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Can low amperage affect the performance of / damage my components?

KageSong
By KageSong
in Power Supplies
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1 minute ago, Vishera said:

Dirty power is a power problem that can make computers act up,a UPS can help with that.

I'm using a UPS. That's why I'm very confused. I don't use a UPS at my dad's and have zero problems, other than the issues that point to damage over time.

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8 minutes ago, KageSong said:

The only difference between the two houses is amperage, where my dad's is properly at 200 amps, and my breaker only handles 100. Hence the nature of my question.

This is not a variable that will cause the issues you're experiencing.

 

Let's devolve electricity into water in a hose. We want to make sure that the water to the whole house doesn't go over 100 gal/sec (amps) at 120 PSI (volts). Your computer needs 5 gallon/sec at 120 PSI. As long as you're under 100 gal/sec (which you are), there isn't a problem with the system; when you go over (say if the hose break and there's nothing to stop the flow (short circuit)), the breaker shuts off the water to prevent damage/waste.

 

12 minutes ago, KageSong said:

I'm on a UPS. That's how I know my wattage and voltage are consistent.

Then this is very much not a power problem.

 

16 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

I dont get how different networking can cause memory issues, computers can run without networking to begin with.

RAM issues don't generally manifest in only dropped frames; usually it's whole system instability and file corruption.

Main System (Byarlant): Ryzen 7 5800X | Asus B550-Creator ProArt | EK 240mm Basic AIO | 16GB G.Skill DDR4 3200MT/s CAS-14 | XFX Speedster SWFT 210 RX 6600 | Samsung 990 PRO 2TB / Samsung 960 PRO 512GB / 4× Crucial MX500 2TB (RAID-0) | Corsair RM750X | Mellanox ConnectX-3 10G NIC | Inateck USB 3.0 Card | Hyte Y60 Case | Dell U3415W Monitor | Keychron K4 Brown (white backlight)

 

Laptop (Narrative): Lenovo Flex 5 81X20005US | Ryzen 5 4500U | 16GB RAM (soldered) | Vega 6 Graphics | SKHynix P31 1TB NVMe SSD | Intel AX200 Wifi (all-around awesome machine)

 

Proxmox Server (Veda): Ryzen 7 3800XT | AsRock Rack X470D4U | Corsair H80i v2 | 64GB Micron DDR4 ECC 3200MT/s | 4x 10TB WD Whites / 4x 14TB Seagate Exos / 2× Samsung PM963a 960GB SSD | Seasonic Prime Fanless 500W | Intel X540-T2 10G NIC | LSI 9207-8i HBA | Fractal Design Node 804 Case (side panels swapped to show off drives) | VMs: TrueNAS Scale; Ubuntu Server (PiHole/PiVPN/NGINX?); Windows 10 Pro; Ubuntu Server (Apache/MySQL)


Media Center/Video Capture (Jesta Cannon): Ryzen 5 1600X | ASRock B450M Pro4 R2.0 | Noctua NH-L12S | 16GB Crucial DDR4 3200MT/s CAS-22 | EVGA GTX750Ti SC | UMIS NVMe SSD 256GB / Seagate 1.5TB HDD | Corsair CX450M | Viewcast Osprey 260e Video Capture | Mellanox ConnectX-2 10G NIC | LG UH12NS30 BD-ROM | Silverstone Sugo SG-11 Case | Sony XR65A80K

 

Camera: Sony ɑ7II w/ Meike Grip | Sony SEL24240 | Samyang 35mm ƒ/2.8 | Sony SEL50F18F | Sony SEL2870 (kit lens) | PNY Elite Perfomance 512GB SDXC card

 

Network:

Spoiler 
                           ┌─────────────── Office/Rack ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
Google Fiber Webpass ────── UniFi Security Gateway ─── UniFi Switch 8-60W ─┬─ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Veda (Proxmox Virtual Switch)
(500Mbps↑/500Mbps↓)                             UniFi CloudKey Gen2 (PoE) ─┴─ Veda (IPMI)           ╠═ Veda-NAS (HW Passthrough NIC)
╔═══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════╩═ Narrative (Asus USB 2.5G NIC)
║ ┌────── Closet ──────┐   ┌─────────────── Bedroom ──────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
╚═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╤═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Byarlant
   (PoE)                 │                        ╠═ Narrative (Cable Matters USB-PD 2.5G Ethernet Dongle)
                         │                        ╚═ Jesta Cannon*
                         │ ┌─────────────── Media Center ──────────────────────────────────┐
Notes:                   └─ UniFi Switch 8 ─────────┬─ UniFi Access Point nanoHD (PoE)
═══ is Multi-Gigabit                                ├─ Sony Playstation 4 
─── is Gigabit                                      ├─ Pioneer VSX-S520
* = cable passed to Bedroom from Media Center       ├─ Sony XR65A80K (Google TV)
** = cable passed from Media Center to Bedroom      └─ Work Laptop** (Startech USB-PD Dock)

