet like the maximum combined capacity for the +12V filtering. Witrh a Seasonic Prime 650W it's about 12,5mF, with some Bronze units it's just fraction of the capacity! Why it's important?! Because the way modern components consume the power! And how afwful the way they consume the power is.

 

3. How do you know that one doesn't need a Bitfenix Whisper M? How do you know a Xilence Performance A+ is more than enough?!
Right, by _NOT_ Putting it in some useless Tier lists that do more harm than good an really help no one. You have to distinguish by Wattage/Used Computer and Price. Everything else just makes no sense!

Because even 'high quality' PSUs can be loud as hell. And cheaper ones can be rather silent.

 

4. Wattage is, besides the efficiency, the most important thing a PSU brings with it. So would you compare a 60bhp Toyota Corolla with a ~600bhp Ferrari? Why not? 
Because it just makes NO Sense! The Toyota Corolla sucks on the racetrack while the Ferrari sucks for "daily use". The same is true  for PSUs!
You just can NOT put a Seasonic Prime in the same Category as some random 80plus Bronze unit.

 

As for components:

Going by Components is just presumptuous!

The more I go into the PSU area, the less it makes sense to me to judge/value some specific components, because we don't know anything about the enviroment those components are used in!

We do NOT know how hot the capacitors get. So we can NOT know if the Nippon Chemicon KZH are needed and put in because they had to, according to their lifetime calculations or something else. We just have not enough information!
And a great design/layout that uses cheaper components like Teapo SC can inded last longer than a shitty design that uses Nippon CHemicon KZH capacitors. YOu just can not say anything just by looking at the capacitors!

Even if you look at the datasheet (and see that the Teapo SJ that are used for example in the Straight Power 10 Seriues and are equivalent to Nippon KZE series), it tells you nothing! Because you can not know the temperatures, the ripple current they have to live with and so on. Dave Jones (EEVBlog) has a Video about one electrolytic cap vs. multiple ones in Filtering with Heat Imaging. Very interesting that is.

 

So more capacitors are generally better, especially with modern components where you might want to have a higher capacitance on +12V...

 

It's not as easy as to put them in one pot and call it Tier whatever. That's just bullshit!

[STRMfrmXMN]

22 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

It's not as easy as to put them in one pot and call it Tier whatever. That's just bullshit!

K

[Stefan Payne]

3 minutes ago, djdwosk97 said:

You're right, you do. That's step one of the five steps to buying a PSU. A PSU tier list isn't telling people what they need to buy for their specific needs. All it's saying is how various PSUs compare. Is PSU X crap and likely to damage components and cause a fire? Is PSU Y a high quality PSU? Determining wattage you need is an entirely different step from determining the quality you need. 

 

Tier 6 and below is generally crap quality and can damage components and thus should basically be avoided for the most part -- the exception being basic office computers, in which case a T6 unit is good enough. Tier 5 is decent -- so it's adequate for a low end gaming build (RX 460/GTX1050). Tier 4 is good enough that it can be used in any mid-tier build (RX 480/GTX1060). And lastly, tier 3 and above is good enough for anything high quality (R9 290/GTX1070 and above).  

 

Actually no, efficiency is a largely irrelevant metric. Whether a PSU is 85% efficient or 92% efficient isn't that big of a deal. If you run a high powered gaming computer for 4 hours/day 365 days a year, it would generally take years to pay off the difference between an 80+ bronze and an 80+ gold PSU. If you're running a server 24/7 365, it will generally also take years to account for the total difference in electric costs. 

A typical home server will draw <100w the vast majority of the time. So, a home server that runs 24/7 365 days a year will require 100w*24hr*365days*$0.13kw/h/1000 = $114. If your PSU is 85% efficient (bronze) -- then it will cost you about $134/year. If your PSU is 92% efficient (gold) -- then it will cost you $124. Now, an 80+ gold PSU will typically cost $30~ more than an 80+ bronze PSU, so it will take three years just to break even.

A typical gaming build with a GTX1070 + 6700k will draw around 300w. 300w*4*365*.13/1000 = $57. A Bronze PSU will result in $67/year while a Gold PSU will result in $62/year. Now it will take about six years just to break even. 

 

Quality =/= efficiency and that is exactly why the Tier List doesn't take efficiency into account. Just because a PSU is 80+ Gold doesn't mean that it's built using higher quality components than an 80+ bronze PSU. For example, the 80+ Gold EVGA G1 is a piece of shit while the 80+ Bronze EVGA B2 is an excellent PSU. The G1 is built with low quality components and is far more likely to damage other hardware. 

 

1. 

• EVGA - GQ, B2, 550W and 650W GS

The GS series is not good at all, it's shit and should NOT be recomended because it has no OCP anywhere - even on minor rails! So when you overload minor rails, DC-DC module burns. Why is it Tier 2? Because JAPANESE CAPACITORS!!!111 That just does say shit.

