EspinalAndres

I had the same issue you're currently having a while back where my CPU was working fine and then the next day it was stuck at 800MHz (0.8GHz). I didn't swap any components as I know it was working the day before and my bios was the latest during that time. I can't remember if it also read 800Mhz in the bios... Anyway I did a clean install of Windows and everything went back to normal. Should you also format and do a clean install, that's up to you, can use a spare drive and install windows on that so you won't destroy your current install.
 
Can also try what Unclewebb mentioned with your board about that LN2 switch. The alternative name for that would be either SLOW 1 or SLOW MODE.

@EspinalAndres
BD PROCHOT throttling is not caused by the power supply. It is not a Windows issue either. Your BIOS shows 0.8 GHz so the CPU is already throttling before Windows loads.
 
Don't let this problem drive you crazy. It can happen to a lot of different motherboards for a variety of reasons. Use the Task Scheduler to add ThrottleStop to your Windows startup sequence and you can forget about this throttling problem. 
 
Most monitoring software does not accurately report the CPU speed while in safe mode. Do not conclude anything based on that.

XTU does not report BD PROCHOT throttling correctly. Ignore XTU. 
 
@EspinalAndres
Some MSI motherboards have a LN2 switch on the motherboard. It might be a physical switch or just a place for a switch. Over time, this switch gets dusty or shorts out and fails. This then sends a constant thermal throttling signal to the CPU via the BD PROCHOT signal path. XTU reports this as thermal throttling but it is not. Your temperatures are fine.
 
Keep using ThrottleStop to disable the BD PROCHOT signal path or try blowing the dust off of your motherboard. If you can find a physical LN2 switch, cycle it on and off 101 times to knock the dust bunnies out of it. Search your manual for LN2.
 
Your CPU will still be able to thermal throttle whether BD PROCHOT is enabled or not. BD PROCHOT and PROCHOT (processor hot) are two different things. 

It is on my signature
i7 10700k @ 5.05 Ghz
Corsair H100i pro XT 240mm
MSI z490 tomahawk
16 Gb (2 x 8 GB) Patriot Viper Steel - 4000mhz - 16-16-16-34
MSI 1070TI titanium

Is because of looks and that I already have it
 
Exactly is for looks.

Rad should go at the top, you can't easily put it at the front given those are 160mm fans. Regardless, this is a super basic setup that you shouldn't be sweating over. 
 
Also +1 to ditching the AIO unless you know you want it entirely for looks. 

Just have the rad as intake and leave the back open. So much positive pressure then that there is no use for a back fan.
 
Any reason for an aio? A thermalright peerless assasin 120 matches or beats most and costs a fraction.
 
As for fans in the bottom. Yes entirely useless.

Usually in system info there should be a bit about what speed the ram is running at

I don't know if you can change it in the BIOS. How about you find out, you have the laptop after all. 
 
Go press F2 or F10 or DEL when you turn on the PC , or  from Windows follow the instructions here:  https://www.onmsft.com/how-to/enter-into-bios-in-windows-10-or-windows-11
 
Look for any option that would allow you to change the ram frequency.  
 
Or read the laptop manual, maybe it says something there.

Id check it in the bios here too.
 
Most likelt just windows misreporting as cpuz is saying its running at default 2133mhz speed of ddr4

Ram is configured to run at 1064 Mhz , and since it's DDR, you multiply that by 2  and you get 2128 MT/s  which is close enough to 2133 MT/s , a standard speed grade.
 
The stick itself is capable of working at 1600 Mhz or 2 x 1600 = 3200 MT/s   or other frequencies in between (check the SPD tab, there you will see all presets stored in the ram stick) 
m471A5244cb0-cwe code tells you it's a 3200 rated samsung stick, 1R x 16, 4 GB and you can double check it here : https://semiconductor.samsung.com/dram/module/sodimm/m471a5244cb0-cwe/
 
So the stick is capable of working up to 3200, but it's currently configured at 2133. It's possible that 2133 is just the default in BIOS and you could go in BIOS and enable XMP or select 3200 from a menu,  or you may be able to select something between 2133 and 3200 - 2400 should be possible for sure, 2666 most likely. 3000 and higher are not guaranteed on laptops. 
It also depends on chipset and processor used. Some Intel processors are artificially limited to maximum 2666, so even if you use better sticks, they will be capped at 2666. 
 
Your laptop seems to have 4 GB of memory soldered on the motherboard , and a slot available to upgrade to more memory. So I would guess there's 4 GB DDR4 soldered on the motherboard and you have an extra 4 GB in the only SO-DIMM available. 
In this case, the maximum frequency of your second stick will also be limited to the maximum capabilities of the ram soldered onto the motherboard. For example, if that RAM can only do 2133 , then your stick will also be capped at 2133. 
But 2133 is kinda low, the soldered memory should be at least 2400 or 2666 capable, so use AIDA64 or other more thorough software to determine what capabilities the onboard memory has.
 
The number of ram slots listed in CPU-Z is reported by the BIOS, and the BIOS may be reporting an extra slot that can never be used... could be for various reasons, like for example maybe they use the same bios for the version of motherboard with two SO-DIMM slots instead of one slot and 4 GB soldered to motherboard so they just didn't add code to hide that 2nd slot from showing up in programs. 
 

An upgrade to a 3700X or a 5800X might help.

Hey guys so i just finished my first oc on my new 10900k, and was wondering if my results is ok
 
5.2ghz all cores, at 1.36 volt.
ring ratio at 46.
LLC 6.
Vccio & Vccsa at 1.2 volt.
 
I've run realbench 2.56 for 2 hours, and my temp never goes over 85c

So did you get the H100i and if yes then what temps did you end up getting?

In my expirience you really can tell the difference in old games (single core games like warrock) or bad optimized games like PUBG, I can  tell the difference because it prevents stuttering and smoothens everything.
In well optimized games like battlefield 1 and V makes no difference only gives you some little extra fps.

The manual for your motherboard says it supports both SATA and NMVe, so I'm not sure what the problem is. 

1- How many years have your cpu worked with a good overclock?
CPU can last a long time, as long as you don't overdo the OC, keep the temps under control.
 
2- Are my voltages dangerous? Currently I'm getting up to 94C° on synthetics but only up to 60C° on games.
under 1.35 is relatively save, but running it at 94c is not a good idea for long term, keep it under 90.
 
3- Should I stay with this overclock or swap profiles while not playing?
swapping profile might be a good idea.

Under 1.3 is considered safe.
 
Well so far the ancient gaming system of my friend with a i7 920 at 4.2ghz for almost a decade is still working so if you keep things within reason it will be fine. 94c is very hot tho

its the best option. stay with 5800x he will serve you well. the 8 cores will secure future proof for 2 years+

See and there lies the second issue. No matter what I set the cpu will still pull ~1.35 at random. Ive tried to lock it at lower vcore and itll still do it. Part of me thinks im missing something on this board. 
 

Thanks for the screenshot! It gives me lots of good info to compare my system 😃 appreciate it!
Thanks @EspinalAndres!
Yes I know that just copying the settings for an overclock is a big no-no however it's nice to see what other people are getting just for comparison 😃
 
5.1Ghz @ 1.32v I'd say it's pretty good! 

I don't think so. My friend's CPU works and after some researching, I found out if I disable all cores except for 1, my PC boots up. It has to the the CPU

If you can go higher than R5 3600, go 5600x!

keep the ryzen.

Go 3070 for 1080 or 1440P.