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is my 450 watt psu slowing down my 3060

P0rt4lf

i have recently got a 3060 and the performance isnt that diffrent from my 1650 with a 10 to 20 fps difference and i was wondering if my psu is causing this

 

cpu: intel core i5 9400

gpu: zotrac gaming 3060 oc

psu: evga 450 watt br

mobo: MAG B365M Mortar

ram: x2 8 gig corsair vengeance rgb 3200 x1 8 gig gammix d10

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I think it's a CPU bottleneck. A 9400 and 1650 is a very balanced system. This means your GPU won't run at full speed and it won't use much power.

 

If it would need more power it would likely end up shutting down the system. I would still get 650w or higher

 

For 1080p competitive games you would be CPU bottlenecked even with a 1650, but for more GPU heavy games you should expect like a 20% performance increase. For 1440p the difference would be even bigger

Edited by Pixelfie
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if i would get a better psu would I still get a performance boost

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1 minute ago, P0rt4lf said:

if i would get a better psu would I still get a performance boost

And no, but I would swap it anyway, it's not the best thing for a 3060 given its design

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6 minutes ago, Pixelfie said:

I think it's a CPU bottleneck. A 9400 and 1650 is a very balanced system. This means your GPU won't run at full speed and it won't use much power.

 

If it would need more power it would likely end up shutting down the system. I would still get 650w or higher

 

For 1080p competitive games you would be CPU bottlenecked even with a 1650, but for more GPU heavy games you should expect like a 20% performance increase. For 1440p the difference would be even bigger

I agree, to me it would seem like like your CPU is the bottle neck. Additionally it would probably be a good upgrade to get a power supply with a higher wattage. On a 3060 you probably don't need more than 650W, but I would consider a 450W a little too low for comfort, although some people may disagree.

 

I personally had a friend that ran dual 1080 Ti cards in SLI on a 450W and it worked... barely.

 

I would especially consider a better power supply if you are running a lot of memory, hard drives, or a AIO cooler / fan controller. A 550W 80+ Bronze unit is probably sufficient for your build.

 

I would also consider a better PSU if you did decide to upgrade your CUP/MB combo to something a little more power hungry; a B550 and a 5600x is a great option or a 3300X on a B450 is excellent if you are a little more budget conscience. With either option a 650W would be more than you need... just don't buy a Gigabyte PSU unless you want magic smoke.

 

Regardless of whether you decide to upgrade your PSU or not, it should not have an impact on performance.

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2 hours ago, P0rt4lf said:

i have recently got a 3060 and the performance isnt that diffrent from my 1650 with a 10 to 20 fps difference and i was wondering if my psu is causing this

 

No.  It is not.

 

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14 hours ago, YoungBlade said:

No

 

 

i would nto link that BS. if i remeber right he said that 80+gold is must have instead of nice to have. which is wrong

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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Just now, SavageNeo said:

i would nto link that BS. if i remeber right he said that 80+gold is must have instead of nice to have. which is wrong

Where in the video does he say that?

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Just now, YoungBlade said:

Where in the video does he say that?

somewhere. he also states other BS stuff in his psu videos. he got a lot of flame here in this forums and youtube because of his vidoes so mayby he edited them? i do not know.

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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Just now, SavageNeo said:

somewhere. he also states other BS stuff in his psu videos. he got a lot of flame here in this forums and youtube because of his vidoes so mayby he edited them? i do not know.

You realize you're risking defaming someone just because you can't be bothered to listen to what he actually said, instead preferring to potentially spread misinformation, which is ironically what you're accusing him of.

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21 minutes ago, YoungBlade said:

You realize you're risking defaming someone just because you can't be bothered to listen to what he actually said, instead preferring to potentially spread misinformation, which is ironically what you're accusing him of.

It is true that the video is not helpful. As @jonnyGURU(jon gerow) pointed out in the comment of the video,

Quote

1:45: Actually, 230V isn't harder to "step down" than 115V. You're supposed look at the CURRENT. And 230V is lower CURRENT because it's twice the VOLTAGE of the U.S. So, it's actually easier and cheaper to make a PSU that is "230V Only" (example: Cooler Master MWE 230V) because you can down size the primary components by as much as 50% since they only have to support 50% of the current. 8:47: All the fans are about the same size, Jay. You can't put bigger than a 140mm in a PSU housing.

 

8:58: That power connector is not proprietary. It's called a C20. It's made to handle upwards of 16A instead of just 10A which is what the C14 we see on lower wattage PSUs is rated at.

 

11:08: It's not actually a "bell curve", or typically isn't any more. You're example is, because it's an older platform using an older, cheaper topology, but newer, better PSUs tend to use switching technologies that "flatten" that curve. Typically the only "curve" you'll see is below 10% load. This is why you'll see that the newer 80 PLUS reports actually include a 10% efficiency requirement. And the newest Intel spec calls out a 2% efficiency that requires a PWM controller that goes into "burst mode" to achieve this higher efficiency at these lower loads.

