McCloud

im pretty sure you can dial in proxy settings via window setting and validate it with a traceroute after
 
and most defiantly set a password otherwise i wouldn't see any other issues as you connect to it as vpn it would be behave like any other vpn service depending on where the datacenter you box is in.
 

Yeah, um... even a 5G network will eventually become sluggish if there are more than 5+ networks fighting for channel bandwidth in close proximity to each other. The solution here is to ask each of your neighbors to turn off their wireless, move to a different location, or...
... use an ethernet connection, because ethernet is best connection. Well, I mean, at least for home use. Fibre would be better but it's expensive for home use.
Mmmm donuts.

2,4 GHz will be crowded, especially in a densely populated area. Try switching to a different band.
 
Also on a side note: Connection speed doesn't necessarily improve the closer you get to a router, there is such a thing as too close to a router. Your wifi signal is usually doughnut-shaped

I am living in a flat with a lot of neighbors - and a lot of different hotspots. 
 
I am guessing this is the reason for poor wlan quality (speed). Very poor. I'm literally 1-2 meters away from the router (TL-WR941ND) and the speeds are much lower when compared to cable. 
 
I've worked as a network administrator but never saw a connection being this bad. 
 
Is there any way to improve this, apart from trying to optimize the channel? Unfortunately, it's only a 2,4GHz, and 11bgn mixed mode,  so I don't have too many options.

Made any software changes lately?
Ever run CrystalDiskMark? 
Stock CPU Clock I Take it?
 

This might just be that the audio components on your motherboard is picking up electrical interference from the rest of the components, it depends on your board as a lot of the recent more gaming/expensive ones have a shielded part of the board dedicated to audio parts. This is also why shielded dedicated audio cards used to be a thing in the past.

how long does it take from power on to the desktop?
don't know how you can fix the second issue, but for now just dont put it to sleep, after all a fresh startup is very fast

What he means is that the file is longer than it shows.

I used it personally a lot when friends have problems. Reason is that the recovery rate is good and in the demo the recovery amount was long time unlimited. 

Unreadable or random are just damaged so you can't recover them. I once encountered the same problem and you can't really do much about it.

You can, as has been suggested, just stick the cable back into place and secure it with tape. The black retainer usually provides some force to keep the cable in contact with the connector, so basically wedge the broken retainer back into place and either use tape or hot-glue while keeping the retainer in position. (Be careful if you use hot-glue - the heat could damage the cable if you get any glue on it.)
(If you've lost the retainer, use a piece of paper or thin plastic as a wedge.)
 
As far as replacing the keyboard goes, it depends upon whether the broken part is part of the keyboard or part of the mainboard. If it's on the mainboard end, replacing the entire laptop may be cheaper than getting it repaired. (But check around, you may be able to just get a replacement retainer.)

well it tells me the source of the danger is sso.anbtr.com and that that is a known distributor of malicious software. so there is probably a link that leads there on that site

That won't work. 3.5'' drive requires more power than you get from USB. You need to get external dock with own power supply.

5.25", 3.5" & 2.5" sata devices use the same power and the same data cable, so that will be fine.

I got this for 12 bucks on ebay... just to get familiar with dd-wrt.  
 
@Sevilla I got it already.. will do the testing today. I wouldn't expect that the network congestion can be such a problem (in terms of speed).

No one can insure that everything at 100% will work, unless you have someone with identical hardware, including revision of the hardware, and uses the exactly the same configuration inside the system, and uses the exact same software.
 
But Windows 10 has been robust and smooth upgrade for most people. It was iffy in the early days as manufacture were scrambling for making Win10 drivers (for some reason Intel GPUs STILL has issues, but much better than before, thanks to Microsoft sending a whole team at Intel to get their shit together to have something decent), but that is fixed for most hardware. Microsoft is about to release a Service Pack like update (they are no more Service Packs), which will change the build number of Windows, includes a massive amount  of bug fixes, polish, and also have new features. Should be released in a week or two. So you may want to hold for that, but it works nicely now, at least for the great majority of people.
 
The general rule of thumb for upgrading is:
 -> Before updating Windows, uninstall any security software including A/V, and VPN software, and restart the system
 -> Update all your drivers before upgrading (some, under a specific version, have been found to cause a problem in the upgrade process, those have been solved, so just to be sure, make sure you have the latest. Check for EVERYT driver of your system).
 -> Make sure your BIOS/UEFI is up-to-date.
 -> If you had a virus or malware or use a system tweak utility, consider doing clean install of Windows 10 instead. Virus/malware infections is only removed your anti-virus/anti-malware, it doesn't fix modified system files.
 
Beside that, you are  good to go.

Win10 is what win8 should have been.
The windows apps are all windowed just like any application. Not full screen always like it was on win8

You need to make US Language First on the list, then It'll change

It depends on how you're printing it but I would try to print with the least needed, then I would probably use it if I felt that it would be extra fragile.

http://www.eurid.eu/en/about-us/contact-us

thanks for the suggestions. 
I haven't noticed the missing capacitor before.
 
Ye, forgot to mention that... I did try to remove the battery / reset the BIOS. 
And the cooler was of course on, I was only checking the CPU and took the picture, so the lighting is sufficient. 
 
Will check the connectors.

Is the old and new wp the same version?

The UniFi AP's have a lot of options, but DHCP serving or Routing are not one of them. It has integrated antennas I think it's something like 2x2 MIMO, however don't quote me on this....
I am suggesting Mikrotik over the others because it very powerful and it offers quite a lot of features that other price matched routers don't. It can do very good QoS which you will need to do if you plan to provide any sort of connection and prevent certain clients from sucking up the bandwidth. Apart from QoS, RADIUS Server, DNS Server, DHCP, Proxy, VPN, Advanced Routing, Load Balancing, etc... A difference in $15 in my opinion is well worth it.

id replace the router and add new access points...commercial level

Replace the router and the AP. You're in a tricky position where you have two bottlenecks, and if you remove one you only fixed half of the issue.
 
The Ubiquiti UniFi Enterprise is a great choice, get two of them. 
As for the router, you could get something like the Mikrotik RB750G it will provide good performance, it's cheap, secure and it has every possible option for anything you could think of.