 

Retired/Other:

Spoiler

Laptop (Rozen-Zulu): Sony VAIO VPCF13WFX | Core i7-740QM | 8GB Patriot DDR3 | GT 425M | Samsung 850EVO 250GB SSD | Blu-ray Drive | Intel 7260 Wifi (lived a good life, retired with honor)

Testbed/Old Desktop (Kshatriya): Xeon X5470 @ 4.0GHz | ZALMAN CNPS9500 | Gigabyte EP45-UD3L | 8GB Nanya DDR2 400MHz | XFX HD6870 DD | OCZ Vertex 3 Max-IOPS 120GB | Corsair CX430M | HooToo USB 3.0 PCIe Card | Osprey 230 Video Capture | NZXT H230 Case

TrueNAS Server (La Vie en Rose): Xeon E3-1241v3 | Supermicro X10SLL-F | Corsair H60 | 32GB Micron DDR3L ECC 1600MHz | 1x Kingston 16GB SSD / Crucial MX500 500GB

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2 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

Best gaming PCs with 2 graphics cards dont even exceed 15 amps even if your country uses 100V power (10900k OC = 300w, 2x RTX 3090 OC = 800w, 1.3x counting for inefficiencies and other components), 100A breaker to 200A breaker makes no difference. If it does, those breakers are way overrated compared to their actual capability.

I'm just saying that is the only difference between the locations.

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Just now, Jurrunio said:

Best gaming PCs with 2 graphics cards dont even exceed 15 amps even if your country uses 100V power (10900k OC = 300w, 2x RTX 3090 OC = 800w, 1.3x counting for inefficiencies and other components), 100A breaker to 200A breaker makes no difference. If it does, those breakers are way overrated compared to their actual capability.

The problem can be something else,but there is not enough information to know what's the source of the problem.

48 minutes ago, KageSong said:

The first thing I noticed, and biggest, was during the Port Royal benchmark, where the lighting began shifting separately from the rest of the scene. Kind of like screen tearing, but the lighting separating from the rest.

Please record that and post here.

A PC Enthusiast since 2011
AMD Ryzen 7 5700X@4.65GHz | GIGABYTE GTX 1660 GAMING OC @ Core 2085MHz Memory 5000MHz
Cinebench R23: 15669cb | Unigine Superposition 1080p Extreme: 3566
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Just now, KageSong said:

I'm using a UPS. That's why I'm very confused. I don't use a UPS at my dad's and have zero problems, other than the issues that point to damage over time.

It could be the power supply,what power supply do you have?

A PC Enthusiast since 2011
AMD Ryzen 7 5700X@4.65GHz | GIGABYTE GTX 1660 GAMING OC @ Core 2085MHz Memory 5000MHz
Cinebench R23: 15669cb | Unigine Superposition 1080p Extreme: 3566
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1 minute ago, Vishera said:

The problem can be something else,but there is not enough information to know what's the source of the problem.

Please record that and post here.

I guess ... I'd have to record from my phone?

 

Also, yeah maybe something else, but the only difference I know of is amperage, and my ISP noted amperage fluctuation in my modem, which is also related to amperage. We also have lights that flash out constantly, which is also related to power.

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1 minute ago, Vishera said:

It could be the power supply,what power supply do you have?

Same problems across 3 psus. Currently PowerSpec 750 Watt.

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5 minutes ago, KageSong said:

It's also been tested by an electrician, which is how I found that the breaker only accepts 100 amps. My dad has also tested the outlets with his own equipment.

  Is that a certified electrician or a charlatan?

If you suspect that you have power issues in your house,call a certified electrician and explain him the problem,if it's not solved then it's a charlatan.

Also the certificate must be real,not a fake made up one.

Just now, KageSong said:

Same problems across 3 psus. Currently PowerSpec 750 Watt.

