[Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X | Borosilicate Glass Tubing

[Revan654]

 

These are my Quad Sata Cables, If you use this method be careful when cutting into the PVC, since you can cut the strands very easily.

 

The last major Cables for the PSU being created now. I created two sets, Terminal version & pushdown version. I'll show off the pushdown version at a later date since I'm waiting on some unique heatshrink to complete those cables.

 

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I still need to mod the bases before they can be used.

 

[Revan654]

11 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

plastecizer isnt as much of a problem anymore, thats what i found when i did the reserach for Nothern Bee. Mayhems UltraClear which is what i have, didnt give off anything after extensive tests and nor did Primoflex Advanced LRT, and if they did it wasent anything noticable. one a year is a bit exessive for swapping out the tubeing unless you know you have ones that do leach plastecizer

 

It still happens due to the process of making PVC tubing. I have tubing from a very good company it was still leeching into the water. Tubing is known to discolor overtime, Plus you need to factor in coolants if you use them . They can discolor the tubing.

 

This is what happened after a year of usage of using just Soft tubing without replacing anything.

 

 

Only Glass will not discolor over time. Even PMMA & PETG given enough time will turn yellow over time.

[Bananasplit_00]

Just now, Revan654 said:

 

It still happens due to the process of making PVC tubing. I have tubing from a very good company it was still leeching into the water. Tubing is known to discolor overtime, Plus you need to factor in coolants if you use them . They can discolor the tubing.

 

This is what happened after a year of usage of using just Soft tubing without replacing anything.

 

Only Glass will not discolor over time. Even PMMA & PETG given enough time will turn yellow over time.

discoloring both of the ones i mentioned did, but there was no leeching of plastecizer that was noted. from what i can find, atleast Mayhems UltraClear and Primiflex Advanced LRT wouldent need to be swapped once a year, il check back with you in a year or something when Northern Bee has run more time, but i find that to be to often from what i have reserached. Mayhems Pastel and Mayhems UltraClear is acording to Mayhems a perfect fit atleast

[Trik'Stari]

4 hours ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

plastecizer isnt as much of a problem anymore, thats what i found when i did the reserach for Nothern Bee. Mayhems UltraClear which is what i have, didnt give off anything after extensive tests and nor did Primoflex Advanced LRT, and if they did it wasent anything noticable. one a year is a bit exessive for swapping out the tubeing unless you know you have ones that do leach plastecizer

I actually am using the Primoflex LRT.

 

I'm just happy to no longer be staring at my friggin hideous hard tubing bends.

[Revan654]

18 hours ago, Trik'Stari said:

I actually am using the Primoflex LRT.

 

I'm just happy to no longer be staring at my friggin hideous hard tubing bends.

It may take some practice but bending is very simple once you get it.

 

Bending it not hard, it's just when you start to have multiple bends in one tube run it can get a bit complex. You just need to think ahead and figure out how your going to do it. It's best to draw everything out by hand on paper or if you have 3D software use a PC.

 

This was my first try at bending:

 

 

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If your not good at bending, AlphaCool has made it easy for you:

 

Pre-Made 90 Degree + straight run with PMMA (Acrylic, Which I prefer over PETG).

 

Link: https://modmymods.com/alphacool-hardtube-16-12mm-90-plexi-pmma-20-40cm-18568.html

Link 2: https://modmymods.com/alphacool-hardtube-16-12mm-90-plexi-pmma-10-30cm-18567.html

 

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If you want to try to bend again here it what I used:

 

Bending Tool: https://modmymods.com/alphacool-acrylic-double-bending-tool-12-14mm-and-16mm-black-29124.html

 

Don't forget your Silicon cord:

 

12mm: https://modmymods.com/barrow-12mm-silicon-bending-cord-for-12mm-id-hardtube-1m-length-12mm.html

14mm: https://modmymods.com/barrow-14mm-silicon-bending-cord-for-14mm-id-hardtube-1m-length-14mm.html

[Shiv78]

1 minute ago, Revan654 said:

If your not good at bending, AlphaCool has made it easy for you:

 

or you can go full balls-to-the-ceiling and use only straight runs and a fuckton of fittings

[Revan654]

44 minutes ago, Shiv78 said:

or you can go full balls-to-the-ceiling and use only straight runs and a fuckton of fittings

 

If you go this road I suggest buying Barrow fittings & import them from China (nearly same quality as Bitspower but Cheaper). You can saves hundreds of dollars this way.

