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After all the advice...

The Mohawk

After all the advice I received here and at the PCPP forums, all the parts for my first ever build have been bought!! I can't wait to get everything this week and build it up next weekend!!

 

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/x4nc4M

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor  (Purchased For $358.99) 
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  (Purchased For $111.99) 
Thermal Compound: Noctua NT-H1 3.5 g Thermal Paste  (Purchased For $8.95) 
Motherboard: MSI MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard  (Purchased For $194.99) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  (Purchased For $117.99) 
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $129.99) 
Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $79.99) 
Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card  (Purchased For $995.89) 
Case: Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMe (2023) 1200 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $159.99) 
Monitor: Dell S3422DWG 34.0" 3440 x 1440 144 Hz Curved Monitor  (Purchased For $349.99) 
Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB PRO XT Wired Gaming Keyboard  (Purchased For $79.99) 
Mouse: Razer Basilisk V3 Wired Optical Mouse  (Purchased For $39.99) 
Headphones: Logitech Pro X 7.1 Channel  Headset  (Purchased For $81.99) 
Custom: VIVO Single LCD Monitor Desk Mount Stand Fully Adjustable/Tilt/Articulating for 1 Screen up to 27" (STAND-V001)  (Purchased For $29.99) 
Custom: fosa PC Front Panel Internal Card Reader, Media Multi-Function Dashboard USB 3.0 Port Support M2 SD MS XD CF TF Card for Computer, Fits any 5.25" Computer Case Front Bay  (Purchased For $21.01) 
Total: $2861.73
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-11-24 10:32 EST-0500

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3 minutes ago, The Mohawk said:

After all the advice I received here and at the PCPP forums, all the parts for my first ever build have been bought!! I can't wait to get everything this week and build it up next weekend!!

 

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/x4nc4M

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor  (Purchased For $358.99) 
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  (Purchased For $111.99) 
Thermal Compound: Noctua NT-H1 3.5 g Thermal Paste  (Purchased For $8.95) 
Motherboard: MSI MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard  (Purchased For $194.99) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  (Purchased For $117.99) 
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $129.99) 
Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $79.99) 
Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card  (Purchased For $995.89) 
Case: Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMe (2023) 1200 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $159.99) 
Monitor: Dell S3422DWG 34.0" 3440 x 1440 144 Hz Curved Monitor  (Purchased For $349.99) 
Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB PRO XT Wired Gaming Keyboard  (Purchased For $79.99) 
Mouse: Razer Basilisk V3 Wired Optical Mouse  (Purchased For $39.99) 
Headphones: Logitech Pro X 7.1 Channel  Headset  (Purchased For $81.99) 
Custom: VIVO Single LCD Monitor Desk Mount Stand Fully Adjustable/Tilt/Articulating for 1 Screen up to 27" (STAND-V001)  (Purchased For $29.99) 
Custom: fosa PC Front Panel Internal Card Reader, Media Multi-Function Dashboard USB 3.0 Port Support M2 SD MS XD CF TF Card for Computer, Fits any 5.25" Computer Case Front Bay  (Purchased For $21.01) 
Total: $2861.73
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-11-24 10:32 EST-0500

Hello... All of this looks good except for 1 thing. The ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler will struggle really hard to Cool the 7800X3D. If I were you I would get a 360mm AIO, otherwise you might see a Fried CPU in your future.

 

If you have any questions please let me know. I can be reached here or I can be reached much quicker on Discord 24/7. Here is my Discord: Wizardsnapper#2772 I am also available if you need help before, during, or after the Build process on Discord through Voice or Video Chat.

I have been building PCs for over 30 years so if you have any questions please ask. For Future Communication I use Discord for much Faster Response Times as I have it open 24/7. I am also available if you need help before, during, or after the Build Process on Discord through Text,Voice, or Video Chat. I can be with you while you build your new PC if you need me to be. Here is my Discord: Wizardsnapper#2772

 

 

 

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Just now, PC HEROES said:

Hello... All of this looks good except for 1 thing. The ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler will struggle really hard to Cool the 7800X3D. If I were you I would get a 360mm, otherwise you might see a Fried CPU in your future.