Are the other 2 cheap crap as well?

If you want your computer to run well in a house with power problems then at least invest in a high quality power supply.

A PC Enthusiast since 2011
AMD Ryzen 7 5700X@4.65GHz | GIGABYTE GTX 1660 GAMING OC @ Core 2085MHz Memory 5000MHz
Cinebench R23: 15669cb | Unigine Superposition 1080p Extreme: 3566
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7 hours ago, Vishera said:

  Is that a certified electrician or a charlatan?

If you suspect that you have power issues in your house,call a certified electrician and explain him the problem,if it's not solved then it's a charlatan.

Also the certificate must be real,not a fake made up one.

Are the other 2 cheap crap as well?

If you want your computer to run well in a house with power problems then at least invest in a high quality power supply.

Okay, you can just stop on this thread. Judging peoples' equipment like that, and assuming we're too damned stupid to hire a state certified electrician, or that I'm too damn stupid to understand the equipment myself is not productive. So, politely buzz off.

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4 hours ago, LogicalDrm said:

-> Moved to Power Supplies

Not a power supply problem. Thanks.

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1 hour ago, KageSong said:

Not a power supply problem. Thanks.

Also not PC Gaming where you originally posted this. I can move this to Troubleshooting, but since it's power-related, I think this is fine.

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Posted

People are pointing out you're looking in the wrong place, and they're right. The stupid 100A breaker has nothing to do with the whole issue at all. A breaker is nothing more than a switch that opens when you draw too much current. When closed, it does absolutely nothing to the current going into your house. That's sort of its very purpose.

 

Now here's something people have pointed out several times, but you seem to just not get it, so here it is again: Power = Voltage x current (or in your language, "wattage = voltage x amperage"

 

This means that if your "wattage" and voltage are fine, then your current is automatically fine as well, because if it wasn't, the "wattage" would show a wrong number.

 

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7 hours ago, LogicalDrm said:

Also not PC Gaming where you originally posted this. I can move this to Troubleshooting, but since it's power-related, I think this is fine.

Okay, just last time I posted a topic like this, it got moved from troubleshooting to PC gaming.

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4 hours ago, akio123008 said:

People are pointing out you're looking in the wrong place, and they're right. The stupid 100A breaker has nothing to do with the whole issue at all. A breaker is nothing more than a switch that opens when you draw too much current. When closed, it does absolutely nothing to the current going into your house. That's sort of its very purpose.

 

Now here's something people have pointed out several times, but you seem to just not get it, so here it is again: Power = Voltage x current (or in your language, "wattage = voltage x amperage"

 

This means that if your "wattage" and voltage are fine, then your current is automatically fine as well, because if it wasn't, the "wattage" would show a wrong number.

 

And I'm trying to explain that the ONLY DIFFERENCE is the location, my house or my dad's, and the only significant difference between the two houses is power from the 60s, and power from the 90s, with the only big difference there being the amperage coming into the house vs. what the box can handle. Yet, people choose to basically say I'm too stupid to know what I'm talking about and that it must be the computer, or I need a UPS I already have, etc. Occam's razor dictates that it is the house.

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2 minutes ago, KageSong said:

Okay, just last time I posted a topic like this, it got moved from troubleshooting to PC gaming.

If you are talking about this:

IIRC it was posted to General Discussion. We don't move threads around just for fun, please post to correct subforum in future.

^^^^ That's my post ^^^^
<-- This is me --- That's your scrollbar -->
vvvv Who's there? vvvv

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1 minute ago, LogicalDrm said:

If you are talking about this:

IIRC it was posted to General Discussion. We don't move threads around just for fun, please post to correct subforum in future.

I can only post to what I think is accurate. I suffer from mental disability, and made what I thought was the best choice based on my previous experience, all I can do. And no, I didn't mean that... I didn't think. I might remember incorrectly, again, mentally disabled.

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2 minutes ago, KageSong said:

the two houses is power from the 60s, and power from the 90s

No difference. Just wires and switches. There is no "modern power" and "old power". 

 

 

2 minutes ago, KageSong said:

the amperage coming into the house vs. what the box can handle.

current is pulled, not pushed.

 

Just that you have a cable that can in theory handle 200A, doesn't mean there's 200A being drawn. 

