Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
AlexTheGreatish

Building the Ultimate CPU Cooler!

Recommended Posts

Posted · Original PosterOP

Our sub-zero chiller is pretty awesome for cooling CPUs... but pretty bad at being safe. Today that changes.

 

Learn more about welding (This Old Tony): https://youtu.be/Vfhz9anpaWE

Learn more about GFCI (ElectroBOOM): https://youtu.be/GlM6PE2kKVY

 

 

Buy Corsair RGB Fans

On Amazon (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/LiapfP

On Newegg: https://geni.us/SvSwP

Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Linus Media Group.

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

So this is a safety video?  That doesn't seem very LTT to me, but I'll watch it anyway.  


AMD Ryzen 3900X  |  Fractal Design S36 360 AIO w/3 Corsair SP120L and 3 Noctua NF-F12 3000 fans  |  Asus Crosshair VII WiFi X470  |  G.SKILL TridentZ 3600CL15 2x8GB @ 3800MHz 14-15-14-14-30  |  EVGA 1070 Ti SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black w/NZXT Kraken G12 Cooler  |  Samsung 970 EVO M.2 NVMe 500GB - Boot Drive  |  Samsung 850 EVO SSD 1TB - Game Drive  |  Seagate 1TB HDD - Media Drive  |  EVGA 650 G3 PSU | Thermaltake Core P3 Case 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I want to watch Linus weld and drop hot metal on his feet, not a weird 2 minute crash course on how welding works...

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

This all went so smoothly, up until the thing started leaking...

 

Though, the solution would have been simple, just redo it with some new pipes while one is at it. It isn't super hard to be fair.
Refrigeration units are actually fairly trivial in an off themselves. (It is two radiators, an expansion valve between the two, some pipes and a compressor. (and a temperature controller))

 

Though, the use of a vampire tap is frankly abhorrent.... Put in a tee fitting and a proper valve, and if one is paranoid, then plug the end with an end cap and some teflon tape....

Vampire taps are only useful when emptying a refrigeration unit, ie decommissioning it. Vampire taps leaks over time, and aren't a drop in universal T fitting....

Also, one could add a PID controller instead, as to make the set temperature a bit more adjustable/accurate.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
28 minutes ago, Nystemy said:

Vampire taps are only useful when emptying a refrigeration unit, ie decommissioning it. Vampire taps leaks over time, and aren't a drop in universal T fitting....

After fixing it we epoxied them shut to make sure no leaking was possible.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

Our sub-zero chiller is pretty awesome for cooling CPUs... but pretty bad at being safe. Today that changes.

 

~SNIP~

Wooo where to begin.

 

1st of , props for doing this in the 1st place. Glad to see some subzero chiller experimentation.

 

However, there are a lot of things I would have advised you done differently.

 

Obviously u cant predict ur going to spring a refrigerant leak, however once that happened u should have stopped and decided to go a step further with ur initial plans. That leak was an ideal time to change the unit over to something more suitable for liquid cooling.

 

Cant emphasize enough how much of a wasted opportunity i think this was. You should have cut out the Evaporator and replaced with a braised plate heat exchanger. That would have massively improved the thermal transfer efficiency from the refrigerant to the coolant. Also would have been the ideal time to cut out the old copper pipe runs and remade them to suite a clean efficient layout.

I will say however u done good making sure to use r22 to re-gas, im glad u didnt replace the unit with a crappy r134a variant or replace the gas with a lesser performing refrigerant.

R22 may be bad for the environment but its a far superior refrigerant to the now commonly used r134a crap.

 

The case. If ur intention was to learn some welding skills and make vids using those skills, then thats cool, however if not then u could have easily made this using wood and plastic/ acrylic which would have been cheaper and easier and could still end up with a quality looking finish.

 

Insulation !

You mention it but dont show it. You should have gone HAM with insulation, i mean WAY overkill with it. Not for condensation prevention, but cooling efficiency, u dont want to be wasting ANY cooling power to the surrounding air.

 

As for coolant. You should give Mayhems XT-1 a try, its rated down to -50c at the correct mix ratio.

 

So yea, not the best vid, but good to see none the less, very much looking forward to future vids using it.


