PSU Tier List [OLD]

[Mr.Meerkat]

Just now, Comic_Sans_MS said:

Anyway, couldn't the extra heat from the card and that more power was travelling through the VRMs because of the OC could have been what killed the card? 

Well the extra heat meant max 65C on both cores and 70C on the VRMs so like the temps they experience where very high...

 

It was only +100mV and +50% power limits...

[Starelementpoke]

1 hour ago, Mr.Meerkat said:

Well the extra heat meant max 65C on both cores and 70C on the VRMs so like the temps they experience where very high...

 

It was only +100mV and +50% power limits...

RIP 290's. Aka, my dream card.

[Starelementpoke]

2 hours ago, Overkilled said:

@STRMfrmXMN shouldnt the 650 GS be in tier 1?  

Eh, the GS isn't amazing overall, which is what tier 1 is reserved for. It's a good PSU, just has a bit too much average and meh in a few places.

[Overkilled]

1 minute ago, Starelementpoke said:

Eh, the GS isn't amazing overall, which is what tier 1 is reserved for. It's a good PSU, just has a bit too much average and meh in a few places.

Isn't it on par with the 650 G2, its around the same price

[Starelementpoke]

7 minutes ago, Overkilled said:

Isn't it on par with the 650 G2, its around the same price

Price doesn't have anything to do with how we rate them. As for the on par, yes, but not the exact same. The G2 has a better 12V rail and stability, also slightly better soldering. There's nothing wrong with either, but the G2 hits closer to the center than the GS.

[Mr.Meerkat]

17 minutes ago, Overkilled said:

Isn't it on par with the 650 G2, its around the same price

 

10 minutes ago, Starelementpoke said:

Price doesn't have anything to do with how we rate them. As for the on par, yes, but not the exact same. The G2 has a better 12V rail and stability, also slightly better soldering. There's nothing wrong with either, but the G2 hits closer to the center than the GS.

In terms that's easier to understand, think of the GS as a high T2 PSU and the G2 as a low T1  (and yes the G2 is a low T1...)

[Starelementpoke]

3 minutes ago, Mr.Meerkat said:

 

In terms that's easier to understand, think of the GS as a high T2 PSU and the G2 as a low T1  (and yes the G2 is a low T1...)

That works.

[STRMfrmXMN]

4 hours ago, Overkilled said:

@STRMfrmXMN shouldnt the 650 GS be in tier 1?  

Not quite good enough to be tier 1. I love it (I own one) but it's not as good as the G2 and it belongs in tier 2.

 

3 hours ago, Festive said:

Is my current PSU necessary for my build? I bought it to replace my CX750m. I am keeping it but I was wondering if it was the right move to upgrade to this PSU (SuperNova G2 750.)

It's an excellent PSU.

 

3 hours ago, Comic_Sans_MS said:

The Coolermaster Masterwatt Maker 1200 is the most expensive PSU at the PC part store I buy stuff from, $80 more expensive than the Corsair AX1500i. 

 

I want the Master Watt maker because it looks really nice (I know it is a couple hundred dollars over priced and is not great when compared with the price, that does not matter, looking like a balla does) 

Thing is the Maker isn't even all that good of a PSU and costs so damn much.

[Energycore]

14 hours ago, Tim Serious said:

that is great then .... thanks 

 

9 hours ago, Overkilled said:

Isn't it on par with the 650 G2, its around the same price

Let me put it this way. You look at a grey unit, that clearly has no PFC or any heatsinks in its PCB, but it costs the same as the EVGA G2. Do you buy it? No you don't.

 

Or worse even, you see a 650W NEX-G from EVGA the same price as the EVGA G2. Do you take the NEX? Not in a million years.

[quan289]

On 10/7/2016 at 9:17 PM, Energycore said:

No use since I'vo already resolved the issue with that PSU, but hi quan!

Hi!

 

On 10/8/2016 at 6:45 AM, Comic_Sans_MS said:

Also does anyone have an opinion on the CWT GPK as seen in the Antec NEO ECO NE550M, some one is asking about it in this thread?

Corsair VS = CWT GPM = CWT GPK but with 100~240V AC input = Antec Eco NE550M

[Energycore]

1 minute ago, quan289 said:

Hi!

 

Corsair VS = CWT GPM = CWT GPK but with 100~240V AC input = Antec Eco NE550M

So CWT GPK + PFC

 

But still kind of bad?

