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does psu matters to u ?

BudgetBoy
By BudgetBoy
in Power Supplies
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does psu tiers matters to you ? and how ? if u run your system in stock does it matter to u to get tier 1 or 2 psu ? or no ? and why ? :D

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I don't give AF about "tiers". All that matters is if it's 80+ bronze or higher and not the size of a small infant.

 

(Compact Silverstone Strider 550w platinum unit btw)

 

 

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Just now, Mooshi said:

I don't give AF about "tiers". All that matters is if it's 80+ bronze or higher and not the size of a small infant.

how bout some 80 plus for stock systems :D

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1 minute ago, BudgetBoy said:

how bout some 80 plus for stock systems :D

Bronze should the bare minimum tbh. The pc I built for my GFs mom has my old spare Corsair unit and it's powering a kaby Pentium lol

 

 

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I'm running a tier 4 PSU in my system - the corsair CX750M... its 80+ bronze, been running in an overclocked system for about 1.5 years, and I've not had anything erupt in a blaze of glory.........

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11 minutes ago, BudgetBoy said:

does psu tiers matters to you ? and how ? if u run your system in stock does it matter to u to get tier 1 or 2 psu ? or no ? and why ? :D

It depends on your system. Personally, I recommend tier 4/5 for low power system and at least tier 3 for system with a dedicated GPU.

 

Efficiency doesn't matter much. When selecting a PSU, wattage and build quality are the priorities.

 

Oh yes, don't cheap on PSU.

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7 minutes ago, NotTayyeb said:

I'm running a tier 4 PSU in my system - the corsair CX750M... its 80+ bronze, been running in an overclocked system for about 1.5 years, and I've not had anything erupt in a blaze of glory.........

me either im running a corsair vs550w in stock and nothing happens

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I have a bronze and has way more supply than I have needed. But I have the door open for a new build/ Sli config currently I built this thing years ago and the Power supply will carry me right on too my next build. Its a bronze In Win commander II. Had for maybe 6 years now, they just get dusty Even a few thunder storms. However I guess the problem with bronze is.. Reliability?

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1 minute ago, ZM Fong said:

It depends on your system. Personally, I recommend tier 4/5 for low power system and at least tier 3 for system with a dedicated GPU.

 

Efficiency doesn't matter much. When selecting a PSU, wattage and build quality are the priorities.

 

Oh yes, don't cheap on PSU.

@STRMfrmXMN

i wonder why most people didnt know this

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Get a good PSU. Even for a budget system, I'd pay $30 more for a better PSU just for that peace of mind. 

8 minutes ago, NotTayyeb said:

I'm running a tier 4 PSU in my system - the corsair CX750M... its 80+ bronze, been running in an overclocked system for about 1.5 years, and I've not had anything erupt in a blaze of glory.........

Tier 3-4 isn't bad, below 4 for a system with a GPU is bad imho

idk

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2 minutes ago, Droidbot said:

Get a good PSU. Even for a budget system, I'd pay $30 more for a better PSU just for that peace of mind. 

Tier 3-4 isn't bad, below 4 for a system with a GPU is bad imho

in my time corsair vs series is tier 3 but now its tier 6 T.T

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Just now, BudgetBoy said:

in my time corsair vs series is tier 3 but now its tier 6 T.T

it was never tier 3, it's a mediocre PSU meant for systems without PSUs.. 

idk

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When I need something that just works within a tight budget: I don't have many fuc*s to spend.
With my current system, I just needed a low-end PSU with an 2x4 pin (or 8 pin) for my mobo, so I went out and bought the cheapest at my local pc parts store. It's weight is alot lower then the previous 300 watt PSU. (currently sporting 550 watt I think, not sure)

 

If I'd buy myself better parts, I would want a fancy PSU with modular cables. I don't think I would look that hard at the brand or "tier". Never had a PSU blow up my pc, and usually had a cheap/generic PSU.

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When it just going to cost you a 20-40 more bucks to get something that works really well and is modular, why the heck not get it?

If you want to reply back to me or someone else USE THE QUOTE BUTTON!                                                      
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To be honest, the only time I wouldn't upgrade a PSU to something from a trusted quality manufacturer is if I just bought a complete system from a big-box store or supermarket (or somewhere similar) and wasn't going to open the case at all...even then I'd be concerned about it potentially catching fire.

The PSU is definitely not a place to try and save money. When I was new to all of this I upgraded a graphics card and took out a whole system including my forensic class CRT that literally had it's image melt off the screen in front of my eyes...but it could have been worse, it cold have caught fire.  

"I try to put good out into the world...that way I can believe it's out there." --CKN                  “How people treat you is their karma; how you react is yours.” --Wayne Dyer            

[Needs Updating] My PC: i5-10600K @TBD / 32GB DDR4 @4000MHz / Z490 AORUS Elite AC / Titan RTX / Samsung 1TB 960 Evo / EVGA SuperNova 850 T2

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11 minutes ago, Dutch-stoner said:

...so I went out and bought the cheapest at my local pc parts store. It's weight is alot lower then the previous 300 watt PSU...

...that's not always a good thing  lol :D  


 

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Gennaro: "Then it's expensive, put it back."

