Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Wi RoZ]

On 4/21/2024 at 9:12 PM, Motifator said:

I see a cowboy in here, LS. Belongs in the TOYS CAR gallery out of Turkey, if you know what I mean. The ultimate meme machine out of a kiddy's toy car called a Corvette. Wanna know what's funny? Generations wise, all the way from the TPI Vette which had LT's and different Chevy blocks, TO THE 2006 Vette, 0-60 is not too much different. Nearly all the power is lost from wheelspin because MUH AMERICAN V8 RWD. You have no traction you have no power. All the models deal their 0-60's around 6 secs. So it does not, speed wise, matter whether you get a 86 electronically injected Vette or a fully blown package C6 from 2006 with the HUD up the windshield...

Don't start on the BUT NO HURR I CAN INFUSE AND MOD THE LS either. It'll make you look even more of an American idiot.

The VQ37 is far better of an engine than anything LS, because it is put in real luxury cars not kid's toys R us shit like Vettes, Camaros, etc. Sounds good too. 

If TRUCKS are the topic, you may indeed wanna resort to something OTHER than LS. While LS probably puts down a decent amount of torque, you likely want a turbocharged diesel for that task cause torque is the key to the pull. You want to pull big you want big torque, like say a 3.0 V6 with a turbocharger on, or even bigger... that's how you reach big carrying boats and the stuff. At least in where I live, next to the shore...

Looking at the torque numbers of an LS1 found in a 06 Vette... Sahibinden says 565 Nm, but this is not just because it's torque bias or anything. It's more because of sheer displacement size of the LS, it's not an efficient engine. In city, in a truck configuration, with the oil prices.. MPG will murder your wallet. Stay far away.

Get a diesel, diesels almost ALWAYS get FAR MORE MPG. Something to do with the way they're configured. I'm not sure what you're trying to pull, but probably a turbo diesel is all you ever need for basic truck tasking.

Which GM-owner did you wrong?  

 

Also, you can gear for torque. It's about the convience while pulling, and yeah, turbo diesels are the best option for that.

[Motifator]

4 hours ago, Wi RoZ said:

Which GM-owner did you wrong?  

 

Also, you can gear for torque. It's about the convience while pulling, and yeah, turbo diesels are the best option for that.

GM makes garbage for the utmost part, everyone knows that. Even all the way up their quality scale, going up to the Cadillacs... they're barely up there with 10 year old German or Japanese or even Korean counterparts.

[Vonrottes]

Well now that this is done, I'll show it off so no one can try to talk me out of doing it
I'm a trained professional, please do not attempt.

 

Truck has 70.4mm hubs, Camaros have a 67.4mm hub....closest shop I found that would machine the center bore was a two hour drive away.... a little bit of googling and $13 on a carbide pattern bit using a spare wheel adapter with the right center bore bolted to the rotor so it's centered.

Went slow and for once the internet was right, cast iron is easy to machine with a wood bit, not nearly as "grabby" as aluminum.

did have a little bit of chatter I can clean up with a flap wheel.

 

Just need to get some gear oil, a new brake line for the axle and new hoses for the calipers and then I'm ready to put these on.

[Bitter]

10 minutes ago, Vonrottes said:

Well now that this is done, I'll show it off so no one can try to talk me out of doing it
I'm a trained professional, please do not attempt.

 

Truck has 70.4mm hubs, Camaros have a 67.4mm hub....closest shop I found that would machine the center bore was a two hour drive away.... a little bit of googling and $13 on a carbide pattern bit using a spare wheel adapter with the right center bore bolted to the rotor so it's centered.

Went slow and for once the internet was right, cast iron is easy to machine with a wood bit, not nearly as "grabby" as aluminum.

did have a little bit of chatter I can clean up with a flap wheel.

 

Just need to get some gear oil, a new brake line for the axle and new hoses for the calipers and then I'm ready to put these on.

Save yourself the trouble now and just buy a 2nd set of rotors and machine them up the same so you already have a spare set ready to go, you'll thank yourself later on. You can spray them down with some fluid film or some engine oil and pack them in big ziploc bags to keep from rusting in storage.

[Vonrottes]

13 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Save yourself the trouble now and just buy a 2nd set of rotors and machine them up the same so you already have a spare set ready to go, you'll thank yourself later on. You can spray them down with some fluid film or some engine oil and pack them in big ziploc bags to keep from rusting in storage.

