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About OrionFOTL

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  1. Not really. Given that your entire PC tops out at around 100W total power consumption, a very low quality 600W unit is a bad choice. A good quality 350-450W PSU would be a better choice. You can post your budget and links to online shops you use, if you want us to help pick a better one.
  2. Just so you know, that message doesn't come from the computer, and doesn't mean the computer went into sleep or power saving mode. That message comes from the monitor itself, and it means the monitor stopped receiving any input and thus enters power saving mode.
  3. You defined the type "Door" yourself, correct? Where did you define it?
  4. The one that matches sockets used in your country.
  5. Yes, they have different sockets. The second one uses Schuko sockets.
  6. CS is quite old by now, and it only has 3 year warranty. You should tell us what hardware you're choosing a PSU for, your budget for it and which stores you're using (if outside the USA).
  7. ... The literal ATX specification. LOL. Point 3.3.3. https://www.intel.co.jp/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/design-guides/resellers-power-supply-design-guide-changes.pdf 0-0.8V low, 2V high, and none or at most -5.25V open circuit. The signal has no relation to the +5VSB rail. In fact, on ATX12VO power supplies, it's behavior and specifications don't change at all: it's the same 0-0.8V for low state, 2V for high and at most -5.25V open circuit. https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/guides/single-rail-power-supply-platform-atx12vo-design-guide.pdf
  8. Not at all. ATX PSUs use the PS_ON pin (a 0V - 2V signal) to turn themselves on/off.
  9. You're saying there are no bad PSUs that can't output their rated power, and that there are only bad PSUs with bad multiple rail config. That's not true. What you're describing is a very valid issue, and certainly relevant to this topic, but cheap power supplies with completely fake, inflated power ratings (like a PSU with output diodes rated for 250W total, yet the sticker on the PSU claiming it can do 500W) is a far more widespread problem than PSUs which are capable of outputting their full rated power, except having poorly designed OCP limits on their 12V rails. Let's not forget the t
  10. If your components draw more power than your PSU is rated for, they may trip its over-power protection which instantly shuts down the PSU. That's the only way an underpowered power supply can affect your components.
  11. Imagine going to a car forum and asking "I need a replacement headlamp". That's all the information provided. Get it?
  12. 1. 600VA doesn't equal 600W, which is why UPS have both maximum volt-ampere ratings and maximum watt ratings. 2. Maximum output power rating has nothing to do with how long it will work on battery. Battery capacity has everything to do with how long it will work on battery. If everything connected to your UPS attempts to draw more than 360W from the UPS, the UPS may trigger its over-power protection and shut down. As it stands right now, your desktop consumes far less than 100W under load.
  13. Why do that if you won't use the PC until you get a new PSU anyway?
  14. The case's manual would be the best place to find out.
  15. You have a trailing ; at the end of the if statement on line 28.