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Should i change my hard disk?

Intrs_tanish

I have a gaming pc that i built back in 2013, i have been upgrading it since then, original specs: i5 3330S, gt 710m, 4gb ram, specs now: i7 4700K, 8gb ddr3, gtx 1050ti. When i built it, i put inside a new Seagate Barracuda 7200 rpm 1 tb 2012 edition hard disk, never upgraded it since then, its been around 7 years now, it never game me problems but since around a year or two i am facing issues now, hard disk utilization 100% at startup, while playing games like csgo and witcher, leading to occasional lag spikes, higher boot times, higher loading times for apps like premier pro, and games like minecraft and fortnite and all the problems in the world, that should be related to hard disks (occasional crashes and bsods in about 2 months or so, becoming more frequent over time), I have tried reformatting it completely then defragmenting it, seems to help by some extent but still not much of a permenant solution, also creaky and nasty noises come out of that thing now, have already took a backup, ready for drive failure, what should i do, should i wait for it to completely die and then replace it or replace it now, or is this normal behavior expected from this hard disk? Its pretty old and aging now, i read from the internet that the average life of an hard disk is about 4-5 years and i am well beyond that, also the read write speeds have decreased. And any ideas on which one i should buy this time? P.S This hard disk is used for an average of 4-5 hours a day (sometimes way more).

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@Intrs_tanish

 

First: Download and install CrystalDiskInfo. Run it, and post a screenshot of all your SMART stats for us to review. There, we can determine if there are any signs of hardware failure.

 

Second: To massively improve performance (whether or not the HDD is still good), you'll want to upgrade to an SSD for your boot drive. There are tons of options - I would recommend at least 240GB-256GB - this will allow you to install most or all of your programs directly onto the SSD and still have some free space. If you have a lot of programs (or want to keep some games on there for faster loading, etc), you may want to grab a larger SSD - 512GB or 1TB.

 

In addition to that, you should keep the HDD (if it's still good - if not, buy a replacement) and use it as a secondary data drive to dump documents and files that don't require faster read/write speeds. You can keep any excess games here that you don't want on the SSD.

 

You can use a cloning tool to copy your current HDD over to the SSD to avoid reinstalling Windows - but you'll benefit from a clean install if you don't mind doing the work.

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What does the smart data show? Look at crystal disk info.

 

Id replace it with a ssd, but the slowness and high usage are normal for a ssd  in windows.

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5 minutes ago, dalekphalm said:

@Intrs_tanish

 

First: Download and install CrystalDiskInfo. Run it, and post a screenshot of all your SMART stats for us to review. There, we can determine if there are any signs of hardware failure.

 

Second: To massively improve performance (whether or not the HDD is still good), you'll want to upgrade to an SSD for your boot drive. There are tons of options - I would recommend at least 240GB-256GB - this will allow you to install most or all of your programs directly onto the SSD and still have some free space. If you have a lot of programs (or want to keep some games on there for faster loading, etc), you may want to grab a larger SSD - 512GB or 1TB.

 

In addition to that, you should keep the HDD (if it's still good - if not, buy a replacement) and use it as a secondary data drive to dump documents and files that don't require faster read/write speeds. You can keep any excess games here that you don't want on the SSD.

 

You can use a cloning tool to copy your current HDD over to the SSD to avoid reinstalling Windows - but you'll benefit from a clean install if you don't mind doing the work.

Here:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
CrystalDiskInfo 8.4.0 (C) 2008-2020 hiyohiyo
                                Crystal Dew World: https://crystalmark.info/
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

    OS : Windows 10  [10.0 Build 18363] (x64)
  Date : 2020/01/30 1:25:54

-- Controller Map ----------------------------------------------------------
 + Standard SATA AHCI Controller [ATA]
   - PLDS DVD-RW DS8A9SH
   - ST1000DM003-1CH162
 - Microsoft Storage Spaces Controller [SCSI]

-- Disk List ---------------------------------------------------------------
 (1) ST1000DM003-1CH162 : 1000.2 GB [0/0/0, pd1] - st

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 (1) ST1000DM003-1CH162
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
           Model : ST1000DM003-1CH162
        Firmware : CC56
   Serial Number : S1DAAJWD
       Disk Size : 1000.2 GB (8.4/137.4/1000.2/1000.2)
     Buffer Size : Unknown
     Queue Depth : 32
    # of Sectors : 1953525168
   Rotation Rate : 7200 RPM
       Interface : Serial ATA
   Major Version : ATA8-ACS
   Minor Version : ATA8-ACS version 4
   Transfer Mode : SATA/300 | SATA/600
  Power On Hours : 7914 hours
  Power On Count : 4444 count
     Temperature : 40 C (104 F)
   Health Status : Good
        Features : S.M.A.R.T., 48bit LBA, NCQ
       APM Level : ----
       AAM Level : ----
    Drive Letter : ??

