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techswede

Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 100k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

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4 minutes ago, Bitter said:

If you don't keep up with oil changes you'll eat vacuum pumps and have no brakes. Otherwise I haven't seen engine issues but I don't see many at all.

why do they have vacuum pumps to begin with? what is wrong with a simple master cylinder + brake booster config? 


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32 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

why do they have vacuum pumps to begin with? what is wrong with a simple master cylinder + brake booster config? 

What's a turbo do?

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12 minutes ago, Bitter said:

What's a turbo do?

oh true.. pfft lol

 

that makes me wonder though.. when people say boost their miatas... how do they handle that? I never really see people talk about that


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I've talked to some people who've turbo'd otherwise NA engines and when I ask them about that 'oh yeah I can only get one or two brake applies till the engine is in vacuum' which doesn't sound that great. NA engines are even using vacuum pumps, you can get a standalone very durable GM pump in the junk yard or used on eBay for little to nothing these days and put it on the booster side of a check valve wired to a simple vacuum switch and ALWAYS have brakes under boost.

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Can I get a bit of help here lads? I have a '97 Ford Explorer Limited (5.0 v8, don't remember trans) with what we believe is a misfire on cylinder #7. We replaced the coil-packs (which were shot) then the misfire went away. However when it got could out, it came back, and with a vengeance. It has just under 200K on it and we're pretty sure the OG owner never replaced plugs, wires, and all that nonsense. With the really bad misfire, it has only gone maybe 500 or 600 miles and now sits. Do you think the misfire is simply plugs and wires? Or is there perhaps more to it than meets the eye? It normally burns one quart of oil between changes (3,000mi) however with the misfire it seems to burn a quart and a half. The rest of the fluids remain normal looking, smelling, levels, and pressures as well. Just thought I'd ask while I wait for my next paycheck, when I'll then take it have it looked at.

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20 minutes ago, TempestCatto said:

Can I get a bit of help here lads? I have a '97 Ford Explorer Limited (5.0 v8, don't remember trans) with what we believe is a misfire on cylinder #7. We replaced the coil-packs (which were shot) then the misfire went away. However when it got could out, it came back, and with a vengeance. It has just under 200K on it and we're pretty sure the OG owner never replaced plugs, wires, and all that nonsense. With the really bad misfire, it has only gone maybe 500 or 600 miles and now sits. Do you think the misfire is simply plugs and wires? Or is there perhaps more to it than meets the eye? It normally burns one quart of oil between changes (3,000mi) however with the misfire it seems to burn a quart and a half. The rest of the fluids remain normal looking, smelling, levels, and pressures as well. Just thought I'd ask while I wait for my next paycheck, when I'll then take it have it looked at.

That seems like quite a bit of lost oil to me, idk what's a normal amount for that engine though


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Just now, Bananasplit_00 said:

That seems like quite a bit of lost oil to me, idk what's a normal amount for that engine though

I think I said it, but it will typically burn one quart between changes (3,000mi) which is normal. It only starting burning an additional half quart with the misfire.

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2 hours ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

That seems like quite a bit of lost oil to me, idk what's a normal amount for that engine though

going off of most car manufacturers modern day statements, anything less than 1qt per 1000 miles is "acceptable"


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5 hours ago, Bitter said:

If you don't keep up with oil changes you'll eat vacuum pumps and have no brakes. Otherwise I haven't seen engine issues but I don't see many at all.

We sold one a few months ago and it keeps coming back for a weird braking noise.

 

I can't fucking figure it out because of the constant fake engine noise. I almost wonder if thats causing the noise. 


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4 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Fake engine noise? Wut?

Its bad. You can hear how low quality of a sample they are using for the noise. Sounds like a bad blower motor, changes a lot in tone when you let off / brake. 

 

As for the complaint, I think its a transmission noise from the differential. Theres a ton of slop in the side gears. Other than that, I am stumped. Was trying to see if its better or worse while turning but the fake engine noise is preventing that. 


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Are we talking about a Fusion or a Mustang? I've driven a couple Fusions, one is a good customer and his is the 'top o the line' AWD turbo 2.0 etc etc and I heard no fake engine noise, in fact the car was surprisingly quiet. The other turbo 2.0 Fusion in recently the other guy drove and made no mention of fake noises, I'll drive it next week after we put some tires on it. Oh man, I need to get pictures of the vacuum pump it ate, brutal! And we found some random end of a snapped bolt just laying under the valve cover down between the springs. LOL.