CPU: Intel i7 3930k w/OC & EK Supremacy EVO Block | Motherboard: Asus P9x79 Pro  | RAM: G.Skill 4x4 1866 CL9 | PSU: Seasonic Platinum 1000w | VDU: Panasonic 42" Plasma |

GPU: Gigabyte 1080ti Gaming OC w/OC & Barrow Block | Sound: Asus Xonar D2X - Z5500 -FiiO X3K DAP/DAC - ATH-M50S | Case: Phantek Enthoo Primo White |

Storage: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD + Samsung 850 Evo 256GB SSD | Cooling: XSPC D5 Photon 270 Res & Pump | 2x XSPC AX240 White Rads | NexXxos Monsta 80x240 Rad P/P |

Link to post
Share on other sites

I like how Brian goes like yeah I have 20 pounds of dangerous r22 refrigerant


main HP prebuilt          win 7 old game               main laptop acer e5-15                    lenovo 11e chromebook 3rd gen (school) 

i5-3470                         intel i5 2400                                                                              intel celeron     

                          lenovo cih61m1m v1                   intel i3 7thgen                                     4gb ram

14GB ram             4GB ram                                     12GB ram                                        10gb ssd

500gb HDD           1tb HDD                                     1TB HDD                                          chrome os 

blu ray drive        dual dvd roms                              dvd rom

 win 10                   win 7                                          win 10

                           case themaltake lan box  

myanimelist

#Muricaparrotgang

Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

After fixing it we epoxied them shut to make sure no leaking was possible.

That is at least an improvement.

 

I have seen way too many vampire taps used as drop in T fittings out in the wild, usually on "dead"/decommissioned or non working refrigeration units...

Works fine for a few weeks, sometimes months. But long term it leaks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I feel like they would have been better off getting a new (or at least not 15+ year old) air conditioner.


Spoiler

-The light at the end of the tunnel is the headlamp of an oncoming train.

-Celibacy is not hereditary.

-If everything seems to be going well you obviously have no idea what's going on.

-Never argue with a fool, people might not know the difference.

-A shortcut is the longest distance between two points.

-Everyone has a scheme for getting rich that will not work.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey I recognize that carpet tape😁. When I worked with it I never used a heat gun to remove the aluminum, I used a putty knife and could just kind of feel when it was close to permanently deforming. I wasn't doing a lot of large pieces though. 

Finally a cool(or hot) welding video, though the explanation for what welding is seemed incomplete, for lack of a better word. Maybe doing it in a fast as possible would have been better, and I do like the TOT recommendation, but it just is awkward and seems very much like an afterthought.

When Colin(?) was welding the steel frame, the tungsten was giving off a lot of sparks, which could happen for a number of reasons. Most likely the tungsten was either contaminated from previous welds, or the wrong tungsten is being used. Also, if you guys plan on doing a lot with steel, I would invest in a mig welder if you don't already have one. It's less cumbersome than moving the whole tig setup around.

Last is a recommendation for the next tool(read: toy) for Alex; a cold saw. I like them much more than chop saws for cutting material as they are quieter, don't throw sparks, and can cut aluminum(most cutoff wheels are made of aluminum oxide and when cutting aluminum the aluminum actually sticks to the wheel, causing it to not cut as well). The downsides are they are more expensive, take up a little more space, and require coolant. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Back in the day there used to be an outfit that sold complete systems in cases that had these built in. The one BIG advantage these have over LN2 is that you can have it running 24/7 which makes them suitable for actual use and not just a Frankenstein test bench setup. The reason these outfits aren't around today though is because they were pushing sub-zero directly on the CPU, using Peltiers etc... and the insulation they used failed or had to be checked/replaced constantly. It was expensive, complicated to maintain and just unreliable.

 

Back in the day I used to have an unlimited supply of R404A as well :D But the way I did mine was as a water/water heat exchanger using separate dual coolant loops - keeping the water with careful fine tuning at just 3C above ambient in the CPU/GPU blocks. Not only did that avoid condensation but I also didn't need the neoprene insulation on the CPU socket/blocks. Everything "cold" was contained inside the chiller box.

