Do I have a dangerous PSU

[Spotty]

4 hours ago, Mark Kaine said:

If nothing else your PSU is mega inefficient (and potentially dangerous) 

 

4 hours ago, Mark Kaine said:

Basically you want to be around 50-70% efficiency,  you're at 90+ ! 

That's not what efficiency means.

 

You definitely do not want a power supply operating at 50% efficiency. That would mean for every 100W the system uses, 200W would be drawn from the outlet with the remaining 100W wasted as heat energy. 

You want efficiency of a power supply to be as high as possible. High efficiency power supplies are typically around 90% efficient across most of the load range (20-100% load). With a power supply that is 90% efficient for every 100w the system uses you're drawing around 111w from the outlet, with only 11w wasted.

[SenKa]

3 minutes ago, Plutosaurus said:

 

I purchased it based on a jonnyguru review which indicated they were amazing units

 

https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2017/09/18/seasonic-focus-plus-850-gold-power-supply/

 

But mine are both 2+ years old

Here is the toms hardware review: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-850-psu,5247-12.html

 

From a brief skim of the jonnyguru review, it seems he tested far more realistic scenarios for a modern system, as compared to the review on tomshardware being more of a torture test. Kind of like using 3DMark to validate a computer's performance over Prime95 and Furmark.

 

As I noted, most of the Focus Gold's flaws are HIGHLY unreasonable to really care about on a modern system, like the 3.3v and 5v rails having fairly bad transient response under load and comparatively low wattage. The modern ATX standard hardly stresses these rails at all beyond SATA and Molex power. Same goes with the fairly weak sauce -12v volt rail. BUT, these flaws matter a lot if you are building a retro game machine for ~Windows 98 through Vista, where the earlier ATX standards put a lot more weight on those rails.

 

IMO, I think D+ needs to be changed to C and C to C+, as there is nothing strictly wrong with these units that you would ever encounter in a modern system. I have always been taught that a D is a failed grade, and the Focus Gold+ certainly does not deserve to fail.

[Mister Woof]

2 minutes ago, SenKa said:

Here is the toms hardware review: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-850-psu,5247-12.html

 

From a brief skim of the jonnyguru review, it seems he tested far more realistic scenarios for a modern system, as compared to the review on tomshardware being more of a torture test. Kind of like using 3DMark to validate a computer's performance over Prime95 and Furmark.

 

As I noted, most of the Focus Gold's flaws are HIGHLY unreasonable to really care about on a modern system, like the 3.3v and 5v rails having fairly bad transient response under load and comparatively low wattage. The modern ATX standard hardly stresses these rails at all beyond SATA and Molex power. Same goes with the fairly weak sauce -12v volt rail. BUT, these flaws matter a lot if you are building a retro game machine for ~Windows 98 through Vista, where the earlier ATX standards put a lot more weight on those rails.

 

IMO, I think D+ needs to be changed to C and C to C+, as there is nothing strictly wrong with these units that you would ever encounter in a modern system. I have always been taught that a D is a failed grade, and the Focus Gold+ certainly does not deserve to fail.

I've been running my Focus Plus Gold 850w on a 5ghz 8700k, 1.36v, and a +50% power limit Vega 64.....haven't had a problem yet, going on a few years

[SenKa]

8 minutes ago, Plutosaurus said:

I've been running my Focus Plus Gold 850w on a 5ghz 8700k, 1.36v, and a +50% power limit Vega 64.....haven't had a problem yet, going on a few years

Makes sense, given that those are very new components that really only hit the 12v rail

 

For modern systems the Focus Gold+ is perfectly fine, and really quite good so far as single rail units go.

[Mark Kaine]

16 minutes ago, Spotty said:

 

That's not what efficiency means.

 

You definitely do not want a power supply operating at 50% efficiency. That would mean for every 100W the system uses, 200W would be drawn from the outlet with the remaining 100W wasted as heat energy. 

You want efficiency of a power supply to be as high as possible. High efficiency power supplies are typically around 90% efficient across most of the load range (20-100% load). With a power supply that is 90% efficient for every 100w the system uses you're drawing around 111w from the outlet, with only 11w wasted.

 

Ah, I guess I've mistaken load and efficiency ... 

I meant exactly what you said however! 

 

Basically you want to be in the "green"