RAS_3885

No,  1/4" is huge compared to 3.5mm.

Looking at it again, I think you're right in not both being the same size.
Although I don't think either is a 0.25" (6.35mm) jack though. I think the right one is a 3 pole 3.5mm TRS connector and the left one is a 4 pole 2.5mm TRRS connector.

Maybe it's the picture, but it doesn't look like it has a 3.5 mm connection at both ends. Looks like the end on the right is larger, maybe a 1/4" connector?

I'm not a streamer, but for people to be able to help you should provide more information such as your full PC specs and streaming setup, streaming bitrate, settings etc.

Can you split the charger brick plastic housing? Sometimes there's extra strain relief wire inside you might be able to use. Regardless, if you decide to fix I'd recommend soldering over some sort of twist connector. 
 
Ultimately, it might just be best to replace the charger.

well then buy it, is there something you need help with?

I wouldn't attempt to just twist these together...
You will be better off just getting a new charger. Incorrectly repairing that is definitely a fire hazard

Can you split the charger brick plastic housing? Sometimes there's extra strain relief wire inside you might be able to use. Regardless, if you decide to fix I'd recommend soldering over some sort of twist connector. 
 
Ultimately, it might just be best to replace the charger.

Have you tried a different SATA port? Does your motherboard disable certain SATA ports when the M.2 slot is populated? I would expect the drive wouldn't show in the BIOS either if this was the case, but worth a look.

Have you tried a different SATA port? Does your motherboard disable certain SATA ports when the M.2 slot is populated? I would expect the drive wouldn't show in the BIOS either if this was the case, but worth a look.

Doesn't work like that, too many registry entries would not be modified and stuff wouldn't work.
Either uninstall/reinstall or clone the entire setup to the new SSD
 
The only exception to this (that I know of) is Steam, Steam will let you move the entire folder to anywhere else without a reinstall 

Thanks for the reply! 
 
Here's a quick update: Yesterday I got my hands on an EVGA 850W BQ and ran LOL and ATS for a while (about 2 hrs) without the issue, even the coil whining mostly disappeared: instead of constant noise there were now just lapses of time where it would come up for about 2-5 secs and then go away. I saw usages of the GPU up to 90% and temperatures always below 40C with fans at top speed.   Imma continue testing for a couple of days with that PSU and post any update. I'll revert the fans changes I did to both the gpu and the case in general to see how it goes.

So the only upgrade was CPU and mobo? 1440p Ultra is mostly GPU bound so i wouldn't expect any significant uplift from changing out the CPU when you're running on a 2070 Super. The 8600K is still a good gaming CPU.
 
You might want to change your formatting, the post is very confusing to read.

120mm aios are garbage. I wouldn't even touch liquid cooling if you aren't going to at least get a 240mm aio. As for air vs liquid I would say at the lower end like that air basically always wins out. 

Here's some great reading if you're still worried.
 
https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/real-life-oled-burn-in-test
 
I sit 11 feet from my TV.

I swear by a whole host of Anker products. This looks like it nearly fits your requirement.
 
https://us.anker.com/collections/hubs-docks/products/a7515
 
 

Agreed, but I just looked it up this ram is rated for 4000mhz, although it still might be too much for the memory controller, hence loosen timings a bit might help (its also really cheap corsair ram, which *doesn't* help lol)
 
So look, as per above try looser timings and maybe 3800mhz,  the thing is ryzen doesn't like 4 sticks , and above certain speeds it becomes even more difficult. 
If that doesn't work I'd return the ram and buy proper b-die,  you really gotta think this "4000mhz" ram cost the same as my gskill 3200 Samsung b-die,  why is that (probably because it's low quality,  and mixing kits even with the same numbers isn't guaranteed to work)

I meant after you added the new RAM did you re-set the DOCP profile to run at the higher speed? If so, 4000 MHz may just be too much for four sticks on your motherboard. That's a pretty decent RAM overclock.

Im sorry, what?
 
Are you saying your computer will turn on but not POST (no display) unless you have a particular mouse plugged in? Or do you just have to keep your pet mouse inside your case in order for your computer to boot?

Current DLSS performs well for what it's intended to do, so no reason to think a new version won't follow suit. Final verdict once it's actually released and reviewed.
 
Broader support, should developers choose to implement the "open source" version, can only be seen as a good thing in my mind. I imagine using it will be the same as today. You turn in on in the game options.
 
EDIT: Unless it becomes a driver-level thing across all games, then it would probably be done in the NVCP. I honestly couldn't be bothered to watch the full video, full disclosure. 

What troubleshooting have you done? Any recent updates installed? Did this happen randomly, after a restart, after a cold boot, some other time?
 
Have you turned it off and on again? 🤣

Aligns within 5 percent of manufacturers specs, so given there will always be variation.... yes, it's fine.

Aligns within 5 percent of manufacturers specs, so given there will always be variation.... yes, it's fine.

It was the battery, we removed it and used it with just the power cord. It worked fine. We will buy a new battery.

An electronics repair shop can likely fix it depending on the specific way it broke. A picture of your actual card would work best here.