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[Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X | Borosilicate Glass Tubing

Revan654
17 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

I would read the post for my glass cutting first. Glass is very dangerous if you do not use the proper gear(The mask is the most important thing so you don't inhale the dust). Second. Make sure you have a dremel and maybe glass snapping tool(Not the cheap ones found on Amazon).

 

This is what I used along with Dremel(You need Diamond tip cutting blade, you can buy Dremel version for 15 dollars or buy the OEM from PPCS for 5 dollars). I mainly used dremel for smaller pieces since the snap method can not be done on them(Not larger piece to grab). You will also need diamond tipped files.

 

When Cutting with Dremel make sure the glass remains wet at all times. I will not get into Glass bending since it's not something that should be tried at home unless you know what your doing since you need a propane torch to reach the degree so glass would bend. Companies already make pre-bent 90 degree glass tubing, That should cover most of the basic runs.

 

I also like to use tape to mark where I'm going to cut/Snap the glass. Make a small dent in it the glass,  I can remove the tape (Tape will not remain once you use Dremel or glass cutter).

Was not aware you could actually bend glass tubing. Though, there also seem to be a lot more precautions with glass over PETG or acrylic... I guess thats why most people stick to fitting bends when doing glass.

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3 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

Was not aware you could actually bend glass tubing. Though, there also seem to be a lot more precautions with glass over PETG or acrylic... I guess thats why most people stick to fitting bends when doing glass.

 

Glass bending is just not DIY project you can do in your room. Acrylic can be bent with a simple heatgun. Your looking at over 3000F if you want to bend glass, if your going for more complex bends you will also need a blowpipe.

 

Thankfully I didn't need to do any kind of dual bends in any of my runs. The simple 90 degree did the job.

 

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4YLubYMl.jpg

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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Yup, I'd probably emphasize straight lines and use the nature of the case (pc-o8) to give myself minimal turns to deal with.  

Want to custom loop?  Ask me more if you are curious

 

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19 hours ago, Damascus said:

Yup, I'd probably emphasize straight lines and use the nature of the case (pc-o8) to give myself minimal turns to deal with.  

 

I should add I use Mayhems Glass over AlphaCool since it works better and it's has a larger ID. I know some who used AlphaCool glass tubing and they complained it was very tight and harder to get inside the fitting.

 

Mayhems checks each glass tubing manually before shipping it out.

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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1 minute ago, Revan654 said:

 

I should add I use Mayhems Glass over AlphaCool since it works better and it's has a larger ID. I know some who used AlphaCool glass tubing and they complained it was very tight and harder to get inside the fitting.

 

Mayhems checks each glass tubing manually before shipping it out.

Thanks, mayhems seems to be king in the tubing game.

Want to custom loop?  Ask me more if you are curious

 

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1 minute ago, Damascus said:

Thanks, mayhems seems to be king in the tubing game.

Pretty much and King when it comes to coolants. Just look at PrimoChill's Vue if you wan to see what happens with improper testing when it comes to coolant. Not to mention they start to add more directions after the product was launched. Mayhem dosen't make hard tubing other then glass. AlphaCool is my next best choice when it comes to PETG/Acrylic.

 

Also if you have a propane blowtorch you will not need the diamond tipped files and the torch will melt the edges and it will slide very easily into the fittings.

 

I can confirm both Barrow & Bitspower works well with Mayhems tubing.

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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Think this would do the trick?1518290478031699847277.thumb.jpg.31dcb7796ec2bf7783d10492e18fd2cc.jpg

Want to custom loop?  Ask me more if you are curious

 

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Wow, just added 20 gold barrow fittings and six day shipping and it's only 80 bucks, that's what a 12 pack of primochill rigid cost before shipping :)

Want to custom loop?  Ask me more if you are curious

 

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59 minutes ago, Damascus said:

Wow, just added 20 gold barrow fittings and six day shipping and it's only 80 bucks, that's what a 12 pack of primochill rigid cost before shipping :)

You don't want to use PrimoChill fittings. They are imperial fittings, Mayhems & AlphaCool tubing is metric and require metric fittings.

 

1 hour ago, Damascus said:

Think this would do the trick?

 

I guess without data I can't really say for sure. I would read up or watch the videos on youtube for doing the tubing ends.

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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1 hour ago, Revan654 said:

You don't want to use PrimoChill fittings. They are imperial fittings, Mayhems & AlphaCool tubing is metric and require metric fittings.