 

"I try to put good out into the world...that way I can believe it's out there." --CKN                  “How people treat you is their karma; how you react is yours.” --Wayne Dyer            

[Needs Updating] My PC: i5-10600K @TBD / 32GB DDR4 @4000MHz / Z490 AORUS Elite AC / Titan RTX / Samsung 1TB 960 Evo / EVGA SuperNova 850 T2

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I know, I tryed to make it sound bad. A light weight PSU will have fewer components to produce the same output. And I don't care that PSU X is 5 years older then PSU Y. If I look at 2 PSU's of the same amount of watts, I will look for the weight. I would pick the heavy one over the lightweight PSU all day long.

 

*Unless they just added a piece of lead to add moar weight. They did that in the past, with several of the first gen optical consumer mice.

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6 minutes ago, Dutch-stoner said:

I know, I tryed to make it sound bad. A light weight PSU will have fewer components to produce the same output. And I don't care that PSU X is 5 years older then PSU Y. If I look at 2 PSU's of the same amount of watts, I will look for the weight. I would pick the heavy one over the lightweight PSU all day long.

 

*Unless they just added a piece of lead to add moar weight. They did that in the past, with several of the first gen optical consumer mice.


Do they really do that to fool people? I've not heard of that...my mouse has weights I can add to suit my usage, are you sure it wasn't that type of thing?

But yeah...sorry I thought you were serious. :P

But yeah...for the record:
 

The PSU is definitely not a place to try and save money. When I was new to all of this I upgraded a graphics card and took out a whole system including my forensic class CRT that literally had its image melt off of the screen in front of my eyes...but it could have been worse: it cold have caught fire.  

...I got it home from the store, popped it open, stuck in a new graphics card (they do say "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing") launched Shadow of Chernobyl, and my monitor melted.

"I try to put good out into the world...that way I can believe it's out there." --CKN                  “How people treat you is their karma; how you react is yours.” --Wayne Dyer            

[Needs Updating] My PC: i5-10600K @TBD / 32GB DDR4 @4000MHz / Z490 AORUS Elite AC / Titan RTX / Samsung 1TB 960 Evo / EVGA SuperNova 850 T2

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29 minutes ago, GuruMeditationError said:

To be honest, the only time I wouldn't upgrade a PSU to something from a trusted quality manufacturer is if I just bought a complete system from a big-box store or supermarket (or somewhere similar) and wasn't going to open the case at all...even then I'd be concerned about it potentially catching fire.

The PSU is definitely not a place to try and save money. When I was new to all of this I upgraded a graphics card and took out a whole system including my forensic class CRT that literally had it's image melt off the screen in front of my eyes...but it could have been worse, it cold have caught fire.  

Well, with a lot of OEM systems the PSU is usually made by a good provider like Delta or Flextronics. 

idk

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4 minutes ago, Droidbot said:

Well, with a lot of OEM systems the PSU is usually made by a good provider like Delta or Flextronics. 

Personally I just wouldn't risk it though; I've been bitten by that before and it's not something I'd want to risk again.

"I try to put good out into the world...that way I can believe it's out there." --CKN                  “How people treat you is their karma; how you react is yours.” --Wayne Dyer            

[Needs Updating] My PC: i5-10600K @TBD / 32GB DDR4 @4000MHz / Z490 AORUS Elite AC / Titan RTX / Samsung 1TB 960 Evo / EVGA SuperNova 850 T2

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Yep, I've seen my fair share of unstable systems (even at under clocked speeds) from cheap PSU's. I've even had one blow up on me.  My advice for a bog stock system is fork out the extra $30 for a better unit. Never ever use the PSU that comes in the cheaper cases, brands like hairong, shaw, VIP etc.  your just playing Russian roulette with your system.

Grammar and spelling is not indicative of intelligence/knowledge.  Not having the same opinion does not always mean lack of understanding.  

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2 minutes ago, mr moose said:

Yep, I've seen my fair share of unstable systems (even at under clocked speeds) from cheap PSU's. I've even had one blow up on me.  My advice for a bog stock system is fork out the extra $30 for a better unit. Never ever use the PSU that comes in the cheaper cases, brands like hairong, shaw, VIP etc.  your just playing Russian roulette with your system.

Shaw, holy shit - they're super sketchy.. I almost bought one of their cases when I was a noob thinking 'hey, there's a free 480W PSU with purchase!'

 

 

idk

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Just now, Droidbot said:

Shaw, holy shit - they're super sketchy.. I almost bought one of their cases when I was a noob thinking 'hey, there's a free 480W PSU with purchase!'

 

 

I think we've all been there before.    I did the math once on a $30 case that included a 400W supply, after shipping taxes, profit (for wholesaler and retail) the unit would have had about $2 worth of parts in it.

Grammar and spelling is not indicative of intelligence/knowledge.  Not having the same opinion does not always mean lack of understanding.  

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2 minutes ago, mr moose said:

I think we've all been there before.    I did the math once on a $30 case that included a 400W supply, after shipping taxes, profit (for wholesaler and retail) the unit would have had about $2 worth of parts in it.

Thankfully I wised up to how shit it actually is. Got myself a M12II and a 250D for about triple the price, but who cares :P I mainly wised up cause of the video below:

 

 

idk

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