 

11:13: The PSU is only getting marginally hotter by being run at higher load. Most of the heat it should be getting is from the components its powering and components like MOSFETs actually become more efficient as they get hotter. So what you'll actually see is a "bounce back" at the higher load. Google "MOSFET Parameter Shifts Near Maximum Operating Temperature" or something like that.

 

11:51: Actually, not all PSUs today have OCP. To have OCP, you need a 14-pin supervisor IC. To have multiple +12V rails, you would need an even bigger IC, an MCU or multiple supervisor ICs (example: Corsair HX). If the PSU only has a 10-pin supervisor IC (example: Gigabyte GP-P750GM) you DO NOT have OCP and have to rely on OPP, which is on the AC side of the PSU and is considerably slower to react than OCP.

 

15:52: No. They're not. There's a lot of OEMs out there, and more than half the time, the "brand" (Cooler Master, Corsair, beQuiet to name a few) have their own engineering teams, so even if they come from the same OEM, they're not going to equate to "the same power supply". Even if you start with a core platform, you can change the components on that platform to obtain or improve different features, or remove them completely to make the PSU cheaper. Sure, a smaller company like NZXT or Fractal will just walk up to Seasonic and say, "can you make this look like an NZXT or Fractal product", that's not usually the case.

 

Hope this helps and please remember you can always reach out to me if you have questions.

Unfortunately, most YouTubers seem to be giving the wrong information about PSUs. The same goes for YouTubers in the country I live in.

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5 minutes ago, IIIIIIIIII said:

It is true that the video is not helpful. As @jonnyGURU(jon gerow) pointed out in the comment of the video,

Unfortunately, most YouTubers seem to be giving the wrong information about PSUs. The same goes for YouTubers in the country I live in.

First, none of those is Jay saying "80+ gold is a must have."

 

Second, my biggest problem with this is that someone is making a claim about something someone else said and then refusing to do the most basic research to back up that claim.

 

Third, the reason I linked that particular video in this particular thread is obvious in the first 3 seconds. I never said it's a definite guide to power supplies.

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16 hours ago, P0rt4lf said:

i have recently got a 3060 and the performance isnt that diffrent from my 1650 with a 10 to 20 fps difference and i was wondering if my psu is causing this

ram: x2 8 gig corsair vengeance rgb 3200 x1 8 gig gammix d10

Three sticks of ram on that platform is generally a bad idea. Just run the two corsair sticks in dual channel.

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50 minutes ago, YoungBlade said:

Third, the reason I linked that particular video in this particular thread is obvious in the first 3 seconds. I never said it's a definite guide to power supplies.

Then, why are you bringing this video? Because people who are ignorant of PSU can think that everything is right even though most of the contents of the video are wrong. It would have been better if I explained it with a proper test rather than this video.

 

50 minutes ago, YoungBlade said:

First, none of those is Jay saying "80+ gold is a must have."

And JayZ says something similar around from 7:10.

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2 minutes ago, IIIIIIIIII said:

Then, why are you bringing this video? Because people who are ignorant of PSU can think that everything is right even though most of the contents of the video are wrong. It would have been nice if it had been explained in appropriate text.

Literally the first line of the video is "No, your power supply is not power limiting your graphics card." That is why I brought in that video.

4 minutes ago, IIIIIIIIII said:

And JayZ says something similar around 7:10.

Here is exactly what he says about 80+ Gold in that section: "So when it comes to it's efficiency - Gold, you're gonna find is kind of the baseline, the main standard. You can find Gold to be pretty affordable these days. That means you know it's made with much better components than in the past. In fact, finding Silver and Bronze these days is actually harder. In fact, finding Silver is probably the hardest! Most people tend to go right from Gold - uh, or... sorry - tend to go right from Bronze to Gold when it comes to their ratings, because Silver is so close to Gold, a lot of times they'll just step up the component level to get it up to Gold, and it doesn't really cost the manufacturer any more money."

 

How is that "80+ Gold is a must have?"

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47 minutes ago, YoungBlade said:

Literally the first line of the video is "No, your power supply is not power limiting your graphics card." That is why I brought in that video.

As I said in my previous post. Linking this video only for the sake of the first sentence of the video may mislead people into thinking that everything in this video is correct. Even though most of this footage is seriously wrong.

47 minutes ago, YoungBlade said:

So when it comes to it's efficiency -

It's my bad. I haven't heard this part.

 

 

 

I apologize for messing with the topic of this thread.

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mayby J2C edited it out. i clearly remeber him sayign that? hmm sorry if im incorrect

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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