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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

2 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

It’s good but I guess we’re just used to them coming out with a super solid product at a lot less money that what it competes with, and (I didn’t look into it much so please correct me) I think the argument they are making is that they didn’t do this? 
 

like the 350Z was amazing for the $. So was the GT-R when it was first released. For like $85k you got a supercar competing machine 

 

kinda like what corvettes do. But with a tad bit more polish? 

I remember the 350z being on the expensive spectrum back in the day. The only thing I can find online of 350z MSRP is 36.5k for the base in 2009. That translates well in favor of the new z if you manage to get it for MSRP (you won't).

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9 hours ago, vetali said:

I remember the 350z being on the expensive spectrum back in the day. The only thing I can find online of 350z MSRP is 36.5k for the base in 2009. That translates well in favor of the new z if you manage to get it for MSRP (you won't).

I'd argue in 2009 it was almost not relevant anymore. What about 2003? 

Also holy crap that car was around for a looooong time

 

edit: 2003 was $26k (about $40k in todays junk dollars) according to this: https://www.autoblog.com/buy/2003-Nissan-350Z/specs/

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9 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

I'd argue in 2009 it was almost not relevant anymore. What about 2003? 

Also holy crap that car was around for a looooong time

 

edit: 2003 was $26k (about $40k in todays junk dollars) according to this: https://www.autoblog.com/buy/2003-Nissan-350Z/specs/

MeanwhileScreenshot_20220517-232223_Facebook.thumb.jpg.cfe8d0acb7a6548062b444b4cc2872d3.jpg

 

Almost $24k 

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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1 hour ago, iDeFecZx said:

Meanwhile

 

Almost $24k 

hard to imagine any scenario where I'd opt for a Z over a same-year-or-newer C5 or C6 corvette in the same price range.

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Regardless of money, I do like the new Z. It’s a cool car. 
 

i do kinda feel like it should be a little cheaper still though too, even though it’s arguably priced /right/. 
 

but I only buy depreciated used cars anyway so what does it matter? Lol 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

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Anyone else see the Smart Crossblade and think, "Gee!  That looks like the Pontiac Stinger prototype from 30 years ago!"?

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15 hours ago, IPD said:

Anyone else see the Smart Crossblade and think, "Gee!  That looks like the Pontiac Stinger prototype from 30 years ago!"?

I think the back of the eclipse cross looks vaguely like an aztec

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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Took my 2005 5.4 Triton F150 FX4 to the Ford dealership to get my exhaust manifold replaced. They said that they wanted to take the whole engine out because the bolts were going to break. The reasoning? Well, little bits could get in the engine. 

image.thumb.jpeg.f81f5a99844870d4133c3ad50fa0d5e3.jpeg

 

IT WOULD HAVE TO GO HALF A FOOT UPWARDS. JUST SHOVE FCKING PAPER TOWEL IN THE HOLE

(picture not of my engine, but an example engine)

Dude, I get that this is one of the most difficult exhaust manifolds to replace, that's why I took it to the dealer (my mistake). But there is no reason to freak out about something that can be solved by paper towel/shop rags. I know that the studs will break. I know that the bolts will break, but unless you intentionally do something to get metal bits in the engine, you aren't going to get any in there.

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16 hours ago, IPD said:

Anyone else see the Smart Crossblade and think, "Gee!  That looks like the Pontiac Stinger prototype from 30 years ago!"?

No. I just see stupid. You take a dangerous car that has a reason to be dangerous (MPG, except I could get double that MPG from a Honda Insight), then make it more dangerous, and take away the MPG. What do you have? Nothing. No reason for this to exist. At least sports cars are fun, even though they also have no reason to exist. But this thing is slow, it looks dumb, and it is dumb.

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On 5/16/2022 at 9:58 PM, IPD said:

Honestly, the new NSX is far further from the old NSX tree

Agreed, for a car that is supposed to be advanced, it looks bloated, and it looked dated when it came out (the new one I mean), like a laptop from 2003. 

Much unlike its predecessors. It also wasn't groundbreaking in any way. You had the McLaren P1 and Porsche 918 Spyder who did the same thing, better, and earlier. (we don't talk about the BMW i8, that thing is just dumb)

image.thumb.png.cd23de929df7c814d7b9818d40324320.png

 

Look at it. Its bulbous ass looks awkward.

image.thumb.png.21ec866b9b0cc1cdb56055d8cc46307f.png

 

This, while dated, looks better.