 

If you have any questions please let me know. I can be reached here or I can be reached much quicker on Discord 24/7. Here is my Discord: Wizardsnapper#2772 I am also available if you need help before, during, or after the Build process on Discord through Voice or Video Chat.

240mm is the biggest that will fit at the top of the case I am using. Everything I've been told is that one should be fine since I'm not going to be overclocking or pushing it super hard. If it does get too hot I'll have to redo my setup to a front radiator I suppose and go bigger...

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23 minutes ago, PC HEROES said:

Hello... All of this looks good except for 1 thing. The ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler will struggle really hard to Cool the 7800X3D

Evidence of this please?

 

I'd easily expect this 240mm AIO to cool a 7800X3D.

 

Plus it is well documented that the 7800X3D is quite power efficent and runs comparitively cool to other chips and that beyhond 240mm, the effectiveness of AIOs plateaus.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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8 minutes ago, PC HEROES said:

Hello... All of this looks good except for 1 thing. The ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler will struggle really hard to Cool the 7800X3D. If I were you I would get a 360mm AIO, otherwise you might see a Fried CPU in your future.

 

If you have any questions please let me know. I can be reached here or I can be reached much quicker on Discord 24/7. Here is my Discord: Wizardsnapper#2772 I am also available if you need help before, during, or after the Build process on Discord through Voice or Video Chat.

It won't?

 

A 7800x3d doesnt run hot like at all

 

How would it even fry? It has thermal protections

 

A cooler like a thermalright peerless assasin 120 handles a 7800x3d like a champ and the arctic and that one are practically the same cooling wise.

 

5 minutes ago, The Mohawk said:

240mm is the biggest that will fit at the top of the case I am using. Everything I've been told is that one should be fine since I'm not going to be overclocking or pushing it super hard. If it does get too hot I'll have to redo my setup to a front radiator I suppose and go bigger...

Dont bother where the rad is just have the fans as intake. Doesnt matter where in your case it is since all is mesh just have the fans in front and top as INTAKE.

 

The person saying this is objectively wrong as the 7800x3d is hyper efficient. Yes they can run hot which is BY DESIGN and will boost as high as possible whilst staying in the generous hard limited 95c limit. The same as how nvidia locks their cards at 83c for example and tells em to let it rip till that

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11 minutes ago, The Mohawk said:

Power Supply: Corsair RMe (2023) 1200 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $159.99)

 

Mouse: Razer Basilisk V3 Wired Optical Mouse  (Purchased For $39.99)

My advice:

 

Instead of a 1200W PSU with a 7 year warrenty, I'd go looking for a 900/1000W PSU with a 10 year warrenty

Also, don't buy stuff from Razer, their stuff is so bad quality it is basically a meme now

Otherwise, all looks good, enjoy your PC 🙂

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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8 minutes ago, PC HEROES said:

Hello... All of this looks good except for 1 thing. The ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler will struggle really hard to Cool the 7800X3D. If I were you I would get a 360mm AIO, otherwise you might see a Fried CPU in your future.

It will be fine. The CPU is hard to cool not because of the power output but because of the thermal transfer inefficiencies due to it's design. He will not fry anything...

The Arctic also uses much thicker radiators than most other AIO coolers and has much bigger surface area.

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1 minute ago, jaslion said:

It won't?

 

A 7800x3d doesnt run hot like at all

 

How would it even fry? It has thermal protections

 

A cooler like a thermalright peerless assasin 120 handles a 7800x3d like a champ and the arctic and that one are practically the same cooling wise.

 

Dont bother where the rad is just have the fans as intake. Doesnt matter where in your case it is since all is mesh just have the fans in front and top as INTAKE.

 

The person saying this is objectively wrong as the 7800x3d is hyper efficient. Yes they run hot BY DESIGN and will boost as high as possible whilst staying in the generous hard limited 95c limit. The same as how nvidia locks their cards at 83c for example and tells em to let it rip till that

So I should have the fans on the radiator and in the front of the case pull air in and only the fan at the rear as exhaust? Even if the system is sitting under a desk?

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Just now, WereCat said:

It will be fine. The CPU is hard to cool not because of the power output but because of the thermal transfer inefficiencies due to it's design. He will not fry anything...

