VIVO-US

Our clamp-on monitor mounts can all fit a 0.6" (5/8") thick desktop, although how well that works without additional reinforcement can depend on factors such as the monitor weight and arrangement.  For desks that have a metal frame underneath, we've often recommended using wood blocks to help the clamp fit around the frame, and this works very well while adding reinforcement as long as the total thickness of the desktop with frame is within the specifications of the clamp.

I can at least say that cheap PSUs aren't as bad now as they used to be, but you still have to watch out and go for the reputable brands.  A few years back the market was flooded with what JonnyGuru called "gutless wonders", which were $15 to $30 PSUs with all sorts of high wattage and power delivery claims that could only handle half of what they were rated for, and would then (quite literally) blow up if you tried to go over.  I once disassembled one of these (Diablotek 400-something watt) after it had died and inspected each of the components, and found that the primary power components themselves were only rated for up to about 200W.  On top of that, all safety circuits such as overload and surge protection and others that are REALLY important had been left out and replaced by jumper wires!  Without these protections, failure can send a power surge through the system and cause damage to every component in the PC.
 
$65 will get you a decent PSU.  It certainly won't be anything top of the line, but as long as it has decent professional reviews, comes from a reputable brand and your peak system wattage is maybe 2/3 to 3/4 of the rated PSU wattage, you'll be fine.

Well, if the metal frame isn't too thick for the clamp, you can just clamp to the metal as well.
Although I don't know how the metal frame looks and positioned, if it's a small width metal and halfway into the clamp section you might still need to incorporate a wedge so the clamp have better gripping surface.
Although, at that point me myself would consider gluing / screwing / duct taping / double taping the "filler" wood onto the table as well.
Just to make sure it stays in place due to only a bit of it being clamped.
 
If you don't mind drilling a hole through your table, there's grommet style clamping too.
 
There you are 😛
Thanks for the info

Our clamp-on monitor mounts can all fit a 0.6" (5/8") thick desktop, although how well that works without additional reinforcement can depend on factors such as the monitor weight and arrangement.  For desks that have a metal frame underneath, we've often recommended using wood blocks to help the clamp fit around the frame, and this works very well while adding reinforcement as long as the total thickness of the desktop with frame is within the specifications of the clamp.

I couldn't wait to try out the monitor so I hooked it up to my very old laptop with what I believe is a GeForce 320 graphics card via HDMI cable. The difference in color and clarity with even that old graphics card is insane!
 
unfortunately when ordering the mount for it I forgot to take into account the cable channel behind the desk, so I either have to do some custom work to cut out part of that and make room for the mount bracket, or do the alternate drill a hole through the desk and mount it that way method. Decided I'm going to wait until the system is built and see how the factory desk mount works first before I go any further with your mount.

The 240mm radiator can cool a CPU almost twice as power hungry as the 7800X3D, so I wouldn't be surprised if the fans stay at low speed most of the time.  That will also keep the noise low and reduce dust buildup since they won't have to move as much air through.
 
I hope that monitor stand works well for you! 🙂 

Is your task manager showing 100% CPU usage when lagging, or is it showing high HDD usage?  In my personal experience for parts that age, swapping the HDD for an SSD will be a bigger boost to loading times than the CPU.  Also, if the motherboard can handle it, you can get a quad core Q6600 or Q6700 for around $10.

If you have any questions about our different TV stands, I'll be happy to help!

This is most likely from a very small crack at the edge of the LCD panel.  I saw this quite a few times back when we carried replacement laptop screens, and all we could do was throw them out because there's no fix for it.  The LCD panel or full monitor will have to be replaced.

Damm that's reeeeally helpful, I ordered a second stand, as I will need it anyway and if that one is also a failure I will give this a try for sure, thanks a lot mate

Thanks!  We do, but we don't have them available in the Netherlands, so the shipping and import costs make them a little too expensive. 🙂
 

The inner arm section can be swapped from one side to the other, making one arm extra long and the other short.  All you have to do is remove the large bolt from the top of each hinge, and we do include the correct 5mm Allen wrench with it.  The joints can also be tightened to prevent the arms from swinging too easily.  The minimum distance from the wall is about 7.5cm (as long as you can also get the pole to the wall).  We hope the setup all comes together well for you!

The Silent Wings 4 fans use interchangeable rubber corners to fit different spaces, and they use a 6-pole motor that's quieter and more efficient than the standard 4-pole motors.  $25 each is a lot to pay for fans though, so they're more of an enthusiast "best of the best" premium option that most will never need.  Noctua's fans are all around excellent.

