Jump to content

High quality PSU makes a weird noise when the button is between 1 and 0

PolishGod

If I turn the PSU off, it sounds like it makes sparks and if I hold the button between 1 and 0 the noise keeps coming, should I get it replaced? It has been like this for many months and my computer works fine for what I can tell. This is my PSU: https://se.pcpartpicker.com/product/Yqqrxr/be-quiet-dark-power-13-1000-w-80-titanium-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn661

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's "normal" and it is arcing inside. Don't do that, or try and do that. It's not normal for someone to try and hold a switch in between positions. It should be flipped on or off. You will mess up the contacts if you keep doing this. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

As mentioned by @OhioYJ what you're suggesting here is normal, are you turning this switch on/of every time you use the computer though? I would recommend only flipping this when necessary, ie working on your machine or if it will be off for weeks at a time. I found out the hard way that these rocker switches were not designed to be used in that way, eventually mine stopped working as a switch! 

My Rig:

Xeon E5 1680 V2 @ 4.5GHz - Asus Rampage IV Extreme X79 Mobo - 64GB DDR3 1600MHz - 8 x 8GB Corsair Vengeance Low Profile - CAS 10-10-10-27 - AMD Radeon RX 6700XT Sapphire Pulse 12GB - DeepCool E-Shield E-ATX Tempered Glass Case - 1 x 1TB Crucial P1 NVMe SSD - BeQuiet Straight Power 11 850W Gold+ Quad rail - Fractal Design Celsius S36 & 6 x 120mm silent fans - Lenovo KBBH21 - Corsair Glaive RGB Pro - Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit

 

Monitors - 3 x Acer Nitro 23.8" 1080p 75Hz IPS 1ms Freesync Panels = AMD Eyefinity @ 75Hz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

im pretty sure you can actually destroy it by doing this.

 

would highly recommend to STOP doing this therefore   

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah so basically as you move the switch positions the contacts will break or make as in disconnect or complete the circuit.

 

However electricity can get a bit eager and can arc or 'jump' a small air gap when the contacts are close to each other.

 

It's not generally wanted and can cause damage to the contacts if excessive.

 

A lot of switches will will have a spring or tensioned parts so that contacts move quickly between positions, kind of jump or snap between them. You don't want them casually meandering over, if switches are mushy it's generally a bad thing.

 

Anyway on that note, don't forcefully or deliberately hold switches in spots they aren't supposed to be in, moreso if you hear arcing. Same goes for say holding a breaker or RCD on that is tripping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, PolishGod said:

if I hold the button between 1 and 0 the noise keeps coming, should I get it replaced

Why would you do this.

And stop flipping the switch whenever you leave your computer. Just shut down your OS and leave it.

I edit my messages more than not –

Probably some dude on the internet

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Hellowpplz said:

Why would you do this.

And stop flipping the switch whenever you leave your computer. Just shut down your OS and leave it.

This too it wears out the psu and will give it a shorter life. If there is really a need to shut if off off just get a power bar or plug that has an off switch.

 

The back psu switch is NOT meant to be used on a daily basis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, jaslion said:

The back psu switch is NOT meant to be used on a daily basis

Arguably it should be, but you're right in that it seems a lot of manufacturers really cheap out on it assuming people wont be.

 

I've definitely had one or two PSUs where the switch broke despite me very rarely turning it off that way.

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz)
WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz) Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~800Mbit down, 115Mbit up)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

Arguably it should be, but you're right in that it seems a lot of manufacturers really cheap out on it assuming people wont be.

 

I've definitely had one or two PSUs where the switch broke despite me very rarely turning it off that way.

Using a more expensive switch for the sake of saving 0.05W of power is wasteful

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wdym why would I do this, it literally does that sparking sound when I use the button normally.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, jaslion said:

This too it wears out the psu and will give it a shorter life. If there is really a need to shut if off off just get a power bar or plug that has an off switch.

 

The back psu switch is NOT meant to be used on a daily basis

Well good thing my motherboard doesn't keep the lights on when the PC is off because just turned the PSU off all the time with my old pc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, PolishGod said:

Well good thing my motherboard doesn't keep the lights on when the PC is off because just turned the PSU off all the time with my old pc.

