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custom keyboard

GloriousGamer321
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i want to build a custom keyboard and i want it to be really quiet, i know the basics of keyboard parts, you need the PCB the case the switches the keycaps etc. now, my question is can you recommend the right parts to make a really quiet keyboard?

and also i want another keyboard with switches that thonc

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2 minutes ago, GloriousGamer321 said:

i want to build a custom keyboard and i want it to be really quiet, i know the basics of keyboard parts, you need the PCB the case the switches the keycaps etc. now, my question is can you recommend the right parts to make a really quiet keyboard?

and also i want another keyboard with switches that thonc

Budget?

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Look at this idiots post 🤣

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For thock do the following  listed in order of importance. 

#1 Lube your switches and stabilizers.

#2 Get a carbonfiber, FR4 or polycarb plate instead of any kind of metal one.  My preference is carbonfiber. FR4 is a bit to bouncy and reverby, and polycarb is just too soft and muted. 

#3 Experiment with foam or silicon sheets under the PCB. Try more or less and different kinds 

#4 Consider using a keycap profile like MT3, KAT or SA.  

#5 Look up "The Tape Mod"

 

For silence do this.

#1 Lube your switches and stabilizers.

#2 Foam the shit out of it. Case foam, plate foam, spacebar foam, stabilizer foam. All of it. 

#3 Polycarb plate.

#4 Some kind of silenced switch. 

#5 Lower profile caps. Such as Cherry, XDA, or DSA profiles. 

#6 Forget o-rings exist, they suck.

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-- Threads Merged --

"We're all in this together, might as well be friends" Tom, Toonami.

 

mini eLiXiVy: my open source 65% mechanical PCB, a build log, PCB anatomy and discussing open source licenses: https://linustechtips.com/topic/1366493-elixivy-a-65-mechanical-keyboard-build-log-pcb-anatomy-and-how-i-open-sourced-this-project/

 

mini_cardboard: a 4% keyboard build log and how keyboards workhttps://linustechtips.com/topic/1328547-mini_cardboard-a-4-keyboard-build-log-and-how-keyboards-work/

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Just now, Slottr said:

Not lubing?

it said it was pre lubed, if its not then i want to lube it

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Just now, GloriousGamer321 said:

it said it was pre lubed, if its not then i want to lube it

Guess that makes sense. 2.30 for yellows is expensive.

 

Keyboards are all personal preference, so as long as it looks good to you then you're all G.

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Hey there.

9 hours ago, GloriousGamer321 said:

https://keyboardpartpicker.com/build/PjZbZcLz0vcm

 

found this site, its just like pcpartpicker but for keyboards, is this a good keyboard? i have a budget of 200$

General Purchases

  • The GMMK Barebones already comes with a braided cable, a switch puller, and a keycap puller. I'd suggest not to purchase an aftermarket cable and switch puller, to save on expenses and shipping costs. The stock switch puller -- in my experience -- has been perfectly adequate.
  • A stem holder is a very redundant purchase. Tweezers are a perfectly serviceable alternative to a stem holder, should you have some already lying around at home.
  • If you plan on lubing your switches, I'd suggest adding a switch opener to your purchase list.

 

Keycaps

  • The keycaps listed are doubleshot ABS. Over time and with frequent contact, the surface of the keycaps will turn glossier ("ABS shine"). Keep this in mind if you plan on sticking with ABS keycaps.
  • A cheaper alternative is the EnjoyPBT Charcoal Keycap Set (also doubleshot ABS) from Divinkey. Reason I suggest getting this over the one from Kono Store is to minimize your shipping costs, seeing as you've selected Divinikey as your store for the Gateron Milky Yellow switches, and they offer free domestic shipping for orders over $99.

 

9 hours ago, GloriousGamer321 said:

is this a good keyboard?

I'd suggest describing your expectations for the keyboard, if you'd like the community to assess how well or how "good" the keyboard will measure up to those expectations.

 

I will say, the GMMK Barebones is competitively priced (i.e. low cost) for several reasons. Customizability is very limited, both in the physical sense (e.g. case, plates), and functional sense (e.g. re-programmability). It's fine for a starter board, however, to see whether you'd like to get into and spend money in the custom keyboard hobby.

正直に生きる、一度きりの人生だから

Keeb Weeb LinksCustom Mechanical Keyboards | #KeebWeebClub

'Chew Builds: Hoshī (PC) | Eighty #391 (Keeb) | R2-968 (Keeb) | MGK64 (Keeb)

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1 hour ago, Eschew said:

Hey there.