 

I just don't like the look of all those fittings. I have done it in the past with one of my old builds:

 

[ShatteredPsycho]

Damn, been over a year since you first posted your build. Sure is taking a while

How much time you think it will take?

[Shiv78]

46 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

I just don't like the look of all those fittings. I have done it in the past with one of my old builds:

 

Nice... I think builds with contrasting fittings (chrome, matte white, or satin/matte color) look great

[Revan654]

6 hours ago, ShatteredPsycho said:

Damn, been over a year since you first posted your build. Sure is taking a while

How much time you think it will take?

 

 

Work did not start until earlier this year.  Allot of things has delayed progress (Like waiting a month for certain items to arrive before I can pick up where I left off).

 

 

[Revan654]

 

My Low Profile USB 3.0 Cable (Before Sleeving).

 

 

All My Sata Cables are officially finished. Sata Quad, Triple & Dual.

[Shiv78]

2 hours ago, Revan654 said:

My Low Profile USB 3.0 Cable (Before Sleeving).

 

you should sell those... stock case ones are horrible, one of them broke my mobo's 3.0 header (unbent the pins but the plastic socket is only 3/4 there)

[Revan654]

10 minutes ago, Shiv78 said:

you should sell those... stock case ones are horrible, one of them broke my mobo's 3.0 header (unbent the pins but the plastic socket is only 3/4 there)

 

There are a few companies who already sell the ones I made, However Mine are gold plated, There is gold Flash or tin.

[Lathlaer]

This build is awesome and so is the thread. You can find nice stuff and a lot of helpful info mentioned matter-of-factly. 

 

For instance - that glass cutter, did you buy it directly from Mountain Glass? I want one for myself but that thing is virtually impossible to get now. Could you maybe recommend something similar for a smooth break-cutting glass tubing? ;-)

[Revan654]

13 hours ago, Lathlaer said:

This build is awesome and so is the thread. You can find nice stuff and a lot of helpful info mentioned matter-of-factly. 

 

For instance - that glass cutter, did you buy it directly from Mountain Glass? I want one for myself but that thing is virtually impossible to get now. Could you maybe recommend something similar for a smooth break-cutting glass tubing? ;-)

 

I have only used three tools for glass cutting so far. The Snap Method only Small Jaw has worked for me. You might be able to use those glass bottle cutters (I never tried them). I was going to try them but found the Small Jaw cutter first.

 

I have not seen any tools like the one I bought(It might be worth look at Amazon & glass Shops), Best bet is to E-mail them & see when there getting more in-Stock.

 

My advise would be use Dremel for now & create some sort of Jig to cut straight(I been using my table saw holder with Dremel when cutting with the device).

 

There allot of examples of Jigs on youtube & Sigularity Computers has has shown theirs. You don't need something that fancy. Something simple will get the job done.

 

Link: https://www.singularitycomputers.com/glass-tube-cutting/

 

Another option (I have not tested this, I was going to try. In the end I just went with Dremel since one of my Family members gave me there Dremel).

 

Adding a Diamond Saw Blade to Work Bench Saw. It should even work with Mini Saws. With Dremel you should not go over 2,000 rpm's. So Mini-Saw should give you enough RPM's to cut glass tubing. Mini-Saw also works great when cutting PETG & Acrylic.

 

Link: https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html

 

They sell 2" Blades on Amazon.com, it may be a bit pricey due to the small size. I think it's around 30 dollars. Yes, the blade is more expensive then the entire mini-Saw.

 

Whatever you do not buy these, They are horrible & nearly impossible to cut straight or even get the glass tubing in it. I still Don't know how Mayhem managed to cut straight with this tool(There is a video on youtube if your interested).

