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Do I have the right PSU cables for 4080 Super or do I need others?

Hey all!

I'm planning to get a ASUS ProArt GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER, but before I place the order I'd like to know if my PSU has the right cables etc.

I think I do have the right cables, but with a big purchase like this, I wanted to get a second opinion before I do so and potentially run into issues when installing it next week. (Upgrading from a 3060)

 

I have the following PSU: RM Series™ RM650 — 650 Watt 80 PLUS® Gold Certified Fully Modular PSU (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu/cp-9020194-na/rm-series-rm650-650-watt-80-plus-gold-certified-fully-modular-psu-cp-9020194-na)

 

I got this PC built for me initially a while back, but I'm assuming all the cables the PSU should have are there. Also heard about the melting stuff, do I gotta worry about anything like that?

 

Thanks in advance!

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@Ricodotsh I think a 650W PSU may be insufficent (even if you have enough cables), in terms of power capacity, for use with a 4080 Super. Using a 4080 Super with a 650W PSU means there is a chance that you'll trip the overcurrent protection on the PSU during heavy load causing the machine to suddenly turn off. You probably want a 750W or 850W PSU (depending on your other hardware).
 

What CPU, Motherboard, other components, ect. do you have? (need this to estimate power usage)

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

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Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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Technically, no. it only has standard 8-pin PCIe cables.

The 4080 super uses thew 12VHPWR power plug, and Your PSU dont have that. But the GPU comes with a 3x8-pin PCIE to 12VHPWR adapter.

So you should be fine in theory

If you want me to answer, please use the quote function or tag me. I dont get notified unless you do

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23 minutes ago, Ricodotsh said:

Hey all!

I'm planning to get a ASUS ProArt GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER, but before I place the order I'd like to know if my PSU has the right cables etc.

I think I do have the right cables, but with a big purchase like this, I wanted to get a second opinion before I do so and potentially run into issues when installing it next week. (Upgrading from a 3060)

 

I have the following PSU: RM Series™ RM650 — 650 Watt 80 PLUS® Gold Certified Fully Modular PSU (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu/cp-9020194-na/rm-series-rm650-650-watt-80-plus-gold-certified-fully-modular-psu-cp-9020194-na)

 

I got this PC built for me initially a while back, but I'm assuming all the cables the PSU should have are there. Also heard about the melting stuff, do I gotta worry about anything like that?

 

Thanks in advance!

Nah

You only have 1 pigtailed Pcie 8+8 cable, you need normally 2 to power a 4080 that needs 320W+spikes

I'm not sure the GPU will even work with that, but even then 650W is weakish for a 320W card, and it's an old PSU

Get something better 750W+ wit proper cables (at least 8 pin PCie on the PSU side)

 

 

image.png.3a35ab83ed56273fb2d02c335d850497.png

System : AMD R9 5900X / Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO/ 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance 3600CL18 ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Eisbaer 280mm AIO (with 2xArctic P14 fans) / 2TB Crucial T500  NVme + 2TB WD SN850 NVme + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD drives/ Corsair RM850x PSU/  Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / Logitech G915TKL keyboard (wireless) / Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

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16 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

Nah

You only have 1 pigtailed Pcie 8+8 cable

I dont know where you got that, but the picture in the link OP posted shows it comes with two pigtailed 6+2 pin PCIe cablesimage.png.903027be0a4ebf4b7380ecde9a8f18ef.png

If you want me to answer, please use the quote function or tag me. I dont get notified unless you do

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3 minutes ago, Tegneren said:

I dont know where you got that, but the picture in the link OP posted shows it comes with two pigtailed 6+2 pin PCIe cablesimage.png.903027be0a4ebf4b7380ecde9a8f18ef.png

Weird, my pic came from Corsair website, maybe it has changed...

With 2 cables it's  kinda ok but not sure the PSU will manage spikes

Anyway, if you have $1000 for  a GPU  you can spend $150 for a decent PSU 🙂

System : AMD R9 5900X / Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO/ 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance 3600CL18 ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Eisbaer 280mm AIO (with 2xArctic P14 fans) / 2TB Crucial T500  NVme + 2TB WD SN850 NVme + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD drives/ Corsair RM850x PSU/  Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / Logitech G915TKL keyboard (wireless) / Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

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1 hour ago, will0hlep said:

@Ricodotsh I think a 650W PSU may be insufficent (even if you have enough cables), in terms of power capacity, for use with a 4080 Super. Using a 4080 Super with a 650W PSU means there is a chance that you'll trip the overcurrent protection on the PSU during heavy load causing the machine to suddenly turn off. You probably want a 750W or 850W PSU (depending on your other hardware).
 

What CPU, Motherboard, other components, ect. do you have? (need this to estimate power usage)

Kinda confused now 😅 I asked before and got told by multiple people it'd be fine: 

 Full specs in that thread too. 

 

30 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

Weird, my pic came from Corsair website, maybe it has changed...

With 2 cables it's  kinda ok but not sure the PSU will manage spikes

Anyway, if you have $1000 for  a GPU  you can spend $150 for a decent PSU 🙂

It was a gift, but yea, I could spend $150. My initial plan was to use the 4080 Super on this PSU for a while until I also upgrade my MOBO, CPU & Case, so I don't have to redo PSU installation in current case and just do it all in 1 new case, once. But if it's what needs to happen, it needs to happen 🤷

 

 

On the Corsair website, it says "QTY: 3 | PCIe 8 pin (6+2) cable". Would have to double-check if correct first, I suppose?
 