General Purchases

  • The GMMK Barebones already comes with a braided cable, a switch puller, and a keycap puller. I'd suggest not to purchase an aftermarket cable and switch puller, to save on expenses and shipping costs. The stock switch puller -- in my experience -- has been perfectly adequate.
  • A stem holder is a very redundant purchase. Tweezers are a perfectly serviceable alternative to a stem holder, should you have some already lying around at home.
  • If you plan on lubing your switches, I'd suggest adding a switch opener to your purchase list.

 

Keycaps

  • The keycaps listed are doubleshot ABS. Over time and with frequent contact, the surface of the keycaps will turn glossier ("ABS shine"). Keep this in mind if you plan on sticking with ABS keycaps.
  • A cheaper alternative is the EnjoyPBT Charcoal Keycap Set (also doubleshot ABS) from Divinkey. Reason I suggest getting this over the one from Kono Store is to minimize your shipping costs, seeing as you've selected Divinikey as your store for the Gateron Milky Yellow switches, and they offer free domestic shipping for orders over $99.

 

I'd suggest describing your expectations for the keyboard, if you'd like the community to assess how well or how "good" the keyboard will measure up to those expectations.

 

I will say, the GMMK Barebones is competitively priced (i.e. low cost) for several reasons. Customizability is very limited, both in the physical sense (e.g. case, plates), and functional sense (e.g. re-programmability). It's fine for a starter board, however, to see whether you'd like to get into and spend money in the custom keyboard hobby.

something else i want to ask, should i go with after market stabilizers, because I'm planing on clipping and lubing them, another question, it said they were pre lubed, do i have to lube again? 

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1 hour ago, Eschew said:

Hey there.

General Purchases

  • The GMMK Barebones already comes with a braided cable, a switch puller, and a keycap puller. I'd suggest not to purchase an aftermarket cable and switch puller, to save on expenses and shipping costs. The stock switch puller -- in my experience -- has been perfectly adequate.
  • A stem holder is a very redundant purchase. Tweezers are a perfectly serviceable alternative to a stem holder, should you have some already lying around at home.
  • If you plan on lubing your switches, I'd suggest adding a switch opener to your purchase list.

 

Keycaps

  • The keycaps listed are doubleshot ABS. Over time and with frequent contact, the surface of the keycaps will turn glossier ("ABS shine"). Keep this in mind if you plan on sticking with ABS keycaps.
  • A cheaper alternative is the EnjoyPBT Charcoal Keycap Set (also doubleshot ABS) from Divinkey. Reason I suggest getting this over the one from Kono Store is to minimize your shipping costs, seeing as you've selected Divinikey as your store for the Gateron Milky Yellow switches, and they offer free domestic shipping for orders over $99.

 

I'd suggest describing your expectations for the keyboard, if you'd like the community to assess how well or how "good" the keyboard will measure up to those expectations.

 

I will say, the GMMK Barebones is competitively priced (i.e. low cost) for several reasons. Customizability is very limited, both in the physical sense (e.g. case, plates), and functional sense (e.g. re-programmability). It's fine for a starter board, however, to see whether you'd like to get into and spend money in the custom keyboard hobby.

and also i updated my build https://keyboardpartpicker.com/build/su8etdAEr8MC

but it says it isn't compatible, but idk how to make it compatible (new to this custom keyboard stuff) can you tell me how to fix it?

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41 minutes ago, GloriousGamer321 said:

something else i want to ask, should i go with after market stabilizers, because I'm planing on clipping and lubing them, another question, it said they were pre lubed, do i have to lube again? 

The GMMK Barebones' stabilizers come "pre-lubed," but they've done a mediocre / hasty job with it and regardless, the stabilizers are rattly. Do note that they're plate-mounted, not PCB-mounted (again, limited customizability).

 

I'd suggest attempting to mod the stock stabilizers first, and testing whether you'd like the result, before spending money on aftermarket plate-mounted stabilizers.

 

23 minutes ago, GloriousGamer321 said:

and also i updated my build https://keyboardpartpicker.com/build/su8etdAEr8MC

but it says it isn't compatible, but idk how to make it compatible (new to this custom keyboard stuff) can you tell me how to fix it?

First, you should be aware that the Keyboard Part Picker is still a work in progress. Treat it more like a loose guide / tool than gospel.

If satisfying a compatibility checklist on an online tool is important to you, I'd suggest contacting the staff at Keyboard Part Picker with your concerns.

 

That being said, the compatibility notes helpfully describe any listed issues in detail:

Quote

Number of pins on switches must be compatible with the corresponding PCB.

In order to attach switches to a PCB, the pins of the switches must be compatible with the PCB. There are two standard pin types for switches, 3-pin and 5-pin. If your listed PCB or DIY Kit supports 5 pin switches, then either 3-pin or 5-pin switches should work. A 5-pin switch will NOT work on a PCB that only supports 3-pin switches.