Another problem is motherboards used to use single-use Lithium cells for the CMOS which lasted up to 10 years.

 

A lot of modern ones assume you never turn the PSU off so use rechargeable with varying capacity, that can drain relatively quickly and may in fact wear out in a few years if you're using up charge cycles every day.

 

1 hour ago, PolishGod said:

Wdym why would I do this, it literally does that sparking sound when I use the button normally.

Are you not pushing it hard enough?  It should happen so briefly the noise would be hidden by the click of the button.

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz)
WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz) Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~800Mbit down, 115Mbit up)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, PolishGod said:

If I turn the PSU off, it sounds like it makes sparks and if I hold the button between 1 and 0 the noise keeps coming, should I get it replaced? It has been like this for many months and my computer works fine for what I can tell. This is my PSU: https://se.pcpartpicker.com/product/Yqqrxr/be-quiet-dark-power-13-1000-w-80-titanium-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn661

 

Are you talking about the power switch (I/O) on the BACK of the PSU?

Why would you HOLD it in between I and O??

Can the power supply switch be left on all the time? Whenever I turned off  my PC, I also turned off the power switch. : r/pcmasterrace
 

Intel Z390 Rig ( *NEW* Primary )

Intel X99 Rig (Officially Decommissioned, Dead CPU returned to Intel)

  • i7-8086K @ 5.1 GHz
  • Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master
  • Sapphire NITRO+ RX 6800 XT S.E + EKwb Quantum Vector Full Cover Waterblock
  • 32GB G.Skill TridentZ DDR4-3000 CL14 @ DDR-3400 custom CL15 timings
  • SanDisk 480 GB SSD + 1TB Samsung 860 EVO +  500GB Samsung 980 + 1TB WD SN750
  • EVGA SuperNOVA 850W P2 + Red/White CableMod Cables
  • Lian-Li O11 Dynamic EVO XL
  • Ekwb Custom loop + 2x EKwb Quantum Surface P360M Radiators
  • Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum + Corsair K70 (Red LED, anodized black, Cheery MX Browns)

AMD Ryzen Rig

  • AMD R7-5800X
  • Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro AC
  • 32GB (16GB X 2) Crucial Ballistix RGB DDR4-3600
  • Gigabyte Vision RTX 3060 Ti OC
  • EKwb D-RGB 360mm AIO
  • Intel 660p NVMe 1TB + Crucial MX500 1TB + WD Black 1TB HDD
  • EVGA P2 850W + White CableMod cables
  • Lian-Li LanCool II Mesh - White

Intel Z97 Rig (Decomissioned)

  • Intel i5-4690K 4.8 GHz
  • ASUS ROG Maximus VII Hero Z97
  • Sapphire Vapor-X HD 7950 EVGA GTX 1070 SC Black Edition ACX 3.0
  • 20 GB (8GB X 2 + 4GB X 1) Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 MHz
  • Corsair A50 air cooler  NZXT X61
  • Crucial MX500 1TB SSD + SanDisk Ultra II 240GB SSD + WD Caviar Black 1TB HDD + Kingston V300 120GB SSD [non-gimped version]
  • Antec New TruePower 550W EVGA G2 650W + White CableMod cables
  • Cooler Master HAF 912 White NZXT S340 Elite w/ white LED stips

AMD 990FX Rig (Decommissioned)

  • FX-8350 @ 4.8 / 4.9 GHz (given up on the 5.0 / 5.1 GHz attempt)
  • ASUS ROG Crosshair V Formula 990FX
  • 12 GB (4 GB X 3) G.Skill RipJawsX DDR3 @ 1866 MHz
  • Sapphire Vapor-X HD 7970 + Sapphire Dual-X HD 7970 in Crossfire  Sapphire NITRO R9-Fury in Crossfire *NONE*
  • Thermaltake Frio w/ Cooler Master JetFlo's in push-pull
  • Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD + Kingston V300 120GB SSD + WD Caviar Black 1TB HDD
  • Corsair TX850 (ver.1)
  • Cooler Master HAF 932

 

<> Electrical Engineer , B.Eng <>

<> Electronics & Computer Engineering Technologist (Diploma + Advanced Diploma) <>

<> Electronics Engineering Technician for the Canadian Department of National Defence <>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, PolishGod said:

Well good thing my motherboard doesn't keep the lights on when the PC is off because just turned the PSU off all the time with my old pc.