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There's a story here but I don't know it. Steering is straight ahead, stuck a wheel on one side just to get a skate under it to push it to the lift. 

I'm unrelated news, I have a working Valeo LED fog light without an external lens.

IMG_20220519_123341.jpg

IMG_20220519_123510.jpg

IMG_20220519_123503.jpg

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6 hours ago, DANK_AS_gay said:

No. I just see stupid. You take a dangerous car that has a reason to be dangerous (MPG, except I could get double that MPG from a Honda Insight), then make it more dangerous, and take away the MPG. What do you have? Nothing. No reason for this to exist. At least sports cars are fun, even though they also have no reason to exist. But this thing is slow, it looks dumb, and it is dumb.

I'm with Doug DeMuro though.  Smart Crossblade looks stupid and isn't practical above 30-35mph, but it would be insanely fun to have for recreation.  Same reason why people love taking the doors/roof off their Wrangler's.  Only the crossblade is way lower to the ground, which gives you more of an impression of speed.

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

There's a story here but I don't know it. Steering is straight ahead, stuck a wheel on one side just to get a skate under it to push it to the lift. 

I'm unrelated news, I have a working Valeo LED fog light without an external lens.

IMG_20220519_123341.jpg

IMG_20220519_123510.jpg

IMG_20220519_123503.jpg

How many pedestrians died this time?

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9 hours ago, DANK_AS_gay said:

Took my 2005 5.4 Triton F150 FX4 to the Ford dealership to get my exhaust manifold replaced. They said that they wanted to take the whole engine out because the bolts were going to break. The reasoning? Well, little bits could get in the engine. 

To be fair, back in the day the book stated to remove cab and lift engine up to remove the manifolds. I imagine those jobs are jobs that nobody wants to do, so they price it into oblivion so the customer doesn't do it.

 

... kinda like what we do with the old Passports.

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Yep. They don't want to screw with it. Good luck, there's some clearance issues getting tools and torch in there but there's some special tools if you have a MIG welder that are supposed to get the broken bolts out. I suggest you don't use Dorman parts, they'll fail. Use studs, not bolts.

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1 hour ago, vetali said:

To be fair, back in the day the book stated to remove cab and lift engine up to remove the manifolds. I imagine those jobs are jobs that nobody wants to do, so they price it into oblivion so the customer doesn't do it.

 

... kinda like what we do with the old Passports.

I feel like lifting the cab and replacing the whole engine might be quicker lol

.

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4 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

I feel like lifting the cab and replacing the whole engine might be quicker lol

In my experience the studs aren't too bad to remove. Its getting the old manifold out and then tightening the new one that sucks.

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Yeah, I ended up getting Dorman studs and a Dorman manifold. @Bitter

I was told by some mechanics at the place I did my internship at that they were OEM or better, and usually better, in terms of quality. It was also cheap.

14 hours ago, vetali said:

To be fair, back in the day the book stated to remove cab and lift engine up to remove the manifolds. I imagine those jobs are jobs that nobody wants to do, so they price it into oblivion so the customer doesn't do it.

 

... kinda like what we do with the old Passports.

Yeah, but why lie? If you don't want to do it, tell me, and give me the number of someone who will. Lying about BS like bits of metal getting in the engine (possible, if you have no brain, and don't shove paper towel in the exhaust port/exhaust on the engine) makes things that much worse. I'm mad about the lying, not the fact that he didn't want to do it.

 

I know it's a tough job, and at this point, I am going to have to do it. I guess that was the point of getting a broken truck, learning how to fix it. I just didn't want to do something so involved yet.

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1 hour ago, DANK_AS_gay said:

Yeah, I ended up getting Dorman studs and a Dorman manifold. @Bitter

I was told by some mechanics at the place I did my internship at that they were OEM or better, and usually better, in terms of quality. It was also cheap.

Yeah, but why lie? If you don't want to do it, tell me, and give me the number of someone who will. Lying about BS like bits of metal getting in the engine (possible, if you have no brain, and don't shove paper towel in the exhaust port/exhaust on the engine) makes things that much worse. I'm mad about the lying, not the fact that he didn't want to do it.

 

I know it's a tough job, and at this point, I am going to have to do it. I guess that was the point of getting a broken truck, learning how to fix it. I just didn't want to do something so involved yet.

