CC268

An NH-D15 is probably the best air cooler you can get right now, but it's completely overkill for that CPU. I'd step down to something like a NH-U12S or NH-U9S and save some cash personally.


Going back to the stock MSI cooler on your GPU should be fine, you can get aftermarket air coolers for some GPUs but I don't really see the point, especially if you aren't gaming anymore.


For fans, if you have 140mm slots, I'd use 140mm fans there, and 2 in the front and 1 in the rear should be plenty given your setup. NF-A14s and NF-A12s are great if you want silence and don't mind the looks and the price, and I've heard many great things about the Arctic P12 and P14 fans if you are on more of a budget and don't mind a bit of extra noise.

Have you tried a re-TIM of the cooler?
That could bring temps down some witout having to buy another cooler.

As for the NH-D15 I'd have to say get it if you really want to get another cooler. Nothing wrong with having a good one vs one that just doesn't cut it.
Not to mention you can always use it later on another build too if you want.
 

Yea I know CAM sucks lol.
 
I verified with HWInfo...says the same.

NT-H1/H2, Kryonaut, Gelid GC Extreme

Wiping the drive is a very good thing to do on a machine you are selling.   You can use a Windows Media Creation Tool to take care of the wipe, during the process of installing Win10, be sure to delete ALL partitions prior to the installation.

Then you're fine with just wiping it and reinstalling a os

Not exactly. Secure Erase sends a voltage pulse to the cells that resets them to an empty state. This cause considerably less write wear than conventional wiping and is more effective. I've used Magician's Secure Erase on Samsung 850 EVOs and the change in remaining write life was too slight to show up.

Do not waste your time by keeping Windows "as clean as possible". Many users like you ends with broken Windows because they remove too much. Few unnecessary registry entries, few files more etc don't make your Windows worse. Instead of cleaning and worry about that, use your computer for better things. It's computer, you can (and should) be able to install and remove tools and programs as much as you want. Let system keeps everything smooth - it's his job. Reinstalling Windows because one program is way too much.

Cleaning registry is dangerous myth described on many websites. It may help in really rare situations (like when system can't boot after YEARS of using and only safe mode works).

Age of driver isn't important. Win10 does install drivers, but you can also install them from site if you like, or if something isn't working. Most drivers don't need updates as there's rarely any significant issues with compatibility or performance needing fixes. GPU drivers are different as they need to be optimized for new applications and games.

Oh yea trust me I try not to install things unless I absolutely have to. I accidentally installed a program I didn't need lol. Just did a clean install of Windows 10.

yep! thanks!

Why not just boot and nuke the hard drive and wipe the SSD normally?

I agree about multiple partitions. While there are valid reasons for having multiple partitions on a drive (such as separating System files from data files), partitions are very inefficient for organizing data. Folders are far better.

Matter of taste, no technical reason to create multiple partitions. If you want a single 6TB partition, then go for it.

If it's within your budget then go for 1TB for sure.

Yea...I think I will pay the extra $80 and just get the 1TB drive.

Well I have a 500GB OS drive and that has two-copies of Windows and a copy of Linux on it.  If I could have afforded more I totally would have, but as pointed out already, a LOT of games don't actually benefit THAT much from an SSD.  I found many were almost as fast as a SATA SSD just by upgrading the CPU.

As others have recommended, I also recommend just swapping out the cpu with a used 6700K or i7 7700K. Keep in mind, that if you were to upgrade to Ryzen you would most likely have to reinstall your windows installation as well, whilst simply swapping out your current processor for either of the i7s stated above would at most require a bios update. The i7 7700K is about on par with a modern day i5 8600K, so should be plenty for most video editing projects and of course very good at gaming and anything else you'd be doing. Hyper threading makes a much bigger difference today than I think many would like to admit.

You just need the latest bios from the Asus website, flash it onto the motherboard with EZ Flash (in the BIOS), and you are good to go.
 
If you already have the latest BIOS version from the ASUS site.
Congratz! Your cpu should work immediately  

The Intel Z170 SATA ports are what are supported by the Z170 chipset on the motherboard. The Asmedia SATA ports are provided by an additional controller added to allow for additional SATA ports on the motherboard beyond the limitations of the Z170 chipset. This is typically only present on the more premium/high end motherboards, such as your Asus Maximus VIII Hero.

The Z170 only supports a maximum of 6 SATA ports.
https://ark.intel.com/products/90591/Intel-Z170-Chipset
 
At the end of the day they all do the same job and all provide Sata III (6.0Gb/s) speed and the motherboard/OS will handle them all the same way, with the aforementioned exception when the M.2 slot is running in SATA mode and two of the SATA ports are disabled [since they share bandwidth].

It shouldn't matter which they're plugged in to since you're using a PCIe (NVMe) based card in the M.2 slot. It's only when the M.2 slot is running in SATA mode (SATA based M.2 SSDs) that 2 of the SATA ports (SATA6G_1 & SATA6G_2) are disabled.
 
 

you can also use blues and barracudas in a nas, they will work fine. Its mostly marketing between the drive sku's. And many nas boxes won't even benfit from the tler features, and the vibration restance isn't needed that much as there is often rubber to absorb vibrations.

That looks good. Them main idea is that having a ssd is much faster, and preferably different from the boot drives.
 
For the edit ssd, look at the mx500 and micro 1100 aswell, good ssds for cheaper

Nah, I'd just get the external drive because it's cheaper, honestly. The equivalent internal desktop drive is $199 if you buy it on its own. Now, you know exactly what you're going to get with that purchase, but that's a $60 premium.
 
It's up to you if you want to spend that extra money, but personally I wouldn't. You also definitely don't need USB 3.1 for a mechanical drive, that would really only matter if you had an SSD. The drive will hit its mechanical limits long before it hits even half the USB 3.0 bandwidth cap.