Questions about liquid metal TIM

[PrimeSonic]

So the more and more I see the results of deliding and the amazing thermal transfer of liquid metal based TIMs, the more tempted I am to take the plunge.

I'd like to do some reading on that first before I commit to it.

 

I'd very curious to know how this stuff will react to the bare copper water blocks I use on my system.

I'm also hoping to gather some info on what insulation can be used to mitigate the risks involved in the event of a slight leakage.

This video certainly showed some ideas.

I would ask if there's any further reading I can do before I truly decide to go through with it.

[Mick Naughty]

So you’re gonna get rid of the ihs and run a block directly on the die?  Wouldn’t do that myself for long term. 

 

Appropriate nail polish can be used for insolation. 

[PrimeSonic]

Just now, Mick Naughty said:

So you’re gonna get rid of the ihs and run a block directly on the die?  Wouldn’t do that myself for long term. 

I should have clarified:

 

The bare die is my GPU.

Obviously there is no IHS there, only the water block on the bare die.

 

For the CPU, I do intend on keeping the IHS, but my understanding is that optimally, I'd be using the liquid metal both between the die and the IHS and between the IHS and the water block.

Please do correct me if I am mistaken.

[Mick Naughty]

You can, just isn’t preferred to use metal on blocks. It can eat them, so good for a test just not so much for long term. 

 

I think nuckle plating is better for that but I can’t recall right now. Still isn’t preferred. 

[PrimeSonic]

4 minutes ago, Mick Naughty said:

You can, just isn’t preferred to use metal on blocks. It can eat them, so good for a test just not so much for long term.

So normally the liquid metal TIM would only be between the IHS and the die?

I say this knowing that my GPU core temps go up much slower than my CPU temps.

Again, the GPU is a bare die against a bare copper water block with Arctic Silver in between.

[TVwazhere]

2 minutes ago, PrimeSonic said:

So normally the liquid metal TIM would only be between the IHS and the die?

I say this knowing that my GPU core temps go up much slower than my CPU temps.

Again, the GPU is a bare die against a bare copper water block with Arctic Silver in between.

I highly recommend checking out Gamers Nexus's videos on liquid metal. They go into a lot more detail about Liquid metal Specifics

 

[For Science!]

6 minutes ago, PrimeSonic said:

So normally the liquid metal TIM would only be between the IHS and the die?

I say this knowing that my GPU core temps go up much slower than my CPU temps.

Again, the GPU is a bare die against a bare copper water block with Arctic Silver in between.

I think GPU die is not worth the hassle of liquid metal. I believe the larger die size of the GPU means that it is not so dependent on the TIM being super thermally conductive. Most tests that I've seen on youtube conclude you only get really <5 degrees gain with LM. I recently changed my MX-4 on my GPUs to Kryonaut, and observed some gains, and think that this is the sweet spot for GPU die thermal paste without risking shorting anything.

[PrimeSonic]

23 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

I highly recommend checking out Gamers Nexus's videos on liquid metal.

Having now watched the video, they really only talked about the main performance benefits of liquid metal and talked at length about the underperformance of the stock TIM.

 

What I was hoping for was info on how liquid metal affects the materials it comes in contact with and some info on best practices on protecting the hardware from electrical shorts.

[DocSwag]

33 minutes ago, PrimeSonic said:

So normally the liquid metal TIM would only be between the IHS and the die?

I say this knowing that my GPU core temps go up much slower than my CPU temps.

Again, the GPU is a bare die against a bare copper water block with Arctic Silver in between.

You don't really need LM between the IHS and cooler, it doesn't make much of a difference whereas it does if used between the die and ihs.

[PrimeSonic]

1 minute ago, DocSwag said:

You don't really need LM between the IHS and cooler, it doesn't make much of a difference whereas it does if used between the die and IHS.

That's good to know. It would save me a lot of worry about the LM having weird interactions with bare copper.

[wojtepanik]

gallium eats though alluminium, copper is fine

[AngryBeaver]

From my experience... liquid metal on a bare copper block does 2 different things. First it does react with the copper and tends to etch it slightly... second this interaction also causes the liquid metal to dry up after a year or so... so you will need to constantly replace the liquid metal to keep satisfactory results. If you can find a nickle plated block for the contact to the die you will have little issue then.

 

If not then it might be better to go with a high end TIM and skip the liquid metal. Liquid metal normally only makes a drastic difference when used on delidded cpu's anyways.

[PrimeSonic]

40 minutes ago, AngryBeaver said:

...

Thanks for the tips.

My understanding now is that I would be using liquid metal between the CPU die and the IHS, and then a normal TIM (like Grizzly Kryonaut or Arctic Silver) between the IHS and the water block.

 

In this setup, there would be no contact between the LM and the bare copper.

[AngryBeaver]

4 minutes ago, PrimeSonic said:

Thanks for the tips.

My understanding now is that I would be using liquid metal between the CPU die and the IHS, and then a normal TIM (like Grizzly Kryonaut or Arctic Silver) between the IHS and the water block.

 

In this setup, there would be no contact between the LM and the bare copper.

Correct. My response was directed at using it on the GPU.

 

When it comes to cpu and delidding then liquid metal is a MUST in my opinion. Just make sure to use a tool if you are not savvy with a razor. Then it is also a good idea to use either clear nail polish or liquid electrical tape to paint over the connectors on the top of the chip. I personally also use clear tab around the die so that if any of the liquid metals comes off the die it doesn't contact the rest of the chip. Then when done peal it off and mount the IHS back on.. I personally secure it with gasket maker.

 

Superglue works, but I have seen cases where it actually would damage the chip when mounting pressure was applied because the superglue has no give, where the gasket maker does. This makes because when you apply mount pressure back to the IHS it will make the chip flare on the sides from the down force.. so having a little give in your adhesive is a good thing.

 

You can also just let the clamp hold down the IHS, but I have always preferred to secure it.