Jump to content

Do I have a dangerous PSU

So I was checking the PSU Tier List, and I saw that my power supply (XFX TS bronze), was under "Tier D - Potentially dangerous".

I would like to know what that exactly means, and should I change it?

Mine is a 430w one, is it enough for my system?

 

I5 8600k GTX 1660ti

 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Leonardo9717 said:

So I was checking the PSU Tier List, and I saw that my power supply (XFX TS bronze), was under "Tier D - Potentially dangerous".

I would like to know what that exactly means, and should I change it?

Mine is a 430w one, is it enough for my system?

 

Thanks.

That depends on what your system is.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

That depends on what your system is.

I5 8600k GTX 1660ti

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Leonardo9717 said:

I5 8600k GTX 1660ti

450w minimum. 

 

If nothing else your PSU is mega inefficient (and potentially dangerous) 

 

https://www.bequiet.com/en/psucalculator

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

450w minimum. 

 

If nothing else your PSU is mega inefficient (and potentially dangerous) 

 

https://www.bequiet.com/en/psucalculator

If anything this is probably the biggest reason to change your PSU, especially at bronze, you lose a lot of efficiency especially if you're basically sitting at max load at that point your just throwing away money that you could be using to buy a better PSU just to pay your power bill. You also bought a K sku, might as well beef up the PSU and overclock that sucker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

450w minimum. 

 

If nothing else your PSU is mega inefficient (and potentially dangerous) 

 

https://www.bequiet.com/en/psucalculator

this PC can't draw over 300 watts at load

 

but that isn't the main issue

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Labeled said:

If anything this is probably the biggest reason to change your PSU, especially at bronze, you lose a lot of efficiency especially if you're basically sitting at max load at that point your just throwing away money that you could be using to buy a better PSU just to pay your power bill. You also bought a K sku, might as well beef up the PSU and overclock that sucker.

Ok thanks for the advice, but I'm not overclocking, it's just for future profing. But is it just inefficiency? I actually don't pay electricity so it's not a big problem (Student, rented room).  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Fasauceome said:

this PC can't draw over 300 watts at load

 

but that isn't the main issue

Well I found this calculator is incredibly precise, there's another one that's similar but this one's easier to use. There will always be a safety margin in those calculators. 

 

And yeah it probably isn't. 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Mark Kaine said:

Well I found this calculator is incredibly precise

Did you test the figures?

 

I bought a watt meter myself to see if wattage calculators were any good, the vast majority slap a couple hundred watts or so on top of their calculations which is pretty excessive. Be quiet has a vested interest in you buying higher wattage, more expensive PSUs anyway. As you can see in my sig my PC draws only 400 watts, but type my specs into any calculator and it might say over 600

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

this PC can't draw over 300 watts at load

 

but that isn't the main issue

So what's the issue with that PSU?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

As you can see in my sig my PC draws only 400 watts, but type my specs into any calculator and it might say over 600

Yet you have a 650w PSU!  ? 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Leonardo9717 said:

So what's the issue with that PSU?

You're looking at an archaic design that was just "ok" several years ago, crap build quality, lack of protections of most kinds, overall it's not so great and if you're running hardware you care about it's not a good idea to keep using it.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Mark Kaine said:

Yet you have a 650w PSU!  ? 

It was on sale

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Fasauceome said:

Did you test the figures?

 

I bought a watt meter myself to see if wattage calculators were any good, the vast majority slap a couple hundred watts or so on top of their calculations which is pretty excessive. Be quiet has a vested interest in you buying higher wattage, more expensive PSUs anyway. As you can see in my sig my PC draws only 400 watts, but type my specs into any calculator and it might say over 600

I went a grabbed a few readings from reviews and averaged them, sitting at 390W under load with just the CPU&GPU. If it was more than it could handle then it would just shut off unless that OCP(Over current protection) is the dangerous part then you'd just fry something potentially.

