MD Utsho

if it's a black screen with the fans being loud and fast then it could be that the gpu crashed. maybe it's not getting enough power somehow, like a loose connector,  or the psu may faulty

It would help, but still need a better display. 120Hz+ is standard and uotra cheap, same for 1000Hz mouse.

The majority of TVs are perfectly fine with 60Hz, there are no issues and it looks very smooth to watch media on, the difference being, even with an increase in Hz, youre quite literally FEELING the movement when gaming, you can feel the difference (excuse the pun) much easier, that being said, it is a somewhat minor thing to be concerned about, if youre buying a monitor in the future id recommend trying to get a 120Hz minimum, it is a noticeable increase, any higher and it will only get smoother. But its entirely usable, even on lesser

Polling rate is how many times the PC will ask the mouse if the mouse moved and how much, or mouse sending signal to PC or both - per second

Smoothness of a moving image will also include factors like FPS, monitor refresh rate, monitor response time etc

Yes, even on slower displays a faster polling rate means there is less input lag from your mouse to the PC and the movements will be smoother. But after 1000 Hz there are heavy diminishing returns, making anything higher basically only worth it for hardcore competitive gamers.
 
Better mice also come with other advantages than higher polling rates, like better accuracity, consistency, weight, better liftoff-behavior, etc.

Hah, Found the solution already, It was happening because of "MSI Center APP" 
It was set to Silent mode, Didn't notice when that happened.
But it's all good now

when I had my PNY card's fan die they told me to send it in and maybe in 16 weeks I could get a replacement or mine repaired.  I told the representative that I needed it faster, can they just send me a little fan? Nope, can't do that.  I said I can give you the serial number of my card so you can void out the warranty if I replace it myself.  Nope.  I said that you void the warranty and just tell me a part number for the fan.  Nope.   F@#$K PNY, I never bought another thing from them and I won't in the future.  utter crap.  I would give Zotac or Gigabyte a shot before them.

As with all GPUs, you really need to compare the individual cards rather than the brand. Each brand has missteps and some really good performers. There's basically none with an entirely consistent track record.
 
That being said, PNY is generally reputable, though not really a common name you see around in Western markets, at least not for GPUs. In regards to the comment above about having one PNY card and the fan dying, it really doesn't mean anything and is a silly reason to avoid a company. You may as well not buy anything from any tech company as all of them have outliers that fail prematurely (or just within the expected lifespan).

I missed that part, my bad. I'd get the 12700 with b660

As long as you give the 12700 enough cooling and power it's going to be faster than the 12600K in most tasks. Here's a review showing the 12700 at stock and no power limit: https://www.techspot.com/review/2391-intel-core-i7-12700/
But it might be worth waiting for the 13600K to see if it's a good option.

Yes. MSI PRO A boards are good enough for the i7.

yikes!
 
Still a great card! I have one in my Hackintosh

“YOU WILL NEVER DEFEAT MY 800Mhz DDR2 on my core 2 board!!!  MUHAHAHAhahahah!”

[main spot circles stage left.  Pull frame on Spotty grinding out a cigarette on the pavement.  Spotty is standing in front of the back of a van with its doors open containing a PDP1170 with a punch card reader]
[pull focus flash zoom on spotty’s face]
 
[@Spotty] “I beg to differ…”
 
#Theme plays#
[kill spotlight]
[ end scene]
 
 There’s actually some pretty decent ddr3 out there.  Really Good ddr3 is better than bad early ddr4, if only just barely.  Just like there’s really good ddr2 that’s better than bad early ddr3.  It’s a major reason so many people think ddr5 will suck a lot less in a year or two.

Heh.  Depends if you have any use for ecores or not. For gamers not only not but probably never will.  Apparently there is a lag issue. 
 
That makes the 12600k effectively a 12400(k) now the 12400f does compete favorably against the 5600x.  I did something almost exactly the same as you only a little while ago and was talked into the 5700x.  Though the jury is still out.  A 12700f is an option.

If you can wait, wait. It's known that 13th Gen will be terrific for multitasking, and you should go DDR5. Otherwise you'll have to buy twice to upgrade your CPU. 

