Paddo

Heroes of Might and Magic 3, Gothic 1 and 2, World of Warcraft Legion, Vampire Survivors and Dishonored.

Heroes of Might and Magic 3, Gothic 1 and 2, World of Warcraft Legion, Vampire Survivors and Dishonored.

3.5" Drives need an additional 12V power source to work because USB alone isn't enough. Could be an issue when you are traveling and don't have a power outlet nearby. The hard drive wouldn't fully utilize the 10Gbit connection either. I think it would be best to go for pure NVMe storage. They are lighter, not as easily damaged by drops and faster than HDDs. The only thing that makes HDDs better is price per GB. If you NEED 20TB of storage go for the HDD, if 4-8TB are enough go nvme or at least 2.5" SSD.
 
Also yes, it should be plug 'n play and show up as removable storage not matter the drive you put in there.

3.5" Drives need an additional 12V power source to work because USB alone isn't enough. Could be an issue when you are traveling and don't have a power outlet nearby. The hard drive wouldn't fully utilize the 10Gbit connection either. I think it would be best to go for pure NVMe storage. They are lighter, not as easily damaged by drops and faster than HDDs. The only thing that makes HDDs better is price per GB. If you NEED 20TB of storage go for the HDD, if 4-8TB are enough go nvme or at least 2.5" SSD.
 
Also yes, it should be plug 'n play and show up as removable storage not matter the drive you put in there.

I'd go for the M27Q. You could also take a look at the Dell G2724D or the LG 27GR83Q-B.
I think both are better than the M27Q if they are in your price range.

The first things I'd do are:
Update all drivers and software including your BIOS Check temps with HWMonitor Check your RAM with Memtest86+ Do a fresh install of your GPU driver. Use DDU for a clean uninstall. Disable XMP/DOCP in your BIOS Swap your PSU with a known good one. 500W should be enough for your system.  

That's how I understand it but it has been a while since I tinkered with cameras. To be extra safe you could always meassure the voltage between center pin and ground (should be the metal rails) while idle and when pressing the shutter button.

Should be fine. The small pins are for communication and the larger pin is only active when the shutter button gets pressed all the way down. To Quote from a different forum "One major use is the large center pin. The camera shutter shorts that pin to ground to trigger the flash in sync with shutter. This shorts the flash sync voltage from the flash, signaling to the flash to trigger then."

To add to the whole Asus discussion:
I've had my fair share of problems with Asus support. Repairs that took months, having to send the same unit in multiple times because they didn't fix the problem, but the worst was when I sent in a TUF notebook for repair because the display cable was broken. After 3 weeks they sent back an empty box. The box was still sealed so I doubt anyone took the unit out of the box. There wasn't even any paperwork in the box, nothing.
It took forever to resolve the issue because I didn't record myself opening the box so I had no proof that they sent back a whole bunch of nothing.
Mistakes can and will happen, that's not the problem, the problem is that Asus seems particularly bad at fixing them.

To add to the whole Asus discussion:
I've had my fair share of problems with Asus support. Repairs that took months, having to send the same unit in multiple times because they didn't fix the problem, but the worst was when I sent in a TUF notebook for repair because the display cable was broken. After 3 weeks they sent back an empty box. The box was still sealed so I doubt anyone took the unit out of the box. There wasn't even any paperwork in the box, nothing.
It took forever to resolve the issue because I didn't record myself opening the box so I had no proof that they sent back a whole bunch of nothing.
Mistakes can and will happen, that's not the problem, the problem is that Asus seems particularly bad at fixing them.

To add to the whole Asus discussion:
I've had my fair share of problems with Asus support. Repairs that took months, having to send the same unit in multiple times because they didn't fix the problem, but the worst was when I sent in a TUF notebook for repair because the display cable was broken. After 3 weeks they sent back an empty box. The box was still sealed so I doubt anyone took the unit out of the box. There wasn't even any paperwork in the box, nothing.
It took forever to resolve the issue because I didn't record myself opening the box so I had no proof that they sent back a whole bunch of nothing.
Mistakes can and will happen, that's not the problem, the problem is that Asus seems particularly bad at fixing them.

I would go for the NZXT H7 Flow for better air flow. I've never heard of "Inland" SSDs but I'm not from the USA so I'd go for Samsung. Other than that it looks OK.

If you want to stay in the apple eco system I'd suggest the M1 Pro because of the better screen, connectivity and power. It will last you much longer and if you ever want to play games on it in the future you will be able to. But only if you can justify spending 2k€ on a laptop.