-- S.M.A.R.T. --------------------------------------------------------------
ID Cur Wor Thr RawValues(6) Attribute Name
01 117 _99 __6 0000071D7738 Read Error Rate
03 _97 _97 __0 000000000000 Spin-Up Time
04 _96 _96 _20 000000001169 Start/Stop Count
05 100 100 _10 000000000000 Reallocated Sectors Count
07 _78 _60 _30 000721E39FCE Seek Error Rate
09 _91 _91 __0 000000001EEA Power-On Hours
0A 100 100 _97 000000000000 Spin Retry Count
0C _96 _96 _20 00000000115C Power Cycle Count
B7 _98 _98 __0 000000000002 Vendor Specific
B8 _92 _92 _99 000000000008 End-to-End Error
BB 100 100 __0 000000000000 Reported Uncorrectable Errors
BC 100 _99 __0 00040005000A Command Timeout
BD _97 _97 __0 000000000003 High Fly Writes
BE _60 _42 _45 021928190028 Airflow Temperature
BF 100 100 __0 000000000000 G-Sense Error Rate
C0 100 100 __0 00000000008A Power-off Retract Count
C1 _98 _98 __0 00000000117B Load/Unload Cycle Count
C2 _40 _58 __0 001400000028 Temperature
C5 100 100 __0 000000000000 Current Pending Sector Count
C6 100 100 __0 000000000000 Uncorrectable Sector Count
C7 200 200 __0 00000000002B UltraDMA CRC Error Count
F0 100 253 __0 72F300002034 Head Flying Hours
F1 100 253 __0 000D91F3B766 Total Host Writes
F2 100 253 __0 0014518AB495 Total Host Reads

-- IDENTIFY_DEVICE ---------------------------------------------------------
        0    1    2    3    4    5    6    7    8    9
000: 0C5A 3FFF C837 0010 0000 0000 003F 0000 0000 0000
010: 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 5331 4441 414A 5744
020: 0000 0000 0004 4343 3536 2020 2020 5354 3130 3030
030: 444D 3030 332D 3143 4831 3632 2020 2020 2020 2020
040: 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 8010 4000 2F00
050: 4000 0200 0200 0007 3FFF 0010 003F FC10 00FB 0010
060: FFFF 0FFF 0000 0007 0003 0078 0078 0078 0078 0000
070: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 001F 8D0E 0004 0044 0040
080: 01F0 0029 346B 7D01 6163 3469 BC01 6163 203F 0035
090: 0035 0000 FFFE 0000 D000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
100: 6DB0 7470 0000 0000 0000 0000 6003 0000 5000 C500
110: 6129 D479 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 401E
120: 401C 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0029 6DB0
130: 7470 6DB0 7470 2020 0002 0140 0108 5000 3C06 3C0A
140: 0000 003C 0000 0008 0000 0000 05FF 0280 0000 0000
150: 0008 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 5800 8800
160: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0002 0000
170: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
180: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
190: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
200: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 3085 0000 0000 4000
210: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 1C20 0000 0000
220: 0000 0000 1020 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
230: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
240: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
250: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 F4A5