 

It's very simple really; you have a 100A breaker: if you draw more than 100A, the breaker opens, the power's out. Your breaker doesn't open, so you're not drawing more than 100A. Therefore the electrical system is OK.

 

On top of this, "dirty power" doesn't affect the performance of your computer. The power supply in your computer always outputs a steady 12V to the components, whatever happens to the mains power coming into it. Therefore dirty power doesn't cause performance issues.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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14 minutes ago, KageSong said:

Yet, people choose to basically say I'm too stupid to know what I'm talking about

I never said that. I (and several others) tried explaining why your conclusion is incorrect using the knowledge I have a degree in (electrical engineer here), but you're going to instead play the victim card and claim we're bullying you because you're smarter than the rest of us and we're all wrong.

 

Open your mind to the idea you might be wrong.

Main System (Byarlant): Ryzen 7 5800X | Asus B550-Creator ProArt | EK 240mm Basic AIO | 16GB G.Skill DDR4 3200MT/s CAS-14 | XFX Speedster SWFT 210 RX 6600 | Samsung 990 PRO 2TB / Samsung 960 PRO 512GB / 4× Crucial MX500 2TB (RAID-0) | Corsair RM750X | Mellanox ConnectX-3 10G NIC | Inateck USB 3.0 Card | Hyte Y60 Case | Dell U3415W Monitor | Keychron K4 Brown (white backlight)

 

Laptop (Narrative): Lenovo Flex 5 81X20005US | Ryzen 5 4500U | 16GB RAM (soldered) | Vega 6 Graphics | SKHynix P31 1TB NVMe SSD | Intel AX200 Wifi (all-around awesome machine)

 

Proxmox Server (Veda): Ryzen 7 3800XT | AsRock Rack X470D4U | Corsair H80i v2 | 64GB Micron DDR4 ECC 3200MT/s | 4x 10TB WD Whites / 4x 14TB Seagate Exos / 2× Samsung PM963a 960GB SSD | Seasonic Prime Fanless 500W | Intel X540-T2 10G NIC | LSI 9207-8i HBA | Fractal Design Node 804 Case (side panels swapped to show off drives) | VMs: TrueNAS Scale; Ubuntu Server (PiHole/PiVPN/NGINX?); Windows 10 Pro; Ubuntu Server (Apache/MySQL)


Media Center/Video Capture (Jesta Cannon): Ryzen 5 1600X | ASRock B450M Pro4 R2.0 | Noctua NH-L12S | 16GB Crucial DDR4 3200MT/s CAS-22 | EVGA GTX750Ti SC | UMIS NVMe SSD 256GB / Seagate 1.5TB HDD | Corsair CX450M | Viewcast Osprey 260e Video Capture | Mellanox ConnectX-2 10G NIC | LG UH12NS30 BD-ROM | Silverstone Sugo SG-11 Case | Sony XR65A80K

 

Camera: Sony ɑ7II w/ Meike Grip | Sony SEL24240 | Samyang 35mm ƒ/2.8 | Sony SEL50F18F | Sony SEL2870 (kit lens) | PNY Elite Perfomance 512GB SDXC card

 

Network:

Spoiler 
                           ┌─────────────── Office/Rack ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
Google Fiber Webpass ────── UniFi Security Gateway ─── UniFi Switch 8-60W ─┬─ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Veda (Proxmox Virtual Switch)
(500Mbps↑/500Mbps↓)                             UniFi CloudKey Gen2 (PoE) ─┴─ Veda (IPMI)           ╠═ Veda-NAS (HW Passthrough NIC)
╔═══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════╩═ Narrative (Asus USB 2.5G NIC)
║ ┌────── Closet ──────┐   ┌─────────────── Bedroom ──────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
╚═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╤═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Byarlant
   (PoE)                 │                        ╠═ Narrative (Cable Matters USB-PD 2.5G Ethernet Dongle)
                         │                        ╚═ Jesta Cannon*
                         │ ┌─────────────── Media Center ──────────────────────────────────┐
Notes:                   └─ UniFi Switch 8 ─────────┬─ UniFi Access Point nanoHD (PoE)
═══ is Multi-Gigabit                                ├─ Sony Playstation 4 
─── is Gigabit                                      ├─ Pioneer VSX-S520
* = cable passed to Bedroom from Media Center       ├─ Sony XR65A80K (Google TV)
** = cable passed from Media Center to Bedroom      └─ Work Laptop** (Startech USB-PD Dock)

 