Otherwise today, no matter what, you'll be buying into a dead end if you go DDR4.
 
If you're OK with buying twice, just go 5900X, a decent B550 board like an MSI Tomahawk or Gaming Plus, CL16 3600 RAM, call it a day. 

amd is kinda knocking multitasking out of the park right now so if your loads are heavy on multithreading then amd.

oh lol this is getting asked alot high capacity ddr5 should be cheaper, no idea if this is actually the case, but the motherboards alone ruin the cost
if your sure things with actually use the e cores jsut buy 12th gen when its being sold off, if not, 5900xs are always going on the cheap, but things might get cut prices unevenly, havent kept up.
 
Also randomly if youre in winnipeg mb, I have a good b450 board and dual rank 2x16 GB ddr4 at 3600 cl14, on a good memory controller it should be able to sacle upo to higher lcocks with more voltage since its micron rev e, but only tested on systems with a 1600x (limited to 3533) and 8700k (garbonzo imc was unstable at 3800 mhz)
 
edit: nvm lol, one day ill find someone who wants my ram...

If you can wait a bit I'd say get a 13600K : 6 Pcores + 8 Ecores will make it way better than a 5800X or 12600K
And it's still LGA1700, and DDR4 compatible if needed, not like new Ryzens which'll need new expensive AM5 boards and DDR5

Yeah, it's fine. Without touching voltage, there isn't a way to harm the GPU, only make it unstable and have the occasional crash if you push it too far (which given you ran RDR2 for hours, you haven't pushed it too far). Even if you did want to touch the voltage, Wattman locks the voltage down enough by default that raising it to the point where you'll have issues in the future is basically impossible without going out of your way to do so. 
 
Until you get into the realm of soft powerplay tables, BIOS modding, etc., overclocking the card isn't harmful no matter what you do in Wattman. 

this isnt true.
Often overclocking can be done while lowering voltage, and you can keepl votage the same d get a bit too. 
It varies a lot, but my 1070ti got like +125core/+250 mem without any voltatge change at all

I even know on which site you found this solution! ) Glad I helped you! ) here

Hi, if someone still have same problem,
found one solution which helped me with "Cyan color is stuck in breathing mode" issue, keyboard Bloody B328.
Found a solution on one site: 1) Download latest version of Keydominator
2) Restart your PC 3) Unplug the keyboard.from PC and wait 5 seconds 4) Press and hold "Fn"+"Ins"(Insert) buttons 5) Connect keyboard to PC and wait 20 seconds (still hold "Fn"+"Ins") 6) Release the buttons

P.s. If after these steps your keyboard not working at all - you forgot to download Keydominator. Download it and try again.
P.s.s. On some keyboards it can be "Fn" + "ESC" except "Fn"+"Ins"

Hope this will help someone.

Had the same issue with that Archiver.exe for a week now after installing a Forza Horizon 5 repack I presume. Thanks for posting this, finally I can sleep with my fans not drilling a hole in my head if I have to leave the pc running. The weird thing was that The pirate bay proxy site was hacked that day and redirected me to fake TBP proxies with fake torrent files too, only realised when opened the first archive I downloaded, so I'm not entirely sure which repack exactly it was, but I had multiple versions of EMPRESS and CODEX repacks, although CODEX always worked great for me in the past. My guess is either those fake torrents or one of these repacks had something to do with it (tho I will personally blame this new "empress" cus codex saved my tiny childhood wallet one too many times, but the torrent files could've easily been replaced, so idk anymore).
This is what I get for pirating a single game after 10 years of buying them -_- 
Check your torrents kids :)

Thank you so much for all the info! I have been going insane over this issue for a week seeing idle CPU temperatures hover between 70-80°C then jumping back to its normal 35-40°C range as soon as I open Task Manager or Resource Monitor. Absolutely nothing showing up on malware scans. But sure enough I found Archiver.exe sitting exactly where you said it would be, as well as the ContentManagement file in C:/Windows/System32/Tasks. Files were created the same day I first opened up a recently released cracked game, despite scanning it beforehand. Deleting seems to have fixed the problem. Stay safe out there gamers.