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5 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

oh true.. pfft lol

 

that makes me wonder though.. when people say boost their miatas... how do they handle that? I never really see people talk about that

Can't develop problems if it's not on the road long enough taps head


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50 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Are we talking about a Fusion or a Mustang? I've driven a couple Fusions, one is a good customer and his is the 'top o the line' AWD turbo 2.0 etc etc and I heard no fake engine noise, in fact the car was surprisingly quiet. The other turbo 2.0 Fusion in recently the other guy drove and made no mention of fake noises, I'll drive it next week after we put some tires on it. Oh man, I need to get pictures of the vacuum pump it ate, brutal! And we found some random end of a snapped bolt just laying under the valve cover down between the springs. LOL.

This was a 2.5. It was quite obvious. 


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8 hours ago, terrytek said:

would this be suitable as a 140 mile/day commuter car? https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/antioch-2014-ford-fusion-titanium-turbo/6820065870.html i mean for the year and trim, that's a good price, but any reliability issues with the 2.0 ecoboost?

That is a damn good price. Fusions have great ride quality, I'd have no problem buying it if it checks out. The 2.0T is a pretty good engine, makes good enough power to get up and still gets good fuel economy. It's slightly high on the mileage side, if you go off the 12-15k per year avg, but only by a couple thousand. With a 140 mile commute I'd imagine you put your fair share of miles on a car too lol.

6 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

oh true.. pfft lol

 

that makes me wonder though.. when people say boost their miatas... how do they handle that? I never really see people talk about that

They just deal with having no booster after a couple pumps. That doesn't matter as much in anything except drifting though, cause most people don't hit the gas and brake at the same time unless you're brake boosting lol.

5 hours ago, TempestCatto said:

Can I get a bit of help here lads? I have a '97 Ford Explorer Limited (5.0 v8, don't remember trans) with what we believe is a misfire on cylinder #7. We replaced the coil-packs (which were shot) then the misfire went away. However when it got could out, it came back, and with a vengeance. It has just under 200K on it and we're pretty sure the OG owner never replaced plugs, wires, and all that nonsense. With the really bad misfire, it has only gone maybe 500 or 600 miles and now sits. Do you think the misfire is simply plugs and wires? Or is there perhaps more to it than meets the eye? It normally burns one quart of oil between changes (3,000mi) however with the misfire it seems to burn a quart and a half. The rest of the fluids remain normal looking, smelling, levels, and pressures as well. Just thought I'd ask while I wait for my next paycheck, when I'll then take it have it looked at.

If plugs and wires were never changed, that would be good to do even if it's not the problem (which it very well might be if what you say is true). When you pull the plugs, check to see if any cylinder is having a problem (a quick google of "how to read a spark plug" will get you started). An easy way to check which cylinder is misfiring is to idle the engine and pull each wire individually (with all others plugged in). If the idle changes, that cylinder is firing. If it doesn't, that cylinder isn't firing. Just wear gloves, everything will be hot lol. One quart every 3k is more than I'd be comfortable with, but not unheard of. Are you sure you're burning it and not just leaking? Burning oil will cause a bluish colored exhaust (easiest to see under load, smells too). Any 5.0L still on the road is guaranteed to have some sort of leak. If you do have a misfire, you could be getting cylinder wash. That's where the unburnt fuel in a cylinder washes the oil off the wall of the cylinder. Usually it just fouls the oil and spark plug, and it will eventually kill the cylinder wall, but it's possible an incomplete combustion could contribute to the oil loss.

 

Worst comes to worst you can just unplug the cylinder with the misfire and unplug the injector and run on 7 cylinders 😂


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On 2/15/2019 at 1:06 PM, Purp_Juice said:

Ahh it's cool man I was busy myself anyway. 

 

You've basically traveled through all of the midlands - Lovely place isn't it 😂  Did you go on the A5 or M6/M54? 

 

How much were they if you don't mind me asking? I'd Just whack them on see what they look like, if you don't like them get them refurbished and then sell them you'll 100% make a profit on those my mate did the same when he tried BMW X5 wheels on his B8 A4. 

 

 

Yeah I kinda did a big loop haha, just like last year when I went from Essex, Manchester>Leeds>York... And back down again xD I just took the M1 then M6, there was a 50mph variable limit most of the way up, but I was in no hurry. The byproduct was I got record breaking mileage from a full tank haha

 

I don't mind at all, I snapped them up for £100. They're a set of four BBS RC041, in 5x120 bmw fitment obviously. The cleaned up a little, but I'd say they're still candidates for a full refurbishment. I intended to keep and refurbish them myself, as they're the factory wheel for my 328 sport, buuut they're not a staggered set; It would originally have had wider RC042's on the rear. 

