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About ColinLTT

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  1. I think its pretty clear to anyone water cooling Pi's that its not done for massive performance gains. They're still pis. That being said, this guy did a great job - cool video.
  2. I would get an assembled prusa for ~1-2k, if you want peak performance out of the box printing, get a Daedalus - but the price is a big high.
  3. Well, your extrapolation is... impressive?
  4. There was nothing on the forks, so no elevated load. The machine was off. Not trying to justify it, just adding context.
  5. It is not on Youtube yet but is scheduled for release in the future.
  6. We tied the cable around it and tried to swing from it from the wall plug, but because I had crushed the convert-a-shell adapter it didnt hold. Didn't make the cut.
  7. Does the average ethernet cable just not cut it for you? Is your rig worthy of the ULTIMATE in tactical cable technology? Look no further, we have the solution for you. Buy Elite Core Ethernet Cable (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/lETwK
  8. Personally, ditch the solder sucker - I never use mine. I use wick for everything - get the good stuff (gootwick brand). For the solder I would pony up and get a 1lb spool that will last you forever, buy once cry once - I've been on the same spool for half a decade. I suggest this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-0010-Rosin-Solder-SPOOL/dp/B00068IJWC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2U0ZXFKLB9SFQ&dchild=1&keywords=kester+solder+63%2F37&qid=1610051374&sprefix=kester+solder+%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3 -- that's .020 wire, if you do really fine stuff consider going
  9. I have both a TS100 (and various power boards to run it from USB-C PD as well as XT60 Lipos) and 2x Hakko 888D's. I will use the Hakkos over the TS100 every time in a shop environment, however the TS100 is a great iron for detail work when I'm out in a field somewhere flying drones around. Depends on your use case, but I can recommend either iron - Hakko for benchtop, TS100 for portable. There is also a TS60 that's more aimed at fine work.
  10. Yup, I'll echo @bananasplit_00 here, use a photo cell to accomplish this. You wouldn't even have to learn programming if you didnt want to, you could wire up something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/TORK-120-Volt-LED-CFL-Post-Mount-Button-Photo-Control-2107A/207151788 Use that and wire it up to a lightbulb or a buzzer with a off switch in-line so that you can disable it once you've ordered more pellets. No computation necessary. If you want to go the arduino/raspi route this would be a great project to learn how to program a pi, using the photosenso
  11. Do not build your first printer, buy something that works. Just my 2c, but I've been doing this for a looooong time and you'll find yourself up a creek with little/no documentation/forum help to fall back on.
  12. For you given your experience, yes, this would be objectively hard. I would expect to spend a few weekends figuring it out and sourcing components.
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