"Bad" is subjective when it comes to PC noise.  I personally like to go for "you can't hear it in a quiet room" while others I know don't mind a near jet engine.  If it's quiet enough for you, then that's all that matters.

"Bad" is subjective when it comes to PC noise.  I personally like to go for "you can't hear it in a quiet room" while others I know don't mind a near jet engine.  If it's quiet enough for you, then that's all that matters.

The stock fans look similar to the ones we used to use in our cases.  Those fans were good for general use, so I suspect these would have similar performance.  Going onto your numbered questions:
 
1. Arctic P12 PWM fans are a favorite of many builders for the quiet performance and good airflow.  As case fans, the Corsairs won't do much better, so I'd personally go for the better value.
 
2. Using PWM fans, you can control as many as you want from the motherboard as long as you have either enough ports or a PWM fan hub.  A hub will allow you to control all 6 off a single port.
 
3. Keeping things to a quiet speed, having the 2 extra fans at the top will make more of a difference than changing the fans.  I'm guessing the stock fans top out at 1,000RPM while the P12 can get up to 2,000, so that's where the biggest difference in airflow will come from, but also keep in mind that fans make a lot more noise at 2,000RPM than 1,000.  PWM lets you stay in control of that, so you could even turn them down to a near silent 500RPM at idle.

Naw, I think some RTX2000 came with type c on it's back.
At least my Strix 2060 Super did. Never tried it though, I don't own VR, and plugging portable storage or whatever else into it instead of motherboard I/O sounded too roundabout. Especially since motherboard & pc case I/O are, most of the time, easier to access.
 
Probably why NVIDIA killed the idea.

https://www.eurogamer.net/digitalfoundry-2019-02-28-psa-the-usb-c-port-on-rtx-graphics-cards-isnt-just-for-vr

Idk if RX7000 Type-C also have the same function, or just for display.
 
@VIVO-US Seriously, enter Indonesia's market already. I'm sick of seeing expensive yet questionable monitor arms with very limited mounting option. 🤣

You called? 😁
Of the two in those links, STAND-V103F will be able to support the 27" monitors in the center and one side. The 24" vertical monitor may not be able to come up to the edge of the 27" due to flexibility limitations of the arms though.
The V003FG arms unfortunately aren't quite long enough.  We have one more option with arms that are just long enough to hold the two 27" monitors (fit is a little tight), and the other arm will be more than flexible enough to hold the portrait monitor close to the 27" in the center: https://vivo-us.com/collections/monitor-mounts/products/stand-v003p

You called? 😁
Of the two in those links, STAND-V103F will be able to support the 27" monitors in the center and one side. The 24" vertical monitor may not be able to come up to the edge of the 27" due to flexibility limitations of the arms though.
The V003FG arms unfortunately aren't quite long enough.  We have one more option with arms that are just long enough to hold the two 27" monitors (fit is a little tight), and the other arm will be more than flexible enough to hold the portrait monitor close to the 27" in the center: https://vivo-us.com/collections/monitor-mounts/products/stand-v003p

I'd take the water block off the CPU and make sure it's making good contact.  The same thing happened to me a long time ago installing a regular tower cooler, and I found that the base was resting on a capacitor and prevented it from making good contact with the CPU.  A slight position shift fixed it.

I'd take the water block off the CPU and make sure it's making good contact.  The same thing happened to me a long time ago installing a regular tower cooler, and I found that the base was resting on a capacitor and prevented it from making good contact with the CPU.  A slight position shift fixed it.

Maybe it has a built-in warranty sensor that tells the chip to explode when it's well past Noctua's 6-year warranty period.
 
The Arctic fan hub works on the same voltage as the fans, so it shouldn't have been a voltage problem.  Looking closely at the connectors, is it possible a few of the fans were plugged in upside down?  Looking at the design of the hub, I think it is possible to do that with some wiggling.

Try using a component cable instead of the regular composite cable.  You can still find Wii compatible component cables for around $10 on Amazon.  I used one a long time ago to see if it would help at all, and the results were deeper and brighter colors as well as a much sharper image overall.

Your typical desk mounted monitor arm will need about 2" or more of depth clearance.  A standard clamp with a hand bolt under the desk will typically need about 5" or 6" of available height for the hand bolt to fit, but there are a few stands out there with a low-profile clamp that instead tightens from the top, so one of those may work for your specific desk.

Thanks for recommending our stands!  We do have one more that may actually work well for the desk setup.
https://vivo-us.com/products/stand-v101bb
The clamp is instead tightened from above to make the plate below as thin as possible, so it can fit into a thin slot and still have a tight hold.  As long as the 32" monitor weight 17.6lbs or less when removed from the original stand, it will be supported without any problem.