Hopefully before I need new rotors I'll have a better rear end that I can justify having the axle machined to the correct size.

 

Machining a stock 7.5 axle seems.....like a large waste of money to me, I mean it's held up just fine to a bolt on 5.3 with all the torque management enabled. I fear any more power than the maybe 300hp it makes at the crank is going to send the 4l60e or the 7.5 to the junkyard in the sky I'd be much more comfortable with a 8.5 or a ford 8.8. 

[Dillpickle23422]

Last day of school shenanigans

 

 

 

[8tg]

The money pit has been money pitted

entire engine rebuild, new gaskets all around, new vacuum lines, new rear brakes, new radiator, etc, etc, etc

new problem, tiny coolant leak, not enough to worry about immediately but I’m gonna have to bring it back to them to figure out what they missed 

 

in the meantime, a detail inside and out

 

is it safe to spray lemon pledge on your engine shit? Maybe

at worst it’ll smell like warm lemon pledge 

I used a microfiber wash mitt and just soaked that fucker in pledge and then went to town on stuff like the window black plastic trim, the headlights, all the hoses, the air intake, etc 

I took a WD-40 soaked scotch brite pad to anything corroded like the ac lines and the intake manifold and then wiped them off, so that’ll probably smell like burning WD-40 briefly

gonna be an amazing combination of engine stank next time I drive it 

[Dillpickle23422]

6 minutes ago, 8tg said:

The money pit has been money pitted

entire engine rebuild, new gaskets all around, new vacuum lines, new rear brakes, new radiator, etc, etc, etc

new problem, tiny coolant leak, not enough to worry about immediately but I’m gonna have to bring it back to them to figure out what they missed 

 

in the meantime, a detail inside and out

 

is it safe to spray lemon pledge on your engine shit? Maybe

at worst it’ll smell like warm lemon pledge 

I used a microfiber wash mitt and just soaked that fucker in pledge and then went to town on stuff like the window black plastic trim, the headlights, all the hoses, the air intake, etc 

I took a WD-40 soaked scotch brite pad to anything corroded like the ac lines and the intake manifold and then wiped them off, so that’ll probably smell like burning WD-40 briefly

gonna be an amazing combination of engine stank next time I drive it 

why do i want one, i've always had a soft spot for odd/hard to come by cars that were basic cars when they came out

 

the color is so nice too

[8tg]

42 minutes ago, Dillpickle23422 said:

why do i want one, i've always had a soft spot for odd/hard to come by cars that were basic cars when they came out

 

the color is so nice too

It’s really cool until you run into a part you can no longer find

like if I have to replace my front calipers ever, I will have to rebuild them with a diy assortment of parts 

that’s not awful, I can measure gaskets or get some shit lathed if needed, but you can’t buy calipers for this car, they don’t exist, the ones that do are for the sedan and hatchback versions, for some reason the wagon has its own special calipers 

 

at least this isn’t that bad of a coolant leak, I have a feeling it’s something small and stupid

[Levent]

On 5/12/2024 at 2:52 AM, Bitter said:

Probably a worn component, bushing, strut mount, joint. Needs a good thorough inspection from someone who knows what they're looking for. Sounds like you're in Europe maybe? A MOT style of inspection should reveal the cause if they're any good at doing one.

Just got back home. Got it on an alignment machine and yeah I was right but one wheel was out by 2 degrees while other was toed in a degree. I we checked to see if there were any worn out bushes n and havent seen anything (though its good thing that I am looking for solid bushes around now).

 

I also found out the 2 liters of MTF for my 02T transmission which I wanted to flush for a while. Any recommendations on how to get fluid into the transmission lol?

[Bitter]

4 hours ago, Levent said:

Just got back home. Got it on an alignment machine and yeah I was right but one wheel was out by 2 degrees while other was toed in a degree. I we checked to see if there were any worn out bushes n and havent seen anything (though its good thing that I am looking for solid bushes around now).

 

I also found out the 2 liters of MTF for my 02T transmission which I wanted to flush for a while. Any recommendations on how to get fluid into the transmission lol?

bottle top pump, they're not super expensive.