Retired/Other:

Spoiler

Laptop (Rozen-Zulu): Sony VAIO VPCF13WFX | Core i7-740QM | 8GB Patriot DDR3 | GT 425M | Samsung 850EVO 250GB SSD | Blu-ray Drive | Intel 7260 Wifi (lived a good life, retired with honor)

Testbed/Old Desktop (Kshatriya): Xeon X5470 @ 4.0GHz | ZALMAN CNPS9500 | Gigabyte EP45-UD3L | 8GB Nanya DDR2 400MHz | XFX HD6870 DD | OCZ Vertex 3 Max-IOPS 120GB | Corsair CX430M | HooToo USB 3.0 PCIe Card | Osprey 230 Video Capture | NZXT H230 Case

TrueNAS Server (La Vie en Rose): Xeon E3-1241v3 | Supermicro X10SLL-F | Corsair H60 | 32GB Micron DDR3L ECC 1600MHz | 1x Kingston 16GB SSD / Crucial MX500 500GB

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Just now, akio123008 said:

No difference. Just wires and switches. There is no "modern power" and "old power". 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Except that like I said, it IS THE ONLY DIFFERENCE. I only have performance issues at my house. Apply Occam's razor, or quit wasting my time.

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Just now, AbydosOne said:

I never said that. I (and several others) tried explaining why your conclusion is incorrect using the knowledge I have a degree in (electrical engineer here), but you're going to instead play the victim card and claim we bullying you because you're smarter than the rest of us and we're all wrong.

 

Open your mind to the idea you might be wrong.

I have pointed out MANY TIMES that the performance issues only affect my my computer at MY HOUSE. There is a single conclusion. The performance is not tied to only internet or anything else. I also noted that the ISP has reported amperage fluctuation in their modem, and explained that that would be caused by the amperage problem in the house. So, you can call me stupid all you want, but I'm applying Occam's razor to empirical evidence. No one is answering my question, only saying I'm stupid for asking it.

 

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Just now, KageSong said:

Except that like I said, it IS THE ONLY DIFFERENCE. I only have performance issues at my house. Apply Occam's razor, or quit wasting my time.

Occam's razor doesn't say "OP is right"; Occam's razor says "the simplest answer is most likely right". We are people who know about this subject, and we're trying to tell you that what you think is this issue is not causing your problems.

 

Provide some benchmark or screen capture or something tangible that shows that your "loss of performance" is anything more than placebo effect.

 

Just now, KageSong said:

ISP has reported amperage fluctuation in their modem

That means literally nothing. Modems don't measure current or voltage because they almost universally powered with a external power supply (wall wart / power brick) that doesn't have the ability to communicate power draw.

 

1 minute ago, KageSong said:

and explained that that would be caused by the amperage problem in the house.

Why would an ISP help desk person know anything about home electrical wiring? It's garbage information and is patently wrong.

 

2 minutes ago, KageSong said:

No one is answering my question, only saying I'm stupid for asking it.

We tried answering it, and you didn't like our answer. Why should we keep trying to help you?

Main System (Byarlant): Ryzen 7 5800X | Asus B550-Creator ProArt | EK 240mm Basic AIO | 16GB G.Skill DDR4 3200MT/s CAS-14 | XFX Speedster SWFT 210 RX 6600 | Samsung 990 PRO 2TB / Samsung 960 PRO 512GB / 4× Crucial MX500 2TB (RAID-0) | Corsair RM750X | Mellanox ConnectX-3 10G NIC | Inateck USB 3.0 Card | Hyte Y60 Case | Dell U3415W Monitor | Keychron K4 Brown (white backlight)

 

Laptop (Narrative): Lenovo Flex 5 81X20005US | Ryzen 5 4500U | 16GB RAM (soldered) | Vega 6 Graphics | SKHynix P31 1TB NVMe SSD | Intel AX200 Wifi (all-around awesome machine)

 

Proxmox Server (Veda): Ryzen 7 3800XT | AsRock Rack X470D4U | Corsair H80i v2 | 64GB Micron DDR4 ECC 3200MT/s | 4x 10TB WD Whites / 4x 14TB Seagate Exos / 2× Samsung PM963a 960GB SSD | Seasonic Prime Fanless 500W | Intel X540-T2 10G NIC | LSI 9207-8i HBA | Fractal Design Node 804 Case (side panels swapped to show off drives) | VMs: TrueNAS Scale; Ubuntu Server (PiHole/PiVPN/NGINX?); Windows 10 Pro; Ubuntu Server (Apache/MySQL)


