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140 mm or 120 mm alternative Fans for the Noctua D15

Hi, who knows what fans can I use with the D15 instead of the original ones?. I'm having trouble to determine it, because of the odd form from the originals ones, should I go for 120 mm or 140 mm? or neither since I'll have the issue anyway?.

 

I was thinking of using one or a pair of 140 mm industrial ones. I know is overkill and adds more noise, but since is an ITX case, might come handly for some more extreme scenarios, long renders, video conversion, long gaming sessions, etc.  I'm not  that bothered by noise under intensive use. The issue that motivates the need to change the original (great fans) is the following:

 

Due to the position of my Front Panel USB3 Typer A connector, I just can't install the original fan there, it will go way over the limit of height from my Lian li TU 150. 

I've just received from lian Li a new front panel, great gesture, so disconnecting and not using the front USB3 isn't an option, more when I've tried to remove it, to see if I can root the cable differently in order to gain some space and it is stuck as hell, no way I'll break that hideous connector again.

 

I've attached a pic of what I'm talking about. Also I'm just guessing that a "normal" 120 mm or 140 mm will fit either, but it seems to me thatI'll have more space. What are your thoughts? thanks in advance!

 

 

IMG_20200817_144453.jpg

 

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Just now, Mateyyy said:

More than that, I want to know if it actually would solve my problem or I'll be facing the same issue with a new fan. Also the D15 fans are weird so I dunno if a regular 140 mm would fit with the cooler. Here is a new pic to make it more clear what the issue is:

 

 

IMG_20200817_154721[1].jpg

 

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12 minutes ago, LJA said:

More than that, I want to know if it actually would solve my problem or I'll be facing teh same issue witha  new fan. Also the D15 fans are weird so I dunno if a regular 140 mm would fit with the cooler. Here is a new pic to make it more clear what the issue is:

-snip-

Yeah, the NF-A15 that come with the NH-D15 are 140mm fans with 120mm holes, if I'm not mistaken.

 

I don't know whether a regular 140mm fan would solve your issue, but 120mm fans should also work with the D15. Alternatively, you could ditch the D15 in favour of an NH-U12A, or just run the D15 with a single fan in the middle.

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I use a 120mm to clear RAM on my D15. I just used a Noctua redux 120. The Arctic P12 fans are supposed to be good and are very cost effective.

 

You will get slightly better temps with some crazy high rpm fans, but not much. I don't see much difference between 60% and 100% fan speeds on the D15. Case ventilation will be more important.

 

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Just now, Mateyyy said:

Yeah, the NF-A15 that come with the NH-D15 are 140mm fans with 120mm holes, if I'm not mistaken.

 

I don't know whether a regular 140mm fan would solve your issue, but 120mm fans should also work with the D15. Alternatively, you could ditch the D15 in favour of an NH-U12A, or just run the D15 with a single fan in the middle.

Yeah I was thinking of 140 mm to not loose perfomance, but at the same time I don't know if they'll fit and if they do if it still ain't enough clearence. 

Replacing it with a U12A would not be justify in my case, I live in Argentina, everything here is extremely expensive and I've already paid a fortune for the D15. Plus it's a cooler that would be great in ATX too and even future CPUs, I've already havea little mosnter to tame with the 3900x, I preffer to have my back covered and beyond.

 

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Just now, Demonic Donut said:

I use a 120mm to clear RAM on my D15. I just used a Noctua redux 120. The Arctic P12 fans are supposed to be good and are very cost effective.

 

You will get slightly better temps with some crazy high rpm fans, but not much. I don't see much difference between 60% and 100% fan speeds on the D15. Case ventilation will be more important.

 

Yes I was told that, yet I guess an industrial one running like a jet at 3000 might get some extra cooling in the summer, thought like you've said, not that much. Can you upload a pic man? would be cool, thanks in advance. I was thinking of a regular form 140 mm to not loose any perfomance and also for the looks too, but seems like the original ones have their mounting gholes like a 120 mm so I dunno if 140 mm aren't compatible. 

