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About W-L

  • Title
    Technology = Lifeblood

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling


  • CPU
    Intel 4790K @ 4.8GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z97-Pro
  • RAM
    16GB Kingston Fury 1866MHz
  • GPU
    Gigabyte G1 GTX 970 OC'ed
  • Case
    Modified Corsair Obsidian 650D
  • Storage
    120GB Samsung 840 Pro & 3TB Seagate Barracuda
  • PSU
    Corsair AX760
  • Display(s)
    Dual Dell P2311H
  • Cooling
    Custom Watercooling Loop
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70
  • Mouse
    Corsair M60

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21,494 profile views
  1. Usually I use lint free cloth or a microfiber for glass and <50% isopropyl water solution. If it's oily or grimy using a little soap and water helps also. Some of those minor marks are probably micro scratches in the plastic which are inventible during cleaning. If you want to get rid of some of them using something like Novus plastic polish works well.
  2. Please refrain from Necroing old threads as mentioned. It is best to create a new one and use this as a reference point. Tempered glass can sometimes spontaneously shatter due to the large amount of stress internally in the glass after tempering. Be quiet support should be able to help you with obtaining a replacement panel. -Thread Locked-
  3. For the 4 pin fan I'm not completely certain if that is a requirement since this unit uses their aquabus system. Normally for a PWM pump that connection would tie back to the motherboard for pump speed control and monitoring however in this case it looks like in the manual it is an output for either fan control or a flow meter. I'd try to control Aquacomputer directly to see if they are give you a wiring diagram or details of the connectors, odd they didn't include a pictogram of the pump unit with it's accompanying connections. However if you have the aquabus system with a fan hub
  4. Ah ok, I completely missed that! That looks to be just discoloration of the nickel plating, I've had some occurrence similar to that which is relatively normal, similar with a yellowing of the nickel. In both instances the surfaces were not damaged and were scrubbed clean quite easily. It could also be debris in the loop from manufacturing that has settled out since that area would have fairly turbulent flow. It is possible though if you have a lot of copper content in your loop, that the copper ions will slowly migrate and deposit themselves onto the surface of the ni
  5. In your case I don't believe it's oxidization but probably some build up of some sort in the rads that was remaining or dust particles from the newer components and made it's way out and got caught in the fins of the block.
  6. You'd be surprised with used rads I ran pastel back in the day and thought I cleaned them super well. I did a vingear solution and then a baking soaking wash/rinse then set them up to the tap and run water through them for about 15 mins in each direction including a few distilled water flushes at the end About a month in the loop was clouding in the new clear fluid due to a few missed particles here and there making it's way into the fluid. Only real way I've found that really scrubs the rads clean is to use something like the blitz kit which is essentially a phosphoric acid wash t
  7. I believe looking at the specs those are using the high power DDC from Laing which are considered reliable, main thing is having the cooling heatsink for the power electronics which it does have. I'd open it up and inspect the impeller to see if something has cause it to make contact with the housing, but if it's not drawing any power at all when giving it 12V it sounds like something is up with the unit itself.
  8. One very important point to note your fans you have selected the NF-S12A ULN are only 3 pin fans which will not have speed control from the fan hub since that is a 4 pin PWM hub. You will require the PWM 4 pin version for grouped speed control. Personally if you have any rads, filters or any kinds of restrictions in the way of the fans I would recommend the NF-F12 as they are more suited for those applications. The only times I've really recommended airflow fans are in open air applications.
  9. So for that unit to get basic functionality you will need the Sata Power, and 4 pin fan connector in the middle to get an RPM reading and feedback. The two white 4 pin jst type connectors are for RGB IN and RGB OUT to carry the signal along, the unit will not light up unless the input signal for RGB is hooked up. Also for the USB hub that unit looks alright usually I've recommended the NZXT unit which has been good for most applicaitons. https://www.amazon.de/ac-iusbh-m1-intern-Anschlüsse-externe-Anschlüsse-Schwarz/dp/B01IFGFTJ2/
  10. I have some doubts about that especially fi you didn't get noticeably higher GPU temps. I've had block much much worst than that to where all the surfaces have a thin film or pastel particles clinging to the surfaces with no effect on temps. Because you mentioned they are older rads my guess might be that there was some remaining residue or materials that were not 100% cleaned out from previously that made it's way out and started to clog the fine fin array of the GPU block. I'd refill and keep a close eye on it if you notice clogging again like this it may be best during the next
  11. Not all acrylic is affected the same due to slight difference in formulation but in general acrylic is not to be exposed to isopropyl especially at high concentrations or any length of time due to it reacting. PETG is not a very chemically resistant plastic and absolutely cannot be exposed to isopropyl. http://tools.thermofisher.com/content/sfs/brochures/D20480.pdf
  12. That's a bit of an odd size usually quad rads are what you will normally find. If you want extremely large rads Aquacomputer and Watercool may cater to what you are looking for with a 6 x 140mm radiator and some 3x3 120mm and 140mm rads. https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2726 https://shop.watercool.de/Radiators
  13. They exist in regular versions but most of them are advertised as hi-fi or audio power cables. Most will construct their own and sleeve the wire and install custom plugs on the ends. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000164163717.html
  14. Be quiet is pretty good if you want an invertible layout case that is designed for silence. I believe it is their dark base lineup that has that feature.
  15. Those are mediocre, since the perforated mesh has pretty large holes. You would be better with a very fine mesh filter like the ones from SIlverstone or Demciflex. Using dust filter fabric as you mentioned will work and is used in production applications but isn't exactly the most ideal since they do add a fair bit of flow restriction. Your best thing is to try to move the PC off the ground if it's capturing a lot of dust/debris.