Daftlander

Thanks for the help @johnt. It was a blender issue rather than a build issue. Uninstalling and reinstalling fixed it. 

Imo Bambu labs has not been around for long enough to know its true "long-term" potential. Especially given its relatively closed ecosystem and proprietary parts, its a bit hazy outlook. Furthermore, if you look at issues with the AMS system, you can see there are teething problems that need addressing by the company.

Obviously you are in the prusa territory, I personally really enjoyed using the Mk3S+(ish) and can recommend it. If input shaping ever releases on the Mk4, that would also make it faster generally too,

They're stealthy little Germans! xD 

You can also get combs/bus bars for DIN terminals and make up a big block of terminals for your power without having to make little loops.
 
Can also get fuse holders to suit which can be good if needing to isolate an overcurrent fault to one terminal.
 
Another option is power distribution board usually with screw terminals and polyswitch or fuse protection.
 
We use both methods.

Something like this? combined with ferrules.
 
 

There wont be anything in that budget that can give you reasonable precision with metal or frankly any material. There are allot of cutting forces even when you are cutting a soft wood. Anything in that price range i would consider a cnc router. A cnc mill will easily start at ~$2000 for a DIY cnc conversion of a Chinese milling machine. The lowest cost CNC that i could recommend for getting accurate cuts would be something like a Tormach pcnc 440. 

I don't know, man. Is it blue enough? 

I'm not a Fusion 360 - guru and I don't know how to do this the Correct(TM) way, but I can kinda-sorta get the result you're looking for by changing the order of the actions.
 
Here's a clip I recorded:
Create a solid cube and a cylinder Move them to where you want them Loft them together Use shell on the cube to hollow out the interior Punch a hole at the bottom of the cylinder

I've found the problem. Z endstop wiring was loose. Thanks for your help.

Downloaded from Github, then uploaded through an Arduino as ISP. (The USB cable is coming on Monday). Both red and blue LED's are shining solidly, which I think means the connection is fine. 
 
Followed this tutorial
 
 

So I bought an Ender-3 and a BLTouch. After upgrading the firmware to Marlin, and attaching the sensor, the machine wont home. X and Y are fine but when it tries to home Z the sensor just deploys once, immediately retracts and the Z axis never moves.
 
What do I do? 

Apologies for not coming back to this. But I figured out the issue. 
 
The changes I made in config.h were not being made in the firmware file when I rebuilt it. I cannot for the life of me figure out why. 
 
In the end I changed the probe offsets via pronterface and now the printer is back up and running.
 
Eventually I will try and figure out why visual studio is being such a bastard, but until then I have somewhat resolved this issue. 
 
Thanks ColinLTT for trying to help. 

Thanks. As you say it takes forever to pull frames one by one. I will have to work on an addon

Hi all. 
 
I've bought my Ender 3 a Bigtree SKR mini e3 1.2 board. After tearing my hair out trying to get firmware to work on it. I finally have it working. But now my BLtouch is misbehaving. When I auto-home it doesn't do the z homing in the centre as it should. Then when it does the bed levelling sequence it goes right to 0,0 and the BLTouch misses the bed entirely. 
 
I have set the offset on my probe properly and I have Z_SAFE_HOMING enabled. I'm at a bit of a loss here. 
 
Any help is greatly appreciated.

I don't want to tell you to just throw money at the problem. But a lot of Ender 3's shipped with warped beds. Grabbing a glass one is always a good bet. 
 
Bltouch from ANTCLABS is also a good shout and can level your print bed even if it is a little warped.
 
Looking at your prints, retraction may also a problem. Your temps are way too high, but you've been told that already. But turn down your retraction/ retraction speed in your slicer and you should get less stringing.

Nowadays it's way cheaper to buy an entry level printer than the components necessary to DIY one.

One day is easy. Go for a month.
 
Also no work-arounds like getting family to order stuff for you. 

One day is easy. Go for a month.
 
Also no work-arounds like getting family to order stuff for you. 

One day is easy. Go for a month.
 
Also no work-arounds like getting family to order stuff for you. 

One day is easy. Go for a month.
 
Also no work-arounds like getting family to order stuff for you. 

@Daftlander
 
Any DisplayPort 1.3 connection will "handle" it. (It's 1/2 of a "5K" display.) Now, if you mean in gaming? That's a different issue. It's pretty close to a 4K display in total pixels, so if you want to play well, you'll need a 2080 Ti.

One day is easy. Go for a month.
 
Also no work-arounds like getting family to order stuff for you. 

What a pillock.

So as it turns out, the software I have can focus my lens for me. Having lowered the centre of gravity and got rid of the follow focus mechanism, it carries the camera handily. Thanks for all the advice.

I've learned an important lesson. Always check your polarity kids! 
 
Or don't use cheap capacitors. Maybe even both.