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About Hackentosher

  • Title
    Electron Choreography
  • Birthday Mar 06, 2000

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Origin

Profile Information

  • Location
    College Party Town
  • Gender
  • Interests
    3D printing, Drones, Electronics, PCB design, Embedded Systems
  • Biography
  • Occupation
    Professional Electrical Engineering Student, Literally paid to play with electronics


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    XPS 15 9570
  • RAM
    16gb Crucial something
  • GPU
    Windforce gtx 970 in a Razer Core + GTX1050ti max q
  • Case
    XPS 15 9570
  • Storage
    WD SN550 1tb + too many external hard drives
  • PSU
    XPS 15 9570
  • Display(s)
    LG 29WL500-B, XPS 15 9570
  • Cooling
    XPS 15 9570
  • Keyboard
    Quickfire Rapid (MX Blue)
  • Mouse
  • Sound
    XPS 15 9570, Airpods
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • Laptop
    XPS 15 9570

Recent Profile Visitors

50,138 profile views
  1. This is really cool and handy https://www.labgopher.com/



    1.   Show previous replies  2 more
    2. sub68


      ok makes sense

    3. Letgomyleghoe


      *see's vast selections of servers that I have no genuine use for"
      I don't need it, I don't need, I don't need it. 
      Arnold Day (arnolddaya7m) | Spongebob i need it, Spongebob memes, Memes

    4. Prodigy_Smit


      I was going to report as bot spam but then I saw the username.

  2. Another thing we don't know is how much current (and thus power) the strip is expecting. A couple amps is probably fine, but beefy LEDs can pull tens of amps. Practically speaking, I don't think I've seen a 5m LED strip pull more than about 2A (24W at 12v) so you're probably fine.
  3. What voltage is the power supply? 72W only tells you the maximum power that supply can deliver, not the voltage it delivers it at.
  4. Are you only looking for ender 3 failures?
  5. If I'm understanding correctly, the first one. Each R resistor should be connected to the R pin, each G resistor to G pin and B resistor to B pin. Your usage of "combine" is confusing me. Can you draw the circuit you're thinking of?
  6. yes yes, but you'll also need a common ground for the converter to work. Electricity needs a way to come in and a way to come out. no. Looking at the datasheet of the LED you linked, we connect 4v to pin 2, then the resistors to the other pins. I guess then you would connect the anodes of each LED to R G and B respectively, that should give you control over each color. You need the resistors in between each anode and RGB pin because the resistors limit the current going through each LED so it'll keep them from blowing up. If you connected 4v directly across an LED it would try to p
  7. okay this is different from what I expected. I thought you were just trying to use this for powering something else. Looking at that part, I notice that each LED has a different forward voltage drop. Sooo I guess the way to do it would be something like this. This isn't exactly how it would work, but the diodes and series resistors are correct if you set the buck converter to 4v. I plugged 4v, forward current, and the forward voltage drops of each of the individual diodes in that package. So you'd need to connect a resistor to each annode of the LED and connect the cathode into 4v.
  8. So you want to drop 9v across a resistor? At 3 amps, P=IV tells us that 27W will be dissipated by that resistor. You'll need a bigass resistor to do that and it's horribly inefficient. Idk what you need 3v for, but look for a step down module on Ebay that can handle the voltage and current you're looking for. Something like this should work https://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596S-DC-DC-3A-Buck-Adjustable-Step-down-Power-Supply-Converter-Module-Arduino/224156800207?hash=item3430c954cf:g:-agAAOSw-JlfX3he
  9. The 80 is for sure, but it's certainly good enough for basic soldering. The 100 is a beast when powered by 24V (6s lipo) and can supply up to 65W. I've spent a lot of time with the 100s, the main issue I have with them is the default firmware isn't great (but you can fix that) and that it doesn't come with a stand. You absolutely need somewhere to put your iron when you put it down. Looking past those pitfalls, it's a great little iron that is able to do fine SMD work up to heavy power electronics (I think the largest I'd go is two 14awg wires, beyond that the tiny stock tip struggles to deliv
  10. I've heard really good things about the Ksger, once you fix its case grounding it's supposed to be a pretty decent iron due to the T12 tips more directly heating the tip of the iron. I would also consider a TS100 or the TS80 with power delivery, they should be around $50 not including a power supply IIRC.
  11. I've read the Audioengine A5+ are pretty good, but it comes down to your own ears. Try to listen to them yourself before you buy if possible.
  12. Measuring the voltages wont tell us much. Try to figure out where each of those wires goes using the resistance or continuity mode on your meter. If the only thing that's on the button board is the buttons (and maybe some pullup/down resistors) then you can probably touch some of those wires to ground (assuming active low logic, touch to 3.3v if otherwise) to toggle the buttons. Can you attach a picture of the board that connector plugs in to?
  13. Old 3d printers commonly used a mega with the ramps 1.4 shield. It works fine, but the mechanics of a printer is way harder and will probably cost you more than just $150. I’d spend the extra $100 to get an ender 3
  14. 970 Evo is just about the best, but I really like my WD SN550. It's way cheaper and I haven't noticed anything but superb performance on my XPS 15. Watch this video and you quickly realize that the most ballin' ssd on the market isn't really that important beyond capacity and longevity.