 

2. And that's why those Lists are just garbage, because they are misleading. There is so much to differentiate different PSUs, like Protections, number or +12V rails, does the unit has any OCP at all or is it a 'Ture Single Rail' like the EVGA GS550 and 650W Version? Just because a unit has components that look good in the datasheet doesn't mean it's a good unit. Especially if it lacks protection.

 

3. Do you remember Morgan Freeman? Yes, the Black Actor. YOu remember what he said when he was asked how to stop racism? He answered: 'Stop Talking about it'. And that's what you should do here to. You should recomend good units!! And not list some not that great units... And that only these can damage the PC is just not true at all!
Units wIth shitty protectioon like the 'Tier 4' Thermaltake Paris ones or the mentioned EVGA GS ones can also damage your PC! And the sghit is just all over the place. The S12-II Bronze and everything based on them is just not something one should buy these days. In general you can say that you should stay away from cheapish Seasonic units! They just can't do budget PSUs, they only can do the good/industrial stuff so far. The same is true for Natec High Current Gamer. Why would you rate a group regulated unit above an independently regulated one? Especially if it isn't one of the best group regulated units?! 

For Example the be quiet Power Zone, why are they Tier 4 and the worse Antec High Current Gamer?? Same witrh the FSP Aurum Pro?! Why would one want to put them in the same category as the normal Aurum. Makes no sense.

So you get the point I'm going to? Just stop this Tier list Bullshit and start making a List of PSUs you'd recomend. Especially since the List is outdated and all over the place. It's just bad and look like it's stolen from another site...

 

Oh and the Antec True Power Classic is rather bad also. I'd have a Cougar LX anytime over this one. Because it's just way too loud at around 300W Primary and above. 

 

So what you said about the Tier List is Bogus as well, because it's all over the place. There are some Group regulated units in Tier 3 as well as perfectly fine DC-DC based ones in Tier 4.

And Efficiency IS relevant, because you can't buy a high end Bronze unit these days, it's even hard to get high end units with 'just' Gold efficiency....
The 'real' High End units start at 80plus Platinum these days. And it's an important factor in the cost of a PSU...

And electrical Power isn't as cheap as you've shown in your formula. There are Areas out there where 1kW/h costs 0,30€ or maybe even more. So you can almost double that...

 

ANd yes, there are way more good 80plus Gold units on the market these days than there are 80plus Bronze or plain 80plus ones, so yes, it (also) is kinda something for the quality. And a higher efficience unit usually cost a bitg more! Just take a look at Super Flower Leadex!
The 'normal' Gold ones are about 105€, the Platinum one cost about 150€, the Titanium ones are about 200€...
 

[79wjd]

22 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

1. 

• EVGA - GQ, B2, 550W and 650W GS

The GS series is not good at all, it's shit and should NOT be recomended because it has no OCP anywhere - even on minor rails! So when you overload minor rails, DC-DC module burns. Why is it Tier 2? Because JAPANESE CAPACITORS!!!111 That just does say shit.

 

2. And that's why those Lists are just garbage, because they are misleading. There is so much to differentiate different PSUs, like Protections, number or +12V rails, does the unit has any OCP at all or is it a 'Ture Single Rail' like the EVGA GS550 and 650W Version? Just because a unit has components that look good in the datasheet doesn't mean it's a good unit. Especially if it lacks protection.

 

3. Do you remember Morgan Freeman? Yes, the Black Actor. YOu remember what he said when he was asked how to stop racism? He answered: 'Stop Talking about it'. And that's what you should do here to. You should recomend good units!! And not list some not that great units... And that only these can damage the PC is just not true at all!
Units wIth shitty protectioon like the 'Tier 4' Thermaltake Paris ones or the mentioned EVGA GS ones can also damage your PC! And the sghit is just all over the place. The S12-II Bronze and everything based on them is just not something one should buy these days. In general you can say that you should stay away from cheapish Seasonic units! They just can't do budget PSUs, they only can do the good/industrial stuff so far. The same is true for Natec High Current Gamer. Why would you rate a group regulated unit above an independently regulated one? Especially if it isn't one of the best group regulated units?! 

For Example the be quiet Power Zone, why are they Tier 4 and the worse Antec High Current Gamer?? Same witrh the FSP Aurum Pro?! Why would one want to put them in the same category as the normal Aurum. Makes no sense.

So you get the point I'm going to? Just stop this Tier list Bullshit and start making a List of PSUs you'd recomend. Especially since the List is outdated and all over the place. It's just bad and look like it's stolen from another site...

 

Oh and the Antec True Power Classic is rather bad also. I'd have a Cougar LX anytime over this one. Because it's just way too loud at around 300W Primary and above. 