The GMMK Barebones will only accommodate 3-pin switches. What the notes do not mention, is that 5-pin switches may be (irreversibly) converted to 3-pin, by snipping of the plastic pins to either side of the larger nub in the middle. Note -- do not snip off the metal pins. This will render your switches functionally useless.

 

Basically, you can still use Gateron Milky Yellows in a GMMK Barebones. Just need to mod the switches.

 

Quote

Number of keycaps and switches must be greater than or equal to number of switches your selected PCB is able to hold.

For each switch socket on your PCB, you will need switches and keycaps to fill in the gap. Verify that the quantity of switches and keycaps in your build will suffice to fit your keyboard.

The GMMK Barebones (Compact) only needs 61 switches / keys, and in terms of layout, it follows the ANSI convention and standard 6.25U bottom row.

  • Your list has 70 × Gateron Milky Yellows, which is sufficient for the board.
  • The EnjoyPBT Black & White Keycap Set is equipped with 153 keycaps (Image: Full Keycap Set Display). There are more than enough keycaps to outfit a compact layout, and the modifier keycaps included will accommodate an ANSI layout, standard bottom row.

You should have no issues. Again, the Keyboard Part Picker tool is a work in progress, and seems to err on the side of caution.

 

Quote

PCBs must have support for the corresponding stabilizers and large keycap sizes (i.e. spacebar and backspace).

Stabilizers are utilized to help larger keycaps bind without wobble to a switch. There are varying sizes in stabilizers and keycaps, and your selected stabilizer and larger keycaps must be compatible in size. Your PCB and plate must also support the size of stabilizer that you are using.

The GMMK Barebones comes equipped with 4 × 2U stabilizers and 1 × 6.25U stabilizer, which will accommodate the Backspace, Enter, Left Shift, and Right Shift modifiers and the 6.25U spacebar keycaps from the EnjoyPBT Black & White Keycap Set.

 

You should have no issues. Again, the Keyboard Part Picker tool is a work in progress, and seems to err on the side of caution.

正直に生きる、一度きりの人生だから

Keeb Weeb LinksCustom Mechanical Keyboards | #KeebWeebClub

'Chew Builds: Hoshī (PC) | Eighty #391 (Keeb) | R2-968 (Keeb) | MGK64 (Keeb)

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what are the best doubleshot black and white keycaps

budget: under 70, ideally under 50

and i have the gmmk pro 75% keyboard

and i have gateron yellow

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You won't be getting the best for under 70.

 

The search terms you should be using are BoW or WoB, which mean Black on White and White on Black.

 

If you want Black on White you can get dyesub instead of double shot, it will be just as durable and you're more likely to find a set in your budget.

 

If you just want best and can accept a higher price I'd go for the Drop MT3 WoB or Bow (In fact I have both already) for $110

PXL_20211025_045802566.jpg

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21 minutes ago, geo3 said:

You won't be getting the best for under 70.

 

The search terms you should be using are BoW or WoB, which mean Black on White and White on Black.

 

If you want Black on White you can get dyesub instead of double shot, it will be just as durable and you're more likely to find a set in your budget.

 

If you just want best and can accept a higher price I'd go for the Drop MT3 WoB or Bow (In fact I have both already) for $110

PXL_20211025_045802566.jpg

ok its fine, i want doubleshot white and black, can you link them?

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2 hours ago, auckz said:

u know if they're doing the gmk black on white anytime soon? 

Sorry, I don't.  Search google for GMK WoB, you may find something. 

26 minutes ago, GloriousGamer321 said:

Yes it can. I would prefer something thicker for stabilizer wire ends though. 

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2 minutes ago, geo3 said:

Sorry, I don't.  Search google for GMK WoB, you may find something. 

Yes it can. I would prefer something thicker for stabilizer wire ends though. 

can you link lube that will  work for both stabs and switches because i don't want to buy 2 separate containers of lube

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19 minutes ago, GloriousGamer321 said:

can you link lube that will  work for both stabs and switches because i don't want to buy 2 separate containers of lube

Stab wire ends really are better with something much thicker than what you'd use in switches but you could use the thinner stuff on the stab wires. So you could use that stuff,  Krytox 2055G0 would probably be better but it's twice as expensive. 

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Just now, geo3 said:

Stab wire ends really are better with something much thicker than what you'd use in switches but you could use the thinner stuff on the stab wires. So you could use that stuff,  Krytox 2055G0 would probably be better but it's twice as expensive. 

so you think 5 grams is enough?

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Just now, geo3 said:

How many keyboards you doing?

1 keyboard,

oh and also i checked out your guide on lubing and i have a question, for lubing the springs don't you have to like get a bag put some lube in it, put all the springs and then shake it all until its all covered?

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