I'm super glad I checked out Barrow, it's going to save me at least $80.  The only barrow piece I have right now is a bulkhead and it's solid. 

Want to custom loop?  Ask me more if you are curious

 

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On 2/10/2018 at 4:53 PM, Damascus said:

I'm super glad I checked out Barrow, it's going to save me at least $80.  The only barrow piece I have right now is a bulkhead and it's solid. 

 

Barrow is cheaper, It's allot harder to get a hold of the fittings within the US and other countries that's not China.There only a few suppliers, ModMyMods being the biggest followed by TitanRig on Amazon(I don't think they carry the new version yet).

 

Barrow is basically Bitspower, Minus color is a bit different(They don't match bitspower fittings). Barrow Black is a bit duller and doesn't have the shinny texture bitspower has. I do really like Barrow new V4 16mm fittings(There no longer carbon copy of Bitspower). Wish there were out when I was ordering fittings.

 

-------

 

Who Wants the 1 Million Dollar PC (Still not sure why it's a million dollars even if you add everything up it doesn't reach 1 million dollars. Not sure if this is an early April fools joke or not.

 

img_1165.jpg

 

Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/valentines-modded-case.html

 

------

 

First RGB Cable 100% Complete, the Y cable is going to be a pain to do (Mainly due to the length, it's very short). I have two idea on how to do it, It's a little more difficult to do since connector and sleeving has to be on the wire while soldering the one side.

 

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----

 

Cable Cleaning:

 

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Cables that still need to be added (Mainly on the right side, This is the left side).

 

- Sata Power

- Sata Data

- EPS Cables

- ATX

- GPU Cables

- RGB Cables

 

---

 

I was able to find to find a Molex quality connector for GPU/PCie. Completely un-water marked.

 

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There also a traditional GPU/PCie style connector it's slightly water marked.

 

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Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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2 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

Barrow is cheaper, It's allot harder to get a hold of the fittings within the US and other countries that's not China.There only a few suppliers, ModMyMods being the biggest followed by TitanRig on Amazon(I don't think they carry the new version yet).

 

Barrow is basically Bitspower, Minus color is a bit different(They don't match bitspower fittings). Barrow Black is a bit duller and doesn't have the shinny texture bitspower has. I do really like Barrow new V4 16mm fittings(There no longer carbon copy of Bitspower). Wish there were out when I was ordering fittings

I'm getting 16 of the gold 16mm ones on Alibaba, an additional $15 usd on 1-2 week shipping.

Want to custom loop?  Ask me more if you are curious

 

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6 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

 

Who Wants the 1 Million Dollar PC (Still not sure why it's a million dollars even if you add everything up it doesn't reach 1 million dollars. Not sure if this is an early April fools joke or not.

 

img_1165.jpg

 

Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/valentines-modded-case.html

its some sort of giveaway but with no way to enter that i can find lol

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally) watch YT and write essays...  nothing, it just sits there collecting dust...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Damascus said:

I'm getting 16 of the gold 16mm ones on Alibaba, an additional $15 usd on 1-2 week shipping.

 

I got my old Barrow fitting from Aliexpress(Different Build), There 3 dollars per fitting.

 

Link: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/431286?spm=2114.10010108.0.0.3c8b3141C7Ezxr

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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2 hours ago, Revan654 said:

 

I got my old Barrow fitting from Aliexpress(Different Build), There 3 dollars per fitting.

 

Link: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/431286?spm=2114.10010108.0.0.3c8b3141C7Ezxr

Yep, I'm getting these ones specifically.

 

 

Barrow  Black Silver  OD16mm Hard tube fitting hand compression fitting G1/4'' OD16mm hard pipe TYKN-K16 V1
http://s.aliexpress.com/jQ3E3U7n?fromSns=Copy to Clipboard 
(from AliExpress Android)

Want to custom loop?  Ask me more if you are curious

 

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Aqua-Computer has officially listed my pump as EOL. Which is strange since Aqua-Computer doesn't have a replacement version that supports AquaBus. I'm guess there new products are about to announced.  Since last firmware to AQ6 also installed updates needed to run the new products.

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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2 hours ago, Soujiro1337 said:

New here, noticed this thread. Went through every page not wanting to skip to the end, because I wanted to see how it was finished, only to find out that it hasn't even been finished after a whole year...