Service advisors don't have to know anything about cars to sell work. Its pretty common at dealerships to have advisors that don't know anything about auto repair, rather the ability to sell.

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9 minutes ago, vetali said:

Service advisors don't have to know anything about cars to sell work. Its pretty common at dealerships to have advisors that don't know anything about auto repair, rather the ability to sell.

I saw that when I was doing my internship as well, but it was the people who ordered parts, and only one of the service advisors, that had no clue what was going on. They had to order the same part 3 times before they correctly ordered it. They would order the wrong one, or the wrong oil, or the wrong fluid, or the wrong year, etc. Made no sense.

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I just discovered that the Corvette E-Ray is coming.  AWD Corvette?  Convertible?  Christ, all they have to do is announce that Statutory Grape is a color option, and I'll just sign over my eternal soul right now on pre-order.

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23 minutes ago, DANK_AS_gay said:

I saw that when I was doing my internship as well, but it was the people who ordered parts, and only one of the service advisors, that had no clue what was going on. They had to order the same part 3 times before they correctly ordered it. They would order the wrong one, or the wrong oil, or the wrong fluid, or the wrong year, etc. Made no sense.

Parts guys don't make a lot of money unless they are very good. They usually work the back counter if they are.

 

We had a rule that if you were a service advisor you need prior experience with performing auto repair. I say had, because they're hiring someone with no experience other than sales at another dealer to fill an "urgent" role even though we are slow AF right now. So gonna be interesting. I already had one foot out the door, but some family stuff happened a few weeks ago and I have to stay for a bit longer. I am hoping before year end I am out of this trade.

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We've put 8 Dorman manifolds on 4 F250's, everyone cracked and broke worse than the OEM parts we took off. The OEMs lasted about 90K, the Dorman did 20K or less. The 5th truck got OEM parts and was fine for another 50K miles. One Dorman manifold lost about a 1 inch triangle of cast iron and the others flaked off rust so fast they cracked in 2 places. Totally shit quality cast iron. Dorman used to make good parts but haven't in at least 15 years. Their control arms are on our shit list because they use much thinner steel and have had issues holding pressed ball joints...that they came with preinstalled. They make it out of warranty sure but we look like assholes selling junk parts so we just avoid Dorman as much as possible now. Sloppy parts made from inferior materials. Hard pass!

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Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06A-906-033-BGU.lbl
   Part No: 06A 906 033 EM
   Component: SIMOS71 1.6l 2VG    9428  
   Revision: --H03---    Serial number: 
   Coding: 0000071
   Shop #: 
   VCID: 
   VINID: 

3 Faults Found:
16555 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 
            P0171 - 006 - System Too Lean
             Freeze Frame:
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Lambda Factor: 1.000
                    Voltage: 0.160 V
                    Lambda: 24.6 %
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Lambda Factor: 1.055
                    Voltage: 0.040 V
                    Lambda: 25.0 %

17549 - Load Calculation Cross Check 
            P1141 - 007 - Implausible Value - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Lambda: 34.8 %
                    Lambda: -35.2 %
                    Lambda: 34.8 %
                    T.B. Angle: 5.6°

16555 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 
            P0171 - 006 - System Too Lean
             Freeze Frame:
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Lambda Factor: 1.000
                    Voltage: 0.160 V
                    Lambda: 24.6 %
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Lambda Factor: 1.055
                    Voltage: 0.040 V
                    Lambda: 25.0 %

Readiness: 0000 0000

"Lambda: -35.2 %"
Great, either its on its way out or needs a burnout..... (will see, ill have a longer trip a few weeks later) Also that middle error is coming from the ABS i think:
 

ddress 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 1K0-907-379-MK70.lbl
   Part No: 1K0 907 379 P
   Component: ASR FRONT MK70      0105  
   Coding: 0017025
   Shop #: 
   VCID: 

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
            013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent

 

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On 5/19/2022 at 1:21 PM, Bitter said:

There's a story here but I don't know it. Steering is straight ahead, stuck a wheel on one side just to get a skate under it to push it to the lift. 

I'm unrelated news, I have a working Valeo LED fog light without an external lens.

 

 

IMG_20220519_123503.jpg

Nice Riviera out there.

"If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask someone else first"..... Nirvana
"Whadda ya mean I ain't kind? Just not your kind"..... Megadeth
Speaking of things being "All Inclusive", Hell itself is too.

 

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