-- SMART_READ_DATA ---------------------------------------------------------
     +0 +1 +2 +3 +4 +5 +6 +7 +8 +9 +A +B +C +D +E +F
000: 0A 00 01 0F 00 75 63 38 77 1D 07 00 00 00 03 03
010: 00 61 61 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 04 32 00 60 60 69
020: 11 00 00 00 00 00 05 33 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00
030: 00 00 07 0F 00 4E 3C CE 9F E3 21 07 00 00 09 32
040: 00 5B 5B EA 1E 00 00 00 00 00 0A 13 00 64 64 00
050: 00 00 00 00 00 00 0C 32 00 60 60 5C 11 00 00 00
060: 00 00 B7 32 00 62 62 02 00 00 00 00 00 00 B8 32
070: 00 5C 5C 08 00 00 00 00 00 00 BB 32 00 64 64 00
080: 00 00 00 00 00 00 BC 32 00 64 63 0A 00 05 00 04
090: 00 00 BD 3A 00 61 61 03 00 00 00 00 00 00 BE 22
0A0: 00 3C 2A 28 00 19 28 19 02 00 BF 32 00 64 64 00
0B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 C0 32 00 64 64 8A 00 00 00 00
0C0: 00 00 C1 32 00 62 62 7B 11 00 00 00 00 00 C2 22
0D0: 00 28 3A 28 00 00 00 14 00 00 C5 12 00 64 64 00
0E0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 C6 10 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00
0F0: 00 00 C7 3E 00 C8 C8 2B 00 00 00 00 00 00 F0 00
100: 00 64 FD 34 20 00 00 F3 72 11 F1 00 00 64 FD 66
110: B7 F3 91 0D 00 00 F2 00 00 64 FD 95 B4 8A 51 14
120: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
130: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
140: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
150: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
160: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 82 00 48 02 00 7B
170: 03 00 01 00 01 6E 02 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
180: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 03 03 03 03 03 03 03 03
190: 03 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00 00 00 00
1A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F1 78 BE B8 E9 19 00 00
1B0: 00 00 00 00 01 00 EC 72 66 B7 F3 91 0D 00 00 00
1C0: 95 B4 8A 51 14 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1D0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 89 01 00 00 01 00 00 00
1E0: 00 00 00 00 78 FB 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1F0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 E5

-- SMART_READ_THRESHOLD ----------------------------------------------------
     +0 +1 +2 +3 +4 +5 +6 +7 +8 +9 +A +B +C +D +E +F
000: 01 00 01 06 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 03 00
010: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 04 14 00 00 00 00
020: 00 00 00 00 00 00 05 0A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
030: 00 00 07 1E 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 09 00
040: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A 61 00 00 00 00
050: 00 00 00 00 00 00 0C 14 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
060: 00 00 B7 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 B8 63
070: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 BB 00 00 00 00 00
080: 00 00 00 00 00 00 BC 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
090: 00 00 BD 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 BE 2D
0A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 BF 00 00 00 00 00
0B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 C0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0C0: 00 00 C1 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 C2 00
0D0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 C5 00 00 00 00 00
0E0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 C6 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0F0: 00 00 C7 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F0 00
100: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F1 00 00 00 00 00
110: 00 00 00 00 00 00 F2 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
120: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
130: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
140: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
150: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
160: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
170: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
180: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
190: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1C0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1D0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1E0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1F0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FD

image.thumb.png.820d4cf546687d06ee9120f50da86462.png

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4 minutes ago, Intrs_tanish said:

-snip-

All of that looks good to me. No reallocated sectors, everything looks fairly healthy.

 

Next: I would download and install Seagate SeaTools diagnostics software:

https://www.seagate.com/ca/en/support/downloads/seatools/seatools-win-master/

 

Run the short and long diagnostics - if it produces any errors, replace the drive ASAP. If both come back passed, then I would still follow our advice, get an SSD, and use this HDD as a secondary drive.

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2 minutes ago, dalekphalm said:

All of that looks good to me. No reallocated sectors, everything looks fairly healthy.

 

Next: I would download and install Seagate SeaTools diagnostics software:

https://www.seagate.com/ca/en/support/downloads/seatools/seatools-win-master/

 

Run the short and long diagnostics - if it produces any errors, replace the drive ASAP. If both come back passed, then I would still follow our advice, get an SSD, and use this HDD as a secondary drive.

Can this be the problem of something else also? like dust inside the hard disk, i can probably take some canned air and dust it off

 

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Just now, Intrs_tanish said:

Can this be the problem of something else also? like dust inside the hard disk, i can probably take some canned air and dust it off

 

If there is dust inside your HDD, it's fuuuuucked. HDD's are sealed, and manufactured inside clean rooms. Dusting off the outside shell won't do anything.

 

Sure it could be caused by all kinds of things - but you'd still benefit from an SSD upgrade massively. Frankly just reinstalling Windows fresh would do wonders. I'd suggest getting an SSD, installing a fresh copy of Windows onto it, and wiping the HDD and use it as a second drive.

For Sale: Meraki Bundle

 

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If you don't have windows on an SSD you are long overdue....

