aldoggy

USB wireless adapters don't perform as well as PCIe alternatives in my experience.
 
What are the makes/models of your adapters?
 
Do you know the make/model of the wireless router/AP/gateway? Can you access the administration panel to be able to see the wireless settings?
 
What is "good"? What is "bad"? You never gave numbers. Please post your speed tests so we can compare to what you're paying for.
 
Try running a wireless survey using WiFi Analyzer. Post the graphical output of the channel analysis for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz.

F

While the board itself is fine - as basically any of the Optiplex lines are, but they're office PC's first and foremost.
 
Additionally, these OEM boards are often non-standard in one way or another. I'm not sure if the installation layout is standard ATX (or more likely, mATX), but I do know that the Motherboard PSU Port is wired differently. You'll need an adapter or to splice cables.
 
As others have also stated, given that it's an office PC, there will be no overclocking features in the BIOS, and it may lack features on a consumer/gamer oriented motherboard that you take for granted.
 
Overall, if you're JUST swapping out a motherboard, I would keep looking and get something else.
 
What CPU do you have? Your best bet would be to jump on eBay or Craigslist/Kijiji or even post in the Buy/Sell subforum here with a WTB post (want to buy) looking for the chipset and socket that will be compatible with your CPU.

Ok and also I agree the meshify C is the best case
 

sounds like the seller is talking about clearing the cmos, which is a board thing.
either way that's not a thing for cpu cache.

so I guess ill go ahead and try to purchase it, maybe I can get a discount because of his "filled cache" lol

The CPU doesn't retain anything on itself - if there's anything wrong with the settings it's on the motherboard and you can clear those by pulling out the battery for a couple of minutes. I'm assuming that's what that person't referring to and if the motherboard is having issues keeping the time it probably means the battery needs to be replaced.

I'm honestly worried of what he's gonna do in those 5 minutes to that cpu

But the CPU cache cleans when you restart the PC

Some people refer to the tower as a CPU.
As far as the actual CPU's cache, that's volatile memory, so it'll wipe when the system is unpowered. You can't touch it anyways, it's fully controlled by the CPU.

You can get a 2070 for $400 now.
 
https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-2070-gv-n2070wf2-8gd-rev-3-0/p/N82E16814932226
 
I think you'll have a hard time getting it much cheaper new since there aren't a ton of RTX 2070 made any more. If you meant RTX 2070 Super, I'd imagine they'd drop a little in price around Computex in June if Nvidia launches Ampere gaming gpus then and if say the 3070 ends up a significant bump in performance over the 2070 Super for $500. Though at that point you'd have to consider if it's just better to buy a 3070 for $500 than a 2070 Super for say $420. Of course, no guarantee there even will be Ampere gaming gpus, maybe Ampere will only be an HPC architecture just like Volta was.

From what I have seen for the most part prices don't really go down anymore, at least not by a lot.  Usually when the new card comes out, the old cards drop maybe $50 and they just sit at that price until the inventory runs out. 

Top right pin is ID ... it's probably not connected to anything, it's there just to prevent you from inserting the connector the wrong way
The header has two rows, each row has the pins for a usb 3 connector. The top row is offset to the left by 1 pin  (or the bottom is offset to the right, whichever way you want to look at things)
absolutely worst case scenario, the usb 3 connector associated with the top row will stop working, or work only in usb 2.0 mode, but the bottom row is fine, so should work.
 

Uh..your solution was to chuck in on the ground?  Now you've got more than a connector problem.

I know of some motherboards where those pins are soldered right through the entire PCB. With careful heating and fine motor skills, you might be able to resolder and replace if you can see the traces on the other side of the board. If there are seemingly no correlating traces present, it's a lost cause.
 
You can get an idea of a header that goes through the PCB here. Take a look at the 5th picture and see if what you find on the other side of the board is similar.
 
You have another connector, I wouldn't sweat it.

AMD's mainstream platform has actually started becoming performance competitive in their single threaded performance with gaming workloads.
 
I do have to state though I'm not loyal to AMD or Intel. I like being a part of both.
 
You'll probably have to get into the specifics of what titles you like to play. Then people may be able to say which platform runs it marginally or noticeably better.

You could get a 6/6 9400f for $144, a 6/6 unlocked 9600k for $239, an 8/8 9700k for $339...OR
 
Sell both CPU and Mobo on craiglist. Say you get $200 as a conservative estimate.
 
Ryzen 5 3600 (6/12) $200
MSI B450 Tomahawk Max $115
Your out of pocket $115
 
Ryzen 7 3700x (8/16) $330
MSI B450 TOmahawk Max $115
Your out of pocket $245
 
Say you don't get $200. Say you only get $150. Then it's still only $165 or $295 out of pocket for these choices.
 
I have both platforms. In my experience, Intel systems are more stable and are less finnicky. But, AMD systems are just flat out better value right now.

Ryzen 3000 is also an option but they don't have a lot of micro X570 boards out and I personally wouldn't do Ryzen 3000 without an X570 board because of the benefits they have over X470 unless on a major budget.

Sell the Z370 board, the 2200g, and cheapo AM4 board then buy a Micro ATX Z390 board(depending on how much you get you might be able to sell the 8350k as well and get like a 9600k or an 8700k if you wanted plus the new board). Only do the 2600 if you plan on doing a lot of rendering and workstation type stuff while in college otherwise the 8350K is better for gaming.

Never pay that much for windows, you can get a copy of windows 10 pro for $5 on ebay. Also i would also look for a GTX 1070 or 980ti for $200 on ebay

I don't know why people still recommend the 1050 Ti, the RX570 is pretty much better in most, if not all, aspects than the 1050 Ti and is cheaper. Similar story of RX 580 vs GTX 1060 although the performance gap is less.
Budget? Peripherals included with budget? Do you have a monitor already?

This whole post is a mess.
Firstly, it's not going to be your internet service provider that's causing the delay. I'm going to bet that you're, either, using an old crappy HDMI cable or you're plugging your cables into the wrong port on the PC. You claim there was input delay on the Xbox as well so that means 1 of 3 things. 
#1 Your monitor is having an issue
#2 Your cables are crap
#3 The Xbox doesn't like the high refresh rate and the monitor is forcefully defaulting to 240hz instead of a lower refresh rate that the xbox is compatible with.

Right click on the desktop, select "display settings" scroll down until you see "advanced display settings" then click "display adapter properties for display" finally, click "monitor" and ensure that 240hz is running. If it is, bump it down to 144hz.

the worse ram is for a different build that I would eventually not need
I have learned a lot though and hope trump wont deport me

Couldn't agree more. Better to have 2 devices that are good at what they do. I mean a laptop with a mx150 would be fine if they want to do some very light gaming while still having ok battery life. 

They (low-end gaming laptops) usually sacrifice basically every other component in the pursuit of more power (battery life, screen quality, keyboard quality, trackpad quality, etc). If you already have a gaming PC get a nice non-gaming laptop so at least you have a good experience using it for what you bought it for.