You can turn that off on all boards normally.

 

Also op what is the make and model of your psu?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

Another problem is motherboards used to use single-use Lithium cells for the CMOS which lasted up to 10 years.

 

A lot of modern ones assume you never turn the PSU off so use rechargeable with varying capacity, that can drain relatively quickly and may in fact wear out in a few years if you're using up charge cycles every day.

 

Are you not pushing it hard enough?  It should happen so briefly the noise would be hidden by the click of the button.

 

11 hours ago, -rascal- said:

 

Are you talking about the power switch (I/O) on the BACK of the PSU?

Why would you HOLD it in between I and O??

Can the power supply switch be left on all the time? Whenever I turned off  my PC, I also turned off the power switch. : r/pcmasterrace
 

You turn off your PSU

You hear sparks

You hold the button between 1 and 0 to see if the sparks keep coming.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, PolishGod said:

 

You turn off your PSU

You hear sparks

You hold the button between 1 and 0 to see if the sparks keep coming.

All of which happens in 100% of power switches (though you might not hear it as most the click is so loud and fast you wont hear the spark), which is why you absolutely do not do the last thing.

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz)
WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz) Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~800Mbit down, 115Mbit up)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, PolishGod said:

Oh can happen with psu's of that caliber.

 

Have it too with my rm1000 and seasonic prime 1000w az well as many higher wattage psu's.

 

It happens basically just dont flip the switch when you dont need to

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah maybe don't do that. This is what happens to the little metal piece inside the switch.

proxy-image.jpeg.13030190be94af14634a3e9d34a836ae.jpeg

 

Mine (also bQ!) makes a spark "pop!" sound, this happens because there's no relay inside... how to explain this. The switch is handling all the inrush current that goes to the PSU upon switching it on, if it had a relay inside then the switch would ONLY control that relay (actuator coil, it moves a set of contacts inside against each other and that conducts electricity), which in turn would turn on the power supply without arcing the switch.

In short (no pun): it's normal, that's the way it was designed.

 

This is a relay. Bottom contacts power the coil (what makes it work). Center contacts #3-4 is where power goes in, #1-2 are "normally closed" meaning power will flow through them when the coil is OFF, #5-6 are "normally open", no power will flow through them unless the coil is ON.

proxy-image2.thumb.jpeg.7fe67c91413d1254f8631329e9fb1f02.jpeg

This is useful for a bunch of reasons when you're building circuits but that's not of interest here.

Caroline doesn't need to hear all this, she's a highly trained professional.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

All of which happens in 100% of power switches (though you might not hear it as most the click is so loud and fast you wont hear the spark), which is why you absolutely do not do the last thing.

Well I'm a curious guy, I will go "What was that weird noise? Does it happen when the button is between on and off?" and check it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Caroline said:

Yeah maybe don't do that. This is what happens to the little metal piece inside the switch.

proxy-image.jpeg.13030190be94af14634a3e9d34a836ae.jpeg

 

Mine (also bQ!) makes a spark "pop!" sound, this happens because there's no relay inside... how to explain this. The switch is handling all the inrush current that goes to the PSU upon switching it on, if it had a relay inside then the switch would ONLY control that relay (actuator coil, it moves a set of contacts inside against each other and that conducts electricity), which in turn would turn on the power supply without arcing the switch.

In short (no pun): it's normal, that's the way it was designed.

 

This is a relay. Bottom contacts power the coil (what makes it work). Center contacts #3-4 is where power goes in, #1-2 are "normally closed" meaning power will flow through them when the coil is OFF, #5-6 are "normally open", no power will flow through them unless the coil is ON.

proxy-image2.thumb.jpeg.7fe67c91413d1254f8631329e9fb1f02.jpeg

This is useful for a bunch of reasons when you're building circuits but that's not of interest here.