 

So I'm moving them on, and putting any profit into the bodyshop fund. Feel free to check Facebook marketplace, ebay, and Gumtree... But don't be disappointed when you see they're marked up ;) 

 

At the same time, my dream wheels that I told myself I wasn't going to buy because they were too expensive... Have just been reduced in price. EUGH. 



 

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Infact, I found a picture one of the previous owners sent me. This is my car maybe about a decade and 3(?) owners ago, sporting it's original wheels, RC041's upfront, and wider RC042's on the rear.

 

21895210_10214374734311662_1160342465_o.jpg

 

And this is the car last summer, sporting different BBS, these are RS740/741 

 

DSC_2119-01.jpeg



 

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1 hour ago, Ross Siggers said:

Infact, I found a picture one of the previous owners sent me. This is my car maybe about a decade and 3(?) owners ago, sporting it's original wheels, RC041's upfront, and wider RC042's on the rear.

 

 

 

And this is the car last summer, sporting different BBS, these are RS740/741 

 

 

Why convert to amber indicators?


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@RevoltTrain honestly, I prefer them on a 90's car. Hell, even on some newer cars. My last E36 was silver, they popped even more

 

This was me putting extra shrouds into the headlights... Because remember kids, running HIDs on older cars without the correct precautions is irresponsible :P

 

DSC_0450_1.JPG



 

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⠀⣿⣿⡇⠀⢸⣿⣿⡇⠀⠀⠉⠉⠉⠉⠉⠉⠁

 

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1 hour ago, Ross Siggers said:

@RevoltTrain honestly, I prefer them on a 90's car. Hell, even on some newer cars. My last E36 was silver, they popped even more

 

This was me putting extra shrouds into the headlights... Because remember kids, running HIDs on older cars without the correct precautions is irresponsible :P

 

DSC_0450_1.JPG

I noticed you swapped tail lights as well. I couldn't personally stand the Amber on my car so I went for Euro spec indicators

 

 

16933606_10206668390106730_477245487_n (1).jpg

20170831_124430.jpg


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14 hours ago, Cereal5 said:

They just deal with having no booster after a couple pumps. That doesn't matter as much in anything except drifting though, cause most people don't hit the gas and brake at the same time unless you're brake boosting lol.

But then that literally goes back to my original argument of OEM’s not needing vacuum pumps.. 


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14 hours ago, Cereal5 said:

That is a damn good price. Fusions have great ride quality, I'd have no problem buying it if it checks out. The 2.0T is a pretty good engine, makes good enough power to get up and still gets good fuel economy. It's slightly high on the mileage side, if you go off the 12-15k per year avg, but only by a couple thousand. With a 140 mile commute I'd imagine you put your fair share of miles on a car too lol.

They just deal with having no booster after a couple pumps. That doesn't matter as much in anything except drifting though, cause most people don't hit the gas and brake at the same time unless you're brake boosting lol.

If plugs and wires were never changed, that would be good to do even if it's not the problem (which it very well might be if what you say is true). When you pull the plugs, check to see if any cylinder is having a problem (a quick google of "how to read a spark plug" will get you started). An easy way to check which cylinder is misfiring is to idle the engine and pull each wire individually (with all others plugged in). If the idle changes, that cylinder is firing. If it doesn't, that cylinder isn't firing. Just wear gloves, everything will be hot lol. One quart every 3k is more than I'd be comfortable with, but not unheard of. Are you sure you're burning it and not just leaking? Burning oil will cause a bluish colored exhaust (easiest to see under load, smells too). Any 5.0L still on the road is guaranteed to have some sort of leak. If you do have a misfire, you could be getting cylinder wash. That's where the unburnt fuel in a cylinder washes the oil off the wall of the cylinder. Usually it just fouls the oil and spark plug, and it will eventually kill the cylinder wall, but it's possible an incomplete combustion could contribute to the oil loss.

 

Worst comes to worst you can just unplug the cylinder with the misfire and unplug the injector and run on 7 cylinders 😂

i've looked at reviews on the fusion and it seems like people have issues with the 6 speed auto, from sucky acceleration to misshifting to even full on trans failure, but of course those are only a select few. and this isn't for me lol it's for my dad :P 


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On 2/13/2019 at 10:20 PM, Cereal5 said:

Yeah that's cause it burns at basically 6.5:1 instead of 9:1 like ethanol or 14:1 like gas.

Makes a hell of a lot of power though! And BATs below freezing :x 


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