[Dillpickle23422]

23 hours ago, 8tg said:

It’s really cool until you run into a part you can no longer find

like if I have to replace my front calipers ever, I will have to rebuild them with a diy assortment of parts 

that’s not awful, I can measure gaskets or get some shit lathed if needed, but you can’t buy calipers for this car, they don’t exist, the ones that do are for the sedan and hatchback versions, for some reason the wagon has its own special calipers 

 

at least this isn’t that bad of a coolant leak, I have a feeling it’s something small and stupid

yeah that's the real bummer with rare and old cars. Thank goodness for Rockauto, but they definitely don't have everything. Little things like calipers that you'd think you can find, you cant

[vetali]

40 minutes ago, Dillpickle23422 said:

yeah that's the real bummer with rare and old cars. Thank goodness for Rockauto, but they definitely don't have everything. Little things like calipers that you'd think you can find, you cant

Sounds like an excuse for a big brake kit.

[Bitter]

1 hour ago, vetali said:

Sounds like an excuse for a big brake kit.

Unfortunately Ford made that slightly difficult on those years of Escort, the caliper is a also the caliper bracket with mounting ears on the knuckle. From what I can recall you can swap whole sets of brake parts, caliper, pads, rotors from smaller to larger with OEM parts but fitting anything from any other Ford model wasn't really possible due to the design of it all. RockAuto doesn't make any disctinction between sedan or wagon, just some casting numbers, wheel sizes, rotor diameters, or if it's rear disc or not. The rear disc would have only been on the 1.8L Escorts which were sedan only and I don't think you can easily convert from drum to disc without ALL the rear parts off a disc car.

 

@8tg  Ford did at least make it sort of easy to ID which brakes go with which car, calipers cast ending in 13 are for 13" wheels and have 9.25 inch rotors, cast ending in 14 are for 14" wheels and have 10.2ish inch rotors. I believe it's really as simple as swapping from the 2213 calipers and rotors to the 2214 calipers and rotors assuming you have the 13" wheel brakes on it. Check the door sticker for what size wheels it came with, that'll tell you which brakes you have. Those sliding pins are ALWAYS binding up on them, the caliper rusts around the boot and pinches down on the pin, they stop moving on the pins, and your brakes suck/wear out prematurely. My Ex had a few Escorts, a sedan and wagon so I still remember some ins and outs of them even though it's been 15 years. You seem semi-local, let me know if you need a hand sometime.  Your coolant leak is probably the lower radiator hose, I believe it exits the water pump right above the AC compressor, probably needs the clamp tightened up. Any reason why you didn't opt to swap for the 2.0 in place of the 1.9? It's a ~25% bump in power, from about 88hp/108ftlb to about 110hp/125ftlb with basically the same MPG. The swap is fairly well documented online in various places. It won't make it a speed demon but I understand it's a fairly notable difference.

[8tg]

18 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Unfortunately Ford made that slightly difficult on those years of Escort, the caliper is a also the caliper bracket with mounting ears on the knuckle. From what I can recall you can swap whole sets of brake parts, caliper, pads, rotors from smaller to larger with OEM parts but fitting anything from any other Ford model wasn't really possible due to the design of it all. RockAuto doesn't make any disctinction between sedan or wagon, just some casting numbers, wheel sizes, rotor diameters, or if it's rear disc or not. The rear disc would have only been on the 1.8L Escorts which were sedan only and I don't think you can easily convert from drum to disc without ALL the rear parts off a disc car.

 

@8tg  Ford did at least make it sort of easy to ID which brakes go with which car, calipers cast ending in 13 are for 13" wheels and have 9.25 inch rotors, cast ending in 14 are for 14" wheels and have 10.2ish inch rotors. I believe it's really as simple as swapping from the 2213 calipers and rotors to the 2214 calipers and rotors assuming you have the 13" wheel brakes on it. Check the door sticker for what size wheels it came with, that'll tell you which brakes you have. Those sliding pins are ALWAYS binding up on them, the caliper rusts around the boot and pinches down on the pin, they stop moving on the pins, and your brakes suck/wear out prematurely. My Ex had a few Escorts, a sedan and wagon so I still remember some ins and outs of them even though it's been 15 years. You seem semi-local, let me know if you need a hand sometime.  Your coolant leak is probably the lower radiator hose, I believe it exits the water pump right above the AC compressor, probably needs the clamp tightened up. Any reason why you didn't opt to swap for the 2.0 in place of the 1.9? It's a ~25% bump in power, from about 88hp/108ftlb to about 110hp/125ftlb with basically the same MPG. The swap is fairly well documented online in various places. It won't make it a speed demon but I understand it's a fairly notable difference.