And also they have a hard 95c limit well under their max rated temp so unless the user specifically goes to override that nothing happens

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3 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

My advice:

 

Instead of a 1200W PSU with a 7 year warrenty, I'd go looking for a 900/1000W PSU with a 10 year warrenty

Also, don't buy stuff from Razer, their stuff is so bad quality it is basically a meme now

Otherwise, all looks good, enjoy your PC 🙂

The 1200w was $5 more than the 1000w so I just went slightly bigger to be safe for any future growth I decide to do.

 

I just went for a cheaper gaming mouse that had decent reviews. If it sucks I'll get a different one.

Edited by The Mohawk
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1 minute ago, The Mohawk said:

The 1200w was $5 more than the 1000w so I just went slightly bigger to be safe for any future growth I decide to do.

Extra capacity is a good idea, but not always at the expense of the lifetime of the PSU. But it does depend on how you plan to upgrade the machine in future (and the RMe series is pretty good overall).

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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7 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

Evidence of this please?

 

I'd easily expect this 240mm AIO to cool a 7850X3D.

 

Plus it is well documented that the 7850X3D is quite power efficent and runs comparitively cool to other chips and that beyhond 240mm, the effectiveness of AIOs plateaus.

You mean 7800X3D I suppose

This chip runs hot by design, but don't use much power (120W max) so it's easy to cool down to its designed high temp (if that makes sense 😉 )

To get it running cooler just undervolt it with Curve Optimizer

System : AMD R9 5900X / Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO/ 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance 3600CL18 ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Eisbaer 280mm AIO (with 2xArctic P14 fans) / 2TB Crucial T500  NVme + 2TB WD SN850 NVme + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD drives/ Corsair RM850x PSU/  Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / Logitech G915TKL keyboard (wireless) / Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

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3 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

You mean 7800X3D I suppose

yeah, good catch, I've updated it 🙂

 

3 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

This chip runs hot by design, but don't use much power (120W max) so it's easy to cool down to its designed high temp (if that makes sense 😉 )

To get it running cooler just undervolt it with Curve Optimizer

Well aware

 

Was just completely shocked to see someone suggesting that a 240mm rad wouldn't be enough to cool a 7800X3D, when I don't even think a rad is a must have on that chip (I think its a nice to have, but not a requirement).

 

No idea where they got that idea from.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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3 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

Extra capacity is a good idea, but not always at the expense of the lifetime of the PSU. But it does depend on how you plan to upgrade the machine in future (and the RMe series is pretty good overall).

I'm replacing a 15 year old HP DV6 laptop with this thing...if that tells you anything about how I upgrade LOL

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1 minute ago, The Mohawk said:

I'm replacing a 15 year old HP DV6 laptop with this thing...if that tells you anything about how I upgrade LOL

Fair enough, I doubt it matters either way then 🙂

 

Enjoy, it looks like a great gaming machine.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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4 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

yeah, good catch, I've updated it 🙂

 

Well aware

 

Was just completely shocked to see someone suggesting that a 240mm rad wouldn't be enough to cool a 7800X3D, when I don't even think a rad is a must have on that chip. No idea where they got that idea from.

Yeah I think that first the Zen4 design confuses people that think thy need moaar cooling because the chips run at 95C naturally
Zen don't work like Intel chips, they get super hot super fast but on hotspot only, Intels tend to raise temps more linearly and all over the chip (so have hotspot closer to average temps), so with Zen you cannot clearly determine if your cooling is the problem

Then they may have missed that aircoolers are pretty decent now, the dual towers are able to cool up to 180-200W with not much noise

Aircoolers are still not good enough for OCed 14900K or such with their 300W power usage...

 

 

System : AMD R9 5900X / Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO/ 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance 3600CL18 ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Eisbaer 280mm AIO (with 2xArctic P14 fans) / 2TB Crucial T500  NVme + 2TB WD SN850 NVme + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD drives/ Corsair RM850x PSU/  Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / Logitech G915TKL keyboard (wireless) / Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

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1 minute ago, PDifolco said:

Yeah I think that first the Zen4 design confuses people that think thy need moaar cooling because the chips run at 95C naturally

Then they may have missed that aircoolers are pretty decent now, the dual towers are able to cool up to 180-200W with not much noise

Aircoolers are still not good enough for OCed 14900K or such with their 300W power usage...

exactly

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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2 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

Yeah I think that first the Zen4 design confuses people that think thy need moaar cooling because the chips run at 95C naturally

Then they may have missed that aircoolers are pretty decent now, the dual towers are able to cool up to 180-200W with not much noise

Aircoolers are still not good enough for OCed 14900K or such with their 300W power usage...

