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We built a PC more efficient than a console!

Thanks to Seasonic for sponsoring this video!

 

Buy a Seasonic Power Supply:
On Amazon: https://geni.us/q4lnefC
On NewEgg: https://lmg.gg/8KV3S

 

Gaming’s not all about raw power – And if power consumption and your carbon footprint mean anything to you, maybe it’s time to rethink how you build your PC…

 

 

Buy a Ryzen 5 3600X:
On Amazon: https://geni.us/eb0G
On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KVpS

 

Buy a Noctua NH-U15S CHROMAX.BLACK:
On Amazon: https://geni.us/6cgX
On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KVp9

 

Buy an ASUS B450-F Gaming:
On Amazon: https://geni.us/cRhJ
On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KVpr

 

Buy a G.Skill TridentZ 16 GB DDR4-3200 memory kit:
On Amazon: https://geni.us/3H50j
On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KVpb

 

Buy a Samsung 970 EVO SSD:
On Amazon: https://geni.us/VNUbCj
On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KVpw

 

Buy a GeForce RTX 2060:
On Amazon: https://geni.us/umH8s3
On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KVpQ

 

Buy a Fractal Design Meshify C:
On Amazon: https://geni.us/KDV6zl
On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KVp6

 

Buy a Seasonic PRIME Ultra Titanium 650W PSU:
On Amazon: https://geni.us/L28TO8I
On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KVph

 

Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Linus Media Group.

Emily @ LINUS MEDIA GROUP                                  

congratulations on breaking absolutely zero stereotypes - @cs_deathmatch

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Now do that with partner cards instead of founders edition. You can´t buy those anymore from nvidia. Also i think AMD would do way better using a partner card.

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I couldn't find the link as well. I was wondering tho whether you could not only set a (real) custom fan curve and maybe even increase the power limit a bit (I think evga has a higher cap on that one too), but maybe you could even make full use of the LED.

In a GN teardown it was mentioned that the LED has in fact a connection that allows RGB and since the nvidia green is not a pure green I suspect that it is in fact a rgb LED but in the bios the color would be locked to match the nvidia green (which you can only turn on or of or pulsing etc via precision x1).

Not sure how it works and if a rgb connection port and has to be configured in the bios and if this would be the same for an evga and a FE bios but I would like to sync the color of the cards LED with the rest of my system too (as well as create a zero fan mode since the FE cooler is the loudest thing on idle in my system)

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"PC is more customizable, and more efficient than Console"

 

 

No sh*t :P

 

But seriously,  thats one efficient PC.

CPU: Intel i7 3930k w/OC & EK Supremacy EVO Block | Motherboard: Asus P9x79 Pro  | RAM: G.Skill 4x4 1866 CL9 | PSU: Seasonic Platinum 1000w Corsair RM 750w Gold (2021)|

VDU: Panasonic 42" Plasma | GPU: Gigabyte 1080ti Gaming OC & Barrow Block (RIP)...GTX 980ti | Sound: Asus Xonar D2X - Z5500 -FiiO X3K DAP/DAC - ATH-M50S | Case: Phantek Enthoo Primo White |

Storage: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD + WD Blue 1TB SSD | Cooling: XSPC D5 Photon 270 Res & Pump | 2x XSPC AX240 White Rads | NexXxos Monsta 80x240 Rad P/P | NF-A12x25 fans |

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Why wouldn't you use a 1660(classic, ti or super) based card? It doesn't have the RT/Tensor complexes and that would surely make it consume less power than a 2060.

 

On the HWUB review of the 1660Ti, it's seemingly capable of running SOTR at 60fps in 1440p so surely it'd do fine in 1080p. And the total system power consumption is also 65W lower than on the 2060 system. So this RTX-On choice is quite puzzling to me.

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OMG what a fail!
You didn't show the system power consumption before the optimization!
Really?
That is what I was most interested in...

On other matters, does anyone know how to undervolt RTX series (I have a 2060 Super)? Since I think it has been removed as a possibility in MSI Afterburner.

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Alright cool so where are the base power draw before undervolting/downclocking? Where is the power draw if you were to oc/max out that very same build? That should have really been in the video along side comparing the power draw from the console.

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3 hours ago, MetalGappy said:

Can we get a moment?

 

 

pooranthony.jpg

*trumpet... more trumpets*

 

i think the anzac theme thingy is going in his head atm

✨FNIGE✨

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2 hours ago, Schild0r said:

I couldn't find the link as well. I was wondering tho whether you could not only set a (real) custom fan curve and maybe even increase the power limit a bit (I think evga has a higher cap on that one too), but maybe you could even make full use of the LED.

In a GN teardown it was mentioned that the LED has in fact a connection that allows RGB and since the nvidia green is not a pure green I suspect that it is in fact a rgb LED but in the bios the color would be locked to match the nvidia green (which you can only turn on or of or pulsing etc via precision x1).

Not sure how it works and if a rgb connection port and has to be configured in the bios and if this would be the same for an evga and a FE bios but I would like to sync the color of the cards LED with the rest of my system too (as well as create a zero fan mode since the FE cooler is the loudest thing on idle in my system)

You can definitely set the Geforce RTX logo to any colour and also do lighting effects like breathing as I've seen it done on a video showcasing it, they flashed the GPU with an EVGA bios and used their lighting software to do it.