 

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6 minutes ago, LJA said:

Yes I was told that, yet I guess an industrial one running like a jet at 3000 might get some extra cooling in the summer, thought like you've said, not that much. Can you upload a pic man? would be cool, thanks in advance. I was thinking of a regular form 140 mm to not loose any perfomance and also for the looks too, but seems like the original ones have their mounting gholes like a 120 mm so I dunno if 140 mm aren't compatible. 

A regular 140mm would work, but I don't think you'll get much more, if any, clearance from it. I have a regular 140 and 120 on mine.

 

I used to run my D15 with no fans on an i5 3570, but when I upgraded to a 3600 I added a NF A14, the second one wouldn't clear RAM and let the side panel close, so I put a 120 redux on. The fans buzz loudly if in pull, plus I have an exhaust behind the cooler anyway, so push was the way to go.

20200812_164118.jpg

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Just now, narrdarr said:

How far away is heatsink from the rear fan?

Give or take, 1 cm.

 

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Just now, Demonic Donut said:

A regular 140mm would work, but I don't think you'll get much more, if any, clearance from it. I have a regular 140 and 120 on mine.

 

I used to run my D15 with no fans on an i5 3570, but when I upgraded to a 3600 I added a NF A14, the second one wouldn't clear RAM and let the side panel close, so I put a 120 redux on. The fans buzz loudly if in pull, plus I have an exhaust behind the cooler anyway, so push was the way to go.

 

 Thanks man! 

 

"but I don't think you'll get much more, if any, clearance from it"... yeap that's what I'm afraid, that it won't be enough space anyway. 

 

"I used to run my D15 with no fans on an i5 3570" I'm posting right now with no fan installed a 3900x hahahaha.

 

I've just watched a pic of a lad that rooted the cables to the left side (if you watch the USB3 connector from the front panel) facing the bottom of the case.This allowed him to installed the FAN, yet I think that his mobo has the USB3 connector in a lower position than my Asrock. Plus if I have to take that connector out to root it that way, I might break it, is a pain in the arse and latch is facing the interior of the mobo. 

 

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1 hour ago, LJA said:

Give or take, 1 cm.

here is a list of ideas for you

 

All the heat from the gpu is also going to saturate the cpu cooler.  Reversing the will allow both cpu and gpu to draw fresh air independently and allow the hot air from both out the front.  It would work as is with just flipping the fans, but it wouldn't be optimized. Things/and ideas to optimize reversed air flow config.

  • rad shroud/gasket to use between the rear fan and the cpu heatsink. this will keep the static pressure up and optimize air flow to and through the cpu heatsink. Also giving the cpu heatsink it own independent intake. probably would be even need worry about adding a fan where the usb 3.0 header.
  • you could do the same for the gpu with the bottom intake.
  • the psu will also help dump some of the hot air out of the system rather than taking away from the little fresh air going into the system.

some resources for you

rad shrouds

https://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c429/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Radiator_Shrouds.html

 

 

 

reverse air flow tu150.png

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Just put that rear case fan on the cooler. Not optimal, but it will improve airflow as opposed to just running the cooler fan in the middle. At least it is worth a try for free.

 

Reversing airflow may not work if your current air intake has filters. 

 

Do you have actual cooling problems? Meaning does the CPU throttle? If not, leave it as is. 

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Just now, narrdarr said:

here is a list of ideas for you

 

All the heat from the gpu is also going to saturate the cpu cooler.  Reversing the will allow both cpu and gpu to draw fresh air independently and allow the hot air from both out the front.  It would work as is with just flipping the fans, but it wouldn't be optimized. Things/and ideas to optimize reversed air flow config.

  • rad shroud/gasket to use between the rear fan and the cpu heatsink. this will keep the static pressure up and optimize air flow to and through the cpu heatsink. Also giving the cpu heatsink it own independent intake. probably would be even need worry about adding a fan where the usb 3.0 header.
  • you could do the same for the gpu with the bottom intake.
  • the psu will also help dump some of the hot air out of the system rather than taking away from the little fresh air going into the system.

some resources for you

rad shrouds

https://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c429/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Radiator_Shrouds.html

 

 

 

reverse air flow tu150.png

Many thanxs for the info man!!....regarding the adapter, I won't try it. The USB3 internal cable connector just gets stuck, today I almost break it and the mobo too. No way I'll deal with that again at least till I sell the mobo or is absolutely necessary.