[STRMfrmXMN]

14 minutes ago, Energycore said:

 

Let me put it this way. You look at a grey unit, that clearly has no PFC or any heatsinks in its PCB, but it costs the same as the EVGA G2. Do you buy it? No you don't.

 

Or worse even, you see a 650W NEX-G from EVGA the same price as the EVGA G2. Do you take the NEX? Not in a million years.

When I bought my GS the G2 wasn't so mass produced so the 550GS was cheaper than the 550W G2 when I bought it. Had it been available at the same price at the time I bought it the G2 would be what I'm using now.

[Energycore]

6 minutes ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

When I bought my GS the G2 wasn't so mass produced so the 550GS was cheaper than the 550W G2 when I bought it. Had it been available at the same price at the time I bought it the G2 would be what I'm using now.

Super Flower, How u so gud @ PSUs?

[comicsansms]

8 hours ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

Thing is the Maker isn't even all that good of a PSU and costs so damn much.

The Maker just looks nice. If I was making a really nice custom case or case mod, I'd pick it in a heart beat (assuming I get it for free from a sponsor)

If someone wanted a PSU for a real computer, no. It is a very stupid thing to buy, it is blowing money on overpriced junk. It doesn't even have RGB.

 

On another note:

Why is the EVGA B2 a tier 2 but the Superflower Golden Green a tier 3? I thought the B2 was a downgraded Golden Green.

[STRMfrmXMN]

16 minutes ago, Energycore said:

Super Flower, How u so gud @ PSUs?

Dunno man

 

2 minutes ago, Comic_Sans_MS said:

The Maker just looks nice. If I was making a really nice custom case or case mod, I'd pick it in a heart beat (assuming I get it for free from a sponsor)

If someone wanted a PSU for a real computer, no. It is a very stupid thing to buy, it is blowing money on overpriced junk. It doesn't even have RGB.

 

On another note:

Why is the EVGA B2 a tier 2 but the Superflower Golden Green a tier 3? I thought the B2 was a downgraded Golden Green.

Oops

[comicsansms]

3 minutes ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

Dunno man

 

Oops

The Rosewill Capstone should also move up to tier 2 since it is also a  Golden Green.

[Energycore]

38 minutes ago, Comic_Sans_MS said:

The Rosewill Capstone should also move up to tier 2 since it is also a  Golden Green.

Right.

 

The one that's different is the newer Capstone G, which is made by Enhance and nowhere near as good.

[Dive5885]

Can someone explain to me how multi-rail psu's work?

 

If it has 4-5 12v rails with 30amps each, what happens if you exceeded that one rail? 

 

Does it borrow more amps from another rail or am I just crazy?

[Energycore]

8 hours ago, Dive5885 said:

Can someone explain to me how multi-rail psu's work?

 

If it has 4-5 12v rails with 30amps each, what happens if you exceeded that one rail? 

 

Does it borrow more amps from another rail or am I just crazy?

Here's the gist: There are multiple circuits that are more or less separate, capable of providing 12V, and each is wired to a different cable in the PSU (so the CPU may receive power from a different 12V circuit than say, your storage drives). Each rail has its own chips that are rated for its own max current, so that's why each rail has a max current rating. But also the whole thing share a couple components in common, which can only handle so much current, so that's why the PSU also has a combined max rating.

 

On a multiple 12V rail PSU, it's useful to know what rail goes where, so that you can note the maximum current you can pull off those components.

 

While a bit more expensive, multi-rail designs have an advantage over single-rail: in the event of a surge, your fragile components will only take a hit that's as big as the max current limit on the rail they're connected, instead of taking a very lethal 70A or so, if your unit is 850W.

 

While I prefer multi-rail designs, it's not a feature important enough to make or break a choice, as voltage regulation, ripple suppression, and quality capacitors are first in line.

[Energycore]

8 hours ago, Dive5885 said:

what happens if you exceeded that one rail? 

To annwer this, if a single rail draws more current than it's rated to pass through, on any good PSU it will shut down to prevent component damage.

[Mr.Meerkat]

2 minutes ago, Energycore said:

While I prefer multi-rail designs

I'm someone who prefers a single rail PSU to be honest  

Your PC should be connected via a power surge protector anyway so...if you're not dumb (like me) then it should be fine  

 

This is just a question I just though of and may as well ask you and @STRMfrmXMN, 85C uber high quality caps or 105C mediocre caps?