 

You could do a similar thing by submerging the radiator of an AIO, except radiators like those are prone to corrosion and aren't meant to be dunked in water whatsoever.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can add some light material (like styrofoam) inside the coolant tank and reduce the volume. Just like reducing the volume of the toilet water tank.  That way, you don't have to pour so much liquid into it and might achieve getting cooling temp faster that way.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
5 hours ago, SolarNova said:

Obviously u cant predict ur going to spring a refrigerant leak, however once that happened u should have stopped and decided to go a step further with ur initial plans. That leak was an ideal time to change the unit over to something more suitable for liquid cooling.

 

The case. If ur intention was to learn some welding skills and make vids using those skills, then thats cool, however if not then u could have easily made this using wood and plastic/ acrylic which would have been cheaper and easier and could still end up with a quality looking finish.

-Completely re-engineering the AC unit was well outside the scope of this project, at the point it was fixed it was already way over it's time budget.

 

-The intention of the video was proving out this process for building a case. One that requires this process is in the works.... (well it should have been worked on now but looks like COVID is going to spoil some of those plans)

3 hours ago, Computernaut said:

I feel like they would have been better off getting a new (or at least not 15+ year old) air conditioner.

New AC units use more environmentally friendly refrigerants that are much less effective.

 

1 hour ago, PhireFase said:

Finally a cool(or hot) welding video, though the explanation for what welding is seemed incomplete, for lack of a better word.

When Colin(?) was welding the steel frame, the tungsten was giving off a lot of sparks, which could happen for a number of reasons. Most likely the tungsten was either contaminated from previous welds, or the wrong tungsten is being used. Also, if you guys plan on doing a lot with steel, I would invest in a mig welder if you don't already have one. It's less cumbersome than moving the whole tig setup around.

Last is a recommendation for the next tool(read: toy) for Alex; a cold saw. I like them much more than chop saws for cutting material as they are quieter, don't throw sparks, and can cut aluminum(most cutoff wheels are made of aluminum oxide and when cutting aluminum the aluminum actually sticks to the wheel, causing it to not cut as well). The downsides are they are more expensive, take up a little more space, and require coolant. 

-I'd have loved to go deeper, but might loose a fair bit of the audience.  I figure we have a fair few viewers that have no clue what welding is, and also loads that already know quite a bit.  Hard to split the difference without one getting really bored so that's why I just handed it over to TOT.

 

-Yeah the problem there was just that we were running out of shielding gas.

 

-I'd frigging love to have a cold saw (used to use one daily) but they're suuuppper expensive.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

-Completely re-engineering the AC unit was well outside the scope of this project, at the point it was fixed it was already way over it's time budget.

 

-The intention of the video was proving out this process for building a case. One that requires this process is in the works.... (well it should have been worked on now but looks like COVID is going to spoil some of those plans)

New AC units use more environmentally friendly refrigerants that are much less effective.

 

-I'd have loved to go deeper, but might loose a fair bit of the audience.  I figure we have a fair few viewers that have no clue what welding is, and also loads that already know quite a bit.  Hard to split the difference without one getting really bored so that's why I just handed it over to TOT.

 

-Yeah the problem there was just that we were running out of shielding gas.

 

-I'd frigging love to have a cold saw (used to use one daily) but they're suuuppper expensive.

If they do have extra footage that might be something for ShortCircuit? just a thought @AlexTheGreatish


My PCs:

VALENTINIAN : CPU: Ryzen 7 2700X || CPU COOLER : Corsair H115i Pro || MOBO : MSi B450 Tomahawk Max || GPU: ASUS GTX 1080 Ti Strix OC || RAM: 4x8GB Corsair Vengeance (3200) || SSDs: Samsung 970 Evo 250GB, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB x2 || PSU: EVGA G2 850W w/ Cablemod Black & White Cables || CASE: NZXT H510 White || Monitor: Acer Predator X34A, HP 27yh || KEYBOARD: Corsair K95 RGB Platinum (MX Brown) || Mouse: Logitech G502 Hero || Audio: HyperX Cloud Alpha, Logitech C920 || Case Fans : 2x Corsair ML140, 2x Corsair ML120 ||