It’ll get figured out, they work fine for now. If I have to I’ll as I mentioned, make my own rebuild kit. 
didn’t bother with an engine swap of any variety because if it ever gets a new engine, it’s also getting a new rear axel, because it’s going LS3 in that scenario 

[Bitter]

8 hours ago, 8tg said:

It’ll get figured out, they work fine for now. If I have to I’ll as I mentioned, make my own rebuild kit. 
didn’t bother with an engine swap of any variety because if it ever gets a new engine, it’s also getting a new rear axel, because it’s going LS3 in that scenario 

You'd twist that wet noodle of a chassis right in half.

Often very overlooked, front brake wear and overall braking performance is HIGHLY dependent on the rear brakes working properly. Fresh wheel cylinders and hardware springs at each set of shoe change and checking/adjusting the rear brakes every 10-12k miles is basically a must. The Ford style ratcheting adjusters are better at keeping adjustment than the star wheel style BUT the little teeth that click past each other and the spring that holds them together wear. The spring gets weak and that allows the two toothed parts to vibrate which wears the teeth down and the adjuster slips causing the rear brake shoes to over-adjust and drag. Or rust does it's thing and removes the teeth with the same results. It's very repairable with a sharp edged thin fishhook file and some spare time. https://www.amazon.com/Rapala-RHCF4-4-Hook-File/dp/B00FPQS3TO/ The adjusting hardware is basically impossible to find anymore. I had to make this repair on the ex's Escort and my former Mazda.

[Vonrottes]

Huh, well my dumbass just found out the P01 PCM in my Sonoma is capable of running flex fuel. Just need to flash the is from a 2002 Tahoe I think, already have the file downloaded.

And obviously install the fuel composition sensor, which since I already have -AN fittings it's just put the sensor inline with the fuel rails and plug 3 wires into the PCM. Already have a ethanol ready fuel pump... Injectors should be good for now. Think the are 26lb LS1 injectors so... Won't be big enough if I can the 5.3, but will be plenty for a stock/bolt on. Again I'm only estimating it makes like 300hp at the crank as is.. 

[BiG StroOnZ]

Enjoying the way this Third Generation FD with a Viper V10 swap came out:

 

 

Brillian idea IMO, to break away from the usual LS swap.

[Vonrottes]

Getting everything ready to do a bunch of work this weekend.

Ordered a set of PCM mounts brackets so I can actually bolt it down, going to sand blast them and coat them either grey or wrinkle red.

 

Replaced the old, heartthrob HVS muffler that was honestly just as quiet as the stock muffler with the stock v6.. went with magnaflow since i really liked the sound on my g8

 

Crusty old muffler, slight difference in size have a lite adjusting to do on the tailpipe.

 

 

Fuel composition sensor is scheduled for delivery on Friday, so I gotta make a trip to jegs in the morning to get another 90° or a 180° -6an female-female so I can get that installed Friday if it comes in before work and fill up with whatever Sheetz current flex fuel blend is.. currently running the flex fuel tune with the sensor fail default set to 15% for the e15 I run daily, that's what the CEL is on for

[Dillpickle23422]

sent er a little too hard, tried to avoid whacking my mirror off and instead almost hydrolocked my engine in at least 3 feet of water. Airbox was almost underwater, battery was submerged. Immediately shut it off, and it still runs great still after being pulled out. Had like 6 inches of water in the cab though. Thank goodness nothing broke bc it's my daily

[Bitter]

Probably a bad idea to be doing that with a vehicle you depend on to get to work to make money to live.

[Dillpickle23422]

2 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Probably a bad idea to be doing that with a vehicle you depend on to get to work to make money to live.

Luckily I do have access to another vehicle so it wouldn't be a massive issue. I wouldn't have done it if I knew how deep it was around there (hindsight I should have checked)

[Vonrottes]

7 hours ago, Bitter said:

Probably a bad idea to be doing that with a vehicle you depend on to get to work to make money to live.

But that's half the fun of it, going out and abusing the daily like its a dedicated toy.

 

When I took the Sonoma to the track I was hoping I was going to be able to drive it home got that 4l60e life and GM 7.5 10 bolt... Granted I did have to replace the stock G80 govlock diff the following weekend because it started getting intermittently locking but I still drove it home.

[JoaoPRSousa]

Nothing wrong with liking to live dangerously

[Vonrottes]

Oh hello little torsen