[Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X | Borosilicate Glass Tubing

[Fictionvl]

Sad to see that the parts are already outdated. 

[Revan654]

2 hours ago, Fictionvl said:

Sad to see that the parts are already outdated. 

hardware set to be released months from now is already outdated by hardware that's currently in development. Fact is X99 is still one fastest chipsets around.

[Revan654]

 

All motherboard parts are connected. Flow regarding Motherboard: Radiator One Front 560 -> SLI Block -> GPU -> MonoBlock -> Radiator Two Front 420.

 

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This was a PIA to hook-up. It's only PIA due to limited space below the L fitting, You can't put any kind of force on the glass if you do the glass will crack. Unfortunately I had to use pliers to screw the one fitting in. I tried to get a hold of some rubber tip pliers, No hardware store sells them. I could not get any kind of grip on the fitting between case top & the radiator with just using my fingers. I was forced to use pliers which caused the fitting to be scratched up. Thankfully that fitting will not be seen once the cover is placed on the case.

 

 

These are the manually exhaust fitting. I used Barrow fitting instead of Bitspower, They just looked better.

 

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Not sure what to go with here, This will connect the dual Reservoirs with my dual pumps. It's bit harder to get the curved glass into one fitting, since it has to be insert inside the case with all the hardware already installed

 

With the 90 Degree fitting, it gives you a wider bend compared to 90 degree bent glass.

 

*Side-Note* this is the final run, once connected all the tubing will be 100% connected throughout the case.

[Bananasplit_00]

16 hours ago, Revan654 said:

-snip-

id go for the bent glass, looks better if you ask me

[Revan654]

 

The Reservoir to pumps is now complete.

 

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This was a bit tricky due to the fitting kept shifting around when I tried to screw the fitting in. I just ended up taking out the SLI block screw the fitting to it and they re-attaching the SLI to M.2 blocks.

 

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The last bit to be connected, It's going to be using a 60 degree & 45 degree fittings at the two ends.

 

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Cabling, the most PIA part of building a PC. Still have a bit to go until it looks clean.

 

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I think I finally got my RGB switch function to work. Now I need to figure out how to get the RGB part to work. I spent the entire afternoon try to get it light up & nothing so far. Going to add resistors to all the poles to see if that helps.

From another companies Press Release:

" To use the RGB LED: Power the anode at 3-6V and light up the red, green, and blue LEDs by pulling their designated contacts to ground as you desire – there’s a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 1K ohm resistor in series with the LED cathodes to keep the LED current at around 20mA. You can PWM the RGB pins to make any color you like. "

 

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Anyone using Aqua-Computer devices with USB:

Make sure your USB cables are all facing the correct way.

The USB hub is R__BB

AQ is R__BB
PA3 is BB__R
RGB Controller is: BB__R
Flow is: BB__R
Pump is: BB__R

[Revan654]

 

All tubing is complete.

 

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My Dual Drains

 

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Now time to figure out what the best way to build my Raid-0 setup (in Bios or in Windows).

[Bananasplit_00]

2 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

 

 

All tubing is complete.

 

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My Dual Drains

 

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Now time to figure out what the best way to build my Raid-0 setup (in Bios or in Windows).

id say BIOS personaly. idk if the RAID stays when you reinstall windows

[Revan654]

- USB 2.0 headers are PIA, they keep falling out from the device(Molex or the OEM version). I might just add another wire to my aquabus cables to create 4-pin version & I could do away with USB completely(Except for AQ6XT cable).

- For those asking. The C-Grid III is series that should be used when creating USB cables. You can use SL series as well, but you will be paying extra money for extra current which you will never use. C-Grid III is series that most motherboard makers use.

 

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I removed the curved glass & went with pure straight tubing run. The old run from Radiator to reservoir felt a bit to loose for my liking. This run feels allot more tight. The flow meter is what causing a bit of the loose feel.

 

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Also redoing some of my cabling, It was previously way to bulky for my liking. I just wish I could find some cable clips that I could screw to the surface. The glue/Velcro ones looks like there going to fall off at times.

[Revan654]

 

My Custom Made RGB Cable for farbwerk.

 

- The male end is double heatshrinked. 1st layer is adhesive heatshrink, then 2nd layer covers that heatshrink and holds the sleeving in place.

 

 

[Revan654]

 

MDPC-X new Sleeving size. It will fit over all the wiring they currently sell, It expands over 5mm. However There only introducing one Color per day until December. Which will be enough time to show off every color MDPC-X makes.