DIOCLETIAN III (HTPC) : CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @3.8GhZ || CPU COOLER : Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition || MOBO : MSi X370 Gaming Pro Carbon || GPU: ASUS GTX 1080 Strix OC || RAM: 2x8GB G.SKILL Ripjaws V (3200) || SSDs: Crucial P1 500GB, Crucial MX500 1TB || HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB || PSU: Seasonic 650W w/ Black & Red Extensions || CASE: Phanteks P300 || Monitor: Samsung Q60 65" QLED || KEYBOARD: Logitech G613 || Mouse: Logitech G305 || Audio: Samsung Q60R Soundbar || Case Fans : 3x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 ||

JUSTINIAN - Dell XPS 15": CPU: Core i7-9750H || GPU: GTX 1650 || RAM: 2*8GB 2666MhZ DDR4 SODIMM || SSD: 1TB M.2 PCIe || CASE: 15.6" Laptop with dBrand skin || Monitor: 15" 1920 * 1080 IPS || KEYBOARD: Dell Keyboard || Mouse: Logitech G305 White || Audio: Sony IEMs

MAXIMINUS THRAX (Open-Loop Testbed) : CPU: Core i5-7400 || CPU COOLER : ThermalTake Open Loop Watercooling Kit || MOBO : Gigabyte Z270XP-SLI || GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1060 3GB Windforce OC || RAM: 2x8GB G.Skill Aegis (2666) || SSDs: Crucial MX500 500GB || PSU: Corsair CX650M || CASE: Fractal Design Define C TG || Monitor: Generic Dell 24" || KEYBOARD: Razer BlackWidow Chroma V2 Tournament Edition || Mouse: Logitech G603 || Audio: No || Case Fans : 2x ThermalTake Riing, 1x Fractal Case Fan ||

OTHER : Dell Latitude (i7-6600U, 16GB RAM, 500GB SSD) ||

MOBILE : Galaxy S9 (64GB + 64GB uSD) || Galaxy S7 (32GB)

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, sub68 said:

I like how Brian goes like yeah I have 20 pounds of dangerous r22 refrigerant

lol that like me and real ant killer. before  they banded it. due t people not reading the manual to use it. kid you not.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have questions on how the electrical part of this project was done:

  • I see no power socket mounted to the case, does this cooler just have a fixed power cord?
  • Which parts of it are powered with 120V and which ones with a lower voltage (like 12V or 24V)? How is the 120V part isolated and protected from water/moisture?
  • Is there any kind of leak detector capable of shutting off the power? There are some simple mechanisms used in household appliances that can be useful.
  • Is there any protection that shuts the thing down before the pump runs dry in case of a coolant leak?
  • Is the huge terminal block shown by Alex even rated for the type of wire gage used? Maybe the wires are too thin for it to secure them properly.
  • How do you protect wire connections from moisture/contact (heat shrink tubing?)
  • and finally: Has Brian had any comments or suggested/made changes on the electrical part?

edit: By the way, it was great that you mentioned GFCIs and ElectroBOOM's video on it. Safety is important.

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, dogwitch said:

lol that like me and real ant killer. before  they banded it. due t people not reading the manual to use it. kid you not.

well this is why I read the manual for everything I  use no matter what


main HP prebuilt          win 7 old game               main laptop acer e5-15                    lenovo 11e chromebook 3rd gen (school) 

i5-3470                         intel i5 2400                                                                              intel celeron     

                          lenovo cih61m1m v1                   intel i3 7thgen                                     4gb ram

14GB ram             4GB ram                                     12GB ram                                        10gb ssd

500gb HDD           1tb HDD                                     1TB HDD                                          chrome os 

blu ray drive        dual dvd roms                              dvd rom

 win 10                   win 7                                          win 10

                           case themaltake lan box  

myanimelist

#Muricaparrotgang

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
3 hours ago, greenhorn said:

~snip~

I have questions on how the electrical part of this project was done:

