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W-L

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About W-L

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

System

  • CPU
    Intel 4790K @ 4.8GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z97-Pro
  • RAM
    16GB Kingston Fury 1866MHz
  • GPU
    Gigabyte G1 GTX 970 OC'ed
  • Case
    Modified Corsair Obsidian 650D
  • Storage
    120GB Samsung 840 Pro & 3TB Seagate Barracuda
  • PSU
    Corsair AX760
  • Display(s)
    Dual Dell P2311H
  • Cooling
    Custom Watercooling Loop
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70
  • Mouse
    Corsair M60

Recent Profile Visitors

22,168 profile views
  1. That's a product made by Lian li so they are just a reseller or distributor for them. As for V1 I've recommended them around here for custom work before not heard anything negative back from any around here that I've seen at least.
  2. I've used contact thermocouples for a lot of stuff and those would really be best next best option would be an IR camera or module like the ones you get for phones as a more budget friendly option. For IR guns that aren't overly expensive I use a UNI-T 300S and it's been very reliable for the most part long as it's able to get a reading off a non-metallic surface. A good way to cheat is to apply some painters tape to the surface.
  3. Try 3M scotlite, I've got their silver stuff and that works super nice, the black version is also amazing since it looks like gloss black metallic wrap until you hit it with a bright light or flash. Looks super awesome in photos and for vehicle decals.
  4. It really depends on the suppliers and what polymer they use as some will last while others tend to degrade. As an alternative this method using foam sheets and cutting slits in them work really well:
  5. As suggested try contacting the manufacture for replacement. If you want you can even use regular window glass given the right thickness but just note that if you break windw glass you will have large razer sharp pieces instead of the little pieces when you shatter tempered glass. You can custom order a piece of tempered but that usually will run the price up past $100 due to the need to cut the pane to size then have it go through the tempering process. You cannot cut a sheet of tempered glass.
  6. From what I see that is correct and ports used and shouldn't be an issue. As long as you use the correct inlet and outlet usually the use of 1 of 2 options provided is optional
  7. Vertical mount is the Lian li O11 is pretty common place and would resolve the issue, not to mention you see the watercooling side of the block which most people want to show off. EKWB does have a rotary version like this but i'm not sure if you will gain enough space. https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-releasing-new-revolutionary-rotary-terminal/
  8. No not all thermal pastes are the same but usually you only see at most maybe 5C difference unless it's really crap generic paste. I usually recommend Arctic MX4 paste and use it on a lot of my stuff, other excellent options are Noctua NT-H2 and Thermal grizzly Kryonaut paste.
  9. Hey if it lasts for more than a season of riding and all you need to do is cut up some more inner tube to refresh it then it may be more affordable than getting a premade wheel or more specialized material in that case. Just needs a bit of seasonal maintenance is all
  10. That photo helps, try using something like SBR rubber it's relatively good for wear resistance and when applied with a flexible contact cement adhesive should hold up decently well. For an application like that you will want the drive roller to be spring loaded to allow it some play when the tire flexes and changes shape under load and at speed. Ideally if you can get something like a molded rubber roller that has a thick wall that would work well. You should be able to source stuff like this at an plastics/rubber supplier. https://www.mcmaster.com/rollers/abrasion-resistant-rollers/
  11. The Dremel unit isn't that bad for an education series as they do provide some extras being an education model and service support. If you want a more affordable unit that's still very reliable the Prusa series aren't bad, however they are not enclosed if that is a requirement. They make a smaller mini and also the larger MK3s model. https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-mini/ https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/
  12. You will want to use the same thickness of pads since it can apply extra pressure onto the PCB or cause it to bend if they were too thick. Best thing to do is to use a pair of calipers to measure the thickness of the pads, Also check as there are different thickness of pads usually used on the VRM and power delivery compared to the Vram chips.
  13. Can you print one layer and take a photo of how well it lays down from there we can determine if the first layer adhesion is good to start. Also before printing be sure to always clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol.
  14. Usually they are already current limited by the output pins so there isn't a need for adding inline resistors. Only time that is really needed is if you use red or <3.0V forward voltage LED's which may burn out fast if you don't add a resistor. Going from blue to warm white isn't a problem I'd check the cables for the red one to see if there are any resistors inline.
  15. If you really want to push the space minimizing envelope you can get something like a GPU riser and have it so the GPU is essentially sitting over top of the CPU socket and AIO block and use a smaller PSU like an HD plex unit. That would increase density even more. https://hdplex.com/hdplex-internal-400w-ac-dc-adapter-with-active-pfc-and-19vdc-output.html
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