 

I would love them to share a link on how to flash the bios as I'd love a step by step guide as I've been after flashing my bios on my RTX 2060 super for a long time as the 41% idle fan speed annoys the hell out of me. Guess I'll wait and hope for a response. :)

 

 

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Quote

But all that power that your thousand watt power supply is sucking up...

Ummm I doubt that. using the 1000 watt PSU is a great way of emphasizing it however even if one has a 1000 watt psu in their computer or if their computer has a recommended 1000 watts of power the likely consumption is 1/3-1/2 that. Even under full load (both gpus and cpu all at 100%) I can't hit 500 watts with my current setup even tho my approx requirement is over 500 watts, currently (because it's bugging me this much) I'm sitting at 160~ watts dual monitor 7 HDDs, and countless fans running. While 100 watts in a game is impressive you are also using a newer gpu and cpu that I am not so I do expect them to run on less power to performance.

 

You're also not tricking me with your top 10 anime betrayals...

 

Everyone qucik watch the real top 10 anime betrayals before it gets out done by a cheap Chinese knockoff

 

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3 hours ago, brncrsh said:

You didn't show the system power consumption before and after the optimization!
Really?
That is what I was most interested in...

i know right, the most basic of any kind of research and dont bother with a killowatt meter at the very least

home depot and $19 in linus currency - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kill-A-Watt-Electricity-Monitor-P4400/202196386

 

 

 

 

 

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44 minutes ago, amdorintel said:

i know right, the most basic of any kind of research and dont bother with a killowatt meter at the very least

home depot and $19 in linus currency - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kill-A-Watt-Electricity-Monitor-P4400/202196386

Actually something like this would likely be more useful tho the english instructions are not.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kuman-Electricity-Monitor-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/

 

I use a Belkin unit that was $35 back in the day (same price as a kill, just easier to find and gave more details) for my computer, I use the above for testing electric pull/costs and or battery capacity.

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You've got the Efficiency curve for 230v and 115v the other way around. It's more efficient on 230v. 

 

Would have liked to see the power draw on default settings too. 

 

Edit: nevermind, i didn't understand what linus said.

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Normally I wouldn't bother pointing this out, since it has only a minor influence, but since you even unplugged the power and hdd leds to save power, here it is;
If you are using the 650 W model of the PSU, you are not even reaching 20% load under your "max load" that you defined. WIth a lower wattage model of the same series, you could reach a better point in the PSU's efficiency curve. It might also pay off to use a 240V outlet (I heard that some buildings in Canada do have such outlets for high power appliances, for example in the kitchen) to benefit from the better efficiency curve.

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Hello, Did you guys tried to use chill on AMD and put the Powetarget down without messing with voltage. On my vega I can get it really eficient with just chill and powertarget down. 

 

Give it a look :)

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Will be interesting to see how performance per watt of this compares to the new APUs and Laptop parts coming out in the next year or so. 
 

17 hours ago, alphaLONE said:

Why wouldn't you use a 1660(classic, ti or super) based card? It doesn't have the RT/Tensor complexes and that would surely make it consume less power than a 2060.

 

On the HWUB review of the 1660Ti, it's seemingly capable of running SOTR at 60fps in 1440p so surely it'd do fine in 1080p. And the total system power consumption is also 65W lower than on the 2060 system. So this RTX-On choice is quite puzzling to me.

I agree this could of been interesting, but i can think of two things

Apples to apples (relative) performance of AMD vs Nvidea, 5500s still aren't available, also since they cut the clock speeds so heavily they are probably trying to maintain reasonable performance by complimenting it with decent number of Shading units/Cuda cores, as 1408 Cuda/Shader instead of 2300-2500ish parts at such low Mhz would probably run like poo, but for same wattage maybe having a bit more Mhz at same power draw would of been better in alot of titles.  (thus negating the point of what they did)

Actually ya that would of been cool to see,performance for same wattage slight undervolt 1660 Super vs  heavy undervolt 2060S(more cuda, lower mhz) in multiple titles

20 hours ago, pApA^LeGBa said:

Now do that with partner cards instead of founders edition. You can´t buy those anymore from nvidia. Also i think AMD would do way better using a partner card.

Saying this as a 5700 AIB owner here, so try to take my word as not being a Nvidea shill, but I'm fairly sure the guy who invented Cuda Cores (name slips my mind rightnow) way back in the day still works at Nvidea, specifically increasing power efficiency for professional (Deep Learning, Compute etc) type cards.  Radeon at times has had way better cards for the $, but almost always Nvidea has maintained leadership in regards to performance per watt, with a few exceptions.  Navi caught up alot in this regard but are still behind here, even on 7nm.

Also, all AIBs are the same basic architecture and die, lesser VRM if any real change (reference PCB is actually best basis for LN2 or custom waterblock + overclocking), i don't see how AIB could of helped them here unless the blower fan had to stay on and somehow sucked like 40W lol

 

10 hours ago, Eternally1234 said:

@GabenJr the world awaits the bios flash link.

google techpowerup + card he mentioned name of, guessing they didnt link it so they wouldn't be liable if somebody messes up system and doesn't know how, or cant fix, but maybe they just forgot

 

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They probably used NVFlash and this BIOS, which they showed in the video

 

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/207297/evga-rtx2060-6144-181216

 

NVFlash can be found here too:
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/nvidia-nvflash/

 

I don't know if nvidia BIOS flashing is easier than AMD because for AMD, it can depend on the memory brand of the card and also you can risk bricking your card. Do more research before trying

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Would it be possible to post the settings you used for clock and voltage?

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