 

As for heavy load: the GPU will be bottle necked by the rest of my hardware until I upgrade CPU, so I wonder if it'll even be able to get to such high loads?

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@Tegneren

@PDifolco

 

I always find it easier to just scroll down to the cable list 🙂

 

The PSU has enough PCIe 6+2 cables, but I'd still be concerned that a 650W PSU wouldn't be powerful to run a 4080 Super. I my opinion OP should get a 750 or 850W PSU (depending on their other hardware).

 

image.thumb.png.8eefefe4bd64be0a14117e4ce697eebd.png

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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2 minutes ago, Ricodotsh said:

Kinda confused now 😅 I asked before and got told by multiple people it'd be fine: 

Honestly its gonna be 50/50. Worst case it just shuts off and well you know whats rhe issue then already.

 

Whats your other hardware? If its an efficient cpu and such you could do it.

 

As for cables you're fine the card comes with a 3x8 pin adapter and you have 2 2x6+2 pin cables.

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4 minutes ago, jaslion said:

Honestly its gonna be 50/50. Worst case it just shuts off and well you know whats rhe issue then already.

 

Whats your other hardware? If its an efficient cpu and such you could do it.

 

As for cables you're fine the card comes with a 3x8 pin adapter and you have 2 2x6+2 pin cables.

MB: B450 Tomahawk MAX

CPU: Ryzen 7 3800X

RAM: 2x DDR4 16GB G. Skill 3600C16 (running at: 3266, as any higher causes my system to BSOD at random moments during gameplay)

Storage: Samsung 990 PRO + Heat sink 2TB (M.2 PCIe Gen 3 x 4) & a Samsung 980 1TB (in a PCIe Gen 3 x 4 NVMe adapter card (PCIe 3.0 x4 to M.2))

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3 minutes ago, Ricodotsh said:

Kinda confused now 😅 I asked before and got told by multiple people it'd be fine: 

My concern is that GPUs often experiance momentary spikes in power draw. This is apparently less of an issue on the newer 40 series cards than it was on 30 series cards but I still have concerns. Tbf, the PSU should protect your hardware if it turns out that 650W wasn't enough, so I guess you could just try the 650W and see how it goes. But I'd 750W now instead of having to make two seperate upgrades.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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6 minutes ago, Ricodotsh said:

MB: B450 Tomahawk MAX

CPU: Ryzen 7 3800X

RAM: 2x DDR4 16GB G. Skill 3600C16 (running at: 3266, as any higher causes my system to BSOD at random moments during gameplay)

Storage: Samsung 990 PRO + Heat sink 2TB (M.2 PCIe Gen 3 x 4) & a Samsung 980 1TB (in a PCIe Gen 3 x 4 NVMe adapter card (PCIe 3.0 x4 to M.2))

Should be doable. It'll let you know by turning off/chrasing your system if it doesnt work.

 

 

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5 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

My concern is that GPUs often experiance momentary spikes in power draw. This is apparently less of an issue on the newer 40 series cards than it was on 30 series cards but I still have concerns. Tbf, the PSU should protect your hardware if it turns out that 650W wasn't enough, so I guess you could just try the 650W and see how it goes. But I'd 750W now instead of having to make two seperate upgrades.

Hmm, fair enough.

I could potentially pick up a Seasonic Vertex GX-850 or a be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850W (both of them are priced the same, and only a few euros more than the 750W variants, so might as well go 850 for like 8 euros extra lol)

 

A slight concern is that I have no clue how much effort swapping a PSU is. Apart from upgrading the basics in this system (GPU, RAM, SSDs) I didn't do anything else. And I've been quite busy, so don't really have a day to put aside to get it figured out for a few weeks from now😅

 

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11 minutes ago, Ricodotsh said:

A slight concern is that I have no clue how much effort swapping a PSU is. Apart from upgrading the basics in this system (GPU, RAM, SSDs) I didn't do anything else. And I've been quite busy, so don't really have a day to put aside to get it figured out for a few weeks from now😅

Changing out the PSU is typically quite simple. You start by unplugging and removing all the power cables (24 pin, EPS CPU, PCIe, SATA, ect.) from the system. You may have to remove a case fan or two to unplug the CPU power cable. Then take out the four screws that hold the PSU in place and remove the PSU. You'll find these screws on the same side as the PSU's switch. Now reverse the process to install the new PSU.

It may get more complicated in a small form factor case.

 

IMPORTANT: Cables from one PSU are unlikely to be compatiable with another PSU. Never use PSU cables with any PSU other that isn't the one they came with, unless you have triple checked that the cables are compatiable.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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1 hour ago, PDifolco said:

Weird, my pic came from Corsair website, maybe it has changed...

With 2 cables it's  kinda ok but not sure the PSU will manage spikes

Anyway, if you have $1000 for  a GPU  you can spend $150 for a decent PSU 🙂

Corsair usually handle spikes fine, I ran a 3080 on an RM650x for a while and it never tripped.  When it comes to 4000 series they have less severe spikes than the 3000 did.

 

I'd personally buy the official Corsair Premium cable for that GPU though, it allows a much safer bend radius.

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1 minute ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

Corsair usually handle spikes fine, I ran a 3080 on an RM650x for a while and it never tripped.

That is very impressive.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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