[Bananasplit_00]

6 hours ago, Revan654 said:

MDPC-X new Sleeving size. It will fit over all the wiring they currently sell, It expands over 5mm. However There only introducing one Color per day until December. Which will be enough time to show off every color MDPC-X makes.

well thats a thing to add to my christmas wishlist  that yellow looks nice, fits my coolant perfectly

[KoeppColto024470]

I know this might be outdated or something but I figured I could make a recommendation for the future. The 1080ti doesn't draw as much power and runs faster. Also to save money get the 960 EVO the only difference between the two is the warranty the read and write speeds are the same if not close plus its $100 cheaper for the Evo

[Bananasplit_00]

49 minutes ago, KoeppColto024470 said:

I know this might be outdated or something but I figured I could make a recommendation for the future. The 1080ti doesn't draw as much power and runs faster. Also to save money get the 960 EVO the only difference between the two is the warranty the read and write speeds are the same if not close plus its $100 cheaper for the Evo

everything here is already bought, everything in the build still performs really well. i dont think OP will change anything and they probably know all this already

[Revan654]

6 hours ago, KoeppColto024470 said:

I know this might be outdated or something but I figured I could make a recommendation for the future. The 1080ti doesn't draw as much power and runs faster. Also to save money get the 960 EVO the only difference between the two is the warranty the read and write speeds are the same if not close plus its $100 cheaper for the Evo

 

- First Everything has been ordered & installed.

- Why would I down grade from a Titan X to a 1080Ti? TitanXP is the superior GPU and is the faster GPU. You are aware the GPU is being used for video encoding and not gaming.

- Power Draw is not a concern here since I have 1600W PSU.

- Pro is faster then 960 Evo. Pro Writing: 1647+ Evo Writing: 1100. You need to read up on the Pro since it has small little features that Evo lacks or Pro blow way past Evo on.

[Lathlaer]

2 hours ago, Revan654 said:

TitanXP is the superior GPU and is the faster GPU. You are aware the GPU is being used for video encoding and not gaming.

Probably in gaming as well in the hands of people who know what to actually do with them. As in, throw away that blower style cooler, put waterblocks and OC the shit out of it ;-)

[done12many2]

3 hours ago, Revan654 said:

- Why would I down grade from a Titan X to a 1080Ti? TitanXP is the superior GPU and is the faster GPU. 

 

Actually, if you have the Titan X Pascal, it is slower than a 1080 Ti per most reviewers.  The newest Titan Xp is faster than the 1080 Ti, but not the original Titan X Pascal.  Obviously the Titan X Pascal and Titan Xp are not the same cards.  Big difference between the original Titan X Pascal and the newer Titan Xp.  

 

In fairness, the 1080 Ti and original Titan X Pascal are pretty much even.  I'm definitely not saying that you need to change anything, but to say either is superior is not accurate.  

 

 

 

 

 

3 hours ago, Revan654 said:

You are aware the GPU is being used for video encoding and not gaming.

 

As for performance in Adobe Premiere and other GPU accelerated applications, the trend of the 1080 Ti outperforming the original Titan X Pascal continues.  Grant it by a very small margin, but I don't think anyone who knew better would refer to a 1080 Ti as inferior based on the "Titan" name alone.

 

Once again, at best, they could only be referred to a basically the same.  Neither is a "down grade" unless you are talking about cost alone.  

 

https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Premiere-Pro-CC-2017-NVIDIA-Titan-Xp-12GB-Performance-930/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quote

- Pro is faster then 960 Evo. Pro Writing: 1647+ Evo Writing: 1100. You need to read up on the Pro since it has small little features that Evo lacks or Pro blow way past Evo on.

 

I think you are grossly exaggerating the difference between the 2 lines.   It is a very well known fact that you only buy the Pro series if you need the extra write endurance, not really speed.  The Pro is rated to sustain more writes over its lifetime and that's about it.  Other than that, top performance is back and forth between the two.  The Pro wins some and the Evo wins others.  Yes, overall, the Pro is very slightly better.  Definitely not by as much as you are implying.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Revan654]

1 hour ago, done12many2 said:

 

Actually, if you have the Titan X Pascal, it is slower than a 1080 Ti per most reviewers.  The newest Titan Xp is faster than the 1080 Ti, but not the original Titan X Pascal.  Obviously the Titan X Pascal and Titan Xp are not the same cards.  Big difference between the original Titan X Pascal and the newer Titan Xp.  

 

In fairness, the 1080 Ti and original Titan X Pascal are pretty much even.  I'm definitely not saying that you need to change anything, but to say either is superior is not accurate. 

 

 

 

 

- Pro is faster Evo. Most of your data will be inaccurate on my setup. Plus you need to take into account WaterCooling with none of your data takes into account.

- Your using Adobe as an example. Then you should know the GPU is only used for effects, The CPU does everything else. Where my video encoder uses the GPU to encode the entire video.

- I already have done test between Titan XP & 1080Ti. The Titan Xp wins every time.