 

 

 

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If your willing to create a mod. You might be able to merged the following items together. I'm not 100% sure on the sizes of the wheels.

 

Link: http://www.mountainglass.com/Replacement-JAWS-Cutting-Wheel.html#.WdO-dNgpCbg

Link: https://modmymods.com/alphacool-hardtube-metal-tubing-cutter-3-25mm-29135.html

 

I'm surprised AlphaCool hasn't released a tool for Glass cutting.

[Revan654]

I was wondering if anyone can help. Going to swap the front buttons to something else. I'm not 100% sure on switch function. There to many types I just not 100% on what to grab. I'm thinking it's Mom-off.

 

Switch Type Function List:

1. On-Mom, Off-Mom
2. On-Off, Off-On
3. Mon On

4. Mon Off

 

Mom = Momentary

 

Link: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/pushbutton-switches/199?FV=fffc008d%2Cffe000c7&mnonly=0&ColumnSort=-1000011&page=1&stock=0&pbfree=0&rohs=0&cad=0&datasheet=0&nstock=0&photo=0&nonrohs=0&newproducts=0&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

[Bananasplit_00]

14 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

I was wondering if anyone can help. Going to swap the front buttons to something else. I'm not 100% sure on switch function. There to many types I just not 100% on what to grab. I'm thinking it's Mom-off.

 

Switch Type Function List:

1. On-Mom, Off-Mom
2. On-Off, Off-On
3. Mon On

4. Mon Off

 

Mom = Momentary

 

Link: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/pushbutton-switches/199?FV=fffc008d%2Cffe000c7&mnonly=0&ColumnSort=-1000011&page=1&stock=0&pbfree=0&rohs=0&cad=0&datasheet=0&nstock=0&photo=0&nonrohs=0&newproducts=0&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

for the power on and reset you want it to short when its pressed down, that would me mom-on id say, because its momentarely on, unless nameing of this is stupid too.

[Revan654]

56 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

for the power on and reset you want it to short when its pressed down, that would me mom-on id say, because its momentarely on, unless nameing of this is stupid too.

 

I'm thinking it's Mom-On | Mom-Off. Since that only results that kicks back any real results in LED. I also think this way allows you to config it in Mom-on or Mom-off.

[Revan654]

14 AWG

 

Link: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6717-BK005/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tEebH9%2bQVuXxmSboxiyHW0A%3d

 

16 AWG

 

Link: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Wire/6716-BK005/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtW9UaYX5J1tEebH9%2bQVuXx2I4rziwzhFg%3d

 

22 AWG

 

Link: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=6713_BK005virtualkey60200000virtualkey602-6713-100-02

 

For those who don't know mPPE is the same type of wiring used in cars to make it lighter but also have Better dielectric strength. It's better then PVC, plus it doesn't burn when soldering like PVC does. The wiring is more money but you get some new features with it. It also has a smaller OD compared to PVC at the same AWG. You can fit 16 AWG inside the molex Push Sata Connectors without any issues compared to 16 AWG when you will have issues getting it inside the teeth.

 

Your average person there no reason to use 14 or 16 AWG mPPE ( I'm still using PVC on most part).

 

btw, I been using 22 AWG mPPE. Other then Ribbon wire it's my favorite 22 AWG wiring. You can clearly see the difference in quality. From AlphaWire vs basic wiring you buy at sleeving shops or import from China.

 

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When there a choice between Reel vs Loose pieces. Go with Reel, it can save you allot of money(It starts to add up over time). 100 Loose pieces for fan terminals is 20 dollars (Gold Plated, .768 version) where Reel is only 9 dollars for 100.

 

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Hardware:

 

PA-09: Fans & Dupont

PAD-01: PicoBlade (PA-09 does not fully crimp the smaller terminals)

MDPC-X CTX 3 (Best crimper for Power Supply cables)

Dremel 2000 (Best All in one tools for heat, Cutting & soldering)

Molex Wire Strippers (Only wire cutter I have found that will drop down to tiny cuts & will cut wiring with almost any OD)

 

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Switches Power & Reset

 

Face Size: 19mm (16mm Body) & 22mm (19mm Body)

 

Circuit: DPST (1-NO, 1-NC)

Type: Vandal Resistant

Switch Function: Mom-On | Mom-Off (You will be using Mom-Off when wiring). Choices for Mom-off only switches is very limited.

