Mechanical Keyboard Club!

[MrBaker89]

20 hours ago, that_dude said:

What's your thought on a keyboard like this?

60% + rotary encoder & e-Ink to the right

 

Badly remixed image has approx. relasitic proportions.

 

(none photshoped) image/source image: https://epomaker.com/collections/60-keyboards/products/epomaker-sk61

Sorry, I should have mentioned it needs to have numpad etc. Doesn’t have to be full-size. 

[person123456789]

3 hours ago, that_dude said:

@person123456789They are easier for sure. But how would you integrate them in such a layout?

 

Back to the topic: Can you make vertical workout? 

122x250 pixel has this display. So I would assume this is comparable to the streamdeck. Meaning small text, 8-10  char.,  per line should be possible. Not a whole lot.

Time? no issue

weather? no issue

layer information? no issue

battery? no issue

notifications? that might be an issue.

 

Next option would be making it larger with a 2.9" display. This would increase the width to 30mm, equal to the wdith of the pebble time.

 

The answer is that you don't integrate it into the layout.

It doesn't make sense to put a screen on a 60% keeb as it ruins the compactness and minimalism

[person123456789]

52 minutes ago, that_dude said:

@person12345678960% was wrong. My bad. ISO-DE 69% + the display so a 7x%?

Layout will be identical to this with some minor tweaks to squeeze in another key into the bottom row.

 

For minimalisim that's why I choose ePaper. First thought about OLED for perfect blacks but this would still glow so it is eink.

 

 

Wouldn't that look very bad?

[person123456789]

10 minutes ago, that_dude said:

@person123456789That's a good point. One issue is definitly the height diffrence as this is frameless (just keyplate). One option to overcome this might be desiging it like a keycap to bring level it and fade it into the overall design.

 

all the designs online use cases to "hide" the display: https://www.google.de/search?q=mechanical+keyboard+oled&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiw7IGI2t77AhXQPOwKHfoiDksQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=mechanical+keyboard+oled&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzIHCAAQgAQQEzIICAAQCBAeEBM6CAgAEAUQHhATUL8CWIAGYMwGaABwAHgAgAF6iAGEA5IBAzIuMpgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nwAEB&sclient=img&ei=U-mLY_D2BtD5sAf6xbjYBA&bih=955&biw=1920#imgrc=dh9d-YeLz6JizM

 

Sugesstions?

 

 

My previous comment wasn't about the height difference

It was about how squeezing another key into the bottom row would look horrendous

[Esemes16]

I've built a few keyboards in my day, but this one by far has to be the most interesting. It is the Libre Mini forty five, I have no clue how to do numbers on this thing. I got the bare bones kit off AliExpress for one hundred and twenty dollars, and am using Drop Halo True switches and drop skylight key caps. The key caps are just for the time being until I bother to order a proper set for this keeb.

 

The thumb stick is used as the arrow keys, it doesn't naively support working as a thumb stick like on a controller, though I haven't tried looking for drivers to do that. I am also thinking of painting the plates.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004518370695.html

 

Thought y'all would find this interesting, any ideas on what key caps I should use?

[Jorgemeister]

22 hours ago, Esemes16 said:

I've built a few keyboards in my day, but this one by far has to be the most interesting. It is the Libre Mini forty five, I have no clue how to do numbers on this thing. I got the bare bones kit off AliExpress for one hundred and twenty dollars, and am using Drop Halo True switches and drop skylight key caps. The key caps are just for the time being until I bother to order a proper set for this keeb.

 

The thumb stick is used as the arrow keys, it doesn't naively support working as a thumb stick like on a controller, though I haven't tried looking for drivers to do that. I am also thinking of painting the plates.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004518370695.html

 

Thought y'all would find this interesting, any ideas on what key caps I should use?

 

 

 

This looks interesting, I saw a video from rice cloud with that one and though it was interesting, she used some foil paper in between the top and mid acrylic panels to give it color btw, since you mention you want to paint it.

