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PC draws too much power and shuts off when I put in a CD

Go to solution Solved by Fasauceome,

There's no way the PC itself is drawing 420 watts, even over 150 watts is a stretch.

 

I would wager the actual problem is the quality of the power supply. 420 watts is not a common amount, if this is some bargain bin oldie that can't handle modern components, doesn't matter how many watts it can push.

I was building an office PC, nothing fancy (Gigabyte H510 S2H V2, i3 10100, 4GB 2400MHz RAM, 420W PSU, 250GB SATA SSD, CD/DVD Drive).
Everytime I put in a CD the PC shuts off without any BSOD. If a CD is in the drive while booting it also shuts down.
I've tried a different 420W PSU, same thing. Different drive too.
Only when I install a 550W PSU the PC stays on.

I've built PCs with better CPUs and used the same 420W PSU without any problems.
What could cause this? The PC itself shouldn't draw more than ~200W under load so 420W should be fine, or not?

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There's no way the PC itself is drawing 420 watts, even over 150 watts is a stretch.

 

I would wager the actual problem is the quality of the power supply. 420 watts is not a common amount, if this is some bargain bin oldie that can't handle modern components, doesn't matter how many watts it can push.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - dark mode Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

How many watts do I need? Seasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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4 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

 

I would wager the actual problem is the quality of the power supply. 420 watts is not a common amount, if this is some bargain bin oldie that can't handle modern components, doesn't matter how many watts it can push.

 

2 minutes ago, Benji said:

Well, that's based on the power supply I'd say.

What models are those?

 

It is a fairly cheap PSU. It's from a german company called LC Power. I've been using their power supplies for almost a decade now and never had any problem. Neither with PCs I've build for customers nor with my own PCs. I know they can run a PC with an i5 9xxx and a GTX 1660, even with Molex to PCIe power adapters, under load without any problem. That's why I am so suprised that a CD Drive could bring it to it's knees.

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It could be the CD drive having a fault that creates a power spike when the motor starts or something that is enough to trip the OCP(over current protection) on the 420W, but not the 550W.

Do you have an extra CD drive to test with?

 

If you want me to answer, please use the quote function or tag me. I dont get notified unless you do

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1 minute ago, Tegneren said:

It could be the CD drive having a fault that creates a power spike when the motor starts or something that is enough to trip the OCP(over current protection) on the 420W, but not the 550W.

Do you have an extra CD drive to test with?

 

I did test it with an extra drive, same issue.

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5 minutes ago, Benji said:

LC Power is cheap garbage that is sold under a German company's name, while it is actually a Chinese company that stands behind this. They are not German and really bring down the quality standard for "German". So yeah, they're a company that is registered in Germany but they're actually Chinese and are run by Chinese people. As a matter of fact, their actual webpage is not even hosted in Europe at all, it's hosted in China.


LC Power PSUs are known to be firecrackers, get rid off them immediately if you want to keep your hardware healthy and alive.

You don't know that, it's a lucky shot. And given the fact that these don't even have PCIe connectors should really tell you what crap you've bought.

Like I said, I've been using them for almost a decade now. I've built hundreds of PCs with their power supplies ranging from 300W to 850W although I now use BeQuiet or Corsair for anything over 600W. Also PCIe connectors on a 420W PSU are usually not necessary and the higher spect PSUs do have connectors for PCIe.
But I'll consider switching brands if more problems arise.

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2 minutes ago, Benji said:

I think he has mentioned this already.

 

2 minutes ago, Paddo said:

I did test it with an extra drive, same issue.

My bad. Didn't read properly.

 

7 minutes ago, Benji said:

It was also mentioned that, with a higher-powered PSU (a "550W" unit of which I would also expect to be an LC Power firecracker), it doesn't happen.

Yes, this is why I thought it may be a fault in the CD drive. Any PSU, no matter how shitty should be able to handle a CD drive spinning up.

 

If you want me to answer, please use the quote function or tag me. I dont get notified unless you do

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I mean the people telling you its an awful psu probably have a point... you had no issues with them could be just down to sheer luck...

 

Imo, get a *good* 300w BEQUIET PSU, try it out in *this* pc... if the problem still exists...

 

Its either the motherboard,  some cables, or indeed the drive... or worst case there's a short somewhere. 

 

Basic troubleshooting,  but getting a known to be good PSU is probably the most important step.

 

Also yes, wattage matters,  but I think you're kinda overestimating the importance,  it doesn't matter if high or low power machine, the power supply should always be *high quality* with all necessary protections in an actually working state, not just printed on the box...  in my humble opinion.  Psu is the heart of any system and should not be cheaped out on...

AMD stands for Advanced Micro Machines

-ColdFusion, 2021

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38 minutes ago, Paddo said:

I did test it with an extra drive, same issue.

