boarder2k7

Slight necro here but I did a lot of research into setting up wind vs solar on a property that also has good consistent wind. My conclusion is that wind just isn't worth it on a small scale. When I say small, I was looking at used 10 kW Bergey setups (to avoid the high initial cost), and even those don't have nearly as good payback as you'd hope once you factor in maintenance which is typically why they're being taken down. It's just become less hassle to replace with solar. Your available power increases off a squared function of both wind speed and blade length. Those little "500 Watt" turbines will only make that much in fairly high winds, usually 25 kph+
 
You're much better off from a longevity and power produced standpoint to go solar + batteries if you need constant renewable power based on all the calculations I did. Obviously ymmv based on location, but don't expect good longevity from the China magic 500 W units. We used to burn them out every couple years back at school with the one we had instrumented on one of the buildings as a learning tool.

I've always been confused as to why people talk about automotive coolants as "chemical roulette" when they specifically have anti-corrosion additives in them.
It isn't uncommon for an automotive cooling loop to include aluminum, steel, cast iron, copper, brass, and with soldered radiators also lead, in various mixtures, at temperatures elevated past that of your PC, for years at a time per change. It'll be fine from that perspective, you shouldn't see any corrosion issues.
 
It does have lower thermal mass though, so will change your cooling capacity somewhat. Looking at https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html seems to show that at 40C you'll need 16% extra flow to account for the difference if you want the exact same temperatures.

Though please don't ask us to help you cheat...

Though please don't ask us to help you cheat...

I'm once again confused as to why an automotive antifreeze manufacturer, who has liability moving into the hundreds of thousands of dollars if found to have produced a product that damaged engines when they said it was okay, would suddenly change their formula to something that no longer prevents corrosion? There are standards that all reputable coolants are tested to, specifically ASTM D3306, ASTM D4985, ASTM D3306, ASTM D6210, and ASTM D7583 depending on the coolant. It's true that they don't have to publish exactly what their corrosion inhibitor formula is, but the ASTM standards show that it does work. Five years/150k miles is not an uncommon expected lifespan of coolant in an automotive system, and don't forget that higher temperatures encourage corrosion more than lower ones, so your computer loop operating at 40C will have less potential issues than the car running at 85C will.
 
Also just for curiosity, where on earth is RO water easier to find than distilled? Distilled water is $0.88/gallon at Walmart, I've never seen RO water for sale, and I've certainly never seen DI water regularly available outside a chem lab.

A while back I downloaded the msds sheets for prestone antifreeze and mayhem coolant. Guess what.... Exactly the same ingredients other than coloring additives. It's pretty easy to find. 

Um, so? You're saying that it's pointless to learn anything, unless you can learn everything? That's stupid. Learning something is always better than learning nothing.

The mush at the top is a cooling issue that happens when you print small features all at once. The radiant and conducted heat off the nozzle at one small point is overwhelming your cooling and making kindof mush around.
 
Try setting a minimum layer time with the setting that moves the nozzle away from the print. It'll make the top take a lot longer but will reduce your cooling issue.

Due to the logarithmic nature of sound, it isn't as simple as adding the decibel difference.
2x 30 dB sources will add to 33 dB
2x 33 dB sources will add to 36 dB
You still end up with a 3 dB difference.

batmobile.gpu
Kickass. I want one.

It doesn't make a difference because of the auto scaling.

Celsius works off of water instead of other compounds for 'reasons' (these reasons being old metric standards, not new ones), isn't the preferred unit in science, is less detailed for average people than Fahrenheit, the 'useful' range is effectively arbitrary for normal people (see my post above), but yes, Fahrenheit is the 'nonsense' scale.
I'm happy sticking with my reasonable Fahrenheit instead of converting to a poor-man's Kelvin.

IF we can IGNORE what people are comfortable with at the moment...
Fahrenheit makes more sense because it's 9/5 more accurate without a decimal point, and provides a wider working range of "real world" temperatures.
As for base 10, it doesn't make any more sense than base 12 where you use your thumb to count finger segments. Base 12 is what most of the old world measurements were based on since it gives even division to 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, and 1/6

IF we can IGNORE what people are comfortable with at the moment...
Fahrenheit makes more sense because it's 9/5 more accurate without a decimal point, and provides a wider working range of "real world" temperatures.
As for base 10, it doesn't make any more sense than base 12 where you use your thumb to count finger segments. Base 12 is what most of the old world measurements were based on since it gives even division to 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, and 1/6

IF we can IGNORE what people are comfortable with at the moment...
Fahrenheit makes more sense because it's 9/5 more accurate without a decimal point, and provides a wider working range of "real world" temperatures.
As for base 10, it doesn't make any more sense than base 12 where you use your thumb to count finger segments. Base 12 is what most of the old world measurements were based on since it gives even division to 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, and 1/6

IF we can IGNORE what people are comfortable with at the moment...
Fahrenheit makes more sense because it's 9/5 more accurate without a decimal point, and provides a wider working range of "real world" temperatures.
As for base 10, it doesn't make any more sense than base 12 where you use your thumb to count finger segments. Base 12 is what most of the old world measurements were based on since it gives even division to 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, and 1/6

My weapon of choice is an air compressor and a blow off gun. Just make sure you set the output pressure to something under 50 PSI and wear ear protection as it can be quite loud. 

That is the very limited edition Cyberman case, didn't you know? JK

http://www.cnet.com/news/switching-carriers-you-may-be-able-to-take-your-iphone-5s-with-you/
Yes and no, depends on the carrier and phone. I think the 5s is required because it has 4G.

This guy gets it. "Grounding" is irrelevant, you just need to be at the same potential as your parts. The PSU doesn't have to be plugged into the wall or anything else. Just touch the case/antistatic bag with your component in it first.

This guy gets it. "Grounding" is irrelevant, you just need to be at the same potential as your parts. The PSU doesn't have to be plugged into the wall or anything else. Just touch the case/antistatic bag with your component in it first.

They have to get light to stay full though, and I don't have a place on the outside of my bag to put one that wouldn't get damaged by the bag being moved about.
They are an excellent option overall though since they have the ability to be recharged (albeit slowly) when there isn't power available.
Maybe I should find one with a crank....

The powerbank isn't bad, batteries just discharge with time, its normal.
 
According to Battery University a standard lithium ion cell will lose 5% in the first 24 hours, then 1-2% per month by itself, and protection circuits leak an additional 3% per month. Thats 5% per month and you're only starting at a 95% charge.
 
When I say I use my battery bank infrequently, I mean maybe once every 6 months I need it. That means I'm starting with a bank that is only 65% full [95% - (5% * 6 months)]. This is additionally compounded by temperature, higher temperatures discharge batteries faster. Battery sits in the car while you go into a store? It takes a hit. Summertime and you don't have A/C on in your house? Even 80 F will accelerate that discharge curve. This why this would be good for my usage case.
 
Yes I know I can top the bank up monthly to prevent this, but that's just another thing to remember to do.

I still think this.
How many cords of disks can you split in an hour?