[Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X | Borosilicate Glass Tubing

[potoooooooo]

On 8/6/2017 at 4:44 PM, Revan654 said:

I have NEVER seen pushdowns sleeved that well before.

 

Kudos, i'm incredibly impressed. Can't wait to see the final build.

[Revan654]

16 hours ago, potoooooooo said:

I have NEVER seen pushdowns sleeved that well before.

 

Kudos, i'm incredibly impressed. Can't wait to see the final build.

Thanks.

 

It's decent in my opinion(I'm OCD on how my cables look). I just wish there was a way to get the Sleeving inside the connector. Some of the cheaper 3rd part connectors I seen some get it inside, so far I have yet to see anyone get MDPC-X or Sleeving around that OD inside the pushdown Connectors.

[Revan654]

 

They said it wasn't possible to double crimp 16 AWG with Molex Terminals. Proof it can be done (I might some small solder just to make sure it holds). I haven't decided what type of Sata cables I want to use yet.

 

 

Here are the long wing versions of Sata terminals (Not made by Molex). Molex has a much shorter wing span & are designed for 18 AWG only. As you can see above I got 16 AWG onto the terminal (The 2mm version wiring, 2.4 can't be done due to the larger OD. You can do a single crimper for the 2.4 wiring).

 

 

Bit of a mess right now due to all the cables. Out of the pump goes fitting -> Temperature fitting (Vision version) -> Radiator (Dual temperature probes)

 

 

Inspired LED's (suppose to be some best & Brightest). Designed for over 100,000 hours. These LED's can get very expensive, No RGB due to fact that RGB was to wide (14mm). So I went with Solid Blue in Ultra Bright form (which also had more LED's per cut strip then most others, they use LED 3528 instead of the 5050). I could get three 5050 or six 3528. The blue LED's will also allow me just to create simple LED to Fan connector to power these. The LED's also supports wiring down to 18 AWG if you want to go with insane type of wiring. Blue is also the only color the comes in Ultra Bright, all the other colors only support NB & SB.

 

It also has low heat discharge, No UV or IR. Also with all top LED makers not a single one makes any type of UV type of lighting.

 

 

These are RGB but made by AquaComputer, as you can see it's much thicker then just normal single color due to the fact it requires more wires to be soldered.

 

 

Inspired UB BlueLED vs AquaComputer RGB

 

 

[Revan654]

 

Some work I did last night, allot of U, Y & W cables. These are other version for my Sata & Molex cables. However You will not see these sleeved for a bit since I ran out of sleeving & waiting on MDPC-X for my order (another 300 ft of sleeving).

 

[Revan654]

 

Just a small look at my Sata cables without any Sleeving. Still no sleeving to use yet.

 

I'm currently using Solid Gold Molex terminals (There designed for 18 AWG, I did mange to crimp 16 AWG wiring (2.4 OD) to the terminals.

[Revan654]

 

These are my Dupont extension Cables for my temperature probes, Bitspower cables are not long enough to reach from radiator ports to the AQ6XT.

 

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I just took some of the default AquaComputer cables & created my own Vision cables. Pico terminals are a PIA to work with due to there sized. I'm pretty sure I lost about 10 of the terminals since they kept falling on the floor (I can't find them due to there size again).

 

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My Sata Cables Fully Sleeved (I Re-did the heatshrink as well). These are new Sata cables I bought. Also there Molex Branded Sata Cables. It's a bit harder to sleeve these due to limit space available for the heatshrink to grab on to the connectors.

 

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Not the best Photo since It's under a table & it's hard to get a photo from below. This is my Drain port location with the fittings installed.

 

 

I'll be using quick-Disconnect instead of the normal valve fittings due to height between the case & where the surface meets.

 

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Finally, at look at my completed ATX Cable with lease amount of twist possible and cable combs installed (Fiber Carbon). Most of those twist will be hidden anyways.

 

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This part can be ignored, This is reference for me when I put the audio cable back together.