 

 

As I said previous allot of things have held me back like shipping times and small health issues. Plus over the course I re-did a few things when took time to alter.

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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9 hours ago, Soujiro1337 said:

New here, noticed this thread. Went through every page not wanting to skip to the end, because I wanted to see how it was finished, only to find out that it hasn't even been finished after a whole year...

 

 

can't rush art

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CM-CAB-RSAT-30KK-R-1.jpg

 

^ It looks like they look my suggestion and made right angle version.

 

CM-CAB-RIU3-N50KK-R-1.jpg
CM-CAB-IUS3-N50KK-R-1.jpg

 

^ USB Extension Cables have been released, This is one of the few cables that I wouldn't mind using since the wiring and connectors are all the same.

 

@CableMod Any word on US stores stocking the cables? I Seen the cable appear on Euro Sites to buy, nothing on US side.

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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VajlWFbl.jpg

 

^ I flipped over the connector (Polarized Friction Lock) and have it lock with Fan connector which makes it allot harder for connector to fall out. Before it was just to loose for my liking.

 

ppsA249l.jpg

 

^ It's a little hard to tell from the photo, Top connector have two small Ribs which create a tight connection inside the header. Bottom one you can use a normal connector which will also give you a tight connection. I also used this method for AQ & PA3 devices ( Rib version ) which creates a very secure connection.

 

The RGB controller has no way to create a secure connection so you can use any type of connector on that device. Shame it never got a heatsink like AQ6 and PA3 devices.

 

CiBZwskl.jpg

 

After months trying to get my first RGB switch to work I finally got it work correctly due to having a addon slot that is Common cathode.  95% of all RGB headers for the PC are Common Anode.

 

Sealed the wiring to sleeving with adhesive heatshrink. It's one of the few places I would use adhesive heatshrink since normal heatshrink will not hold it due to spacing between the wires. This creates a very strong hold and as long as you use quality heatshrink it will not make a mess with the glue.

 

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^ This thermal Probe for the case which runs on the top of the case to Flow sensor which has slot for additional thermal probe.

 

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^ Some of the wiring from left side of the case which is where the motherboard is at. These are the WaterThermal problems installed inside the radiators, UV Lighting Strip and RGB strip.

 

I used P-Clips attached to Fan mounting holes which gives this a much cleaner look in my opinion then those plastic flat cable clips or zip ties.

 

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^ Still a WIP but there only so much I can do here due to all the cables I have running through my case.

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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The Terminals:

 

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The Wire:

 

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^Inches - Imperial

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^ mm - Metric

 

Settings:

 

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CTX1 vs CTX3

 

Pre-Crimp (2 clicks)

 

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Results:

 

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Double Wire:

 

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With Solder:

 

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Inserting The Wire:

 

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Fully Crimped:

 

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-----

 

Sleeving: Difference

 

ParaCord:

 

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Top: Standard Paracord 550

Middle: Standard Paracord 95

Bottom: CableMod

 

PET:

 

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Top: MDPC-X

Bottom: CableMod

 

-----

 

Once Melted:

 

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End Result:

 

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^ a very quick guide I put together.

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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Nice work... Though I must advice you to sleeve it a little longer up towards the pin on the cable... When I sleeved my cables with mdpc-x I had an issue where if I didn't sleeve the cables all the way up to where it made at least 1-2mm of melted material, the sleeving would just pop off due to the stresses once I bent it! Although if it works for you... Good job! :)

W H E N   T H E   W O R L D   I S   A G A I N S T   Y O U ,   B U I L D   C O M P U T E R S !

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13 hours ago, matias_a_etersen said:

Nice work... Though I must advice you to sleeve it a little longer up towards the pin on the cable... When I sleeved my cables with mdpc-x I had an issue where if I didn't sleeve the cables all the way up to where it made at least 1-2mm of melted material, the sleeving would just pop off due to the stresses once I bent it! Although if it works for you... Good job! :)

 

Trust me I've doing this long enough, My melting process has never failed. Plus I pull on it after to make sure it holds. There is zero gap for the sleeving to come loose from the terminal. I'm not using any OEM items, all Molex Branded terminals.

 

I'm guessing your just using a basic lighter, which can create issues, I use a flameless tool.

 

I put allot of stress on my cables already, there would have come apart by now if there were issues with the melting process.

Current Build: Project Frost
Gaming Rig Build: Project Ice Dragon

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