  • I see no power socket mounted to the case, does this cooler just have a fixed power cord?
    • Fixed power cord so that the GFCI plug can't be disconnected.
  • Which parts of it are powered with 120V and which ones with a lower voltage (like 12V or 24V)? How is the 120V part isolated and protected from water/moisture?
    • Its in a water resistant box that is above everything.  Technically possible to get it wet, but you'd really have to try.
  • Is there any kind of leak detector capable of shutting off the power? There are some simple mechanisms used in household appliances that can be useful.
    • No, would you be able to link me to one of these?
  • Is there any protection that shuts the thing down before the pump runs dry in case of a coolant leak?
    • No, but you'd need to leak ~4 gallons of water before the pump would run dry so I think you'd notice
  • Is the huge terminal block shown by Alex even rated for the type of wire gage used? Maybe the wires are too thin for it to secure them properly.
    • Yep.  For places where there was a mismatch I put higher gauge wire into the terminal and soldered it together.
  • How do you protect wire connections from moisture/contact (heat shrink tubing?)
    • Heat shrink on everything that isn't contained in the box
  • and finally: Has Brian had any comments or suggested/made changes on the electrical part?
    • Nope, he hasn't seen it since he fixed the AC
Link to post
Share on other sites
46 minutes ago, AlexTheGreatish said:
  • Is there any kind of leak detector capable of shutting off the power? There are some simple mechanisms used in household appliances that can be useful.
    • No, would you be able to link me to one of these?

Thanks for your detailed answers to my questions :)

The detectors I was refering to have some kind of reservoir on the bottom of the device that will fill up with water in case of failure. Inside of this reservoir, there is a flotation device (can be a piece of styrofoam for example). When pushed upwards by water, it will close a push-switch. In a dishwasher I was repairing a while ago, pushing that switch caused a magnetic valve at the water inlet to close. For the cooler, you could use a relay to shut off power to most of the parts and maybe to illuminate a warning LED if you want to.
I am not aware of any commercially available plug and play solutions, but it should be easy enough to build.

Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

 

New AC units use more environmentally friendly refrigerants that are much less effective.

 

 

 

Considering you already dumped the R22 once, that's probably a pretty killer feature for your team.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, sub68 said:

well this is why I read the manual for everything I  use no matter what

people that read the  manual are rare bunch.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, dogwitch said:

people that read the  manual are rare bunch.

so true people go like I anint have time for that but in reality it helps so much


main HP prebuilt          win 7 old game               main laptop acer e5-15                    lenovo 11e chromebook 3rd gen (school) 

i5-3470                         intel i5 2400                                                                              intel celeron     

                          lenovo cih61m1m v1                   intel i3 7thgen                                     4gb ram

14GB ram             4GB ram                                     12GB ram                                        10gb ssd

500gb HDD           1tb HDD                                     1TB HDD                                          chrome os 

blu ray drive        dual dvd roms                              dvd rom

 win 10                   win 7                                          win 10

                           case themaltake lan box  

myanimelist

#Muricaparrotgang

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, sub68 said:

so true people go like I anint have time for that but in reality it helps so much

that is true. now if the manual is wrong..... that a whole different story...

cough asus mobo that has to have wifi turn off to install windows...

but its asus after all......

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, dogwitch said:

that is true. now if the manual is wrong..... that a whole different story...

cough asus mobo that has to have wifi turn off to install windows...

but its asus after all......

yeah some times manuals are wrong but if you know how to do it that's a different story


main HP prebuilt          win 7 old game               main laptop acer e5-15                    lenovo 11e chromebook 3rd gen (school) 

i5-3470                         intel i5 2400                                                                              intel celeron     

                          lenovo cih61m1m v1                   intel i3 7thgen                                     4gb ram

14GB ram             4GB ram                                     12GB ram                                        10gb ssd

500gb HDD           1tb HDD                                     1TB HDD                                          chrome os 

blu ray drive        dual dvd roms                              dvd rom

 win 10                   win 7                                          win 10

                           case themaltake lan box  

myanimelist

#Muricaparrotgang

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, sub68 said:

yeah some times manuals are wrong but if you know how to do it that's a different story

yeah. was working with a 600 buck mobo from them.. and win would not install.

some how their is a bug with that said mobo(x399) that the wifi is turn on be default.... when it has no driver to be on in the first place

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×