[Xychic]

Been watching this build for ages now, it looks amazing and I love every update! Keep up the phenomenal work! 

[iiNNeX]

Jesus christ... *grabs popcorn*

[Shiv78]

8 minutes ago, iiNNeX said:

*grabs popcorn*

***grabs lotion***

[Urishima]

1 hour ago, Shiv78 said:

***grabs lotion***

*Sigh*

 

Well, let's get this over with.

 

[Revan654]

 

MDPC-X now has wiring to go with there sleeving. It is Strange there using uncommon AWG. There using 23 AWG for Fans/Dupont instead of the normal 22 AWG.

[Revan654]

 

Bought this tool as well for snap glass method, Hopefully it will speed things up a bit.

 

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Remaining Items that I need to buy

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- Pico Terminals + Connectors (Vision Cables)

- SL Connectors (USB 2.0)

- Spox Terminals (Extending any Fans Needed)

- Milli-Grid + Connectors (USB 3.0)

- Sata Terminals (Don't have enough to cover the rest of my cables), They only sell version I use in reels of 100

- Mini Fit Jr. 6CKT for PCie for Gen 3 (They do not have 8-pin PCie for Gen 3 yet for some odd reason)

- Case-Labs Wheels (In case my drain interferes with fans or surface)

- Case-Labs Res Mount plating (Double) for a Mod idea I have.

 

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Cable Runs (Anything that only use 12V & GND can use VGA Slots instead of just Sata / Molex slot on the PSU). I might just plug the device that only use 12V to pcie so I don't have to daisy chain a bunch of wires together & free up some Sata ports so I don't have to create Quad cables.

 

DO NOT TRY THIS unless you know exactly what your doing & know voltage of your devices & you know the pin layout of your PSU. Adding to much voltage will destroy hardware.

 

Molex 1: D5 Pump One

Pin 1: 12V

Pin 2: GND

Pin 3: Not Used

Pin 4: Not Used

 

Molex 2: D5 Pump Two

Pin 1: 12V

Pin 2: GND

Pin 3: Not Used

Pin 4: Not Used

 

Molex 3: Aqua-Computer PowerAdjust 3

Pin 1: 12V

Pin 2: GND

Pin 3: GND

Pin 4: Not Used

 

Molex 4: Aqua-Computer PowerAdjust 3

Pin 1: 12V

Pin 2: GND

Pin 3: GND

Pin 4: Not Used

 

Molex 5: Aqua-Computer PowerAdjust 3

Pin 1: 12V

Pin 2: GND

Pin 3: GND

Pin 4: Not Used

 

Molex 6: Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue Edition

Pin 1: 12V

Pin 2: GND :

Pin 3: GND

Pin 4: 5V

 

Molex 7: Aqua-Computer RGB Controller (If Needed)

Pin 1: 12V

Pin 2: GND

Pin 3: GND

Pin 4: 5V

 

Molex 8: MotherBoard

Pin 1: 12V

Pin 2: GND

Pin 3: GND

Pin 4: 5V

 

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I'm most likely going to ditch push down Sata/Molex Cables. I just don't like how they look with sleeving (You can't properly sleeve these without allot of heatshrink). Getting 16AWG with 2.5 OD inside those connectors is a pain (Push it down with only bare wires tends to cut the strands).

 

[Revan654]

 

Kudos to MDPC-X, look at all the Free heatshrink they sent me (I didn't order any, I was having issues with there heatshrink cracking open in the last order).

 

 

Fillport has been installed. this will run into my front Reservoir.

 

 

a Test piece of glass with my new Glass cutter

 

 

Mounting all the wires to the case with connecting everything.

 

 

First set of Molex Cable is finished

[Revan654]

Dam, Just when I thought I was done order. My supply of "Molex" terminals are very low. Since Molex doesn't make them anymore, Not sure if I want to use TE or JMT. JMT is OEM and cheaper. It will take much longer to get here since there shipped from overseas.

 

Not just how long TE wing span is, The dataSheet TE creates are horrible when you compared them to Companies like Molex where are extremely detailed.

