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EK M.2 Heat Sinks and EK FG accessories.

The Benjamins
36 minutes ago, YedZed said:

How hot does an M.2 drive have to get for it to be a problem aside from quicker wear? Is it possible to damage it in a short amount of time with the temperatures you normally get or is it a faster death sort of thing?

It's more of the speeds will be throttled from the heat of an extended file transfer/usage in general.

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5 minutes ago, samcool55 said:

That's nice. Honestly i can see this ending up a big thing if they keep expanding (which they likely will) and maybe other brands joining the aluminium master race (f you aluminum :D)

They look really nice IMO. my only concern now is a pump and/or res upgrade. these update covers mostly everything else.

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Needs water.

 

Must watercool ALL THE THINGS.

 

Maybe combine that with VRM waterblocks for the X299 motherboards. Although from the sounds of things you'd almost need a separate loop for those.

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1 minute ago, Trik'Stari said:

Needs water.

 

Must watercool ALL THE THINGS.

 

Maybe combine that with VRM waterblocks for the X299 motherboards. Although from the sounds of things you'd almost need a separate loop for those.

I want to water cool my Bios chip. :^)

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3 minutes ago, The Benjamins said:

I want to water cool my Bios chip. :^)

I want to watercool the motors on my Noctua fans.

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On the topic of M.2 drives, I'm a little bit surprised that with the advent of multiple M.2 slots, more manufacturers haven't added a slot on the bottom of the MoBo.  I know they do it on MiniTX boards, but it seems like it would make sense to have at least one underneath on a standard/Micro ATX board (probably even more so on the micro).  If that's your boot drive, it's probably unlikely that you'll be swapping it out often.

 

Actually, one thing I'd like to see (and am surprised I haven't) is M.2 extenders - similar to PCIe extenders - so you can run a cable and connect the drives away from the MoBo.  An example use case, would be where the video card may be overheating the M.2 drive.

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6 hours ago, TheRandomness said:

It's more of the speeds will be throttled from the heat of an extended file transfer/usage in general.

So, what temperature does my drive have to be for me to think about putting a heatsink on it? Cuz my drive, which is right next to my CPU, gets to about 45C. If it's throttling, is there a way to tell?

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15 minutes ago, YedZed said:

So, what temperature does my drive have to be for me to think about putting a heatsink on it? Cuz my drive, which is right next to my CPU, gets to about 45C. If it's throttling, is there a way to tell?

If it's throttling, transfer speeds will drop. Those temps are fine afaik.

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Inb4 EK NVMe water blocks to add to your loop.

 

On topic though, I agree they look sexy AF and now I kinda want one, I mean my SM951 is one of the drives known for overheating so I guess I should for the sake of my hardware.

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1 minute ago, Master Disaster said:

Inb4 EK NVMe water blocks to add to your loop.

 

On topic though, I agree they look sexy AF and now I kinda want one, I mean my SM951 is one of the drives known for overheating so I guess I should for the sake of my hardware.

It would be nice to see reviews to see if it can really help with HOT NVME drives.

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On 5.7.2017 at 2:30 PM, ericlee30 said:

Wow! That's so sad, they copied aquacomputers design for the m.2 to a tee. Even the same clip design is the exact same. I'm really disapointed in that. EK you are better than that! You have always stood out from the crowd, I guess this time was a straight up money grab for you guys ?

Dont be like one of those Thermaltake haters. A copied product is not necessarily bad. 

 

 

 

 

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On 7/5/2017 at 7:18 AM, rn8686 said:

The M.2 heatsinks look cool, but I dont think they will be very effective. 

I believe some other brand of it was tested and found to be not only not effective at all but counterproductive.

 

As speeds climb up active cooling will probably be required at one point, companies will have to get smart about it to come up with cooling solutions.

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26 minutes ago, Master Disaster said:

Inb4 EK NVMe water blocks to add to your loop.

 

On topic though, I agree they look sexy AF and now I kinda want one, I mean my SM951 is one of the drives known for overheating so I guess I should for the sake of my hardware.

There was a motherboard already with an EK block that covers CPU, VRMs and the first m.2 slot below the CPU:

 

Image result for asus motherboard ek block

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31 minutes ago, Master Disaster said:

Inb4 EK NVMe water blocks to add to your loop.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-i750-ssd

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18 hours ago, Jito463 said:

On the topic of M.2 drives, I'm a little bit surprised that with the advent of multiple M.2 slots, more manufacturers haven't added a slot on the bottom of the MoBo.  I know they do it on MiniTX boards, but it seems like it would make sense to have at least one underneath on a standard/Micro ATX board (probably even more so on the micro).  If that's your boot drive, it's probably unlikely that you'll be swapping it out often.