 

Given the joystick I think it would look cool with some Nintendo themed or colored keycaps.

[person123456789]

On 12/12/2022 at 5:22 PM, Esemes16 said:

I've built a few keyboards in my day, but this one by far has to be the most interesting. It is the Libre Mini forty five, I have no clue how to do numbers on this thing. I got the bare bones kit off AliExpress for one hundred and twenty dollars, and am using Drop Halo True switches and drop skylight key caps. The key caps are just for the time being until I bother to order a proper set for this keeb.

 

The thumb stick is used as the arrow keys, it doesn't naively support working as a thumb stick like on a controller, though I haven't tried looking for drivers to do that. I am also thinking of painting the plates.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004518370695.html

 

Thought y'all would find this interesting, any ideas on what key caps I should use?

GMK BoW?

[Esemes16]

6 hours ago, Jorgemeister said:

 

 

This looks interesting, I saw a video from rice cloud with that one and though it was interesting, she used some foil paper in between the top and mid acrylic panels to give it color btw, since you mention you want to paint it.

 

Given the joystick I think it would look cool with some Nintendo themed or colored keycaps.

Beige and Red sort of vibe? I like the idea

[iRocks]

Hello everyone,

 

I could need some help....

Because I f**kedup big time..

 

I got a gmmk 2 96% today an while disassembling one of the screws was probly glued in so hard I couldn't get it out, instead the screwdriver destroyed the screwhead.... So I tried backing powder + superglue but it wasn't strong enough and broke instantly. So I had to drill the screw out what worked just fine. 

 

 

And then.....

 

 

I dropped the pcb

 

 

and ripped a smd part of the pcb,

 

I think it's a diode, it's labeled C1 and is directly by the screw hole by the mcu.

 

So if someone could tell me what exact part that actually is...

 

I could fix my never used brand new keyboard

 

Merry crisis

 

 

[OhioYJ]

56 minutes ago, iRocks said:

i think it's a diode, it's labeled C1

Those yellow things appear to be capacitors to me. The C# designations would also seem to indicate capacitor.  If there are no markings on it you could measure a neighboring one, but you'll need to remove it first. 

[iRocks]

You are right. It's a capacitor,

I replaced it with a 100nf one, and the keyboard works without problems.

 

I'm so pissed right now.

I tried to contact glorious in 3 different ways and asked the same question.

 

"Could you please tell me what capacitor is used on C1 on my one-day-old gmmk2 96%?"

 

And I get the same stupid answer every time.

 

"We are sorry. We cannot provide this part as a replacement."

 

It's so stupid I never asked for a replacement. It feels like nobody can understand what I asked them.

 

Extremely frustrating ... 


But my keyboard is working, and it feels great typing this on it.

 

THX  @OhioYJ

[rudimedia]

I‘ve just found this interesting looking keyboard design. Has anyone here tried it? Or, from looking at it, what do you think? It‘s a split design, so not something for everyone I guess, I‘m just intrigued by the apparent ergonomic benefits. Would be interested to hear your guys thoughts.

 

 

 

 

[Jorgemeister]

On 12/19/2022 at 12:07 AM, Dean0919 said:

I have Corsair K70 (very old version, before even those RGB things were a thing), with red switches and red lights. My wife has some unknown brand RGB mechanical keyboard, without a soft (lights can't be changed) and on blue switches which are very loud and annoying. So, I decided to order new keyboard for me. I saw in live HyperX Alloy Origins which my friend bought, and I feel in love with that keyboard. So, I ordered it for myself and then I swapped mine and my wife's keyboard and I realized that I can't live without dedicated media buttons. It was super uncomfortable for me to use FN+F11, F10 and etc... combinations. I like to listen to music a lot and when someone is talking to me, I can easily pause the song with just one click on my K70 keyboard or use the volume roller. Those media keys are god send for people like me. So, now it's a problem, this keyboard which is being shipped right now, won't be good for me. I have two options now:

 

1. Sell that keyboard as soon as it arrives and add a bit more money and make an order of HyperX Alloy Elite 2, which is almost same, but dedicated media buttons

 

or

 

2. Give that keyboard to my wife and wait a lot of months, before I get money for the new keyboard...

 

It just sucks. Wish I would pay attention to this before I made an order...