[Revan654]

 

Not even going bother with Soldering the crimps anymore, Since there is basically nothing to solder.

 

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I just noticed EVGA Custom Cables for Sata uses zero headshrink for there push down Sata cable. I wonder if the sleeving enters the housing or not. If it doesn't not sure how they make it from not moving. It is Paracord but still.

 

 

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This is going to be used to extend my USB 3.0 Cable (Hopefully Sleeve it as well). Since Sleeving the thick USB 3.0 cable looks ugly. Since the small Sleeving can not fit over the USB 3.0 connector.

[Revan654]

- With Some of the None PVC wiring. You can go all the way down to 14 AWG if you wanted to create ATX cable with that AWG. I was playing around with different wiring to see what I can and can not do.

 

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- EK is no longer shipping Asus Logo plates with there WaterBlocks (Guessing it's a copyright issue). Only first wave of orders got them. My replacment RVE10 MonoBlock only ships with EK plate. I still had my Asus plate from the first wave.

 

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Got some thermal paste inside the CPU, It doesn't look like it touching any of the pins, I doubt I'm going try to get it out & risk bending one of those pins.

 

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Thermal paste re-applied (I should just used a drop method instead of spreading it tip (company suggested spreading it). It's a pain to spread it out.

 

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Finally, My international has arrived in the US. It took forever to land due to all the bad weather.

 

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Motherboard reattached & glass cutting has started for the front.

[NoxiousOdor]

This is looking pretty cool so far! How well did that glass cutter work?

 

[Revan654]

21 hours ago, WhisperingKnickers said:

This is looking pretty cool so far! How well did that glass cutter work?

 

 

The new ones are great, very easy and snap with little effort. They make small & large ones. Both work with 16mm OD tubing.

 

I will add I always add a small degree extra to the tubing when cutting just in case(Extra few mm don't go over 5mm mark, nothing major like a inch). You can easily shave the extra bit off in a few seconds if you do not need it. This way if the glass has a tiny crack you can shave it off. If you do everything correctly you will not have any cracks.

 

Dremel cutting is a pain(Has been since day one). Dremel is still the only way to cut tiny pieces of glass, Since you cant get a proper grip for the small pieces to snap it. Since you have to keep it wet all through the cutting, plug you need some sort of jig to make sure your cutting straight.

 

Plus Dremel will always require safety gear, You can kind of get away with not wearing anything with jaw cutter (It does produce a tiny amount, not enough to hit your face or anywhere near it). Just keep it far enough away from your face & you do not inhale it you will be fine. Make sure the glass is wet before snapping the glass (Inside & Out).

 

If you know what your doing a Propane torch will also speed things up. It will cut out the need to shave the sides of the glass so the orings does not get torn apart. with a few seconds of the torch the glass will just slide inside the fitting. No grease will be needed.

 

Bitspower so far works the best. Barrow will also work the same. AlphaCool & ThermalTake (Normal Fittings) will give you issues (Based on others who tried to use those fittings). Only thing ThermalTake is worth using is there PowerSupply tester (Still not sure why there only ones who has 8-pin GPU plug) & maybe there RGB fittings if you bypass there controller box with a small mod.

 

You can also use AlphaCool Ring LED's for hardline lighting (Be careful AlphaCool uses some tiny wiring which can break off very easily). I would just buy the rings for there housing & use some higher grade wiring & LED's.

[Trik'Stari]

On 9/26/2017 at 1:14 PM, Revan654 said:

 

The new ones are great, very easy and snap with little effort. They make small & large ones. Both work with 16mm OD tubing.

 

I will add I always add a small degree extra to the tubing when cutting just in case(Extra few mm don't go over 5mm mark, nothing major like a inch). You can easily shave the extra bit off in a few seconds if you do not need it. This way if the glass has a tiny crack you can shave it off. If you do everything correctly you will not have any cracks.