 

There is a reason I think an SSD for OS should be the first thing you do if you don't already have one. OS on SSD Vs HDD is so massive difference.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Try to make sense of what you see and wonder about what makes the universe exist. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. 
It matters that you don't just give up.”

-Stephen Hawking

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On 1/29/2020 at 3:08 PM, dalekphalm said:

If there is dust inside your HDD, it's fuuuuucked. HDD's are sealed, and manufactured inside clean rooms. Dusting off the outside shell won't do anything.

 

Sure it could be caused by all kinds of things - but you'd still benefit from an SSD upgrade massively. Frankly just reinstalling Windows fresh would do wonders. I'd suggest getting an SSD, installing a fresh copy of Windows onto it, and wiping the HDD and use it as a second drive.

Side tracking on the subjected of a drive being fucked from dust. Well, in this case, dust was from the platter being scrapped apart by a bad head. Dust = Bad for hard drives IF they are opened. Well, opened without a cleanroom environment. Drives have multiple filters to prevent dust ingress anyways, so you don't need to worry. 

Favorite example from my old job:
IMG_2154.thumb.JPG.6de25cfc407329ca28a978524a46ce69.JPG
 

 

Anyways, as dale was saying, if your system is running the way it is, just doing a clean install can make a big difference. But moving to an SSD will be night and day difference. 

Be sure to @Pickles von Brine if you want me to see your reply!

Stopping by to praise the all mighty jar Lord pickles... * drinks from a chalice of holy pickle juice and tossed dill over shoulder* ~ @WarDance
3600x | NH-D15 Chromax Black | 32GB 3200MHz | ASUS KO RTX 3070 UnderVolted and UnderClocked | Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX X570S | Seasonic X760w | Phanteks Evolv X | 500GB WD_Black SN750 x2 | Sandisk Skyhawk 3.84TB SSD 

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I wanna ask though what the fuck is this, the image?, done in hd tune, as dalekhpalm told, i wiped off windows, formatted my drive, but nothing seems to change

06-February-2020_21-04.png

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What program is that?

 

It looks like a sector map, and the red are supposedly damaged sectors, if I'm reading it properly.

 

If:

1. I'm interpreting the software correctly, and

2. That's accurate

 

It means your HDD is super fucked.

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7 minutes ago, dalekphalm said:

What program is that?

HD Tune.

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On 1/29/2020 at 2:28 PM, Intrs_tanish said:

I have a gaming pc that i built back in 2013, i have been upgrading it since then, original specs: i5 3330S, gt 710m, 4gb ram, specs now: i7 4700K, 8gb ddr3, gtx 1050ti. When i built it, i put inside a new Seagate Barracuda 7200 rpm 1 tb 2012 edition hard disk, never upgraded it since then, its been around 7 years now, it never game me problems but since around a year or two i am facing issues now, hard disk utilization 100% at startup, while playing games like csgo and witcher, leading to occasional lag spikes, higher boot times, higher loading times for apps like premier pro, and games like minecraft and fortnite and all the problems in the world, that should be related to hard disks (occasional crashes and bsods in about 2 months or so, becoming more frequent over time), I have tried reformatting it completely then defragmenting it, seems to help by some extent but still not much of a permenant solution, also creaky and nasty noises come out of that thing now, have already took a backup, ready for drive failure, what should i do, should i wait for it to completely die and then replace it or replace it now, or is this normal behavior expected from this hard disk? Its pretty old and aging now, i read from the internet that the average life of an hard disk is about 4-5 years and i am well beyond that, also the read write speeds have decreased. And any ideas on which one i should buy this time? P.S This hard disk is used for an average of 4-5 hours a day (sometimes way more).

loj.PNG

HDD's (and lower capacity SSD's) are dirt cheap now, so I wouldn't think twice about just buying a new drive. I purchased the same HDD (500 GB version) you're using a week ago for around $17. I would highly recommend a SSD though if you can afford one, they are just so much faster.

 

You may be able to copy over important data but I wouldn't try to clone the drive.

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Something seems

4 hours ago, Intrs_tanish said:

I wanna ask though what the fuck is this, the image?, done in hd tune, as dalekhpalm told, i wiped off windows, formatted my drive, but nothing seems to change

06-February-2020_21-04.png

Something is off with that... If you do a full scan (it will take about 3 hours giver or take) and you do a speed map, what does it say? I would say at least let it run for 20 minutes. It should gradually change color from green to more yellow. This is because the outer part of the drive is faster than the inner part.