 

 

If you HAVE the PSU already, and it's working fine. stop psyching yourself out and just enjoy your PC don't look for problems that might not even exist.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Labeled said:

went a grabbed a few readings from reviews and averaged them, sitting at 390W under load with just the CPU&GPU

From where? Tomshardware has the 8600K with a 4.9 GHz OC at 160 watts in a synthetic bench, and a 1660 ti reaching only 130 in furmark

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Leonardo9717 said:

So what's the issue with that PSU?

Efficiency. And the being dangerous thing. 

Like it'll likely be mostly running at it's max and that isn't good,  it'll break sooner than it should, produce a lot of heat, and so on. 

 

Basically you want to be around 50-70% efficiency,  you're at 90+ ! 

 

You should probably also get a better brand I guess. 

 

Most defects in PCs actually happen because of cheap and too weak PSUs, also something to keep in mind. 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I do kinda wish they listed those “specific situations”

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Bombastinator said:

I do kinda wish they listed those “specific situations”

Yeah,  lol. That would have been helpful...

Missing protections and such I suppose. 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Btw, sorry to bother, but why is Corsair CX(2017) tier B+, and Corsair CXM(2017) tier B? @Fasauceome Isn't it that only difference is that one is modular and the other one is not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Leonardo9717 said:

Btw, sorry to bother, but why is Corsair CX(2017) tier B+, and Corsair CXM(2017) tier B? @Fasauceome Isn't it that only difference is that one is modular and the other one is not?

the CXM is a couple years older, completely different internal design

 

corsair markets them as the same but they're not

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

My Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850W PSUs used to be A tier. Then one day they became dangerous. 

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

May go by model year more than model or brand.  Yours probably weren’t because you already bought them.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, Plutosaurus said:

My Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850W PSUs used to be A tier. Then one day they became dangerous. 

Reading the tomshardware review, I can see why. Though, given the methodology employed by the tier list I believe the rather lax ~138% OPP trigger point is probably what knocked it down. Also, it is "Potentially dangerous, but only in rather unrealistic situations", which is totally reasonable given the rather... unrealistic nature of unrealistic scenarios.

Brands I wholeheartedly reccomend (though do have flawed products): Apple, Razer, Corsair, Asus, Gigabyte, bequiet!, Noctua, Fractal, GSkill (RAM only)

Wall Of Fame (Informative people/People I like): @Glenwing @DrMacintosh @Schnoz @TempestCatto @LogicalDrm @Dan Castellaneta

Useful threads: 

How To Make Your Own Cloud Storage

Spoiler

 

Guide to Display Cables/Adapters

Spoiler

 

PSU Tier List (Latest)-

Spoiler

 

 

Main PC: See spoiler tag

Laptop: 2020 iPad Pro 12.9" with Magic Keyboard

Spoiler

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gKh8zN

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core OEM/Tray Processor  (Purchased For $419.99) 
Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Formula ATX AM4 Motherboard  (Purchased For $356.99) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (Purchased For $130.00) 
Storage: Kingston Predator 240 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $40.00) 
Storage: Crucial MX300 1.05 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Storage: Western Digital Red 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $180.00) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card  (Purchased For $370.00) 
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMi 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $120.00) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  (Purchased For $75.00) 
Total: $1891.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-02 19:59 EDT-0400

身のなわたしはる果てぞ  悲しわたしはかりけるわたしは

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, SenKa said:

Reading the tomshardware review, I can see why. Though, given the methodology employed by the tier list I believe the rather lax ~138% OPP trigger point is probably what knocked it down. Also, it is "Potentially dangerous, but only in rather unrealistic situations", which is totally reasonable given the rather... unrealistic nature of unrealistic scenarios.

 

I purchased it based on a jonnyguru review which indicated they were amazing units

 

https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2017/09/18/seasonic-focus-plus-850-gold-power-supply/

 

But mine are both 2+ years old

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×