LJA

Hey I'm about to do a build very close to this, same board cooler and case. I was wondering what your issue with mounting was and what the modification is that you had to make. Also curious about how you got around the cooler blocking the top left motherboard screw, did you install the cooler after the motherboard?

Perhaps you're right - although I have OCed my 6800, I have left the fan curve stock. My 6800 (reference design) seems to stay cool and quiet despite a quite aggressive OC (2350-2450 Mhz clock, 2050 Mhz RAM and fast timings) so I haven't needed to change it. 

Any time.

This.

afaik it will be released to the regular consumer market but sadly i do not know when that will happen.

Sadly b550 does not support any current gen apu's currently (so athlon's and zen + and zen 1 apu's) though can support zen 2 apu's with a bios update, but currently those are only limited to OEM's for now.
Yep for now, though you will need a gpu as those do not have an i-gpu.

You could run a slim fan in front. I don't know how much a difference the 2nd fan makes.
The clips for the fans are for 120mm size fans

You could use these on it, they are 2000 RPM and quiet.... They move a lot of air and are 120mm.
 
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zxx2FT/noctua-nf-a12x25-pwm-601-cfm-120mm-fan-nf-a12x25-pwm

Just put that rear case fan on the cooler. Not optimal, but it will improve airflow as opposed to just running the cooler fan in the middle. At least it is worth a try for free.
 
Reversing airflow may not work if your current air intake has filters. 
 
Do you have actual cooling problems? Meaning does the CPU throttle? If not, leave it as is. 

here is a list of ideas for you
 
right angle usb 3.0 header (need to pay attention to the notch when getting one or the header adapter will face the wrong way.) might make enough room for you to fit your fan. \https://www.amazon.com/Female-Extension-Adapter-Motherboard-Mainboard/dp/B07FTB1PXX/ref=pd_lpo_147_t_0/141-7713781-3758404?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07FTB1PXX&pd_rd_r=53301a98-3672-41e6-9e97-24d3ea75be90&pd_rd_w=nmD9L&pd_rd_wg=iNFWA&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=TKM21BPN4Z6H88T54ZAW&psc=1&refRID=TKM21BPN4Z6H88T54ZAW https://www.amazon.com/Female-Extension-Adapter-Motherboard-Mainboard/dp/B07FKQ5CLF/ref=pd_lpo_147_t_1/141-7713781-3758404?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07FKQ5CLF&pd_rd_r=d65dc5a5-0d2e-4fe4-8f2d-6f63d671b1c3&pd_rd_w=pwmcR&pd_rd_wg=MSSyv&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=QH4PV50YY51W5A1KWPEG&psc=1&refRID=QH4PV50YY51W5A1KWPEG reverse air flow for the system. All the heat from the gpu is also going to saturate the cpu cooler.  Reversing the will allow both cpu and gpu to draw fresh air independently and allow the hot air from both out the front.  It would work as is with just flipping the fans, but it wouldn't be optimized. Things/and ideas to optimize reversed air flow config.
rad shroud/gasket to use between the rear fan and the cpu heatsink. this will keep the static pressure up and optimize air flow to and through the cpu heatsink. Also giving the cpu heatsink it own independent intake. probably would be even need worry about adding a fan where the usb 3.0 header. you could do the same for the gpu with the bottom intake. the psu will also help dump some of the hot air out of the system rather than taking away from the little fresh air going into the system. some resources for you
rad shrouds
https://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c429/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Radiator_Shrouds.html
 
 
 

Judging by manual (page 21), it's Phanteks D-RGB (fan header-like) and third-party D-RGB connector.

No, you can't use case's RGB controller (and thus the button) if you need to sync the RGB with motherboard.

Nope, still bad temps, I know I need better airflow, but seems that in some way both huge heatsinks interfere with each other, which  is odd (airflow or not airflow) because both are quite high end Gigabyte products that should work and be compatible with each other...the weekend i'll see what I can do, maybe installing everything again, try to find some way to add some fans, or well go back to the Asrock, but doesn't feel likely
 
BTW Newegg stoped selling to Argentina, the apocalypse is coming very soon hahaha, I guess they smelled the huge devaluation that will come after the Sunday Elections
 
NOTE!: the RAM ain't working in windows enviroment, it says that it is at 3200 in BIOS but actually not even Ryzen master show them at that speed...this is becoming frustrating

I'm using the latest BIOS I think: F6b

Nope, is a two modules kit, 32Gb each module. I think it would certainly reach 70° under gaming or working, it's strange  with those two huge heatsinks that it can't run cooler...BTW thanks man, I've made a bigger thread with more stuff related to this, because I need to make a decision pretty fast before the end of the week due to special cirumnstances in my country.

64gb kit im assuming is a 4x16 kit? for whatever reason, DOCP struggles with 4 dimms. you might have to manually tweak the settings from DOCP for a stable overclock. Sometimes its as simple as adding just a little bit of voltage
64c isn't bad for a chipset. they tend to run warm. I wouldn't be concerned unless it starts reaching 90s under load. Also for whatever reason, a lot of software puts ryzen at 10c hotter than it actually is. I remember for ryzen 1000 and ryzen 2000 that apps like msi afterburner would read 10c hotter than ryzen master
61 is definitely warm for idle, but i still wouldn't be too concerned. It'll start to throttle around 70c but it won't damage itself. 
 
Only advice i can really give is to try to add a fan that passes over the chipset, even if you have to force a slim fan somewhere unusual

The usb header is used for RGB control and to report information to iCue, if you don't care about that then it will operate perfectly fine without it installed.

It's on G.Skill's website. https://www.gskill.com/faq
They're the same height / dimensions. 
 

TridentZ Neo is 44mm tall and not 41mm but it seems to fit under the NH-C14S anyway. 
Example: https://forum.dazmode.com/forum/member-area/post-your-build-pictures/2578-sff-build-no-wc
 

The NH-D9L isn't as good but should still be sufficient as shown in their extensive cpu compatibility chart.
What ram are you using?
1mm isn't much and the heatpipes can easily bend a bit to raise the fins and increase the clearance. 
 
FYI, you can use the Edit button to add in more info instead more making multiple posts.

Oh haha! My bad.
 
i would install the latest stable bios myself. 

Asus and ASRock BIOSes are usually fine. Just use a flash drive and update it and you'll be good to go

Well, have you bought they parts yet? If so follow a buildguide to have a bit more insight in how to build a pc.
 
i can recommend bitwit’s one on YouTube - whatever you do don’t watch the verge one.
 
i mean it should all work out of the box, just some mobo’s act weird - if mobo has USB flashback you can always update to the latest version.
 
but before this, maybe just build it and see if it runs?

it's good enough. the 3900x realistically wont pull more than 200w down the CPU power connector, maybe 50w for your storage drives and fans, there's still 350w left for the GPU. If you're worried, just dont let the GPU run with raised power limits.

Even though the Intel Z170 chipset has plenty of lanes for m.2, pcie, and the lanes from the cpu can just go towards the gpus. The X99 cpu itself already has enough lanes to go around, so it doesn't matter if it's shared or not. Z170 chipset may be superior than X99 chipset, but the X99 itself is overall the superior platform.
On X99 you can run SLI at full x16/x16 and still have enough lanes for 2 Intel 750 SSD.*
*except when running on 5820K.