 

Actually, one thing I'd like to see (and am surprised I haven't) is M.2 extenders - similar to PCIe extenders - so you can run a cable and connect the drives away from the MoBo.  An example use case, would be where the video card may be overheating the M.2 drive.

this kinda drops the appeal of m.2 drives, as they are clean and require no cables, whats to then differentiate the m.2 ssd to a 2.5 ssd?

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34 minutes ago, goodtofufriday said:

Aluminium?

 

INB4 stripped threads on fittings

that makes no sense. aluminium is stronger then the plastic you insert them into and all the fitting come pre attached except the GPU block and Rad.

 

You have the same chance of striping these as you do with any other EK kit.

 

Also the EK instructions on ANY part says to not over tighten they should be hand tight.

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3 minutes ago, The Benjamins said:

that makes no sense. aluminium is stronger then the plastic you insert them into and all the fitting come pre attached except the GPU block and Rad.

 

You have the same chance of striping these as you do with any other EK kit.

 

Also the EK instructions on ANY part says to not over tighten they should be hand tight.

You doubt the ignorance of people new to water cooling. Who strips fittings on tubes? Of course I would be talking about blocks and rads. 

 

Aluminium is weaker than most metals when it comes to things like threads, so any novice could easily strip them.

 

You or I well know about such things, but the average consumer who might be trying it for the first time, they could even go as far as to mix aluminum with nickel or copper. 

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1 minute ago, goodtofufriday said:

You doubt the ignorance of people new to water cooling. Who strips fittings on tubes? Of course I would be talking about blocks and rads. 

 

Aluminium is weaker than most metals when it comes to things like threads, so any novice could easily strip them.

 

You or I well know about such things, but the average consumer who might be trying it for the first time, they could even go as far as to mix aluminum with nickel or copper. 

Have you stripped any before?

 

I have over tighten on one of the older budget kits and cracked the CPU block. which caused it to leak. but to strip aluminium fittings it going to require a power tool. The threads are thick and would take a lot of force to strip them.

 

as for mixing metals it is a risk but they label every part with a warning sticker. and they will sell upgrade kits.

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4 minutes ago, The Benjamins said:

Have you stripped any before?

 

I have over tighten on one of the older budget kits and cracked the CPU block. which caused it to leak. but to strip aluminium fittings it going to require a power tool. The threads are thick and would take a lot of force to strip them.

 

 

O_o??? How often have you dealt with aluminium anything, or maybe not at all? The most common issue with aluminium screws or the like is stripped heads, threads, and broken heads will using regular hand tools. 

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11 minutes ago, goodtofufriday said:

O_o??? How often have you dealt with aluminium anything, or maybe not at all? The most common issue with aluminium screws or the like is stripped heads, threads, and broken heads will using regular hand tools. 

by hand tools you talking about a 1-2mm hex versus the 8mm hex used on the fittings?

with the provided allen key I doubt you could strip the threads. it is a 1 1/4" thread not some small screw. 

how many 1 1/4" aluminium screws have you used?

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1 minute ago, The Benjamins said:

by hand tools you talking about a 1-2mm hex versus the 8mm hex used on the fittings?

with the provided allen key I doubt you could strip the threads. it is a 1/4" thread not some small screw. 

how many 1 1/4" aluminium screws have you used?

For my work, regularly. Which is why on the outset I said the threads is what will be stripped. Especially by a novice who tries to over tighten, or doesnt place them in correctly to the thread and tries to tighten anyway. Extremely common novice mistake where other metals are little more forgiving. 

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5 minutes ago, goodtofufriday said:

For my work, regularly. Which is why on the outset I said the threads is what will be stripped. Especially by a novice who tries to over tighten, or doesnt place them in correctly to the thread and tries to tighten anyway. Extremely common novice mistake where other metals are little more forgiving. 

I don't think AL is weaker then the plastic they used. I can't manage to strip that.

 

Edit: anyway they are pre installed so even if people could mange to do that it is not that big of a deal.

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1 minute ago, The Benjamins said:

I don't think AL is weaker then the plastic they used. I can't manage to strip that.

Just going to chime in here, I can scratch this kind of threading off with my thingernails, aluminum can quite easily be way weaker than plastic.

Want to custom loop?  Ask me more if you are curious

 

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