 

 

I just went with an AIO because I wanted to be sure of cooling ability and I liked how it looked. I know I could have saved a little and gotten a Noctua or ThermalAssassin air cooler but at least this way I know I'm set for a while.

 

Since we're talking about cooling...should have the fans on the top mounted radiator and in the front of the case pull air in and only the fan at the rear as exhaust, or have the radiator fans push out the hot air as well? The system is likely going to be sitting under a desk?

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3 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

Yeah I think that first the Zen4 design confuses people that think thy need moaar cooling because the chips run at 95C naturally
Zen don't work like Intel chips, they get super hot super fast but on hotspot only, Intels tend to raise temps more linearly and all over the chip (so have hotspot closer to average temps), so with Zen you cannot clearly determine if your cooling is the problem

Then they may have missed that aircoolers are pretty decent now, the dual towers are able to cool up to 180-200W with not much noise

Aircoolers are still not good enough for OCed 14900K or such with their 300W power usage...

 

 

Not only that but also because of the design. Almost all coolers have coldplate optimized to cool single chip located in the middle of the CPU but with Zen the die in the middle is the IO/die while the actual core part sits under it and only mostly gets partial coverage of the most efficient portion on the coolers coldplate (especially for AIO coolers).

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1 minute ago, The Mohawk said:

Since we're talking about cooling...should have the fans on the top mounted radiator and in the front of the case pull air in and only the fan at the rear as exhaust, or have the radiator fans push out the hot air as well? The system is likely going to be sitting under a desk?

It does not really matter.

 

Intake on radiator will make the temp on CPU a little bit lower but it's not necessary. Really mount it as it makes most sense to you depending on where the case will be located. IMO I'd rather have cooler GPU than CPU so I prefer CPU rad as an exhaust. There is always a trade off for the rest of components.

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13 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

yeah, good catch, I've updated it 🙂

 

Well aware

 

Was just completely shocked to see someone suggesting that a 240mm rad wouldn't be enough to cool a 7800X3D, when I don't even think a rad is a must have on that chip (I think its a nice to have, but not a requirement).

 

No idea where they got that idea from.

An ml240 I could see have some issues but an arctic? Nah that stuffs great

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4 minutes ago, The Mohawk said:

I just went with an AIO because I wanted to be sure of cooling ability and I liked how it looked. I know I could have saved a little and gotten a Noctua or ThermalAssassin air cooler but at least this way I know I'm set for a while.

 

Since we're talking about cooling...should have the fans on the top mounted radiator and in the front of the case pull air in and only the fan at the rear as exhaust, or have the radiator fans push out the hot air as well? The system is likely going to be sitting under a desk?

Just front and top intake back can be left empty. Most cases do best wil this setup.

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1 minute ago, WereCat said:

It does not really matter.

 

Intake on radiator will make the temp on CPU a little bit lower but it's not necessary. Really mount it as it makes most sense to you depending on where the case will be located. IMO I'd rather have cooler GPU than CPU so I prefer CPU rad as an exhaust. There is always a trade off for the rest of components.

Thanks. I figured exhaust out the top would help the system overall by getting out more heat. I guess it's not a hard change either if I want to experiment once it's all built.

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9 minutes ago, The Mohawk said:

Thanks. I figured exhaust out the top would help the system overall by getting out more heat. I guess it's not a hard change either if I want to experiment once it's all built.

Regardless if you're going to use exhaust or intake I'd suggest to use fans in a pull configuration so that fans pull air trough the radiator rather than push it... if that makes sense.

You will lose a bit of static pressure but it's far easier to clean with less dust accumulation. It's up to you really, I'm just suggesting it from lazy point of view 😄 

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13 minutes ago, jaslion said:

...but an arctic? Nah that stuffs great

This

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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