[done12many2]

5 hours ago, Revan654 said:

- Pro is faster then 960 Evo. Pro Writing: 1647+ Evo Writing: 1100. You need to read up on the Pro since it has small little features that Evo lacks or Pro blow way past Evo on.

14 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

- Pro is faster Evo. Most of your data will be inaccurate on my setup. Plus you need to take into account WaterCooling with none of your data takes into account.

 

Please don't confuse what I said.  The Pro is indeed faster than the Evo.  Just not as fast as your trying to convince people it is. 

 

Water cooling does not make your NVMe M.2 magically faster.  It only prevents throttling and allows it to operate at its specified performance.  

 

BTW, the water cooling that you're implying improves your 960 Pro in some way, would also improve a 960 Evo.  Moot point.  

 

5 hours ago, Revan654 said:

- Why would I down grade from a Titan X to a 1080Ti? TitanXP is the superior GPU and is the faster GPU.

14 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

- Your using Adobe as an example. Then you should know the GPU is only used for effects, The CPU does everything else. Where my video encoder uses the GPU to encode the entire video.

 

You've found a metric that nobody can validate, but yourself.  With that said, calling your Titax X (Pascal) superior to a 1080 Ti is once again a gross exaggeration.  That gap between the newer Titan Xp and the older Titan X (Pascal) that you have is dramatically larger than the gap between the 1080 Ti and the older Titan X (Pascal) that you have.  

 

Which video encoder are you using? 

 

As far as the rest of the world is concerned, below is the basic breakdown.

 

Gaming:

Titan Xp  >  1080 Ti  >  Titan X (Pascal)

 

Adobe Rendering:

Titan Xp  >  1080 Ti  >  Titan X (Pascal)

 

Overall performance based on reviewer testing:

Titan Xp  >  1080 Ti  >  Titan X (Pascal)

 

Sure, your Titan X (Pascal) may be faster in the one video encoding application that you use, but that in no way makes it "superior".  

 

14 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

- I already have done test between Titan XP & 1080Ti. The Titan Xp wins every time.

 

You keep conveniently messing up the proper use of the "X", "P", and little "p".  

 

You have a Titan X (Pascal) otherwise known as a Titan XP.  The Titan Xp that you ended your sentence with by saying "The Titan Xp wins every time." is NOT the card that you have.  The Titan Xp (the one you DON'T have) is significantly faster than your Titan X (Pascal) and the 1080 Ti, which are both about the same.  It's really that simple.

 

The plot thickens.  Nvidia has announced the Titan X Collector's Edition.  

[Revan654]

2 hours ago, done12many2 said:

Snip

SMH, I'm done argue these points. I could less what someone else got. My own test proves my statements. I'm moving one from this since this will keep going back and forth.

 

[Revan654]

Bought some Flexible UV Lighting with Black-light enabled, These will boost & Increase the UV Effect that my other UV LED Sticks already have.

 

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a Quick look at Sleeving job, I had to cut the gel away since these are waterproof. It requires allot more work then you think before you can actually start to solder due to all the gel that remains sticking to contact plates.

 

My Guide to soldering WaterProof LED's & removal of the Gel:

 

- Use a X-Acto Knife to cut into the gel (A little bit above the contact plates)

- Use your fingers to  remove the gel (Don't use the knife near the contact plates)

- Using something softer or if your careful the other side of the X-Acto knife to remove as much gel as you can from the contact plates without damaging them).

- With a Soldering Iron (No need to apply any kind of solder to the iron yet, just make sure it's clean). slowly & softly press it on the gold contacts to remove rest of the gel that can't be remove by other means. After each contact clean the iron so the gel does not remain on the iron.

- lastly use some Isopropyl alcohol to clean up the contacts.

- Now you can apply solder to each contact & solder wiring to the LED's

 

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^No UV Effect

 

 

^UV Effect, Not sure how strong the UV effect is in these coolant bottles. Since I bought these long time ago but they were never used.

 

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Waiting for my last order from mouser to finish everything up and put final touches on cabling. I'm kind of stuck right now since I can't do anything without the parts from mouser.

[Revan654]

Question:

 

What is the best method to recolor a connector? The connectors I have only come in Natural and red, You can not buy black version of the connector. Spray Paint looks horrible, I was thinking of using plasti dip to see if results would be any better. Never used Plasti item before I have no idea what to expect from it. Anyone else have better options with re-coloring Nylon?

[Revan654]

 

a quick look at different "Dupont" terminals

 

From top to bottom:

 

Molex SL -> Molex C-Grid III -> Harwin M20

 

Oddly Harwin terminals have the best hold, if your installing it on anything that has vibrations, Harwin is the best choice. It's also the cheapest.