If you don't mind switching to Windows/Linux take a look at rtings.com it's the best site I've found so far for reviews. They test Laptops in many different categories so you can decide what's most important to you and choose the right system.
There are many much cheaper laptops that would fulfill your needs but there is nothing wrong in treating yourself to something a bit more overkill if it makes you more comfortable and happy with your decision.

Installing drivers via device manager isn't very reliable. Since it's an Intel board you could try using Intels Driver & Support Assistant to update your drivers. Also update your BIOS if you didn't already.

If those things don't work try and boot in to a Live Linux system. Just download a Linux distro with GUI(like ubuntu), make a bootable USB flash drive with the program Rufus and boot from the flash drive. If your Mouse/Keyboard work then the problem stems from Windows. If it still does not work something on your Mainboard or BIOS is at fault.

Also just to clarify: The USB Sticks you used are they all USB 3.0? If so you could try with a USB 2.0 drive and see if you run into the same problem.

I still use memtest a bunch at work. I just boot it up before I go home and let it run over night so I don't care that much for longer wait times. Glad to see that it's still being updated.

If you have more than one monitor try running HW Monitor while you play to see if your clock speeds drop or if you are running in to limits.

What about the height of AP1, or changing its position?  Can it be moved closer to AP2 at all?
 
I wonder if mixing two different chipsets (even though they're the same vendor) might be at issue here?  Maybe things have moved on, but when I was using OpenWRT (or maybe I was on DD-WRT too back then, can't remember) in WDS mode the documentation said to only use it with identical hardware at both ends, as the implementation is not always standards compliant between different WiFi chipsets.  I assume you're not using 802.11s as that is a completely different kind of mesh that is meant for making huge WiFi networks with resiliency rather than speed.  
 
That said, have you tested AP1 and AP2 in the same room to see how fast they can achieve in ideal circumstances?
 
I wonder if upgrading to WiFi 6 might help?   I had awful performance on 2.4Ghz for years, since it became so crowded (over really short range too) but it improved dramatically when I moved to WiFi 6.  Its why it frustrates me to see so many vendors selling APs with WiFi 6 only on 5Ghz, as it makes a much bigger improvement to 2.4Ghz as that never got upgraded when WiFi 5 came out.

Also, don't bother with CAT7 if you do add another hard link, its not an official standard.  CAT5e is enough for Gigabit, CAT6A if you want a little future proofing.

What kind of AP?
 
Ceiling mounted, or just moving it as high up as possible can help the signal avoid as many obstructions.  Also if this is hanging onto a weak 5Ghz signal then moving to 2.4Ghz might actually perform better, perhaps letting you move AP2 closer to the gaming area. 
 
Although if you are planning to game online I don't think this is going to work if its already struggling.

In my own experience, connecting an antenna over a 3m cable helps a lot at 2.4Ghz but when I tried with a 5Ghz signal (and a 5Ghz antenna) it was useless.  Although I have no way to know if the antenna was faulty.

Are you sure that that 3070 is not a fake? you could have been GPU-Swapped. 3070 is UEFI-Boot compatible, where the most common faked GPUs are not UEFI-Boot compliant. Could you post a picture of said GPU?

Just leave it on.
It's a compatibility mode,so if your system doesn't post without it then you may have a component that isn't compatible with UEFI.

Well, I'll take all your concerns about LC Power to my boss, maybe he will switch brands.
All I can say is that this is the first time something like this happend to me with those PSUs, I've never had one blow up or fry another component. But that shouldn't be the point of the thread.
 
The PSU has been switched, the PC runs fine and I'll keep the "LC Power is garbage" in mind if something similar should happen again.

No, fuck this cancerous "cancel culture" you are trying to push.
One employee saying something on his personal Twitter account should not be a reason to boycott a company. All that will lead to is that employees are no longer allowed to have personal social media accounts. It won't actually change how anyone thinks.

I think some modern DJI drones have follow features, but I believe they are designed to follow people or cars, stuff like that. It may have trouble automatically locking on and following another drone. I think you'll need to do it manually, so I recommend practicing your piloting skills or finding an aerial videographer.

Yes there are lots of option for ur guy, but question is on how much mula he will to cough out. Time of flight, conditions, output of signals, licence, and most importantly why he need is (unless it’s a trade secret  ). Most basic option is parrot ar 1 and coloured strip on a mother drone.

Not every component in your PC needs RGB. It is distracting, doesn't improve performance, you don't even see it whilst gaming. Also many brands use propriatary connectors. You have a ASUS mainboard but corsair fans and a gigabyte graphicscard? Use 3 different programs that are not campatible with eachother.