Psu issue.

 

Lc power is GARBAGE. Like pc killer garbage level psu's. These are pretty common for me to have to replace. They are just rebranded dirtcheap crappy generic chinese psu's which the likes of Logon, Trust,... also use. All of those I also replace on a regular basis with actual good psu's.

 

So don't kill your system dump that literal firehazard and get a good psu.

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26 minutes ago, Tegneren said:

 

Yes, this is why I thought it may be a fault in the CD drive. Any PSU, no matter how shitty should be able to handle a CD drive spinning up.

 

Yeah no. Even the littlest over the limit can push one of those craptastic ones to it's doom.

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I have a Corsair CX450 running a Pentium based PC that drives my television set.  It has a generic DVD/BluRay player (can't remember the brand).  I've not had any issues at all watching DVDs at all.  As others note above, I think it's the PSU that is the problem

Workstation PC Specs: CPU - i7 8700K; MoBo - ASUS TUF Z390; RAM - 32GB Crucial; GPU - Gigabyte RTX 1660 Super; PSU - SeaSonic Focus GX 650; Storage - 500GB Samsung EVO, 3x2TB WD HDD;  Case - Fractal Designs R6; OS - Win10

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33 minutes ago, Paddo said:

Like I said, I've been using them for almost a decade now. I've built hundreds of PCs with their power supplies ranging from 300W to 850W although I now use.

Thank you for the business 😛!

 

Like no joke people like you are what brings in the money for me for fixing mistakes like this.

 

34 minutes ago, Paddo said:

I now use BeQuiet or Corsair for anything over 600W. Also PCIe connectors on a 420W PSU are usually not necessary and the higher spect PSUs do have connectors for PCIe.
But I'll consider switching brands if more problems arise.

 

I'm stopping you right there. A 400-450w psu without a pcie connector is a MAJOR red flag as those psu's can EASILY power a lower end gaming system if they are of good quality. I mean the cx450 (gray label) was a staple for this budget end and powered systems with all manner of nvidia 60's series cards and it's amd counterparts.

 

DO NOT BUY BY BRAND EVER AT ALL. BUY BY THE PRODUCT.

 

Legit almost all brands have garbage and good stuff basically. It's why the psu tier list exist.

 

I always aim for an A or B tier unit anything else I ignore as not worth the money or effort.

 

 

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Alan G said:

I have a Corsair CX450 running a Pentium based PC that drives my television set.  It has a generic DVD/BluRay player (can't remember the brand).  I've not had any issues at all watching DVDs at all.  As others note above, I think it's the PSU that is the problem

And that is because the cx450 (gray labels) are actual good psu's.

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Well, I'll take all your concerns about LC Power to my boss, maybe he will switch brands.
All I can say is that this is the first time something like this happend to me with those PSUs, I've never had one blow up or fry another component. But that shouldn't be the point of the thread.

 

The PSU has been switched, the PC runs fine and I'll keep the "LC Power is garbage" in mind if something similar should happen again.

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Edited

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - dark mode Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

How many watts do I need? Seasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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On 10/26/2021 at 3:56 PM, Benji said:

That's where you're wrong, though. You have very specific complaints that point towards power delivery, namely that a certain part with a rather small power draw draws power but the system shuts off even though the PSU is not even at half the load it can handle according to the label, while an overkill PSU with a higher rating doesn't have that issue. We are just responding to it. I can see how you could dislike that answer, but that doesn't make it wrong. What you do is up to you, but a 550W (I assume that's the PSU you're using now) is by far overkill for an iGPU-driven system with an Intel Core i3-10100. With all the components, the system should be having a hard time even scratching the 150W border, if at all. So that your "420W" LC Power PSU has issues with it while the same PSU with a higher power rating doesn't have these issues should be perfectly indicative, even for you, that there is something off. Call it "mindset", the entire internet is full with PCs blown up or showing other faulty behaviour that got fixed by switching out the LC Power PSU with something of an actual quality.

Maybe you are right. I just didn't want to believe that the PSUs I've been using for years are that bad. Esp. since at least some of them are listed A or C Tier in the PSU Tier List and this was the first time something like this happend. I've tested the "faulty" 420W in a new PC with simmilar specs (i5 instead of i3) and it worked just fine but could've been just down to luck.
Like I said, I talked to my boss about it and it doesn't seem like he is going to switch any time soon since he said that they were the most reliable PSUs he sold at this price point. For higher end PCs we switched already to mainly Corsair or BeQuiet.

The OEMs for most of the lower end PSUs are either Great Wall or Huntkey, their "higher end" are from either Andyson or CWT. I'll have a closer look into these OEMs. The higher end models from the Gold or Platimun series seem to perform better according to the Tier List.

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