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narrdarr

Member
  • Content Count

    3,916
  • Joined

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3 Followers

About narrdarr

  • Title
    Penciled In

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    NarrDarr#7836
  • Steam
    NarrDarr
  • Origin
    nbsts

Profile Information

  • Location
    NV USA
  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    Restaurant Assistant Manager

System

  • CPU
    i5-6500 4.0ghz
    upgrade to r7 3700 stock
  • Motherboard
    asus z170 gaming pro
    upgrade to msi b450 gaming pro carbon ac
  • RAM
    corsair VENGEANCE LED 16GB (2 x 8GB)
    upgrade to t-force xcalibur rgb 16gb 3600mhz
  • GPU
    evga gtx 1080 ftw
  • Case
    nzxt 401
    change to fractal define meshify c tg
  • Storage
    Samsun SSD 850 EVO M.2
  • PSU
    thermal take smart 650w 80+
  • Display(s)
    dell S2416DG
  • Cooling
    silverstone ar01
    upgrade to deepcool captain ex 240 rgb
  • Keyboard
    corsair strafe rgb
  • Mouse
    logitech g502
  • Sound
    sennheiser game one
  • Operating System
    win 7
    updated to windows 10 1909

Recent Profile Visitors

3,002 profile views
  1. ?clean install of windows ? have you updated all drivers? chipset, ect
  2. so a fan controller is device that you can plug 1 or more fan into. then manually control those fan(s) from the controller itself. usually with dials/nobs. a fan splitter is an extension cable that allows for multiple fans to connect a motherboard fan header. all fans on the splitter will run at the same speed. a fan hub is similar to a splitter, but it can handle more fans. most motherboard headers dont have enough power to run more then a couple fans. this is where a fan hub comes in. it will work the same way,but have its own power. letting you connect many more fans. but once a
  3. either is fine. dont worry about. I'd just leave it on the CPU fan header. but If you want it on the aio pump header you can disable the warning. the difference is most aio pump are set to 100% speed by default. but the lqf2 has the fans and pump tied together so the speed changes for both. I leave it on the CPU fan header. this will allow the pump and fan speed to go up and down based on temps by default and have less tweaking to do.
  4. fan,rad,and hose position looks good. the pump wire simply get connected to a fan header on the motherboard
  5. in short vsync will just cap the max fps to match the max refresh rate of the monitor.
  6. many coolers use a plastic backplate. it's fine dont worry about it
  7. hot air does rises, but not in a controlled environment like a case; it goes where you tell it to go. personally in wouldn't put the top front fan in at all. as an intake it going to pull some of the hot air back in from the exhaust and as an exhaust it will suck cool air out before it gets used by the components. really the space is only used when you have a radiator there for liquid cooling
  8. it depends on what you are cooling and the rest of the airflow design.
  9. so switching monitors from a dell S2417DG to an Odyssey G7. The dell monitor needed a lot of tweaks in ODS, windows, and nvidia settings to get the picture quality decent. So... my question is what is the best way to reset color profiles for the new Odyssey G7?
  10. there are ways to make it work, but it's kinda a pain in the @$$ plus the led count might be off, so light syncing gets weird.
  11. your in spec, so technically your fine. but if you not happy with that then get a new cooler. gammax 400 v2 is cheaper than the evo/hyper 212 and will perform the same.
  12. yea you should start your own thread. your conditions are different, but anyways I'd take look at the macho coolers from thermalright or the ninja 5 from scythe. if you get the ninja 5 I would some different fans. it's not that the fans are bad, they are just a bad pairing with cooler. slap some artic p12s on there and call it a day.
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