Just keep in mind, if you do this while the computer is running, it will throw off the tests by a good amount. So, unless you test the drive from another OS install, it will not be accurate. 

If the computer still runs like ass even on a clean install, then your best bet is going to be to:
A) Replace the drive
B) Go to SSD

But before you do that, are you running an intel system? Have you installed the intel rapid storage technology drivers? Some systems run like poop till that driver is installed. 

 

Be sure to @Pickles von Brine if you want me to see your reply!

Stopping by to praise the all mighty jar Lord pickles... * drinks from a chalice of holy pickle juice and tossed dill over shoulder* ~ @WarDance
3600x | NH-D15 Chromax Black | 32GB 3200MHz | ASUS KO RTX 3070 UnderVolted and UnderClocked | Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX X570S | Seasonic X760w | Phanteks Evolv X | 500GB WD_Black SN750 x2 | Sandisk Skyhawk 3.84TB SSD 

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On 2/7/2020 at 1:44 AM, Lord Xeb said:

Something seems

Something is off with that... If you do a full scan (it will take about 3 hours giver or take) and you do a speed map, what does it say? I would say at least let it run for 20 minutes. It should gradually change color from green to more yellow. This is because the outer part of the drive is faster than the inner part.


Just keep in mind, if you do this while the computer is running, it will throw off the tests by a good amount. So, unless you test the drive from another OS install, it will not be accurate. 

If the computer still runs like ass even on a clean install, then your best bet is going to be to:
A) Replace the drive
B) Go to SSD

But before you do that, are you running an intel system? Have you installed the intel rapid storage technology drivers? Some systems run like poop till that driver is installed. 

 

Ok i was doing a full scan, but it crashed with error bsod code 0x00000053, idk what that is, but i am now running the full test again will update after its done, yes i have it installed by the way (for gaming)

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On 2/7/2020 at 1:44 AM, Lord Xeb said:

Something seems

Something is off with that... If you do a full scan (it will take about 3 hours giver or take) and you do a speed map, what does it say? I would say at least let it run for 20 minutes. It should gradually change color from green to more yellow. This is because the outer part of the drive is faster than the inner part.


Just keep in mind, if you do this while the computer is running, it will throw off the tests by a good amount. So, unless you test the drive from another OS install, it will not be accurate. 

If the computer still runs like ass even on a clean install, then your best bet is going to be to:
A) Replace the drive
B) Go to SSD

But before you do that, are you running an intel system? Have you installed the intel rapid storage technology drivers? Some systems run like poop till that driver is installed. 

 

I think you were correct, i did it again, no bsod this time, it shows this, woof now this makes sense!:

Also am running an intel system, built in 2013, i7 4770k and 8 gigs of ram as mentioned above, also the inter rapid storage tech drivers are installed, is in HHD tune pro by the way(for dalekphalm)

LTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT.png

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On 2/7/2020 at 1:37 AM, steelo said:

HDD's (and lower capacity SSD's) are dirt cheap now, so I wouldn't think twice about just buying a new drive. I purchased the same HDD (500 GB version) you're using a week ago for around $17. I would highly recommend a SSD though if you can afford one, they are just so much faster.

 

You may be able to copy over important data but I wouldn't try to clone the drive.

steelo, i am going to buy a ssd for sure, i have seen them on amazon, i might want to use this as my secondary drive, for storing shit if it dosent crash completely, 512 should be fine? all my games sum upto 236 gigs (including shadow of the tomb raider, witcher 3 and a few others), any model particular suggestion

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On 2/7/2020 at 1:44 AM, Lord Xeb said:

Something seems

Something is off with that... If you do a full scan (it will take about 3 hours giver or take) and you do a speed map, what does it say? I would say at least let it run for 20 minutes. It should gradually change color from green to more yellow. This is because the outer part of the drive is faster than the inner part.


Just keep in mind, if you do this while the computer is running, it will throw off the tests by a good amount. So, unless you test the drive from another OS install, it will not be accurate. 

If the computer still runs like ass even on a clean install, then your best bet is going to be to:
A) Replace the drive
B) Go to SSD

But before you do that, are you running an intel system? Have you installed the intel rapid storage technology drivers? Some systems run like poop till that driver is installed. 