About the fan configuration, I'll use it like I'm having it now and when the summer arrives down here and gets too hot I'll try some of those ideas for sure!, thanks again!.

 

Yet I've solved the issue. I did like the lad I watched the pictures. I've rooted the USB3 cable in a way that I could bend it a bit while positioning it in the space were the fan has a circular shape. Still is a bit too tight and the fan a bit high, I might like to change them with "normal" 140 mm fans, but for now, I'm kind of settle.

 

PD: ...the pain continues, now I'm dealing with another issue that has nothing to do with this. For some reason after updating the BIOS yesterday I woke up with the PC not starting, like not receiving any sort of power. I dunno what is happening if it's the PSU all of a sudden or what. Just three hours ago I've got it working and while it is functioning, with the power on, there are no issues (I've been playing till now)  but I'm afraid tomorrow after being shut down for a couple of hours I'll face the same issue like yesterday in the morning when I woke up. I'm really clueless, I thought it was the BIOS, but I dunno right now what might be the cause. I've resintalled the prior BIOS yet after solving the fans issue that motivated this thread, I started to have teh same problem like in teh morning of the PC not giving any signal of receiving any sort of power. I've CMOS the borad, dissassembly and assembly everything, using a screwdriver to start it and after several attemps suddenly it received power and I've been testing it since some hours. Really bizarre.

 

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Just now, HerrKaLeu said:

Just put that rear case fan on the cooler. Not optimal, but it will improve airflow as opposed to just running the cooler fan in the middle. At least it is worth a try for free.

 

Reversing airflow may not work if your current air intake has filters. 

 

Do you have actual cooling problems? Meaning does the CPU throttle? If not, leave it as is. 

Yes I was planning to leave it that way with just the middle fan but I've managed to root the USB3 cable in a way that I made it fit. Nope it wasn't throttling, yet I want to have on paper the best config to be prepare to summer when it arrives down here, so with lots of effort I've managed to put both fans plus two slim Silverstone ones, one at the front and the other  in the rear.

 

The real issue now is the problem of power I've mentioned in the above post, I don't have any idea of what is happening.

 

Lian Li TU150x - ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming ITX/ax - Ryzen 9 3900x - Be Quiet Dark Pro 4 - Asrock RX6800 Ref. Design - Corsair Vengeance LPX 3600 CL18 32GB - Patriot Burst SATA 240GB - AORUS NVMe Gen4 2TB - PNY CS3030 NVMe Gen3 2TB - Corsair SF750 - Redragon Vishnu K596 - Logitech G604_Samsung UJ590 32" - Huion GT 221 Pro - Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 - Yamaha HS5

 

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On 8/17/2020 at 2:01 PM, LJA said:

Hi, who knows what fans can I use with the D15 instead of the original ones?. I'm having trouble to determine it, because of the odd form from the originals ones, should I go for 120 mm or 140 mm? or neither since I'll have the issue anyway?.

 

I was thinking of using one or a pair of 140 mm industrial ones. I know is overkill and adds more noise, but since is an ITX case, might come handly for some more extreme scenarios, long renders, video conversion, long gaming sessions, etc.  I'm not  that bothered by noise under intensive use. The issue that motivates the need to change the original (great fans) is the following:

 

Due to the position of my Front Panel USB3 Typer A connector, I just can't install the original fan there, it will go way over the limit of height from my Lian li TU 150. 

I've just received from lian Li a new front panel, great gesture, so disconnecting and not using the front USB3 isn't an option, more when I've tried to remove it, to see if I can root the cable differently in order to gain some space and it is stuck as hell, no way I'll break that hideous connector again.

 

I've attached a pic of what I'm talking about. Also I'm just guessing that a "normal" 120 mm or 140 mm will fit either, but it seems to me thatI'll have more space. What are your thoughts? thanks in advance!

 

 

IMG_20200817_144453.jpg

 

 

You could use these on it, they are 2000 RPM and quiet.... They move a lot of air and are 120mm.

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zxx2FT/noctua-nf-a12x25-pwm-601-cfm-120mm-fan-nf-a12x25-pwm

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You could run a slim fan in front. I don't know how much a difference the 2nd fan makes.

The clips for the fans are for 120mm size fans

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