Media Center/Video Capture (Jesta Cannon): Ryzen 5 1600X | ASRock B450M Pro4 R2.0 | Noctua NH-L12S | 16GB Crucial DDR4 3200MT/s CAS-22 | EVGA GTX750Ti SC | UMIS NVMe SSD 256GB / Seagate 1.5TB HDD | Corsair CX450M | Viewcast Osprey 260e Video Capture | Mellanox ConnectX-2 10G NIC | LG UH12NS30 BD-ROM | Silverstone Sugo SG-11 Case | Sony XR65A80K

 

Camera: Sony ɑ7II w/ Meike Grip | Sony SEL24240 | Samyang 35mm ƒ/2.8 | Sony SEL50F18F | Sony SEL2870 (kit lens) | PNY Elite Perfomance 512GB SDXC card

 

Network:

Spoiler 
                           ┌─────────────── Office/Rack ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
Google Fiber Webpass ────── UniFi Security Gateway ─── UniFi Switch 8-60W ─┬─ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Veda (Proxmox Virtual Switch)
(500Mbps↑/500Mbps↓)                             UniFi CloudKey Gen2 (PoE) ─┴─ Veda (IPMI)           ╠═ Veda-NAS (HW Passthrough NIC)
╔═══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════╩═ Narrative (Asus USB 2.5G NIC)
║ ┌────── Closet ──────┐   ┌─────────────── Bedroom ──────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
╚═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╤═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Byarlant
   (PoE)                 │                        ╠═ Narrative (Cable Matters USB-PD 2.5G Ethernet Dongle)
                         │                        ╚═ Jesta Cannon*
                         │ ┌─────────────── Media Center ──────────────────────────────────┐
Notes:                   └─ UniFi Switch 8 ─────────┬─ UniFi Access Point nanoHD (PoE)
═══ is Multi-Gigabit                                ├─ Sony Playstation 4 
─── is Gigabit                                      ├─ Pioneer VSX-S520
* = cable passed to Bedroom from Media Center       ├─ Sony XR65A80K (Google TV)
** = cable passed from Media Center to Bedroom      └─ Work Laptop** (Startech USB-PD Dock)

 

Retired/Other:

Spoiler

Laptop (Rozen-Zulu): Sony VAIO VPCF13WFX | Core i7-740QM | 8GB Patriot DDR3 | GT 425M | Samsung 850EVO 250GB SSD | Blu-ray Drive | Intel 7260 Wifi (lived a good life, retired with honor)

Testbed/Old Desktop (Kshatriya): Xeon X5470 @ 4.0GHz | ZALMAN CNPS9500 | Gigabyte EP45-UD3L | 8GB Nanya DDR2 400MHz | XFX HD6870 DD | OCZ Vertex 3 Max-IOPS 120GB | Corsair CX430M | HooToo USB 3.0 PCIe Card | Osprey 230 Video Capture | NZXT H230 Case

TrueNAS Server (La Vie en Rose): Xeon E3-1241v3 | Supermicro X10SLL-F | Corsair H60 | 32GB Micron DDR3L ECC 1600MHz | 1x Kingston 16GB SSD / Crucial MX500 500GB

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Posted
9 minutes ago, KageSong said:

reported amperage fluctuation

Ok...... I'll repeat.... once more.... AMPS ARE PULLED You really don't grasp the concept of electric current (amperage).

 

Aside from that:

9 minutes ago, KageSong said:

have pointed out MANY TIMES that the performance issues only affect my my computer at MY HOUSE. There is a single conclusion

You THINK you've ruled everything out. You THINK there's nothing else that could be the problem. And that's exactly where things go wrong; there's quite possibly something else you've missed. Something else you didn't think of. 

 

If you don't believe us, go ahead and hire an electrician to replace that stupid electrical box for a fortune, and then experience the problem's still there. We're just trying to help you out finding the real issue, so that you don't end up applying fixes that don't work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted
16 minutes ago, KageSong said:

Except that like I said, it IS THE ONLY DIFFERENCE. I only have performance issues at my house. Apply Occam's razor, or quit wasting my time.

Yeah feel free to change it, just dont change it to a higher current one because that's removing protection for the house.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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I believe this has run its course.

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