Can we speak Swedish? English is superconfusing, is it a bottom that contacts power the soil or is it a bottom and a contact?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 3/27/2024 at 10:45 PM, PolishGod said:

Wdym why would I do this, it literally does that sparking sound when I use the button normally.

yeah... that just sounds like goalpost moving now.

 

On 3/27/2024 at 10:51 AM, PolishGod said:

if I hold the button between 1 and 0 the noise keeps coming

...

 

you're actively damaging it by doing this.

 

as others have said the switch isnt meant for daily use and certainly not to play around with it.

 

10 hours ago, PolishGod said:

You hold the button between 1 and 0 to see if the sparks keep coming.

no you don't if you know *anything* about electronics. 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, PolishGod said:

Can we speak Swedish? English is superconfusing, is it a bottom that contacts power the soil or is it a bottom and a contact?

But I don't know Swedish :old-laugh: If you're asking about the relay wiring (it's what I can make out of that comment) there are different ways to power one depending on what kind of power you're using, some have 100V AC coils, others 220V AC, 120V DC, 12V DC, etc. but you can use the actual relay contacts (not the coil) to switch on/off circuits with any voltage that doesn't necessarily matches that of the coil, i.e you could use a relay with a 240V coil to switch a 12V lighting circuit, think dichroic halogen lamps, poolside lighting, sauna stuff, anything that operates on a voltage lower than mains. You can also do polarity reversal for AC motors, switch between say 12 and 24V for devices that require it, pretty much anything that involves switching things on and off.

 

Air conditioners, heat pumps and other large devices use a bigger kind of relay called contactor, it works exactly the same way as miniature ones do, but it's made to handle a lot more current and higher voltages, the metallic clack sound sometimes can be heard from air conditioners is that contactor turning the motor on.

asa_hvac.png.27af686285174f93a3066b1a38bc1c27.png

 

Just don't "keep the switch between 0 and 1", that's bad. And no, you can't add a relay to your power supply. Well, it's possible but you wouldn't be able to do it, and I won't tell you how to do it. Just leave the poor switch alone lmao, if you want to turn off the PSU get a power strip with a switch, or unplug it.

Caroline doesn't need to hear all this, she's a highly trained professional.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 3/28/2024 at 11:39 PM, Mark Kaine said:

yeah... that just sounds like goalpost moving now.

 

...

 

you're actively damaging it by doing this.

 

as others have said the switch isnt meant for daily use and certainly not to play around with it.

 

no you don't if you know *anything* about electronics. 

I've built computers, made ethernet cables shorter and I was never told the button on a PSU is fragile.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 3/29/2024 at 12:13 AM, Caroline said:

But I don't know Swedish :old-laugh: If you're asking about the relay wiring (it's what I can make out of that comment) there are different ways to power one depending on what kind of power you're using, some have 100V AC coils, others 220V AC, 120V DC, 12V DC, etc. but you can use the actual relay contacts (not the coil) to switch on/off circuits with any voltage that doesn't necessarily matches that of the coil, i.e you could use a relay with a 240V coil to switch a 12V lighting circuit, think dichroic halogen lamps, poolside lighting, sauna stuff, anything that operates on a voltage lower than mains. You can also do polarity reversal for AC motors, switch between say 12 and 24V for devices that require it, pretty much anything that involves switching things on and off.

 

Air conditioners, heat pumps and other large devices use a bigger kind of relay called contactor, it works exactly the same way as miniature ones do, but it's made to handle a lot more current and higher voltages, the metallic clack sound sometimes can be heard from air conditioners is that contactor turning the motor on.

asa_hvac.png.27af686285174f93a3066b1a38bc1c27.png

 

Just don't "keep the switch between 0 and 1", that's bad. And no, you can't add a relay to your power supply. Well, it's possible but you wouldn't be able to do it, and I won't tell you how to do it. Just leave the poor switch alone lmao, if you want to turn off the PSU get a power strip with a switch, or unplug it.

Well my new motherboard doesn't keep any lights on so I don't use the switch and if you don't tell me how to add a relay to my psu, I will wait for you in the minecraft arena and get you when you step inside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×