 

Dremel cutting is a pain(Has been since day one). Dremel is still the only way to cut tiny pieces of glass, Since you cant get a proper grip for the small pieces to snap it. Since you have to keep it wet all through the cutting, plug you need some sort of jig to make sure your cutting straight.

 

Plus Dremel will always require safety gear, You can kind of get away with not wearing anything with jaw cutter (It does produce a tiny amount, not enough to hit your face or anywhere near it). Just keep it far enough away from your face & you do not inhale it you will be fine. Make sure the glass is wet before snapping the glass (Inside & Out).

 

If you know what your doing a Propane torch will also speed things up. It will cut out the need to shave the sides of the glass so the orings does not get torn apart. with a few seconds of the torch the glass will just slide inside the fitting. No grease will be needed.

 

Bitspower so far works the best. Barrow will also work the same. AlphaCool & ThermalTake (Normal Fittings) will give you issues (Based on others who tried to use those fittings). Only thing ThermalTake is worth using is there PowerSupply tester (Still not sure why there only ones who has 8-pin GPU plug) & maybe there RGB fittings if you bypass there controller box with a small mod.

 

You can also use AlphaCool Ring LED's for hardline lighting (Be careful AlphaCool uses some tiny wiring which can break off very easily). I would just buy the rings for there housing & use some higher grade wiring & LED's.

When I was looking at doing glass tubing I was looking at the Monsoon chain gun fittings.

 

They use a plastic locking ring adhered to the end of the tube with UV reactive adhesive, and the fitting "pulls" the tube into an O-ring resulting in a very secure fit. Only problem is running out of plastic locking rings because something was slightly too short or just a hair off, and you have to completely redo that section of tubing.

 

Tried doing it with PETG on my current build and well.... I need more experience with hardline. Ended up swapping out for soft tubing because what I did with the hard tubing just looked horrible.

 

Keep up the amazing work!

[Revan654]

7 hours ago, Trik'Stari said:

When I was looking at doing glass tubing I was looking at the Monsoon chain gun fittings.

 

They use a plastic locking ring adhered to the end of the tube with UV reactive adhesive, and the fitting "pulls" the tube into an O-ring resulting in a very secure fit. Only problem is running out of plastic locking rings because something was slightly too short or just a hair off, and you have to completely redo that section of tubing.

 

Tried doing it with PETG on my current build and well.... I need more experience with hardline. Ended up swapping out for soft tubing because what I did with the hard tubing just looked horrible.

 

Keep up the amazing work!

 

Those Caps don't work for metric tubing.

[Trik'Stari]

4 hours ago, Revan654 said:

 

Those Caps don't work for metric tubing.

Good to know.

 

They're okay for regular PETG, but Monsoon needs to wake up and sell bags of just the plastic caps. I needed several dozen and had to buy full conversion kits to get them.

[Revan654]

3 hours ago, Trik'Stari said:

Good to know.

 

They're okay for regular PETG, but Monsoon needs to wake up and sell bags of just the plastic caps. I needed several dozen and had to buy full conversion kits to get them.

 

They do sell them separately.

[Trik'Stari]

6 hours ago, Revan654 said:

 

They do sell them separately.

I didn't know that.

 

Meh. I'm happy with soft tubing for now.

[Revan654]

On 9/29/2017 at 4:59 AM, Trik'Stari said:

I didn't know that.

 

Meh. I'm happy with soft tubing for now.

 

Soft you have to worry about plasticizer & have to replace the tubing about once a year, Unless you use ZMT tubing.

 

[Bananasplit_00]

8 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

 

Soft you have to worry about plasticizer & have to replace the tubing about once a year, Unless you use ZMT tubing.

 

plastecizer isnt as much of a problem anymore, thats what i found when i did the reserach for Nothern Bee. Mayhems UltraClear which is what i have, didnt give off anything after extensive tests and nor did Primoflex Advanced LRT, and if they did it wasent anything noticable. one a year is a bit exessive for swapping out the tubeing unless you know you have ones that do leach plastecizer