KaminKevCrew

No.

Behringer makes some decent stuff that's pretty affordable. Yamaha also makes some good stuff, and I'd probably trust them more though for feature parity they are generally going to be more expensive than behringer. That being said, you don't exactly need a crazy mixer to get this done - you shouldn't need anything more than a basic one. 
 
I think that will only work if your headset isn't USB though. 
 
e.g.
PC1 => mixer,
PC2 => mixer,
mixer => headphones
 

Really the only other way to do this would be to invest in a mixer, and just mix the two sources together, but mixers are definitely more expensive than a cable.

You probably have surround enabled. When you're listening to surround audio, dialogue typically comes through the center channel. Try setting your audio to stereo - that might help.

I'm still using what is essentially the first computer I ever built. It's a core i7 3770k, and honestly I haven't really felt the need to upgrade since then. I've upgraded from a 256gb OCZ Vertex 3 to a Samsung 840(?) EVO 1TB drive, and since I built it I've changed the GPU a few times. I'm currently using a 980Ti though originally, it had 2 670s. 
 
Other than changing out a dying drive or two, it's really the same PC it was when I built it some 6 odd years ago. I really only play games at 1080p, and I rarely do that. I do some CAD stuff, but it's not particularly demanding (hell, my Dell XPS 9550 can handle the CAD work I do) so mostly, my PC just kind of sits around these days. That being said, when I do use it I don't exactly feel like I'm wanting for performance, so I've broadly left it alone. 
 
I'm only recently thinking of building a new rig with Threadripper, but that would be more for fun and so that this rig could be repurposed into a home server. Other than that though, I feel no real need to upgrade to anything because this thing is plenty fast for everything I do.

If you like the sound signature of the M40X, you probably won't like the AD700X/1000X. If I were you, I'd probably replace the pads on your existing cans.
 
If you don't have any meaningful interference/distortion coming from whatever source you're using, and you get enough volume, there probably isn't any point for you to get an amp or DAC.

700X/1000X will probably be what you're looking for as far as classical goes. I don't really know what to recommend for rock/punk, as I don't really listen to those genres. The indie that I tend to listen to is generally more acoustic focused, so if that's similar to what you listen to, then the 700X/1000X will probably be up your alley for that too. Be aware that they are going to have A LOT less low end though.
 
As for an amp/DAC.. I still probably wouldn't get one. Neither of those headphones really need all that much power to drive, and you're not likely to notice a difference worth mentioning for any amount of money through an amp/DAC with those cans anyway.

If you like the sound signature of the M40X, you probably won't like the AD700X/1000X. If I were you, I'd probably replace the pads on your existing cans.
 
If you don't have any meaningful interference/distortion coming from whatever source you're using, and you get enough volume, there probably isn't any point for you to get an amp or DAC.

The motors should not spin when you plug in the battery. They should make a tone, but not spin.
 
If the throttle is responsive in the input tab then you've soldered the RX correctly. Perhaps you haven't properly soldered the signal wires for the ESC's? Other than that, it could be that your gyro setting is too strict, which will disallow the arming function.

The motors should not spin when you plug in the battery. They should make a tone, but not spin.
 
If the throttle is responsive in the input tab then you've soldered the RX correctly. Perhaps you haven't properly soldered the signal wires for the ESC's? Other than that, it could be that your gyro setting is too strict, which will disallow the arming function.

Atom amp and OL DAC for me personally if I had to pick one or the other of those. Unfortunately, none of those meet my needs so I wouldn't be able to use them anyway.
 

It could be the output impedance of your source.
 

I use Creative X7 as my DAC and headphone amp for my Beyer T1. Line out from the X7 goes to my Onkyo A-905FX2 speaker amp powering the Onkyo D-152E bookshelves.

I only speak English. My wife speaks Spanish, English , Creole, French, and Russian. So I can tell how angry she is with me by which language she curses me in. 

One of the compounds commonly used in vape juice to make it have that thick viscosity is the same compound used in movie theater butter. The funny thing about that compound is that it's totally safe to eat, but inhaling it is actually extremely hazardous.

I like to stand outside when it's cold and pretend I'm smoking as the water vapor in my breath condenses before my eyes.
 
It's cheaper than buying a vape pen and you get the same effect.

For sure. I've owned this PC since new, but honestly, I just don't feel the need to upgrade. It still runs all of my games just fine, and does everything I ask it to just fine. 
 
I've been thinking about doing a threadripper build for a while, but this machine is still plenty capable, so I just don't feel the need to upgrade (especially since I don't game all that often anyway, and I never stream.)
 
Maybe once I get further into my uni's CAD programs I'll feel the need to upgrade, in which case I'll just turn this rig into my home server. We'll see.
 

You are absolutely correct. 
 
It's been a while since I've been terribly involved in audio, so I apologize for my haste in using different FR graphs from people using differing weightings and measurement gear!

I'd say you should grab a Schiit Magni 3 at the very least. Depending on how clean the audio out of your onboard is, you can likely just plug that straight into the magni with a 3.5mm TRS to dual RCA cable, but if not you can also grab the Modi - together they're $200, and they're a great way to get into quality audio without breaking the bank.

There are few noteworthy brands, but yeah, EMI issues are what keep me from using my soundcards that I do like these days.  Hissing, popping, coil whine etc... yucky.

Zeos is not a reliable audio reviewer at all. He is associated only with newbies and he is vastly incorrect in most of his videos. Anyone with any experience will tell you how bad a of a reviewer he is.

That's true, but those are the same exact things as are on Cherry MX switches of the PCB mount variety. There's nothing different about the way that Gateron switches are mounted. 
 
Those two pins can also be clipped off if the PCB doesn't support PCB mounted switches.

For just $18, maybe you should take a look at it.
 

I happen to have a full TKL worth of Invyr Pandas that I installed into another board a while ago. Unfortunately, I generally prefer clicky switches, so I'm planning to get a bunch of either Zealistotles, or Box Jade/Box Navy switches and use those for my board, but I have so many other projects I need to get to first that I'm not going to be doing that any time soon, haha!

It's a Hubble Mira custom board. I bought this one second hand for $600 USD.
 
Edit: And it was worth every penny.