[Energycore]

Just now, Mr.Meerkat said:

I'm someone who prefers a single rail PSU to be honest  

Your PC should be connected via a power surge protector anyway so...if you're not dumb (like me) then it should be fine  

 

This is just a question I just though of and may as well ask you and @STRMfrmXMN, 85C uber high quality caps or 105C mediocre caps?

To put it this way: A Capacitor rated for 50,000 hours at 85C is as good as a cap rated for 20,000 hours at 105C. (These are speculative numbers, but the notion is that temps around caps in your PSU are going to be more than 80C at full load and more if you don't cool it well).

 

Yes you should use a surge protector, but you have to do it right http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7011

[STRMfrmXMN]

8 hours ago, Dive5885 said:

Can someone explain to me how multi-rail psu's work?

 

If it has 4-5 12v rails with 30amps each, what happens if you exceeded that one rail? 

 

Does it borrow more amps from another rail or am I just crazy?

To quote @quan289       

Quote

 

"Single rail vs multi-rails PSUs refers to how the +12v is configured.

 

A single rail is a bit more "practical" as you can make full use of the total output of the +12v rail without needing to worry about having to accidentally trip off the Over Current Protection (OCP) in any sort of configuration. In theory you can output the entirety of the +12v capability on a single connector. On the other hand, a multi-rail say "no, you can't used the entirety of the 12v on single connector" and limits the amount of current passing through a set of cables via multiple of OCP points. Think of multirail units like the circuit box inside your house.

 

Some people preferred single rail, as they don't have to worry about accidentally setting the OCP off with a demanding system with a heavy overclock. While on a multi-rail unit, even if you have 1000w (~83A) on the +12v total, a poorly configured MR will not allow you to make full used of that 1000w. Let's say one the 12v is rated for 25A (300w) and it is monitor two PEGs connectors for your GPUs. The MSI GTX 780 Ti in this review will be able to power on that rail (the PCIe slot is also supplying to the card which is being supply from the +12v wire on the 24-pin that is from another +12v rail); however, some manufacturers didn't do this properly and have the CPU draw power from it as well, cause it to go over the OCP limits, and the PSU will shut off despite having capability to outputting more.

 

Of course, a quality modern day multi-rail PSU will be configured in such a way that no matter how you plugged in the cables, you should not set off the OCP aside from those are pushing their system to the limits with heavy overclocks under LN2 or such. If you so happen to set it off even under normal system, you can simply move the cables around to get around it.

 

The purpose of MR units are to add an extra layer of safety. If by some chance you actually pull the entirety of the 12v on a single connector on a high wattage single rail, something is going to be burn/melt/damage/etc, while a MR will limit that to a more safer range and hopefully prevent any major damage to occur. An example of this issues will be here (note the ending of that post, as it states if you happen to have a SR unit, you don't need to flip out and get a different unit)"

 

 

[Dive5885]

4 hours ago, Energycore said:

Here's the gist: There are multiple circuits that are more or less separate, capable of providing 12V, and each is wired to a different cable in the PSU (so the CPU may receive power from a different 12V circuit than say, your storage drives). Each rail has its own chips that are rated for its own max current, so that's why each rail has a max current rating. But also the whole thing share a couple components in common, which can only handle so much current, so that's why the PSU also has a combined max rating.

 

On a multiple 12V rail PSU, it's useful to know what rail goes where, so that you can note the maximum current you can pull off those components.

 

While a bit more expensive, multi-rail designs have an advantage over single-rail: in the event of a surge, your fragile components will only take a hit that's as big as the max current limit on the rail they're connected, instead of taking a very lethal 70A or so, if your unit is 850W.

 

While I prefer multi-rail designs, it's not a feature important enough to make or break a choice, as voltage regulation, ripple suppression, and quality capacitors are first in line.

Well I learned something new today!

 

Thanks for all the info.

 

So lets say I get this psu : http://www.lepatek.com/eng/product_content/1/1/66/#produkte

 

Would that 30a be enough to power a 390X or would it trigger the over protection?

[STRMfrmXMN]

3 hours ago, Dive5885 said:

Well I learned something new today!

 

Thanks for all the info.

 

So lets say I get this psu : http://www.lepatek.com/eng/product_content/1/1/66/#produkte

 

Would that 30a be enough to power a 390X or would it trigger the over protection?

quoting is broken as hell as is text entry so let's hope this works

 

30A would be enough, yes. 30A*12A = 360W so you should be fine with a 390 easily.