 

So what you said about the Tier List is Bogus as well, because it's all over the place. There are some Group regulated units in Tier 3 as well as perfectly fine DC-DC based ones in Tier 4.

 

-------------------

And Efficiency IS relevant, because you can't buy a high end Bronze unit these days, it's even hard to get high end units with 'just' Gold efficiency....
The 'real' High End units start at 80plus Platinum these days. And it's an important factor in the cost of a PSU...

And electrical Power isn't as cheap as you've shown in your formula. There are Areas out there where 1kW/h costs 0,30€ or maybe even more. So you can almost double that...

 

ANd yes, there are way more good 80plus Gold units on the market these days than there are 80plus Bronze or plain 80plus ones, so yes, it (also) is kinda something for the quality. And a higher efficience unit usually cost a bitg more! Just take a look at Super Flower Leadex!
The 'normal' Gold ones are about 105€, the Platinum one cost about 150€, the Titanium ones are about 200€...
 

I'll leave the first half to @STRMfrmXMN @Aniallation @Energycore @Comic_Sans_MS as they know a lot more about PSUs than I do. But there is more to the quality of a PSU than whether or not it's group regulated or not, or whether or not all the capacitors are Japanese caps or just the primary caps. I think the list should show why a PSU fell into a specific tier and/or why it didn't make it into a better tier (i.e. specifically listing what's good/bad about a PSU), but that would also make a list cumbersome to navigate and far too cumbersome to be useful. In regards to being useful, like the one you showed, the problem with factoring in price is that prices are constantly fluctuating.

 

 

EVGA B2 750 is far better than an EVGA G1 750. Sure there are areas where it's double, but there are also areas where it's far lower. The point is, efficiency won't be a big difference for most people. Even at double the cost of electricity, it would still take about three years for the average gamer to break even -- and that's assuming 4 hours/day 365 days a year, which is significantly above the average. 

 

Higher efficiency PSUs generally are of a higher quality because they cost more and thus they can be made better. But it's still not a rule that an 80+ Gold PSU will be better than an 80+ Bronze PSU. There are lower efficiency units that are better than higher efficiency ones. 

[Stefan Payne]

Yes, and there are some people out there who know way more than they do :rolleyes:

Anyway:
Group Regulated units are worse than DC-DC because as the name sugest, many voltages are regulated as a group. So when you have a modern System with almost no load at all on +5V/+3,3V and the Rest on the +12V, group regulated units can (and will) go out of spec. 

 

As for the EVGA B2-750: For god's sake, that's a downgraded Super Flower Golden Green Unit, just at Bronze Levels - and the exception...

And you don't seem to get it, do you?!
 

There are no high Quality 'low efficiency' units on the market!

Everything that can be considered High Quality is EOL for a long time. 

So if you want a decent unit, you have to go for Gold or better!

[STRMfrmXMN]

16 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

 

[STRMfrmXMN]

36 minutes ago, djdwosk97 said:

I'll leave the first half to @STRMfrmXMN @Aniallation @Energycore @Comic_Sans_MS as they know a lot more about PSUs than I do. But there is more to the quality of a PSU than whether or not it's group regulated or not, or whether or not all the capacitors are Japanese caps or just the primary caps. I think the list should show why a PSU fell into a specific tier and/or why it didn't make it into a better tier (i.e. specifically listing what's good/bad about a PSU), but that would also make a list cumbersome to navigate and far too cumbersome to be useful. In regards to being useful, like the one you showed, the problem with factoring in price is that prices are constantly fluctuating.

 

 

EVGA B2 750 is far better than an EVGA G1 750. Sure there are areas where it's double, but there are also areas where it's far lower. The point is, efficiency won't be a big difference for most people. Even at double the cost of electricity, it would still take about three years for the average gamer to break even -- and that's assuming 4 hours/day 365 days a year, which is significantly above the average. 

 

Higher efficiency PSUs generally are of a higher quality because they cost more and thus they can be made better. But it's still not a rule that an 80+ Gold PSU will be better than an 80+ Bronze PSU. There are lower efficiency units that are better than higher efficiency ones. 

I'm not gonna respond to him. He literally attacked me in PMs. I don't entertain them

[vanished]

5 minutes ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

I'm not gonna respond to him. He literally attacked me in PMs. I don't entertain them

Really?  Because the CoC applies to PMs if reported, which they always should be if there's a problem.

[Starelementpoke]

6 minutes ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

I'm not gonna respond to him. He literally attacked me in PMs. I don't entertain them

Dear god that guy has too much free time.

[STRMfrmXMN]

2 minutes ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

Really?  Because the CoC applies to PMs if reported, which they always should be if there's a problem.

I'll block him if it gets worse. For now I've got things all good