LED: Sell every color from Blue to Red to even RGB. Some of the switches are a bit harder to get ahold off. I could not find 19mm in RGB or 22mm in Basic Blue.

 

These are a bit more money then what you pay at a computer store. However the quality is also much higher, Don't feel like the pins are going to snap the second your try to remove the terminal. Both switches will accept Quick Disconnect (The same size, cheaper versions have weird sizes) & can be soldered directly to the the switch.

 

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For those interested in making there own DarkSide Cables Here are parts needed. They do not make Black housing anymore for DarkSide Connect. You need to buy those direct from DarkSide or Amazon/Ebay sell them as well.

 

RGB End A:

 

Link: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SHF-001T-0.8BS/455-1121-1-ND/527350

 

RGB End B or DarkSide Connect End B (For Basic Colors & 3/5mm):

 

Link: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SYM-001T-P0.6(N)/455-1909-1-ND/1465028

 

DarkSide Connect End A:

 

Link: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SYF-001T-P0.6(LF)(SN)/455-2652-1-ND/2796952

 

DarkSide Connect Housing End A:

 

Link: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SYP-02TV-1/455-2651-ND/2796951

 

DarkSide Connect Housing End B:

 

Link: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SYR-02TV/455-2655-ND/2385865

 

DarkSide RGB End B:

 

Link: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=SMR-04V-B

 

DarkSide RGB End A:

 

Link: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=SMP-04V-BC

 

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Aqua-Computer has finally started to make Black plates that are built into the AQ.

[Revan654]

 

Pico Cables are finally done, The most difficult of all terminals I have crimp due to the size of each terminal. You can barley hold these terminal in your fingers. I also found that PA-09 was not fully crimping the terminals. PA-09 would not lock the strands down to the terminals once crimped. I used PAD-01 which did a much better job at crimping.

 

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USB 3.0 Low Profile Cable fully Sleeved. I might get different heatshrink, I really don't like the type I'm using here, It's very thick a has a bit of weight to it compared to MDPC-X or MFC. MDPC-X nor MFC make heatshrink in the 18mm range. I could do a dual Sleeve type sleeving as well if I don't find any good heatshrink.

 

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A look at difference between OEM "Molex" vs Branded "Molex" terminals. As you can see they have very different styles. Not to mention Branded version is Truly Gold plated & much easier to remove from the housing. Branded is a bit more money, but worth the extra money. They also sell tin version which is much cheaper. These are made by T.E. since Molex has stopped making these awhile back.

 

Molex does have new versions however they will not work due to the different shaped housing & pitch is a bit lower (5.03 I believe compared to 5.08).

[Revan654]

- Small issue, going to delay certain aspects of the build. My OLED screens for Vision blocks are both completely cracked. There both going to have to be RMA to Aqua-Computer.

[Bananasplit_00]

7 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

- Small issue, going to delay certain aspects of the build. My OLED screens for Vision blocks are both completely cracked. There both going to have to be RMA to Aqua-Computer.

lets see if thats another 6 months or whatever it took for them to get in stock

[Revan654]

1 minute ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

lets see if thats another 6 months or whatever it took for them to get in stock

 

Most of the Vision stock is normal now.

 

This is all I need:

 

Link: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3609

[Shiv78]

1 hour ago, Revan654 said:

Small issue, going to delay certain aspects of the build

rip

by the time this build is done the CPU will be discontinued

[Revan654]

20 hours ago, Shiv78 said:

rip

by the time this build is done the CPU will be discontinued

 

I doubt it, I'm basically at the end now. Allot of things are just waiting for shipments. Needed another tube of glass & some more wire. Creating Cables is a very long process (Specially with all the cables I have), Which I should have started before I even bought any motherboard or CPU.

 

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X99 is still one fastest chipsets available, Even with X299 out. I just don't trust AMD, I will never be using there CPU's again.