[Revan654]

- This is why it's better to buy reels of terminals over bag versions. bag: 3.00 dollars for 10 terminals or Reel: 5.00 dollars for 100. Of course Mouser will cut the terminal off the reel for you, Only time you might want to go with loose terminal is with fan terminals. Since fan terminals have to cut from the reel. If you do not have small cutting device it's better to get mouser to do it for you or you might screw up the alignment of the terminal.

 

- Just got word my Capture Card will be adding HDR10 soon via Firmware Update. No Longer need to disable HDR before recording.

- I saw Elgato just released info about there upcoming 4K Capture Card. The most bare bone Capture Card I seen & they want 400 dollars for it. Seriously Elgato your products may be decent but put some effort into it, Specially if you want someone to dish out 400 dollars for it. After the mess with there firmware/software I doubt I will ever touch any of there capture devices again. Not to mention any time there a small update to Windows it screws everything up with Elgato drivers. Elgato really needs to switch to common drivers and add support for DirectShow.

 

Whats Missing From Elgato So Far:

- HDMI 2.0a (Which completely removes any hope for future firmware update for HDR capture or streaming). HDR must be disabled before you can stream or capture. HDR was introduced in HDMI 2.0a.
- No H.264 hardware encoding from the card (Which HD60Pro has currently), Everything is software or GPU based. According to the Specs you need atlease Skylake to use the card, Not sure why since X99 is more then capable of handling 4K).
- Additional Software is required for 4K capture. The main software can not be used for 4K capture, it will only go up 1080p.
- Even more software is needed if you want to stream in 4K, Elgato does not even support any kind of 4K streaming from any of there software. 3rd party software is required(I assume OBS).

 

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New FireFox is out with new CSS engine. Hopefully we will see the new render engine soon, since it's not included with the update. Only down side is I lost access to my one addon (FireSSH). The addon is not being ported over since the developer is having a hissy fit about the changes that FireFox is making. It looks like I'm going to be forced to use a SSH app, the SSH addon was such a time saver and very easy to acess. I guess back to putty unless I find something better in the mean time.

 

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- My HDMI Splitter with custom Firmware (Thankyou to those modders) because F* HDCP. There from to stop pirates and Piracy but it just seems legit users are the ones getting punished here with all the stupid encryption.

 

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Looks like I'll be going with Dell UltraSharp 27 4K HDR Monitor: UP2718Q monitor. It so far the monitor I like, since all those "Gaming" HDR Monitors have been delayed until next Fall. With or without HDR it still the only 4K monitor I have liked. Unless Someone has other suggestions.

 

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I need to make a small correction about Dupont terminals from Molex & few other things.

 

- SL series is the low current version (I previous stated it was High Current). It was a mistake, It was bad info posted on one sites I use(It's only about 50 to 100V difference).
- C-Grid III is High current but is cheaper.
- SL is for lower current but is few dollars more for a reel of 100. However SL series has more options including locking connectors and secondary terminals.

- Harwin is your basic OEM terminals. There fine for your average person but nothing really special about them. If you want the best Molex is still the best choice. Since your getting best terminals made.
- SL Secondary terminals - These terminals are suppose lock better to the pins since there designed for high vibrations applications. There also a bit cheaper then the main SL terminals. I still prefer the main SL terminals.

 

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- Re-Did some of my lighting connections, My Always on lighting is now directly feed into my PSU via PCiE slot. JST (22AWG) -> Molex (2-pin) ->16AWG -> PCiE Slot

- I still need one more RGB Stick for my setup.
- Got a few more UV 5mm LED's, The new ones are true UVA with high Brightness.
- Ordered two different paints to see how well they looks on Plastic. Will be ordering some dyes in the coming days as well.

 

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First Revision of Case-Labs Case: SM8
Link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1642144/caselabs-announces-the-magnum-sma8-a-revision-sma8-a
- Hopefully we will see some of the accessories and tempered glass head to other cases liker THW10.

[Revan654]

 

A Quick Look at "Molex" Gold Plated Terminals TE vs OEM. Top: TE Bottom: OEM

 

Most confuse these terminals as "Molex" Terminals. Molex is a company who first made these terminals in the 1950's. They were then revamped by a company named AMP which later became TE. The Real name of these are Standard .093" Pin and Socket (Molex) or Mate-N-Lok (TE). Just depends on what company specs are used. 90% of the time companies will use Mate-N-Lok series over Standard .093".

[Revan654]

Corsair ML Pro Fans now available in RGB.

- These fans are not the same as the Normal ML Pro's.

- The RGB versions produces less Static Pressure & CFM(Max RPM is 1200).

-  RGB fans will only reach 1200 rpm's on 140 version, Which also means the DBA will lower too.