 

Do you guys also use dedicated media keys like me?

Id say selling what you no longer or will not use sounds like the better option, unless you want to end up with 3 or 4 unused keyboards. and return the one coming if you don't like it. Also there are many better brands than the usual gaming ones like Corsair and hyperX and all those, look around there is plenty.

 

Another option would be keep it, since you like it, and get one of those programmable Macro pad from ali express, they are usually cheap, depending on the number of keys, and you can easily program them to whatever media function you want, even better if they have a knob, for example I got this one on some sale for $25 (without keys and switches), I have 1 knob for volume/play pause, other for previous/next song and the other one is for . (lol) because I cant seem to think of a useful thing for it for now, There are many layouts and sizes, just make sure its programmable, even better if it supports QMK, VIA or VIAL.

 

 

 

[DarthBaggins]

After going custom or along that quality, I will never go back to a Corsair/Hyper X/Razer board.  Ducky/Filco/RealForce are the only mass produced I will still consider, but there are good inexpensive options out there that feel & perform better than most of the garbage that is hyped on the market.  Personally, I would save for something top tier that will last over time.

[Jorgemeister]

1 hour ago, DarthBaggins said:

After going custom or along that quality, I will never go back to a Corsair/Hyper X/Razer board.  Ducky/Filco/RealForce are the only mass produced I will still consider, but there are good inexpensive options out there that feel & perform better than most of the garbage that is hyped on the market.  Personally, I would save for something top tier that will last over time.

Absolutely agree on the big gaming brands, I recently sold an old used Corsair K70 with cherry Speed switches at $50 and I think it wasn't even worth that. (felt kinda bad for the buyer, even threw an extra set of keycaps for free) 

 

Even a cheap kit from ali express with a bit of modding and nice switches would be better. 

 

I got into the QK75 GB last month and they started shipping already, can't wait to get it, it looks great. 

[godsarmy]

Another Unikorn, this is one of the HK commissions. There were 31 units made. Build = carbon fiber plate, cherry blossom  keycaps, switches are evolution, nylon blue bottom, cherry top, blizzard stem, tx 70g. 
 

[benny_r_t_2]

deleted by benny_r_t_2

[benny_r_t_2]

deleted by benny_r_t_2

[Volbet]

I build this NCR 80 out for a colleague of mine:

 

I originally intended for it to use Kailh White Owl switches and some white/beige SA profile keycaps, but neither of those things arrived on time. So I guess that will wait for part two.

 

For now the keyboard uses Drop + Invyr Holy Pandas and Glorious PBT keycaps. The color of the keycaps definitely clash with the retro look of the case, but I do like it in a strange way I can't really describe.  

It's also weird for the NCR 80 kit to come with LEDs for num lock and scroll lock, considering that this keyboard contains neither key. 

I probably should also say that the hotswap version of this kit isn't all that easy to build if you use an ISO layout, as you need to move some of the hotswap sockets to other holes by de- and resolder some of them. 

[rice guru]

Finally built the qk65 that's been sitting on my shelf a while

Switches: keebfront DOOM switches lines with tribosis 3203 gazzew style with dialectic grease on the leaf.

Keycaps : KAT Kata

Stabs: TX stabs lubed with dialectric grease

Mods : force break mod

This build is also Abit heretic as there is no foam at all on this board which kinda feels illegal on a qk65 but it sounds pretty good. And definitely different from your typical marbly qk

 

 

 

[benny_r_t_2]

Hello,

 

I replaced the original steel plate in my keychron Q3 with this POM plate from Keyboard Kustoms.