 

i did a quick scan by the way, this time i did a full

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14 hours ago, Intrs_tanish said:

i did a quick scan by the way, this time i did a full

I'd recommend at least a 512 gb ssd if its in your budget. You could also buy something like a 128gb ssd to use solely as a boot drive, then a 1 gb hdd for storing games...thats what I did for a recent budget build and I think total for a 128gb ssd plus a 1 gb 7200rpm hdd was under $50.

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On 2/10/2020 at 9:15 AM, steelo said:

I'd recommend at least a 512 gb ssd if its in your budget. You could also buy something like a 128gb ssd to use solely as a boot drive, then a 1 gb hdd for storing games...thats what I did for a recent budget build and I think total for a 128gb ssd plus a 1 gb 7200rpm hdd was under $50.

I am going to take a 256 gb ssd, along with a 1 TB hard disk (its 1tb and not 1 gb, lmao), am also looking forward to upgrade my psu, current is a 350 watt, and is will probably not be able to take an additional load of an ssd (rn, my processor is overclocked, TDP up is 124 watt, stable + gpu memory overclock by 220 MHz, core by 135 Mhz, wanted maximum stability, at 105 watts), what about at 500 watt psu, would that be nice or more will be better, by the way, my chipset is a Intel Z97, its pretty old now

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1 hour ago, Intrs_tanish said:

I am going to take a 256 gb ssd, along with a 1 TB hard disk (its 1tb and not 1 gb, lmao), am also looking forward to upgrade my psu, current is a 350 watt, and is will probably not be able to take an additional load of an ssd (rn, my processor is overclocked, TDP up is 124 watt, stable + gpu memory overclock by 220 MHz, core by 135 Mhz, wanted maximum stability, at 105 watts), what about at 500 watt psu, would that be nice or more will be better, by the way, my chipset is a Intel Z97, its pretty old now

Sounds good, man. A 500w quality psu should be more than enough.

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On 2/15/2020 at 11:16 PM, steelo said:

Sounds good, man. A 500w quality psu should be more than enough.

:D, thx

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For me, just ONE reallocated or even pending sector (or other error or issue) is enough to retire a hard drive from daily mainstream use.

 

Screenshot_2018-04-12_00-29-09.thumb.png.c0fe99f0cc7e1009b9cc62562b873e77.png

 

That drive had been doing this for a while.

Spoiler

 

 

It currently works seemingly fine now, but I wouldn't trust it for anything critical.

 

Also for some reason CrystalDiskInfo in Windows doesn't see SMART info, so I had to use Linux.

 

Spoiler

 

878702634_Screenshot(166)-WD2500JB7200rpm80GBPATA.thumb.png.5af6d9b9dc2e417d60d75855556dba28.png

 

 

 

 

From what I understand, reallocated sectors on SSDs are fine, its part of their normal operation over time. (Someone want to write a song about SSD and HDD reliability? ?)  However, i would be ????? if it ramped up quickly.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/23/2020 at 10:43 PM, PianoPlayer88Key said:

For me, just ONE reallocated or even pending sector (or other error or issue) is enough to retire a hard drive from daily mainstream use.

 

Screenshot_2018-04-12_00-29-09.thumb.png.c0fe99f0cc7e1009b9cc62562b873e77.png

 

That drive had been doing this for a while.

  Reveal hidden contents

 

 

It currently works seemingly fine now, but I wouldn't trust it for anything critical.

 

Also for some reason CrystalDiskInfo in Windows doesn't see SMART info, so I had to use Linux.

 

  Reveal hidden contents

 

878702634_Screenshot(166)-WD2500JB7200rpm80GBPATA.thumb.png.5af6d9b9dc2e417d60d75855556dba28.png

 

 

 

 

From what I understand, reallocated sectors on SSDs are fine, its part of their normal operation over time. (Someone want to write a song about SSD and HDD reliability? ?)  However, i would be ????? if it ramped up quickly.

My exams got over, i turned on my pc today, it took legit 10 mins just to get to the desktop, 3 errors popped up on HD tune today as here (i cant upload the image bucuz the server is not letting me😞) - End to end Error detection - Failure, Airflow Temperature - Failure and Interface CRC Error count - attention, this has gone way over now, i dont even know if this will boot up the next time i boot it lol, i ordered the HDD and the SSD from amazon, the best ones, 256 samsung evo 960, and WD green 1 TB, it wil come by april second week, Amazon psotponed my order due to the Corona Virus thing :C, Also my power on hours is now 8258 hours, thats a record for me lol, from 7914 in my last reply

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