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Falcon1986

Member
  • Content Count

    2,045
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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3 Followers

About Falcon1986

  • Title
    Veteran
  • Birthday September 18

Contact Methods

  • Twitter
    @falcon1986

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kingston
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Technology, computers, networking, gaming, food
  • Biography
    Was always interested in tech and computers. My first PC build was an AMD socket 939-based system! Yeah, that's old! But was also interested in science so spent a lot of time in school and now I'm a doctor in post-graduate studies to become an Anaesthesiologist/Intensivist. Still like keeping up-to-date with the tech world since ZDTV/TechTV existed.
  • Occupation
    Medical Doctor (AA, BSc, MBBS)

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 3600
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB
  • GPU
    eVGA nVidia GTX 1660 Ti
  • Case
    Thermaltake Core V1
  • Storage
    Sabrent 1TB NVME, Samsung EVO 860 1TB SSD, Seagate Firecuda 2TB HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA 650 GQ 80+ Gold 650W Modular
  • Display(s)
    Dell SE2717H
  • Cooling
    be quiet! Dark Rock Tf
  • Mouse
    Logitech G300s
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional (64-bit)
  • Laptop
    2020 Dell XPS 13
  • Phone
    Samsung Galaxy S21 5G

Recent Profile Visitors

1,290 profile views
  1. Which version of the MR3420? Are you running the latest official firmware from TP-Link? If you are, I'd advise you to reset the router to defaults from within the administration interface, re-upload the latest firmware (even if it's the same version) and then reset to defaults again once rebooted. What I think they mean is that it's based on old technology. It's from the WiFi 4 generation with only 100Mbps ports. The few reviews over at Newegg show that more people have problems with it than success. If TP-Link is telling you to buy something new as "the solution", t
  2. I doubt whether there will be a difference between the 2 since they're some of Asus' "high-end" wireless routers. But if you're still unsure, you have the ability to test with what you have and switch around if you find anything unusual. Since you seem to be converting to WiFi 6 (AX), maybe use the RT-AC5300 as the primary router (good that it has more RAM), while keeping the AX82U with XD4s as APs with ethernet uplinks to the RT-AC5300.
  3. @Ton-618 Is the laptop able to get and sustain a wireless connection by itself in the vicinity of the PS4? At what signal strength? At what speeds? Doesn't matter. Your limiting factor here is an old WiFi 4 router. Despite being able to reach a theoretical maximum of 450Mbps, the TL-WR940N can only achieve this with channel bonding and perfect conditions on 2.4GHz. 2.4GHz is already a heavily congested band for many. Might be worth running a wireless survey and posting the channel analysis for the 2.4GHz frequency in your area.
  4. Run the ethernet cable in PVC piping along the edge of the house, then along the driveway and up to the garage. You don't need to bury it that deep; just a few inches below your edging so that it looks neat. At the house end, plug the ethernet into a LAN port on your main router. At the garage end, plug it into an AP or wireless router converted to AP mode.
  5. @mystvean Yes, I agree with @Alvin853. Run speed tests while directly wired into the R7000 then the Deco unit directly connected to it. What wireless band are you using? What are the wireless settings on the Deco? Why are you using a R7000 as a wired router when you can just plug the Deco in as the primary router?
  6. Wow! I don't think my newly-installed U6-Lites go past 26dBm on high output for 5GHz. Can the antenna power output be adjusted for the AX3600?
  7. In such a house, a wireless mesh will struggle in the same way as a single wireless router or extender. But if you have the ability to run ethernet, that will significantly improve wireless performance. It doesn't really matter which one you set as the primary router. Either should function similarly as router/switch.
  8. Yeah, that's the quirk. If you could elevate the antennae at both ends, it is likely to perform better. The nice thing about airMax devices is that you can use the signal meters to help with positioning. Some setups even come with scopes that you can use at both ends for alignment.
  9. I was going to suggest one of the Chinese brands as well if the budget is this low. But I can't vouch for reliability, features, and general performance. Hopefully, there are other users on this forum with access to Asian markets who have used similar products and can give first-hand experience. If the space is relatively small with minimal obstruction, you can take a look at the Ubiquiti airCube-AC (not ISP version), a WiFi 5 router with the ability to run in AP/bridge mode. Features are not as extensive as the UniFi alternatives, but it does the basics quite well.
  10. There are a few, but they're quite expensive.
  11. Even with a few trees, 2.4GHz can still penetrate, but you might not get consistent speeds and latency. However, you can imagine what the performance will be with a solid object always in the signal path. And keep in mind, this house is not just concrete; it might be broadcasting its own WiFi network which will cause more signal interference. For PtP links to be optimum, you don't only need perfect line of sight. The Fresnel zone has to be clear of any obstructions or else your signal will suffer. You can improve your particular PtP link by elevating the antennae at bot
  12. @QuantumSingularity What is the exact model of the ISP device? How far is it from the TV? 35m? Are there any physical obstructions around the antennae? How high is it off the floor? If you were to draw an imaginary straight line from the ISP device to your TV, what objects/materials would the signal have to go through? What are your WiFi settings on the ISP device for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz antennae? If you run a speed test from a PC or mobile device where the TV is located, what speeds do you get? Run a wireless survey on a device next to the TV and post th
  13. As long as it has the A/E keys and is a similar form factor to the Intel 9560 (2230), it should be fine. I'm not sure if it requires a special external antenna for 6GHz, but from the images I see, it uses the same 2 connectors as adapters from previous generations.
  14. And your reason for needing such a device that isn't solved by an external hardware firewall/router or a software-based solution?
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