 

Very happy with the result.  Sounds very nice and feels nice typing.   Love it.  My sister tried it and says it's the best thing I've done to the keyboard.  she likens it to "bubble wrap popping" sounds.  LOL.  She meant that as a compliment I think.

 

It came with plenty of new gaskets because the Q3 uses gaskets on the plate to suspend the guts.

 

It came with standoffs (pictured) for between the plate and PCB.  These aren't needed though because the switches themselves secure the plate to the PCB.  Quick note about these standoffs.  They are are not built into the plate like they are in the original steel plate.   As I mentioned, I'm not using the standoffs with the new plate.  The reason is because they secure to the POM plate using a nut and to the PCB using a screw.  The nut sits above the plate.  You can guess what happens... the keycaps near that nut make contact with that nut.  For example, the right arrow key is near a standoff location and you would not be able to fully press that switch/cap down without it contacting the nut.   but you won't need the standoffs anyway, so it's not an issue..

 

I love the POM plate and highly recommend these.

 

Thank you,

 

benny

 

[behlul2142]

Hi, 

I saw your answer on a thread related to this topic. 

Actually my keyboard stopped working recently and I've that all the rgb effects are working but the keyboard can't be detected by the pc. 

1 key row is not working at all even when i press any key from that row, the Lighting effect doesn't work means that there is a problem with that row. 

I wanted to ask what could be the issue. I even swapped this dead diode but still there is no response. 

1: Keyboard wire seems okay because i used software to change RGB effect and it was working.

2: Keyboard is still responding to on board RGB shortcut commands.

3: only one row is completely dead and it's not giving any response like when i press other keys i can see the keyboard RGB is working but this 1 key row has no response at all. 

[benny_r_t_2]

My dad was needing an additional keyboard for when he visits my home when using his laptop.

 

I've set him up with a corner "office" near a window for him to dock his Dell Precision 7710 laptop.

 

He needed a good keyboard for this office and he has a few requirements 

 

- North Facing LED because he needs/likes shine through legends for his keycaps

- that meant a good set of shine through key caps were required too.

- CapsLock indicator LED on the keyboard is needed so he KNOWS which state it is in at any moment.

- Wireless so that he can be untethered.  He likes to type with keyboard on his lap so he doesn't have to raise his arms often. 

- Not heavy, because he's 77 yrs old.  And although he says he can benchpress a 4 bedroom house, I have doubts on it's legitimacy.

 

The keyboard I chose is the Keychron K8.  It is also the only keyboard I could find that meets all of the above requirements and also has hotswappable switches.

 

I upgraded it with Poron Foam to fill the vacancy beneath the PCB and also to fill the void between the top plate and the PCB.  Also ordered a POM top plate to give best possible sound when typing, but that POM plate won't arrive until later today.  The foam and plate were ordered from Keyboard Kustoms and were made specifically for the keychron keyboards.

 

For key switches I ordered a set of Gazzew BOBA U4T tactile switches with 62g springs.   But after testing, I liked the sound and feel of the Kailh Clione Tactile with 58g springs and so we installed the Kailh instead of the Boba.  The Kailh's 58g springs actually feel heavier to press (which we like) than compared to the 62g springs in the Boba.  So the difference must be related to the actuation mechanism and not just the spring weight themselves.  I have some heavier springs on the way 67g and 80g that I will experiment with later.

 

For keycaps we went with YMDK PBT plastic OEM profile with Double-shot in 1.2mm wall thickness.  They sound and feel nice for shine-through keycaps and the legends are clear to read even when not backlit. 

 

The end result is super nice typing experience. 

 

 

[Atk_nite]

I need help opening my Amazon keyboard

I think I found where they r buuuut theres no screw to unscrew

[sub68]

3 minutes ago, Atk_nite said:

I need help opening my Amazon keyboard

NO SCREWS IN SIGHT

IM SCARED

 

 

Check under the rubber foot pads